Influenced by "The Romance of the Three Kingdoms", I have always expected to visit Sichuan in depth. In the early years, due to work, although he traveled to and from Sichuan and Chongqing many times, he only visited Langzhong and Pang Tong Temple in a hurry. In recent years, he has entered Sichuan along the Chencang Road Sutra and visited the ruins of Zifang, Kongming, Han Xin's Praying General Platform, and the place where Wei Yan was killed. He also rushed into the grottoes of Guangyuan in a hurry. Later, he followed Elder Ta to the hinterland of Sichuan and Chongqing, and visited the exquisite Tang and Song stone carvings in the countryside of Bashu far away from the busy city. Finally, I fell into the root cause of my illness and always reminded myself: I will definitely visit Sichuan and ancient times again. However, there are many attractions in other places, such as Kizil in Xinjiang, Hancheng and Jindu in Shanshan, Goguryo on the Yalu River, Gongxian Grottoes and Song Tombs, which are delayed again and again in Sichuan. Finally, at the end of this year, it was fated to follow Elder Pagoda into Sichuan again and explore the cave murals in central and southern Sichuan, hoping to see the truth before the National Security Council was completely "overhauled" and "protected".

In order to make full use of our time and budget (overspent this year), we planned to travel a few days earlier, then enter Sichuan via Guangyuan, revisit Guangyuan Huangjue Temple and Qianfo Cliff, which were hastily arrived last time, and then go from Guangyuan to Qingmuchuan Ancient Town, which is famous for its TV series and Master Wei, and finally go to Chengdu to gather together the same friends.

Just as the itinerary was scheduled, I accidentally looked at the description of Pingwu Baoen Temple in "Sifei Coordinates" and found that it was "an extremely grand Ming Palace style building outside the capital." Another travel note said that it was one of the most complete Ming Dynasty temples in the world, and immediately decided to abandon the ancient town and move to Pingwu. Go to Douyan Mountain in Jiangyou on the way.

theA busy day's journey

Today is suitable: haircut, repair walls, plug holes, make a net, and meet relatives and friends. Taboo: Marry, enter a house, settle down, migrate. It is a neutral day for going out, but it turns out that it is obviously inappropriate to go out.

Plan: Beijing Flight 0730 flies to Guangyuan to visit Huangjue Temple and Qianfo Cliff. The evening high-speed train arrived at Jiangyou, where I lived in Jiangyou. On the morning of the next day, I climbed Doushan Mountain and arrived in Pingwu in the afternoon.

Get up, book a car, board a plane, take off, everything goes smoothly. I woke up and it was approaching the landing time, but I clearly felt that the plane was still circling in the sky. Sure enough, the captain announced that due to the lack of landing conditions at the airport, he would make an alternate landing in Chongqing (eight hundred miles away from Guangyuan) for everyone's safety. Fifteen years of aircraft, thank you! Arriving at Chongqing Airport, the airline's ground service told me that due to the strong wind at Guangyuan Airport, it was unpredictable when it would be possible to fly. If we arrive at Guangyuan at night, we will not be able to get to Jiangyou today, and Pingwu's plan may fail. The focus of northern Sichuan's visit to Cuba was Baoen Temple in Pingwu. Although Guangyuan's two national security facilities were National 1, they were worth paying homage again. After all, they had visited before and decided to give up and take the high-speed railway from Chongqing to Jiangyou directly. During hesitation, I found that the originally sufficient high-speed rail tickets were almost instantly killed. I was so shocked that I was covered in a cold sweat that I grabbed the last ticket and hurried to Jiangyou.

Figure 1. Chenzhi Beijing Airport

Figure 2. Guangying Chongqing West Railway Station

After some trouble, I finally arrived at Jiangyou at dinnertime. 20 yuan carpooled to Wudu Town and checked into the planned hotel closest to Douyan Mountain. Outside the hotel is a "Lao You Hot Pot Restaurant". I didn't dare to try it, but I'll still have my "Standard Travel Package". While I was full of food and drink, I received information from the airline that my original flight arrived safely at Guangyuan Airport (already 2100) after an 11-hour delay. Fortunately, the plan was changed. The airline also agreed to refund part of the difference, which was a comfort, although it was not much.

