charming Xiangxi
UP ChinaTravel
2024-08-03 11:51:15
0Times

Everyone's interpretation of travel is different. As a calligraphy enthusiast, a preference for humanities is inevitable. I used to think about making a good strategy before traveling and having a perfect plan. As the number of trips increased, I increasingly realize that the importance of strategies is not as important as I imagined. For example, everyone says that Zhangjiajie can easily walk astray without a guide. In my opinion, it is completely unnecessary unless you climb from the bottom of the mountain; Another example is that everyone wants to travel at a certain attraction during the most suitable time period for travel, but many times it is a kind of fate or an encounter. Such a meeting is actually more satisfying and makes people feel that there are surprises in life everywhere.

When I left the airport at around 10 p.m., I saw a free shuttle bus from civil aviation hotels in the city. The Ichen Hotel I booked was just 100 meters ahead. The dim street lights set off the long shadows and the coolness in the air came on my face. I was lucky to encounter a large-scale cooling in North China. The hotel facilities are not bad. I consulted the front desk and tourism department and I have a plan for tomorrow's itinerary.


Zhangjiajie National Forest Park (Admission is 245 yuan, valid for three days). At about 8 o'clock, the hotel takes a taxi to the bus station. There are multiple lines at the bus station in Zhangjiajie. Some go to Zhangjiajie Forest Park and some go to Wulingyuan. Go on at your disposal. If Zhangjiajie Forest Park is the main entrance, then Wulingyuan is equivalent to the back door. The advantage is that after entering the back door, there are eco-friendly vehicles from various lines directly. No tour guide has accurate information on eco-friendly vehicle dispatch. When I entered, the dispatcher said that you only came at this point, you could only visit Shili Gallery and Jinbian River. I also murmured, how is this possible? Facts proved that I only went to Huangshi Village, and he was completely right.


The first stop is Shili Gallery. The small train goes back and forth for 52 yuan. The walk makes me feel like it only takes about 10 minutes, if I don't continue to watch the monkeys. I don't pay much for the beauty of Zhangjiajie, or maybe I happened to encounter rainy and snowy days, so the visibility is particularly poor. From all angles, the rows of stone pillars are like a big bonsai. In terms of majesty, they are not as majestic and continuous as Huangshan Mountain; In terms of danger, it is not as steep and thrilling as Huashan. I also forgive my imagination for not being so rich and I can't see any "tea-picking elderly people". Of course, Shili Gallery also has its own characteristics. The feeling of changing scenery is very strong. When I turn around, the scenery is particularly pleasant.




I turned back to the starting point of Shili Gallery and took an eco-friendly car to the Hundred Dragons Ladder. I originally wanted to go directly up and see Mount Hallelujah. I was secretly happy when I saw that there were not many people queuing up to buy tickets. I didn't expect there were people who would refund tickets in front of me. I asked why the refund was. They said they had been queuing for three hours and would take more than an hour to get on the ticket. The problem was that it would take so long to get down. I didn't give up and asked the armed police guard again. He said it would take 3 hours, which was too long, so I still took an eco-friendly car to Jinbian River. The total length of Jinbian River is 7.5 kilometers. The scene where Journey to the West hits the bones of the bones is the scene. Walking along the Jinbian River is the main entrance of Zhangjiajie Forest Park. Walking along the stream, I occasionally meet some tourists. Listening to the sound of water flow, there are stone pillars within reach. Zhangjiajie mountains are very close, and occasionally there will be monkeys. Walk and take a look and take a pat. It takes an hour and a half to two hours to walk. The overall scenery is available in Emei, Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces. The difference is that there are not so close and knife-like mountains at about 90 degrees.


I took an eco-friendly car to Huangshi Village. It was said that the cableway there was not closed, and I never gave up until I went up the mountain. There were very few tourists in Huangshi Village, so I went directly to the cable car. It snowed on the mountain. The scenery once I got out of the cableway was still very beautiful. The snow fell on the rime, which was completely a lens of Avatar. The entire Huangshi Village was a big circle. Walking around the road was like walking in a fairyland. The thick clouds blurred my vision, and the ice on the branches stood proudly. It was dark in Zhangjiajie, and it was nearly 6 o'clock to go down the mountain. It's still light and the bus back to the city takes 40 minutes.






The Puguang Zen Temple (free of charge) in the center of Zhangjiajie City is a temple dating from the Yongle Period of the Ming Dynasty. It is quite old (7 years earlier than the Forbidden City in Beijing and 4 years earlier than the Golden Hall of Wudang Mountain). It is a temple integrating three religions. Historically, it includes the Confucian Temple, the Martial Temple, the City God Temple and the Songliang Academy. Heard from the concierge that it used to be a local school. I accidentally discovered this temple while renting it. The modern commerce around it cannot erase its beauty at all. For her sake, I entered it for the third time. The temple's dilapidated condition was within my expectations. The doorman said sheepishly that he was waiting for the Cultural Relics Bureau to repair it. This is probably the contemporary attitude towards ancient architecture and culture. In an era where greed is suffused and fame is pursued, how many people will stop for her, and how many will respect her past.






