Day1: Hunan Province Museum-Detianshun rice-Lu Guang cafe-Wen Heyou-BAR FABLE Apartment
Day2: Yuelu Academy-Guiyuan Zen Temple-Xie Zilong Image Art Museum-Back to the Forest Project
I went to Changsha three times in a row, just for nothing else but to eat a few more bites of authentic Hunan cuisine. Although I went for the sake of eating, I couldn't eat one meal and the next. I had to give myself time outside of the meal. Have some fun, so I came up with this version of the "Uncle Changsha" strategy, which I kept for my own use and for everyone's reference.
When it comes to Changsha's play, there is not much to say. After all, as the Japanese invaders approached the entire old city in 1938, the authorities burned the entire city on November 12 in order to delay the Japanese invasion of the south and prevent the Japanese from taking away strategic resources. It burned for five days and five nights, leaving Changsha City in ruins. Nowadays, the old streets in the city are all modern and antique buildings. Although they are lively, they always feel less charming and a little messy. In my uncle's eyes, Changsha is a city with both rough and delicate souls. It looks extremely unfastidious on the outside, but it is particularly delicate on the inside.
While eating, I asked local people why Hunan people like to eat the wet spicy meat of chopped peppers rather than the oily spicy meat. He rolled his eyes at me and said, Hunan is so humid, why can the peppers be exposed to the sun? Indeed, Hunan has hot and humid summers and cold winters. Since pepper was introduced to China in the 16th century, Hunan people do have a feeling of regret meeting it too late. If you visit the Hunan Province History Museum, you will see an ingredient in the unearthed Han tomb, that is ginger soy sauce, which shows that spicy taste has entered Hunan people's recipes for a long time.
And my version of the Changsha Strategy will start at the Hunan Province History Museum, and I will take you all to eat, drink and play Changsha from frugal to extravagant, and let's go now!
The first day is reserved for the east bank of Xiangjiang River
Museum tours have been particularly popular in recent years. The best way to learn about local customs and customs is to start in museums. The main reason to go to the Hunan Province Museum is to see the Mawangdui Han Tomb, and the weight of the Mawangdui Han Tomb is that a tomb supports a province's museum.
The entire museum restores the original appearance of the ancient tomb, which will be of great interest from the beginning. It is divided into four units: shocking excavation, life and art, bamboo slips and silk collection, and the dream of eternal life. It displays unearthed lacquer ware, silk paintings, plain gauze clothes, astronomical achievements, daily utensils, coffins, etc. Most tourists come to see Xin Zui's true body, who has been uncorrupted for thousands of years.
Uncle's friend, Director Ma, expressed her feelings after visiting the exhibition: "Madam Xin Zhui really enjoys it. The embroidered clothes, paper-thin smocks, and the buried puppets are complete with song and dance servants, and a four-layer coffin burial structure. When those lacquerware is opened, it is said that you can still see food, especially the oil flowers floating in the lotus root rib soup, which is shocking! However, tombs in the Han Dynasty pursued recuperation without any gold, silver and jewelry, so all kinds of wooden crafts were unfortunately luxurious during life, but it was quite sad to be watched like this for thousands of years after death."
It should be noted that remember to log in to the official website, official APP, and WeChat in advance to make an appointment, and then enter with your ID card. Be sure to bring it! Body! Share! Certificate!
Address: No. 50 Dongfeng Road, Kaifu District, Changsha City
Per capita: Free for basic exhibition hall
To understand Changsha's food, it is better to start with a down-to-earth atmosphere. After seeing the underground cultural relics, it is best to have a down-to-earth meal. When it comes to local delicacies, there must be no way to avoid Gai rice. Perhaps many people will ask what is Gai rice? In fact, it's just rice.
In the world of Gaima rice, De Tianshun is like Hermes in Gaima rice. Since its founding, the Flying Restaurant has become a low-cost restaurant with an elegant environment. One dish is served with a bowl of rice, and then a cup of hot soup is ordered to make a meal. If you want to be more luxurious, add a stir-fried vegetarian dish, or if it is not enough, just two.
Changsha people say that Gaima rice is a bowl of rice that you will never get tired of eating in your life. To prepare this bowl of rice well, three elements are needed: rice with the right soft and soft, thick but not greasy juice, and dishes with a lot of flavor. A bowl of rice is covered with various vegan toppings and the color of peppers, which makes it seem that the appetite is boosted. A gluttonous friend said that the best way to enjoy this bowl of rice is to fully stir it and eat it, so that the rice is stained with black sauce and oil, with shiny oil, so that it tastes delicious.
In my uncle's eyes, Gaima rice is like a seemingly ordinary Changsha. It looks simple but not simple. It is a representative of the tastes of Hunan people and the characteristics of Hunan cuisine. Heavy oil, heavy color and heavy taste.