Figure 3. My standard travel package

Two National Security Offices in Guangyuan that could not be visited again

Cliff Statue of Huangze Temple (1),Tang

It began in the late Northern Wei Dynasty and went through continuous carving in the Northern Zhou Dynasty, Sui Dynasty, Early Tang Dynasty, and Prosperous Tang Dynasty, and declined after its peak in the Middle Tang Dynasty. It lasted for more than 300 years. It is said that this was once Wu Zetian's family temple, with Wu's true appearance stone carvings inside. There are currently 57 caves and niches and more than 1200 statues of various sizes. Important caves include No. 12, No. 13 Waibei, No. 15, No. 28 (Big Buddha Cave, Zhongzong Li Xian), No. 38, No. 45(Central Pillar), No. 51, No. 55, No. 56, etc.

Key points: The true appearance of Zetian Hall is carved with stone, the stele of Prince Ascendant to the Immortal, and the heart sutra is written by Yan Zhenqing. Dafo Tower (the provider is suspected to be Zhongzong Li Xian). Central Pillar Cave. Collection (6 caves, 41 niches, 1203 stone carvings from the Northern Wei Dynasty to the Ming and Qing Dynasties, embossed from Song tombs, Guangyuan Mansion Monument, Twelve Things of Silkworms, Guangzheng Monument). Tickets 45.

Cliff Statue on Thousand Buddha Cliff in Guangyuan (1),Tang and Song Dynasties

Along the Shu Road on the east bank of the Jialing River 4 kilometers north of Guangyuan City. It is the most magnificent grotto group in Sichuan. The inscription in the fourth year of Xianfeng of the Qing Dynasty (1854) stated that there were more than 17,000 Buddha statues. Unfortunately, the Sichuan-Shaanxi Highway was built in 1935, destroying more than one-half of the statues. The existing stone carvings are more than 200 meters long from north to south, and the highest point is about 40 meters. There are more than 400 niches and more than 7,000 statues.

Highlights: Big Buddha Cave, Lotus Cave, Dayungu Cave, Muni Pavilion, Sleeping Buddha Niches, Chilian Guanyin Cave, Bodhi Rui Statue Cave, Lusena Buddha Niches, Zangfo Cave, Central Altar Back Screen Cave.

The second day, Douyan Mountain in Jiangyou to Pingwu

There are several reasons for stopping overnight in Jiangyou. There is no direct bus from Guangyuan to Pingwu. Jiangyou is the only city closest to Pingwu and has high-speed rail, and the high-speed rail from Guangyuan to Jiangyou takes less than an hour. If it weren't for flight problems, I would arrive in Guangyuan in the morning, visit the two Guoyi places, and then arrive in Jiangyou in the afternoon.

In addition, there is also a national security site in Jiangyou, Yunyan Temple on Dou Yuan Mountain.

Wudu Town is the seat of ancient Jiangyou County, 15 kilometers away from the center of Jiangyou City. Because I arrived at night, I felt that the street was dimly lit and very quiet. However, I was awakened by the long-lost crow in the early morning.

Figure 4. Morning in Wudu

Douyu Mountain is located in Wudu Town, east bank of Fujiang River, north of Jiangyou City, Sichuan. It is said that Dou Yu, the chief clerk of Zhangming (now Jiangyou) in the Tang Dynasty, lived here in seclusion, hence the name. The road leading up the mountain winds in a roundabout way, with green trees and beautiful scenery. When Li Bai was a boy, he visited this mountain and wrote the ancient quatrain,"Woodcutter and cultivator, enter and exit the painting screen." Yu Ren, a later Kuomintang veteran, engraved the handwritten calligraphy on the stone tablet in the mountain.

Figure 5. Overlooking Doujian Mountain

Figure 6. Yu Youren wrote Li Bai's poems in calligraphy

Douyu Mountain has "six wonders": Qifeng, Tiesuo Feidu, Yunyan Temple, Feitianzang, Baipi Pine and Tianzao gliding.

1. Qifeng

There are three strange peaks on top of the top of Douyu Mountain, with temples on them, which are not connected to each other.

Figure 7. Overlooking the Qifeng

2. Iron chain flying

Only one peak of the three peaks can be used up and down, and the other two peaks are connected by iron chains. You need to climb iron chains and fly across. When the weather is fine, someone has performed an iron chain...

Figure 8. Iron Chain Flying

3、Jiangyou Yunyan Temple (3)，Song Zhiqing

The temple was built in the Tang Dynasty and was destroyed by soldiers at the end of the Ming Dynasty (most of the historical sites in Sichuan and Chongqing were destroyed at the end of the Ming Dynasty). Only the West Side Hall was spared and was rebuilt in the third year of Yongzheng (1725). The Wenchuan earthquake was destroyed again and repaired again. Today, it is a temple mixed with Taoism and Buddhism, but there is no incense anymore.

