Exterior corner of Baiyunguan (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

On November 4, 2020, coinciding with a fine weather, I finally decided to walk into Baiyunguan. Therefore, I also personally experienced the profound Taoist culture here, which benefited a lot. The first thing that catches people's eyes when they arrive at Baiyun Temple is a long red light wall located in front of the temple.

Baiyun Temple Zhaobi (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Zhaobi, also known as Yingbi, faces the archway of Baiyunguan. The four characters "Ancient Changchun" are embedded on the shadow wall. They were written by Zhao Mengfu, a great calligrapher in the Yuan Dynasty. The characters are strong and powerful. The whole shadow wall is very spectacular and unforgettable. Not far away from the shadow wall is the cultural relic monument of Baiyunguan, a national key cultural relics protection unit, announced by the State Council of the People's Republic of China on June 25, 2001 and established by the Beijing City Cultural Relics Bureau in October 2001.

Baiyunguan Cultural Relics Monument (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Before coming, the reporter also briefly explored and learned that Beijing Baiyun Temple is the ancestral home of the Quanzhen Longmen Sect of Taoism and enjoys the reputation of "the first jungle of Quanzhen". It is now the seat of the China Taoist Association, China Taoist Academy and China Taoist Culture Research Institute. In the minds of the majority of Taoists, Baiyun Temple has a high status. Today, Baiyunguan is a major scenic spot in the capital Beijing. With its unique charm, it attracts pilgrims from all over the country and abroad. It is an important window for people to understand Chinese Taoist culture and traditional customs.

Baiyunguan archway (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Around the shadow wall, you will see the colorful white cloud view archway with carved beams and painted buildings. This archway was originally the Lingxingmen, a place for Taoist priests to observe the stars and observe the spirit. Later, the Lingxingmen evolved into an archway. This archway was built in the eighth year of Zhengtong of the Ming Dynasty (1443) and is a four-pillar, seven-story, Xieshan-style building. The inscription on the archway reads: The beautiful land of Dongtian, and the opposite side reads: Qionglin Langyuan. It means a fairyland on earth, a treasure place of feng shui.

Baiyunguan Mountain Gate (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Walking through the gate tower, you will see the gate of Baiyunguan under the shade of green trees. The gate gate is a three-ticket stone archway. Above the main entrance, a plaque named "Imperial Construction of Baiyunguan" hangs. This was given by Emperor Yingzong of the Ming Dynasty. This plaque is made of pig iron, and its meaning is that the Baiyun Temple is expected to be strong and lasting, like cast from iron.

The statue of a monkey at the mountain gate (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The three doorways symbolize the "Three Realms". Entering the mountain gate means jumping out of the "Three Realms" and entering the immortal cave. The stone wall of the mountain gate is carved with patterns such as flowing clouds, cranes, and flowers. The knife skills are rich and the shape is exquisite. A palm-sized stone monkey is hidden in the embossed on the east side of the gate in the middle. There is a legend in old Beijing: "There is no trace of the gods, only the stone monkey is left in the observation." This stone monkey became the embodiment of a god. Visitors to Baiyun Temple would touch it with their hands to ask for good luck. Over time, the stone monkey was touched until it was shiny, and even the entire stone monkey statue, I felt that it was not very clear.

The second stone monkey statue (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

In fact, there are three little stone monkeys in Baiyun Temple, hidden in different places. This is also a gain from the reporters who visited Baiyun Temple during this trip. But after searching in the temple, I only found the second monkey besides the monkey at the mountain gate. No wonder tourists say that if you don't look sincerely, it will be difficult to see them. Therefore, there is a saying that "the three monkeys do not meet each other" at Baiyun Temple.

Baiyun Guanhua Biao (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

I was really lucky that day, and just in time for several tourists who came here to pay their respects to hire a tour guide, so the reporters and his party also accompanied them. While paying their respects, they were also able to listen to the tour guide's vivid explanations along the way. On both sides of the gate of Baiyunguan are Huabiao. Huabiao was called "slandering wood" in ancient times. It is said that it was set up for the admonition of Yao and Shun. Later, it became the standard of palaces and imperial mausoleum, and the palaces and temples that were granted by the emperor's imperial edict could be set up with splendid tables. The White Cloud Temple is placed in front of the mountain gate to express the boundary with the secular world and at the same time serve as a solemn palace.