Xiuhua Mountain Pavilion with its closed door. The museum was founded by Chen Chuhua, founder of sandstone painting, and is the first Tujia private museum in China. I originally wanted to lead the way with Tujia culture. It is said that the exhibits inside all came from fields, mountains, villages and castles. Unfortunately, it was probably during the Spring Festival. If I didn't open the door, I could only take a photo and settle the matter.


One-seventh of the old courtyard (ticket 90) is the house of the Tusi Tian family. Unfortunately, most of it was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution, and now only one-seventh is left, but this cannot conceal her beauty. Sihe patio fire-sealed wall Tujia building. Integrating Tujia gardens and hanging buildings, it is a typical Tujia dwelling house. I don't know if the promotion was not adequate or if everyone thought the tickets were too expensive, I was the only tourist during the entire journey, but the two-hour visit was very beautiful and knowledgeable. This is the charm and essence of Xiangxi.






The simple eight words to admonish the study room were all directly targeted.



A characteristic of Tujia architecture, light can be transmitted from the roof.



Wu Nuo culture. I remember that the male protagonist in the Korean drama "The Moon Embracing the Sun" used a mask. This mask is the Nuo mask in Wu Nuo culture. Wu Nuo culture is actually a sacrificial culture with a strong religious color. It is divided into two parts: witch culture and Nuo culture. The main contents of witchcraft culture include Pangu offering sacrifices to heaven and Pangu. Nuo culture advocates believing in gods and promoting karma, including the return of Nuo wishes, Nuo opera and Nuo technical performances. Returning Nuo vows is the custom of Miao ancestors to sacrifice to the Nuo god. The content includes those who return for acetone, those who return for heirs, those who return for promotion and wealth, etc. Nuo opera was originally an ancient witchcraft activity to expel epidemic ghosts, but it gradually added an entertainment part. Nuo opera performances mainly wear wooden masks. Masks are the characteristics of this opera and generally contain religious and mythical content. Nuo skills are one of the manifestations of Nuo culture. In folk sacrificial activities, witches use sacrifices and difficult skills as pre-sacrificial performances to increase the mystery of the sacrificial ceremony, such as our common methods of climbing knives and ladders, stepping on fireplows, and spitting red fire.


Drive corpses. One type of Miao Gu art is part of the Chu witch culture. Gu art includes black witchcraft and white witchcraft, and chasing corpses belongs to white witchcraft. The picture below is the Soul Catcher Bell. The corpse driving is to let a series of guests die in other places. They follow the corpse driving and pass through the province and return to their hometowns. The corpse driving is just to lead the dead body through the rugged mountain road, back to the plains, and then hand it over to their relatives. Burial. And this technique with a strong mysterious color is said to have been lost.




Tianmen Mountain (Admission 225 yuan). The cableway up the mountain is in the center of the city, about 30 minutes each way. You can see the entire city. Due to the rainy and snowy weather, the line of sight is not clear, and the steep mountains are completely invisible, only white. There is a lot of snow on Tianmen Mountain. There are three walking routes: the east line, the west line and the middle line. I walked the east line for 1500 meters, turned back and went to the west line again, for Tianmen Mountain Temple. The mountain road is very difficult to walk on. It is icy and slippery, and wrestling must be carried out at all times. However, I also saw some strange people climbing mountains wearing high heels. I was amazed. It was absolutely impossible to walk an inch. Visibility is also very low. When I finally arrived at Tianmenshan Temple surrounded by clouds and mist, I felt very solemn and solemn. The temple was quite open and had an extraordinary aura. The bell towers and towers faced each other in the clouds and mist. Of course, the low temperature also made people tremble with cold.










Eat in Zhangjiajie


The best restaurant on this trip was Zhangjiajie, which was very popular. Hunan food was very authentic and we had to settle it here for two days.





The hard-seat train goes to Jishou at 17:25 (17.5 yuan, absolutely experience life), and I arrive at Jishou at 18:25. There are many minibuses from Jishou to Fenghuang. However, due to the late weather, I carpooled a car with three Guangdong tourists on the train to Fenghuang and drove us to Nanhuamen. There were also three Hebei tourists on the train, all of whom came from Zhangjiajie. We chatted with each other about their experiences and feelings and laughed all the way. As soon as the time came, the scene of each of them calling the inninnkeeper was also very real. The journey is like life. Walking with some people at a certain time, and separating them when we arrive. The night view of the phoenix is extremely shocking. I never expected the night of the phoenix to be so lively and the lights to be so bright. I took a taxi to the inn, and then immediately came out to "inspect" the night view. Phoenix is 10 times more commercialized than I thought. There are bars after bars, rock, folk, and in short. From time to time, there are drunk tourists coming out from one house to the next. Deaf music and electric guitars are the main theme of the entire old street. I think if you want to destroy a place, let it be commercialized.





