Travel through ancient towns in China-Changsha·Jinggang
UP ChinaTravel
2024-08-02 23:55:44
0Times

This is my second time to visit Jinggang Ancient Town. The last time I visited was 5 years ago. Several colleagues from my former work unit came to Changsha from Hubei to visit me. Changsha is a famous historical and cultural city, and Jinggang Ancient Town is famous far and far. We had to go around, so we went together. Unfortunately, time was in a hurry, the fun was not over, and there were not many photos left. On the last day of this Mid-Autumn Festival holiday, I came to Jinggang, the only ancient town in Changsha.

Jinggang, formerly known as Lujiang River, is located at the mouth of the Wei River into the Xiangjiang River. It has many coastal beaches and overgrown reeds, hence its name. In the fourth year of Joan of Arc in the Tang Dynasty, civil strife occurred frequently. Emperor Gaozu Li Yuan sent General Li Jing south to suppress the rebellion. Li Jing stationed troops in Lujiang. The "Changsha County Annals" of Shunzhi of the Qing Dynasty records: "Li Jing of the Tang Dynasty stationed troops here. His military orders were strict and he did not commit a single offense. The people were grateful to him and called his water Jinggang, and he never forgot it with his will." From then on, Lujiang changed its name to Jinggang and it has been used to this day. At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, the shipping industry became increasingly developed. Jinggang, with its advantage as a natural port, became the north gate and safe haven for ships entering and leaving Changsha. Thousands of ships stayed here every day. Xiangyin, Yiyang, Ningxiang and local grain and local products were distributed here. Jinggang once became one of the four major rice markets in Hunan. At that time, Jinggang was crowded with merchants and the market was prosperous. There was a saying circulating in the market: "When ships arrive at Jinggang, they will not go along the peak", which shows its prosperity. Today, the ancient town still retains "8 streets, 4 alleys and 7 docks", more than 1,000 residential buildings, and the main street is more than 1,200 meters long. There are dozens of ancient shops, workshops, clubs, temples and commemorative sites. Among them, ancient buildings of the Ming and Qing Dynasties such as "Hongtaifang" and "Ningxiang Guild Hall" are all well preserved. There are also the well-known religious buildings such as the "Fuxing Tower","Guanyin Temple", and "Ziyun Palace". Thousands of people bowed in front of the court and tens of thousands of bright lights were lit at night. The incense was strong and the scene was spectacular.

Jinggang not only has a unique economic status in history, but also, due to its superior geographical location, is an important military town and a battleground for military strategists. The most famous battle was the Jinggang Water War between Zeng Guofan and the Hunan Army led by the Hunan Army and the Taiping Army. In late April of the Xianfeng year of the Qing Dynasty (AD 1854), Taiping Army generals Shi Xiangzhen (brother of King Shi Dakai) and Lin Shaozhang led the Taiping Army south from Yuezhou (Yueyang) to occupy Jinggang, and built a fortress here as a base for attacking Changsha. At the same time, Lin Shaozhang also divided his troops in Ningxiang and Xiangtan, forming a siege on Changsha. At that time, Zeng Guofan, the commander of the Hunan Army, who was the minister of Hunan's regiment, personally led his army to attack Jinggang in order to seize the strategic location of Jinggang and relieve Changsha City of being attacked from both sides. The two armies launched a bloody battle. The Taiping Army attacked fiercely, and the Hunan Army was completely defeated and completely annihilated in Hongjiazhou. Zeng Guofan, who was born as a civil servant, was the first time he led troops to fight. Thinking of his oath at the beginning, he was ashamed and his dignity was swept away. In anger and indignation, he threw himself into the water twice, but was rescued by his subordinates. Later, when the Hunan Army heard the news, they rushed to the rescue in time. Only then did they defeat the Taiping Army and force them to withdraw from Jinggang and retreat to Yuezhou. Later, Zeng Guofan, with his tenacious will not be afraid of failure, led the Hunan Army to crusade and fight, finally conquering Tianjing and sweeping the Taiping Army, winning the reputation of "no army without Hunan" in the world. It can be said that the Jinggang Water War was also an important turning point in Zeng Guofan's magnificent life.