Baiyunguan Courtyard (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Walking into the gate is the spacious and clean courtyard of Baiyunguan, facing the Wofeng Bridge. This is a single-hole stone bridge running from north to south. It was built in the 45th year of Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty (1706), was later destroyed and rebuilt in 1988. There is no water under the Wofeng Bridge bridge. A bronze coin model hangs on both sides of the bridge hole, engraved with the words "Bell rings and blessings", and a small copper bell is inside the money eye. It is said that due to the strong wind and little rain in the north, there was originally a "Ganyu Bridge" outside the temple, so people built this "Wofeng Bridge" inside the temple. The two bridges symbolize smooth weather and rain.

Baiyunguan Wofeng Bridge (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

After passing the Wofeng Bridge is the Lingguan Hall, which is dedicated to the Taoist Dharma King Lingguan. The statue is carved from the Ming Dynasty and is about 1.2 meters high. It has a red face and a bearded beard. It is round angrily. The left hand makes a seal and the right hand holds a whip. It has a powerful image and a moderate proportion. It is exquisite in shape. On the left wall are portraits of Zhao Gongming and Ma Sheng, and on the right wall are portraits of Wen Qiong and Yue Fei. These are the four major guardians and marshals of Taoism.

The incense burner in front of Lingguan Hall (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Strolling through the White Cloud Temple, I feel that it is really too big. The entire palace building complex is divided into three roads: middle, east and west roads and backyard. It is large in scale and compact in layout.

Guanzhong Sightseeing Trail (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

After entering from Baiyunguan Middle Road, I passed through Zhaobi, Pailou, Huabiao, etc., and entered the mountain gate. I successively watched Wofeng Bridge, Lingguan Hall, Bell and Drum Tower, Sanguuan Hall, Financial Temple, Jade Emperor Hall, Salvation Hall, Qiuzu Hall and Three Qing Four Imperial Hall. Each building is located in the temple based on its own characteristics formed by its name, which is deeply unforgettable.

Baiyunguan Bell and Drum Tower (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

For example, the Jade Emperor Hall of Baiyunguan honors the Jade Emperor. The statue is carved from the Ming Dynasty and is about 1.8 meters high. It is dressed in a nine-chapter uniform and wears a crown of twelve rows of beads on its head. It holds a jade hat and sits on a dragon chair. There are many banners hanging in front of and on both sides of the shrine, embroidered with the character "Shou" in seal body of many colors. There are a total of 100, so they are called the "Hundred Longevity Banner". This banner was given by the Empress Dowager Cixi.

Jade Emperor Hall of Baiyun Temple (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The six bronze statues on the left and right sides of the statue of the Jade Emperor were all cast during the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty. They are the four celestial masters and the two attendant boys in front of the steps of the Jade Emperor. On the wall of the hall are the Nandou Star Lord, the Big Dipper Star Lord, the thirty-six Shuai, and the twenty-eight constellations. There are a total of eight exquisite silk paintings, all of which are masterpieces of the Ming and Qing Dynasties.

Qiuzu Hall at Baiyun Temple (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Qiu Zudian is dedicated to Qiu Chuji, the real man of Changchun, the ancestor of the Quanzhen Longmen Sect. There is a huge "gall bowl" placed in the center of the hall, carved from an ancient tree root. It was given by Emperor Yongzheng of the Qing Dynasty. It is said that when the Taoist priests in the temple have no way to live, you can carry this bowl to the palace for fundraising, and there will be alms in the palace. Qiu Chuji's remains were buried under this "gall bowl".