Figure 9. Outside the gate of Yunyan Temple

Figure 10. Daxiong Hall

Inadvertently, I discovered that the temple on the east side of the main hall was actually used... made.

Figure 11. East Side Temple Treasure Temple-It turns out to be used... do

4. Feitian Tibetan

The most worthy thing to see on Douyu Mountain is the Song Dynasty wooden wheel Jingzang (also known as Feitian Zang and Xingchen Chariot) in the west hall of Yunyan Temple. The height of the hiding place is 10.3 meters, shaped like a wooden tower, with a maximum diameter of 7.5 meters. The axis is a large round log with a diameter of 50 centimeters, which is supported by an iron bearing and can rotate. The shaft is pierced with beams and wooden boards to form an octagonal frame. Small wood carvings are inlaid on the outside of the frame to make the palace pavilions, eaves, beams and columns, hooks, flat seats, and dougong. The Tibetan body consists of three parts: a Tibetan seat, a waist eaves and a Tibetan wheel. It has a precise structure and a grand momentum. The carved flowers on the board walls and the colored paintings on the beams are extremely exquisite. After renovations in recent years, the paint is shiny and exudes a new aura. There are 204 complete Song Dynasty Taoist figures originally carved on the eight-sided board walls and the Tiangong Pavilion, and 125 of them still exist (they have been taken down for "protection" and have not been seen in the museum). The local government advertises this as the largest collection of spinning scriptures in the country, but in fact it should be regarded as the largest collection of Taoist spinning scriptures.

Figure 12. Feitian Tibetan

Figure 13. Axis of Feitian Tibet

Figure 14. Close-up view of the Feitian Tibetan ornaments (traces of removal still exist)

Figure 15. Panlong (much like Baoen Temple in Pingwu)

5. White bark pine

Not getting the gist

6. Tianzuo gliding

Due to the special geographical climate, it is very suitable for Yun paragliding.

Figure 16. The just-concluded competition advertisement

The hotel is about 100 meters away from Wudu Passenger Station. There are many breakfast shops near the station, mainly noodles and noodles. The hotel holds the room until 2 p.m. so that the luggage will remain in the room. To take a bus to Douyan Mountain, whether you are departing from Jiangyou City or Mianyang, you need to transfer at Wudu Passenger Station (I don't know if there are direct buses on holidays). There are three or four flights a day. The first bus 0830 takes 30 minutes to reach the up-going cableway station. Ask the driver for the time and place of the bus down the mountain, and then walk to the cableway station. The cableway technician is still doing the morning inspection of the cableway. After a staff member took the cableway to the top and confirmed that it was normal, he began to release the person (I was the only passenger).

Figure 17. The road to Douqian Mountain

Figure 18. The first cableway

Figure 19. Mountain roads are dry and clean

It takes about four hours to travel back and forth by cableway and climb to the top. If you want to watch the Iron Chain Flying Show, you need more time. Considering the afternoon schedule, I gave up climbing and watching performances and returned from Yunyan Temple. Due to the early ascent of the mountain, there were few tourists. It was not until we got off the cableway that we saw three or two tourists.

It was a bit troublesome to return home. The bus is very casual. When going up the mountain, the driver clearly informed the departure time of the return bus, but after waiting for an hour, there was no bus. As the bus time could not be confirmed, under the guidance of the mountain staff, we walked 2 kilometers down the mountain from the cableway station, and took a passing bus to the intersection of the "Cultural Station" and returned to Wudu. Considering that there are almost no tourists on the mountain, inconvenient transportation is probably one of the reasons.

Go back to the hotel and check out. Coincidentally, the girl on duty at the front desk had her home in Pingwu County. She heard that she wanted to go to Baoen Temple, so she enthusiastically introduced the itinerary and told me that there was no need to return to Jiangyou to Pingwu. The bus from Jiangyou to Pingwu passed by Shuikoumiao Village, not far from Wudu. It runs every thirty minutes, which saves more than an hour of travel. When you are away from home, frequent questioning is a magic weapon.

After lunch, take the bus from Wudu Passenger Station to the intersection of Shuikoumiao Village. Sure enough, after standing for less than ten minutes, he caught the bus in the direction of Pingwu.