Today's Jinggang is far less prosperous than in ancient times. On the surface, the decline of Jinggang ancient town began with the diversion of the Weishui River in 1957. In fact, the main reason is that increasingly convenient road transportation gradually replaced water transportation. The docks are no longer busy as carrying goods with sweat and rain, the streets are less lively, and the shops are less patronized, and the business is even more bleak. As a result, some people either moved to other places or went out to work, leaving behind some elderly people who were nostalgic for their homeland and some dilapidated old houses, which struggled to support the ancient town. In 2008, the local government launched the protection and development project of Jinggang Ancient Town, and the ancient water town regained its vitality. In September of the same year, Jinggang was awarded the title of "Famous Historical and Cultural Town in China". In December 2011, Jinggang was rated as a national 4A-level tourist attraction by the National Tourism Administration. Mr. Deng Jianhua, a Hunan writer, wrote in his "View of Wangcheng Culture: Qieliu Ancient Town Talking about Tomorrow": Standing on the long embankment and listening to the river waves beating the shore, my soul trembles with the ancient town that was once known as the "Little Hankou" behind me, and feel together. That river, that river, that temple, that ancient street, that Youdu, that crisp cries... In Wangcheng, Jinggang, the ancient town with the deepest cultural heritage, welcomes the dawn of the new century with its vicissitudes.

The main tourist attractions in the ancient town include Yangsi Temple, Hongtaifang, Bayuantang, the former site of the Hunan Provincial Party Committee, Celebrity Handwriting Hall, Genealogy Exhibition Hall, etc.

The delicacies of the ancient town mainly include various fish products, beans and sesame tea, stewed fragrant dried, fermented round seeds, handmade peanut candy, perilla bayberry ginger, pepper cakes, etc.

Transportation in the ancient town: Jinggang is about 30 kilometers away from Changsha's Urban area. I started from the north gate of Changsha's Yuhua District Botanical Garden, took Bus No. 602 to Shazitang, transferred to Metro Line 4 to the terminal point of Guanziling Station, and transferred to Bus No. W116 at Guanziling Lingnan. It took more than 20 minutes to reach Wangcheng Bus Station. After changing to Bus No. W104 here, I arrived at Jinggang Ancient Town in less than half an hour. There were indeed many buses, and it was also convenient and quick.

A tour map of Jinggang Ancient Town is taken from the scenic spot bulletin board.
The large archway with the words "Jinggang Ancient Town" is located on the small square at the entrance of the ancient town scenic spot.
There is a long stele corridor built on the left hand side after entering the gate of the scenic spot, displaying Jinggang poems from the past dynasties.
At around 9 o'clock in the morning, tourists gradually entered the scenic spot.
Entering this archway with the words "Fengya" is Fengya Square.
At the entrance of Jinggang's main street, there stands an archway with the words "Lujiang Painting Building" on it.
Jinggang is located on the edge of the Xiangjiang River. It is too particular about how to eat fish. Look at the sign: eat more fish, divide it clearly, and process it carefully.

The former site of the Hunan Provincial Committee of the Communist Party of China is a Republican style building and a temporary office established by the Hunan Provincial Committee in Jinggang. In 1927, the "Mar-Day Incident" occurred in Changsha. Most party organizations and workers 'and peasants' organizations were destroyed. More than 10,000 members of the Communist Party of China and the backbone of the workers 'and peasants' movement were massacred. The vigorous Revolution turned to a low tide. In November 1930, the Hunan Provincial Committee of the Communist Party of China moved to the Jinggang building after several transfers, which was a rice factory at that time. Those stationed at the office were Wang Shaokun, wife of Wang Shoudao, then member of the Hunan Provincial Party Committee, and her sister Wang Shaolan. The two men were publicly identified as female workers in Wangjianglou Shoe Factory. Wang Shoudao was one of the main losers of the Provincial Party Committee at that time. Later, the provincial party committee was exposed and had to be relocated again. During the transfer, Wang Shaokun and his sister were arrested for betrayal by traitors and finally died heroically in Shiziling, Changsha. In the center of the hall of the old site is a statue of Mao Zedong. It was a work by a professor at the Central Academy of Fine Arts in 1964. The prototype of the work is a young Mao Zedong while studying at Changsha First Normal University.