Address: Duzheng Street, Renmin West Road, Changsha City
Per capita: 50 yuan
In order to find this No. 1 coffee shop in Changsha, I still went a lot of circles. It was really hidden in the attic on the second floor of an uneasily discovered canteen. In fact, uncle is not interested in checking in coffee shops in Changsha. After all, too many Internet celebrity cafes nowadays are only glamorous on the outside. When it comes to coffee, he can only give a hehe comment.
Like many Internet celebrity coffees, the decoration of Lu Guang Coffee is white and pure. It is said that the overall design inspiration came from two partners. In their philosophy, this cafe is not only a cafe, but also a miniature exhibition space and bookstore. In the middle of the coffee shop, there is a "Moving Bookstore". Although all second-hand books are displayed here, each book was collected by the two shopkeepers from various bookstores and sold at the purchased price. Each book is marked with the place of purchase and the name of the bookstore.
Surprisingly, their coffee was really delicious, and the way the boss and guests communicated about coffee was very comfortable. They would patiently explain the strength, acidity, and characteristics of the coffee to the guests. While drinking, the boss will also come and ask you how you feel about the cup of coffee, and these small details are connected together to easily allow guests to feel the temperature beyond the temperature of the coffee.
Address: 2nd Floor, facade of No. 12, Northeast Corner of Labor Square, Huangxing South Road Pedestrian Commercial Street, Changsha City (near the north side of China Mobile Miaofeng Service Hall)
Per capita: 37 yuan
I got into the taxi and told the driver that I was going to Wenheyou for dinner, so Wenheyou became the topic of conversation between me and the driver. The driver said that he once had a meal with Wen Heyou's boss. During the meal, the boss expressed that he just wanted to be a restaurant with feelings. Unexpectedly, it became a symbol of the city and a hot topic on Weibo. Now it is called an Internet celebrity restaurant by diners.
So during this May Day holiday, a restaurant that posted 16,000 table numbers on Weibo on a single day. What kind of fairy restaurant is it? You will have a deep experience from the moment you walk into Wenheyou's restaurant in Hisense Plaza. The entire decoration has restored the old community environment where neighbors were still very lively in the 1970s and 1980s. Now it seems like a urban-rural fringe, but in this atmosphere, you can thoroughly enjoy a Hunan cuisine tour, fried restaurant, crayfish, big sausage, stinky tofu... In addition to its own brands, Super Wenheyou also includes Changsha restaurant celebrity stores such as Tea Yan Se, Zhengge Beef Kebabs, Ligongmiao Sugar Oil Baba, etc., which is really impossible to finish even after several visits.
The restaurant has become popular, and some people like it and others scoff at it, especially those authentic locals. In their eyes, there are so many delicious food in the streets and alleys here. Why do people queue up to eat Wenheyou? But from the perspective of a foreign tourist, Wenheyou's food is both emotional and high-quality, and it is the kind that will be popular with the public. And they position themselves as having Changsha's most local market culture and food culture, allowing you to feel the most humane Changsha.
You asked me if it was worth it, and I thought it was worth it, especially Uncle Crayfish who loved it, but what you need to do is spend a lot of time waiting...
Address: Hisense Plaza, No. 36 Xiangjiang Middle Road, Changsha City
Per capita: 125 yuan
It's better to go to "Bar·Fable Apartment" for a drink at night. From the outside, it looks like an exquisite Chinese medicine shop. Passers-by who are unaware of the situation will never have imagined that there is a hidden bar here. I can't imagine that some uncles and aunties have come here to bump into Nanqiang. I asked for medicine.
The idea of turning the bar into a traditional Chinese medicine shop originated from the decaying martial arts school that the owner saw walking on the streets of New Kowloon, Hong Kong. Later, the financial genius opened this Chinese-style bar in Changsha.
The two-square-meter medicine shop at the entrance of the bar is hung with a sign saying "Medicine cures the disease", while a sign saying "Save the dead and heal the wounded" is hung in front of the bar in the store. If you want to enter the bar, you still have to spend some thought, because the secret of opening the door is hidden in the pharmacy outside the door.
The front of the wine list is printed with "Good Wine Heals the Heart", and the back is "Wonderful Hand Rejuvenation". As recommended, I ordered a cocktail made with tequila-based wine "Rejuvenation". The taste was light and refreshing, and I drank it in a few or two bites. Then I ordered a cup of "Ke Ku Coke", which has extra-long ice cubes inside that allows you to enjoy slowly. Before the end, I came a glass of signature whisky "Yuji", which smells full of aroma and burns like alcohol in the mouth. It is a strong liquor that smells like alcohol. Sure enough, a 63.7-degree wine is not easy to mess with.