Shuikoumiao Road Crossing is about 118 kilometers from Pingwu. It is called the Pingwu River (Jiangyou) Highway. It runs up the Fujiang River and was completed in half a year in 1958. Due to the terrain, most road sections so far are only two-way single lanes. It takes about two hours to arrive at the old Pingwu Passenger Transport Station in front of Baoen Temple Square and pass through Shuhan Jiangyou Pass. This is also a relic of the Three Kingdoms. At that time, Deng Ai, a general of the Cao Wei Dynasty, led a death squad of thousands of people to sneak into Yinping Pass, break through Jiangyou Pass, and lightning attack Fucheng (present-day Mianyang), bypassing the Tianjian Gate guarded by Jiang Wei. The entire defense of Shu collapsed, and Liu Chan opened the city and surrendered. Deng Ai's path to Mianyang should roughly coincide with the 110 kilometers.

Figure 20. Pingjiang Highway Monument in Pingwu

Figure 21. Shuhan Jiangyou Pass

Figure 22. Upper Fujiang River

The bus arrives at the old Pingwu Passenger Station (the new station is outside the city) at around 4 p.m. When you turned the corner, you saw Baoen Temple Square and checked into the hotel smoothly. The Fujiang River is outside the window. Pingwu is an ethnic county, and people wearing ethnic minorities can already be seen on the road.

Figure 23. Believers who transferred scriptures

On the third day, Pingwu arrived in Chengdu via Jiangyou

As an official name, Pingwu appeared after the unification of the Western Jin Dynasty, with the meaning of "the world will be peaceful from now on, and the war will be stopped forever." For me, the place name Pingwu is associated with the "Songpan Pingwu Earthquake" in August 1976. It was one of the three major earthquakes that occurred in China that year. There is also a monument built on the edge of the county seat. Unfortunately, local people have little impression of the earthquake, let alone a monument. Whoo-hoo.

In the morning, I got up with the sound of the surging river. There is only one goal today, Pingwu Baoen Temple located in the center of the county.

Pingwu Baoen Temple（4），Ming

Pingwu was Longzhou in the Ming Dynasty. Wang Xi and Wang Jian, the hereditary local officials of the Xuanfu Department, presided over the construction of Baoen Temple under the imperial edict. It was built in the fifth year of the Zhengyi of Emperor Yingzong of the Ming Dynasty (1440). It is the most complete and largest Ming Dynasty temple in the country. Unlike traditional temples, Baoen Temple sits west and faces east. Opening time 0830, tickets 40.

Figure 24. Pingwu Baoen Temple

Figure 25. The "Imperial Brush" of Shanmen

Figure 26. Tianwang Hall

Figure 27. Afraid that the plaque of the Hall of Kings will be blown away

Figure 28. Main Hall

Later generations summarized the main highlights of Baoen Temple: the building materials of the entire temple are nanmu, the statue of Guanyin with Thousand Hands and Thousands of Eyes in the Great Sadness Hall (made of the entire nanmu), the 11-meter-high wheel scripture collection in the Huayan Hall, and the thousands of dragons (clay sculptures of flat dragons,"dragon positions", etc.) are scattered throughout the temple, painted murals, and the "Dougong Museum".

1. The building materials of the entire temple are all nanmu

Figure 30. These are all from nanmu

2. The statue of Guanyin with thousands of hands and thousands of eyes in the Great Compassion Hall (made of the whole nanmu tree)

3. The 11-meter-high wheel scripture collection in Huayan Hall

Figure 32 Hua Yanzang

4. Dragon gathering (clay sculpture of flat dragons,"dragon seats", etc.)

It is said that when the temple was first built, a total of 9999 dragons were made with plastic belts and paintings. In order to seek good luck, another sign was added, which is the "Today's Emperor is Live Long" card. Looking at the memorial tablet casually placed on the table, I guessed that the original had long disappeared.

Figure 33. Dragon One

Figure 34. Dragon 2

5. Painted murals

In the Daxiong Hall and the Ten Thousand Buddha Pavilion, 300-square-meter murals of the Ming Dynasty are still preserved. Unfortunately, close photos are not allowed. The most exquisite works of art are locked on the second floor of Wanfo Pavilion.

Figure 35. The mural behind the Buddha in the Ten Thousand Buddha Pavilion and the Wang and his son listening

6."Dougong Museum"

Baoen Temple is very famous for its large wooden works. It is said that there are 36 types of more than 2000 different types of arch arches. No wonder the famous architectural school uses this place as a teaching base.

Figure 36. Dougong Museum 1

Figure 37. Dougong Museum 2

In addition to these six points, since it is a royal temple built by imperial construction, all buildings have glazed roofs. Various glass components are also very interesting.