Fenghuang Ancient City (Admission: 138 yuan). No matter how much controversy there is about Phoenix tickets, I think I will still buy them. This is a matter of opinion. Because I want to go to Shen Congwen's former residence, I also want to visit the Guzhen Museum.


Okay, I have to admit that I don't like mountain climbing very much. My sense of self-abuse about mountain climbing is far greater than the so-called sense of conquest. I came for the phoenix, the misty and misty border city written by Shen Congwen, the leisurely Tuojiang River, and the faint sadness in the book. The first stop was Shen Congwen's former residence. He shed tears twice when he visited Border Town."That person may come back tomorrow, or he may never come back again." Leave you with infinite space to cover up and think. The rainy and rainy weather of the phoenix also creates an atmosphere that makes people think and sad.


Ancient Town Museum. That is, Chen Baozhen's former residence. The Chen family has five heroes (Chen Baozhen, the reformer, Chen Sanli, the master of modern Chinese poetry, Chen Shizeng, the leader of Chinese painting, the famous poet Chen Longke, and Chen Yinke, the master of Chinese history of Chinese studies). It is the most dazzling cultural family in the history of modern Chinese celebrities. The architectural layout of the old house complements the Chen Baozhen family. There are four rivers, a home at home, a museum in the museum, birds sing, flowers, and a deep secluded realm in the courtyard. It is definitely worth recalling again and again. Every detail is amazing. The golden sentence of Chen Shizeng and his teacher Qi Baishi,"If you don't have me, I will retreat without you", makes people feel the joy and tacit understanding of finding a friend from high mountains and rivers.







Attractions for admission include the Yang Family Ancestral Hall, Donglou Gate, Xiong Xiling's former residence, etc. Some old houses can be preserved because they were the seat of the Revolutionary Committee during the Cultural Revolution. Thankfully, the Revolutionary Committee finally did a good thing, hehe.












Fenghuang's Laogen Restaurant is actually difficult to match despite its reputation. It may also be a southerner who is not used to the so-called Hunan cuisine known for its sour and spicy food. On the other hand, I have visited Huilongge's Dege snacks several times. The shrimp cakes are very delicious, and the boss and the landlady are also very down-to-earth. They always warmly invite you to eat while roasting the fire. They are worth recommending.





Merchants in Phoenix don't turn on air conditioners, which is definitely a major feature. Every house is warmed by fire, but not every table is warmed by fire. It's too cold for people. Afternoon tea in Suri, it gets colder as you sit. Guests are either reading, thinking, or writing postcards. These are probably a few things you must do in Phoenix. Don't fantasize too much about cakes. This level is just a pass score. It's too cold to escape back to the inn to rest. The next attraction is Shen Congwen's tomb. After walking for about 15 minutes, what moved people were the excerpts of Zhang Zhaohe's memorial service. The simple words and true emotions. Such a marriage is really a rare opportunity. Suddenly I thought of a passage from Mo Yan: "The smoke rises from the kitchen, and I will wait for you at the door. When the sun goes down, I will wait for you by the mountain." The leaves are turning yellow, I am waiting for you in the tree, the moon is bent, I am waiting for you on the fifteenth day, the drizzle is coming, I am waiting for you under the umbrella. The running water is frozen, I will wait for you by the river. Life is tired, I am waiting for you in heaven. We are old. I am waiting for you in the next life. What can be together to grow old is not only love, but also responsibilities and habits."








Evening is a good time to buy handwritten letters. Stroll around the ancient city. Ginger candy and bloody loaf duck are local specialties. It is also very convenient to express them after buying them. I originally wanted to buy silver ornaments, but I accidentally learned that no one could buy real silver ornaments as long as they were tourists, so I gave up. Leave for the bar at eight o'clock and go to the most well-known elopement bar. This is a folk song bar. Look at the words left by tourists from all walks of life. Each text is a mood and an attitude. If the photo is frozen, it is time, then the words here are the interpretation of the time. The resident singing is not Zuo Li, but it is also a folk song of the same origin. It is basically Song Dongye's world. The whistle that the resident singing is a bit unique. I actually hope to hear something like KAREN ANN, haha. From time to time, guests will go up and play an impromptu song, listen to the music and become stunned, drink a glass of bailey, and drink a toast to the phoenix night.