Address: No. 104 Jianxiang Road, Changsha City Per capita: 108 yuan
The next day is reserved for the west bank of Xiangjiang River
Most people who travel to Changsha will go to check in Yuelu Academy and Yuelu Mountain Scenic Area. If you ask me whether it is good or not, I will only tell you that this is a place where I regret going and I regret not going. Uncle has been to Yuelu Mountain in summer and autumn. Naturally, autumn is slightly better. The red leaves in late autumn are also the signature of the entire scenic area, attracting a large number of tourists. Even near evening, you can still see many people visiting the mountain one after another.
Changsha people don't think there's anything special about Yuelu Mountain. In their eyes, it's a place where they were born. The genes of Yuelu Mountain flow in their blood. I asked what Yuelu Mountain looks like in their eyes. They said lightly: That is the mountain in front of my house.
Address: No. 273, South Lushan Road, Yuelu District, Changsha City
Are there restaurants with Jiangnan garden texture in Changsha? Yes, it is the Guiyuan Zen Temple hidden in the rebuilt old house on campus. The owner of the park transported these old houses from Guizhou to Changsha for redevelopment. Even the stone road was taken back for redevelopment, creating a private courtyard that is now a unique restaurant in Changsha.
Uncle chose a private room in an old building for lunch, and asked the waiter to recommend several specialty dishes in the store. Personally, I felt that the taste was still commendable. The dishes looked exquisite but did not lose the style of Hunan cuisine. Although some people on the Internet gave some low reviews, for us who came to travel, the taste here was quite popular with our friends. Coupled with the good service and comfortable environment, it was also one of the highlights of the trip. However, it is normal for high-priced restaurants to be criticized for their value.
Because the restaurant's location is quite special, it seems relatively quiet on weekdays. The leisurely feeling of slow life is different from the hustle and bustle of the city, and people especially want to stop and sit. There is a restaurant and a teahouse in the entire courtyard, which are operated independently of each other. You can come here for lunch first and then go to the teahouse for tea after dinner.
Address: North Gate of Lugu Foreign Affairs Garden, Bajiawan Road, Changsha City
Per capita: 215 yuan
What is the favorite place for Changsha cultural and youth nowadays to check in? I think someone will recommend you Xie Zilong Image Art Museum. In order to leave a shadow in front of the gray walls of the art museum, young people from Changsha came in droves and picked up various shooting weapons in their hands to create, allowing the art museum to realize its additional value and significance, that is, not only exporting art, but also providing artistic re-creation.
Every weekend or holiday, this is a place where all kinds of trendy people gather. You can spend a perfect day here by watching exhibitions, taking photos, and having afternoon tea. Currently, exhibitions of video art works by several master photographers are on display. Tickets for all four exhibitions require 100 yuan. This kind of consumption is high in Changsha. However, for girls who just want to take pictures, they can choose to buy only two of the exhibitions, so that tickets will only be 50.
Address: No. 387, Section 1, Xiaoxiang South Road, Yuelu District, Changsha City
Per capita: 50-100 yuan
Taking this restaurant as the end of the article is to give travelers some new information, that is, there are a group of people in Changsha today who have open-minded ideas and use the local landscape characteristics to create a group of unique dining experiences, and the Back to the Forest Project is one of them.
This natural space transformed by local advertisers was presented to the public after more than a year. Although it is not easy to find the specific location of this store, navigation will often take you to the National Supercomputer Center of Hunan University, but the correct route is in a dilapidated alley across the wall from the university.
Like the name of the restaurant,"Back to the Forest Project", the entire courtyard is located halfway up the mountain, surrounded by a very simple community. Fortunately, the few big trees give the place a feeling of being hidden in the forest.
The entire building is entirely made of wood, and the interior walls are made of adobe walls with cement mixed with rice hulls, chaff and mud, which are harmoniously integrated with the colors of the logs. Each space is continuously connected, but within a seemingly integrated house, it is divided into independent spaces.
At the end of the wooden house is a path leading to the foothills. When the weather is good, you can get into the woods and feel the natural oxygen bar. The sound of birds, running water, and the sunshine that shines in, all of which will make people feel the beauty of nature.
Address: 200 meters up the left alley of the National Supercomputer Center
Per capita: 160 yuan (reservation must be made 24 hours in advance)
There is a paragraph about Changsha circulating on the Internet, saying,"Why can't the housing prices in Changsha go up? Because all the money was eaten." This may be a true portrayal of the people of Changsha. After all, the city was burned down. After the fire, there was nothing left in Changsha, except the Hunan flavor in the mouth that could not be lost. Therefore, it is a matter of course to love, know and enjoy eating.
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