Figure 38. The art of glass

The mountains are high and the roads are far away, and there are few tourists. Apart from me, there are only a few local elderly people worshiping Buddha. As the first visitor today, I was fortunate enough to receive special attention. Not long after entering the temple, someone came and informed me,"Photography is prohibited in the temple!" Watts? In recent years, hundreds of national security sites have been visited. Although indoor photography is still strictly prohibited in many places with murals and colored sculptures, more and more places have allowed tourists to take photos indoors with mobile phones, and outdoor photography is prohibited. It is unique. There was no sign saying "No Photos" in the courtyard. It was really too much care. After discussing it with the staff for a few words, they insisted that they could take photos at least outdoors and ensured that flash lights would not be used indoors. The other party finally stopped insisting and introduced the current situation of some cultural relics more enthusiastically and told them to go to Wanfo Building to scan the code.

According to folklore, Wang's son and son did not know how high and low they were. They built a mansion like the imperial palace in Beijing, and secretly invited craftsmen who had participated in the Forbidden City project to guide the work. However, they were discovered by the central government and sent imperial censors to investigate. Wang and his son knew that they had committed a serious crime, so they hurriedly revised the project while sending people to welcome the imperial envoy halfway. The mountains are high and the roads are far away. The imperial envoy has been touring the mountains and rivers for three years. By the time we arrived in Pingwu, the mansion had been converted into a temple. Coupled with the comprehensive reception work, although there were still some over-standard construction, it was acceptable. The court gave it the name "Imperial Temple to Build Baoen Temple" and issued an edict "not to do this again." Today, over-regulations are still visible in many places, such as a pair of scripture towers outside the mountain gate, which is said to be compared with the magnificent tables in front of Chengtian Gate. The "Little Jinshui Bridge" is also preserved in the courtyard.

Figure 39. The legendary "Little Jinshui Bridge"

Figure 40. Jingzhuang replacing Huabiao

Figure 41. A close-up view of Jingzhuang (Chinese-Tibetan bilingual languages rarely seen in China)

However, I saw the floor plan of Baoen Temple and found a temple structure at the end. In addition, Wang's son and son are not the only local officials. If they attempt to make a counter-plot, they may be taken down early. The words "Jinshui Bridge" and "Huabiao" are far-fetched, while the "Imperial Palace" is even more suspected of being "arrogant". However, in such a remote place, using glass, Wanlong, etc. to build temples is already of royal level and requires special approval. Therefore, the imperial edict built a pavilion and erected a monument.

Figure 42. Imperial Decree Monument

Figure 43. Plan of Baoen Temple

After lingering for more than three hours, he reluctantly left Baoen Temple. I also took a detour to see two cultural relics: Pingwu West Gate (Ming) and Pingjiang Highway Monument. Unfortunately, I did not copy the Songping Earthquake Monument.

Figure 44. Pingwu West Gate-Under demolition

Return to the hotel at noon, check out, and buy tickets from Jiangyou to Chengdu in the evening online. Two hours later, I took the bus from the old passenger station to Mianyang via Jiangyou and returned to the center of Jiangyou City. Passing through the city center, we visit the "Red Army Victory Monument" in Baojiangyou Province. This monument also has a tortuous story.

Figure 45. Red Army Victory Monument

The Red Army Victory Monument is located in the center of Jiangyou City. The body is 17 meters high and the base is 2.85 meters high. The monument was originally erected by the local gentry to commemorate Dong Songheng, the chief officer of the local Sichuan Army, in suppressing bandits and building roads and protecting the people. In 1935, after breaking through Jianmen Pass, the Fourth Front Army of the Red Army reached the Jiangyou area, defeated Sun Zhen's troops of the Sichuan Army (Sun was the commander and Dong Songheng was the deputy commander), and occupied Zhongba (now Jiangyou City). Immediately, the Dong Monument was changed into a Red Army Victory Monument and the inscription was engraved. After the Red Army withdrew, the monument was changed to the "Monument to Sun Yat-sen", and the inscription engraved by the Red Army was shoveled away. It was not until after liberation that the inscription was engraved again and the content was changed back to the Red Army period. Dong Songheng is a native of Renshou County, Sichuan (the last stop of this Sichuan trip) and has been a long-term follower of Sun Zhen (Sun was the uncle of the star Qin and Han Dynasty). Dong led the army to Qi Yi in 1949 and was later elected as a member of the CPPCC. He died of a heart attack in Beijing in 1955 and was buried in Babaoshan. Everything that seems irrelevant can always find the intersection between them.

I moved into Chengdu smoothly that night. Looking forward to the excitement of the second half.

******