Boating on the Tuo River. It is said that the Tuojiang River is the most beautiful with dusk mist, so I came to the Tuojiang River in the early morning. The simple boatman asked me to warm the fire and wait for other tourists to sail. It was really cold. The poetry and faint beauty of Tuojiang River are fully revealed in Xiangmei's singing. During the day, really only during the day can I feel the "tea cave" written by Shen Congwen.






Read alone. I want to spend the luxury in a daze in Phoenix. This is my biggest wish on this trip. So I went to this store, had a latte, lit incense, and read a book. The owner has a lot of connections with the elopement bar. The style of the store is also a folk song and fresh route. There are few people, so I can sit quietly by the stove and warm myself while reading. It is a very good experience.




Walking around the old streets, I can always discover the beauty of the phoenix from all angles. I understood why Shen Congwen clamored to return to Xiangxi during the Cultural Revolution. When I first saw the phoenix, I always thought that commercialization had destroyed the city. But at the second glance, I realized that no matter how much you destroy him, he will not lose it. That is a kind of spirit, and it is also because of the support of culture that it is so strong. Whenever they pick up the camera and aim it at them, they either cover their faces with something or turn their backs away... The bus leaves for Changsha at 2:30 p.m., Fenghuang, I will say goodbye to you.









Huo gongdian


Changsha, which is famous for its snacks, has a specialty. However, as a southerner, he is not very accustomed to it. Stinky tofu is very characteristic. It is black and fried very crispy, dragon fat pig blood, wonton, onion oil cake, sister dumplings, and the price is also friendly to the people. I won't comment more on the taste.





Yuelu Academy (ticket 50). The recommended must-visit attractions are the concentrated essence of ancient Chinese academy culture, covering many aspects of culture such as architecture and gardens. The most important thing is that there is a Lushan Temple Monument inside. The right army is like a dragon and the North Sea is like an elephant. In the era of strict laws in the Tang Dynasty, he entered the monument with running script. He is unique, has a resolute character, and is a real gentleman. I remember that when I first visited the "Lushan Temple Stele", it didn't look like it at all, and I couldn't enter it at all. Now that I think about it, apart from my lack of qualifications and skills, what's more important is that my realm is not enough. The Yuelu Academy after the snow is even more solemn, and Hunan University without walls is also very distinctive. The old and new buildings are scattered and the academic atmosphere is strong.








Chinese Academy Museum.


In the Yuelu Academy, a detailed introduction to the existing academies in China is given, as well as the old admission certificates and gold list nomination documents. It is quite interesting and the place is also very large. Many of them have restored a hall in the academy, and some plaques and cultural supplies are all cute gadgets, which most people today do not have this elegance.







love late Pavilion


The Aiwan Pavilion under the first snow looks particularly beautiful. Parking and sitting in Aifeng Forest at night, the scenery is beautiful. The buildings of the ancients were always in place in terms of landscape and sight.


Guyuelu Temple


I like the feeling of the ancient temple. It is not so shiny and it will not have an exaggerated area. Maybe people now think differently. The temple doors in the past were not big. Lushan Temple did not accept tickets, and there was no obvious place to sell incense. Inside, the main hall is doing rituals, and the sound of chanting is lingering. The temple should not be commercialized. Of course, nowadays, utilitarian use is the dominant factor, and everyone either follows the custom or suffers from discrimination.





Changsha Bamboo Slips Museum.


The Hunan Province Museum is undergoing internal maintenance and will not open until three years later. It is hard to imagine what scale the repair will be. It actually takes three years. Then, we still need to visit the Bamboo Slips Museum. First, we can learn about the production of bamboo slips, and secondly, we can appreciate the evolution of bamboo slips calligraphy in various dynasties. It is also a free visit with our ID card. In addition to Chinese bamboo slips, there are also introductions of early writing media around the world. It is still very good. Unfortunately, most of the bamboo slips on display are replicas, but it is understandable. Bamboo slips are not easy to preserve.




Tianxin Pavilion (free in the park, 32 yuan for climbing the building)


Opposite the Bamboo Slips Museum is Tianxin Park, and inside is Tianxin Pavilion. Looking into the distance, the scenery is quite good, but I didn't climb the building because of time. Tianxin Park is basically empty, very quiet and not big, with an ancient city wall.





Taiping Street


The old street in the center of Changsha City is now fully commercialized. This road is not long. Jia Yi's former residence is here, as is the Taiping Granary of Premier Zhu Rongji's house. They are all very distinctive buildings.






former residence of Jia Yi




Jia Yi, as the tutor, and his masterpiece "On Crossing the Qin Dynasty", there is a well he dug himself in his former residence. The traces of time are located side by side with modern buildings on Taiping Old Street. Perhaps this is the embarrassing situation of our present traditional culture.


Former Residence of Li Fuchun


This is the last stop, and you can visit it for free with your ID card. It is not far from Jia Yizu, so I'll take a look.


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