Baiyunguan Salvation Hall (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The Hall of Salvation honors the Taiyi God of Salvation. The Celestial Venerable rides on a nine-headed lion, holding the nectar bottle in his left hand and the sword in his right hand. According to the Tao Sutra: Taiyi Savior of Suffering is a god of great mercy and compassion who specially saves those who have unfortunately fallen into hell. Both Ku Hall and Yaowang Hall were originally "Master Hall", dedicated to the eighteen disciples who followed Qiu Chuji to the Great Snow Mountains in the Western Regions. After the statues were destroyed, there was no information on the statues of the eighteen masters, so they were changed to Ku Hall and Yaowang Hall respectively.

Baiyunguan Temple Sanguan (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The Three Official Hall honors the "Three Official Emperors" of heaven, earth and water. It is said that heaven officials bless, earth officials forgive sins, and water officials relieve disasters. In addition to the single-story building, there are also multi-story viewing halls in Baiyun Temple.

Sanqing Siyu Hall (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

For example, the Sanqing and Siyu Hall has a two-story attic. The upper layer is dedicated to the Sanqing and the lower layer is dedicated to the Siyu. The Sanqing statue was created during the Xuande period of the Ming Dynasty. It is more than 2 meters high. It has a peaceful and extraordinary look, bright colors, rich yet simple.

Walking into the ancestral hall (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The four emperors are the four emperors who assisted the Jade Emperor: the Emperor of Shanggong of Gouchen, the Emperor of Changsheng of the Antarctic, the Emperor of Ziwei of the Zhongtian North Pole and the Emperor of Houtu. The statues are all clay sculptures in the middle of the Qing Dynasty, with a height of about 1.5 meters. The gilded copper cauldron in the courtyard in front of the hall was forged during the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty. The censer has a rich shape, with exquisite Yunlong patterns carved around its body, and a total of 43 golden dragons.

Baiyunguan Monument Corridor (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

On the west road of Baiyun Temple, Shente, Ancestral Hall, Eight Immortals Hall, Lvzu Hall, Yuanjun Hall, Wenchang Hall, Yuanchen Hall, etc. The god is a bronze beast that looks like a horse, with a mule body, a donkey face, horse ears, and cow hooves. In fact, its name is called "special". It is said that it is a kind of divine beast with unique functions. Wherever people are uncomfortable, they can easily cure the disease by touching themselves first and then touching the same parts of it. The reporter and his party specially invited passers-by to take a precious photo in front of the Shentu.

Photo taken in front of Baiyun Temple

In addition, the Wenchang Hall in the middle of the West Road is also very distinctive. In particular, the tall copper statue outside the door is the "Kuixing", which is very eye-catching. It is the god who dominates the rise and fall of articles. Holding the Dou in your left hand means the word "Dou" in the middle of the word "Kui", and holding the pen in your right hand means the name of the pilot with the pen.

Baiyunguan Wenchang Hall (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

It is said that he first "points" in a bucket containing ink with a pen, and then "points" on the exam questions. If he "points" anyone, he will be awarded the gold medal. The first person to be selected is the winner, that is, the first place or the "top pick". This is called "the star point fight". This plot can often be watched when performing folk performances. He has a big belly, which means that he is knowledgeable and full of knowledge.

Luogong Tower (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Baiyunguan East Road has Luogong Tower, Sanxing Hall, Cihang Hall, Zhenwu Hall and Leizu Hall. The Luogong Tower is worth mentioning in a tower courtyard in the northeast corner. The Luogong Tower is octagonal in shape and has a three-brick structure. In front of the original tower, there are also four stone steles: the "Luogong Front Hall" and the "Baiyunguan Rebuilt Stele", the "Luo Daoxing Immortal Stele", the "Congee Market Stele", and the "Yunxi Abbot Merit Stele", which are dedicated to the statue of Luogong. Only the Luogong Tower is left.

Guannei wing (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Luo Gong was a native of Jiangxi Province. He came to Beijing during the Kangxi period and lived in Baiyunguan. He died in 1727 and was granted the title of "Tianxian Shouyi Immortal" by Emperor Yongzheng. Folk legend says that Zhenren Luo created tools and massage techniques for shaving heads and haircuts. After being introduced to the palace, he was praised by Emperor Yongzheng. In the old days, the barber industry respected Zhenren Luo as the ancestor.