Some items from the early and Cultural Revolution periods are also preserved and displayed in the old site
"Hongtaifang" is located in Health Street, Jinggang Ancient Town. It is said to be the last brothel in Changsha. It witnesses the history of the Qing Dynasty and the physical and mental destruction of women in feudal society. It displays wax figures of some ancient famous prostitutes, with hundreds of different postures. The exhibition hall is filled with crimson colors, exuding a suffocating atmosphere, which makes people feel oppressive after watching it.
Bayuantang was once a guild hall with some photos of Laojing Port displayed in it.
The mottled old walls, narrow alleys, and closed doors hide many stories about the vicissitudes of the ancient town.
Dramas with different songs are performed on the stage every day
Some things that have faded away have become today's fashion again. The fair lady wearing cheongsam has an intrinsic connection with the atmosphere of the ancient town.
The craftsman is processing glass products and puts on a headset from time to time and shouts to sell his business.
Artists? Tourists?
When I saw the delicious snacks, I couldn't help but taste a few bites.
Old objects gradually become memories
The characters "Hunan Wangjianglou Shoe Factory" were written by Wang Shoudao personally. Wangjianglou Shoe Factory has a long history. The cloth shoes produced by it have beautiful appearance and moderate tightness. They are sold nationwide and exported overseas.
Small bridges and flowing water are also one of the beautiful scenery of Jinggang Ancient Town
Jinggang Shadow Play Art Museum is located on Health Street. It mainly introduces the historical origin and development status of Wangcheng shadow play. There are multiple exhibition halls inside, and the exhibition hall displays more than 2000 shadow puppets of the Qing Dynasty, the Republic of China and modern times. There is a shadow puppet performance hall on the second floor, where shadow puppets with different songs are performed regularly every day, with many spectators.
Shadow play is an ancient traditional Chinese folk art with a long history. Shadow play began in the Western Han Dynasty, flourished in the Tang Dynasty, flourished in the Qing Dynasty, and was introduced to West Asia and Europe during the Yuan Dynasty. In 2011, Chinese shadow play art was selected into the catalog of representative works of human intangible cultural heritage. Shadow play has spread across a wide area in China, and has formed an unused genre over a long period of evolution. Common ones include Sichuan shadow puppets, Hubei shadow puppets, Hunan shadow puppets, Tangshan shadow puppets, Shandong shadow puppets, Shanxi shadow puppets, etc. Hunan shadow play has also formed its own unique artistic style and local color in the long-term development process. It is famous for its steady and accurate manipulation, delicate and vivid performance, exquisite and vivid shapes, and lifelike effects.
This is the shadow puppet theater stage on display
This is the shadow puppet screen seen by the audience
This is a lifelike shadow puppet character shape
Before the performance, Zhu Guoqiang, a representative figure of Jinggang Shadow Play, and his partner were listening to the modern Peking Opera "The Story of the Red Lantern" played on their mobile phones.
Zhu Guoqiang is a shadow puppet performing artist. He was born in a family of shadow puppet art, is the fifth generation heir of his ancestors and a representative inheritor of intangible cultural heritage shadow puppet art. He can paint and carve, and perform all-round performances on the stage. He also wrote books and essays to inherit new people and made important contributions to the inheritance and development of Jinggang shadow play art.
Various performance props are placed in the shadow puppet performance room
The sign hanging on the wall means the responsibility of the shadow puppet artist
At 11:30 a.m., the performance is about to begin.
Couplets are hung on both sides of the stage: "Singing Qianqiu opera in one cavity, holding millions of soldiers with both hands", interpreting the profound connotation of shadow play art.
Today's song: Mr. Dong Guo and Wolf
Leaving the Shadow Puppet Art Museum and walking onto the old street, two teams of young girls walked towards them. They held oil-paper umbrellas in their hands, sometimes singing and dancing gently, sometimes walking leisurely, attracting countless eyes for a while.
The "Scent" Museum, I don't know what it's selling.
After walking around the ancient town, it was already two o'clock in the afternoon, and we returned to the "Fengya" Square.

Walking out of here is our return journey to Changsha City.

The information in this article mainly comes from Baidu, and part of it is taken from netizens 'travel notes. Thank you here.

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