Baiyunguan Back Garden (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The backyard of Baiyunguan is a quiet and elegant garden, named Yunji Garden, also known as "Little Penglai". The courtyard is centered on the Jietai and Yunji Mountain House, with scattered rockery, surrounded by corridors, Yunhua Fairy Hall, Youhe Pavilion, Miaoxiang Pavilion, and Fuwei Tower. The trees are shaded, fresh and quiet, making people forget to leave.

Garden Jie Tai (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Jietai is the mandala where the Taoist Quanzhen Sect teaches the "Three Altars and Great Commandments", and Yunji Mountain Room is the place where Quanzhen Taoist lawyers teach scriptures to their ordained disciples. In 1989 of the last century, Baiyunguan held the first Quanzhen Sect ordination ceremony since the founding of New China, which was unprecedented.

Sun Yat-sen's inscription (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

In addition, the landscapes in Baiyun Temple such as the Twelve Zodiac Animals Wall, the inscription corridor, the 24 filial piety stone murals, and Dr. Sun Yat-sen's ink treasure stone carvings are all remarkable and have high ornamental value. Among them, on the walls of the twelve zodiac animals, various animals are carved very carefully and lifelike. Each zodiac sign has its own auspicious features. There are also many animals who touch the zodiac sign and stone carving animals here.

12 Zodiac Stone Murals (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

In addition, Baiyunguan also relies on its resource advantages within the temple, is keen on serving the society, and actively participates in charity activities. The Baiyunguan Road Medical Center within the temple exempts patients from registration fees, the poor from treatment fees, and the extremely poor. Charity such as waiving all expenses has been praised by many parties.

Baiyun Guandao Medical Center (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Looking back at history, the predecessor of Baiyun Temple was the Tianchang Temple of the Tang Dynasty. According to Liu Jiuxiao's "A Brief Introduction to Rebuilding the Stele of Tianchang Temple" of the Tang Dynasty, it is recorded that Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty built this temple to worship Lao Tzu. It is one of the few temples in Beijing that have not been damaged.

Corner of the backyard of Baiyunguan (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

In the seventh year of Dading of the Jin Dynasty (1167), it was ordered to rebuild it, and Shizong of the Jin Dynasty gave it the name "Ten Directions Tianchang Temple". In the second year of Taihe, Tianchang Temple was unfortunately burned down by a fire. Later, it was rebuilt and renamed "Taiji Palace".

Guannei Corridor Room (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

At the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, Qiu Chuji had an audience with Genghis Khan from the Great Snow-capped Mountains in the Western Regions, returned to Yanjing eastward, and gave him residence in the Taiji Palace. In May of the 22nd year of Emperor Taizu of the Yuan Dynasty, Genghis Khan ordered the Taiji Palace to be changed to the "Changchun Temple". In the early Ming Dynasty, it was renamed Baiyun Temple. In the early Qing Dynasty, under the supervision of Abbot Wang Changyue, another large-scale renovation of Baiyun Temple was carried out, basically establishing the scale of Baiyun Temple today.

24 Xiaoshi murals (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

In the history of Baiyunguan, high-ranking people have emerged in large numbers, and those who made the greatest contributions were Qiu Chuji from the late Song and early Yuan Dynasties and Wang Changyue from the middle Qing Dynasty. Qiu Chuji was an important founder of the Quanzhen School of Taoism. His idea of integrating the three religions, his practice of saving the world and the people, and his contributions to promoting Chinese traditional culture and foreign cultural exchanges all had a significant impact on that time and future generations.

The abbot's room of Baiyunguan (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

In the reporter's opinion, given the huge scale of Baiyun Temple and the many landscapes such as the temples and the statues, stone carvings, murals, cultural relics and historic sites, it will not take a long time to see everything carefully and thoroughly. It will be difficult to do it. However, during the more than an hour's visit, the reporter's what he saw and heard made people deeply aware of the profound and profound Taoist culture here. Although two years have passed in the blink of an eye, the scene of wandering in the Baiyun Temple is still fresh in my memory and has endless aftershocks. (Photo: Feng Ganyong)