Two Crossroads: A Century of Storm (Part 1): Crossroads, Xuefu, Parachute Tower, International Friends, and Library Administrator Jin Yong
UP ChinaTravel
2024-07-23 20:32:30
0Times
Days: 2 days Time: March Per capita: 100 yuan With whom: with friends

Living in the city of Chongqing

It's actually easy to overlook many things

A small alley, a cliff, a crossroads,

A sculpture, a set of escalators, an old factory

……

Today, Chongqing has become a place of internet celebrities

These places that are chased and highly sought after in the online world or in the eyes of tourists

In the eyes of locals, it's just a daily routine

The intersection of two roads is precisely such a treasure trove

chastity

But Huaijin holds the jade

Map of Lianglukou Street

From the administrative center of the city in the early days of the founding of the People's Republic of China, the transportation hub center and economic center in the early stages of reform, to the cultural and leisure center in the new era, each intersection in each historical stage has a different appearance, condensing the soul of Chongqing.

What is carried here is the past of the mother city Yuzhong, witnessing the history of Chongqing's development. In the past century, the intersection of two roads has left a brilliant mark on the Chinese and even the world stage more than once.

Chongqing Soong Ching Ling Memorial Hall Photography by You Lick

But the two intersections are also calm and indifferent, and this emotion even affects everyone living here. They seem to have never remembered the glory and glory of the land they live on. They just grew up here calmly, and occasionally outsiders passed by. When talking to them, they said without a trace of smoke and fire, 'Yes, this is where the foreign embassies in China are located.'; That small building, where Song Qingling lived for a long time; That library, Jin Yong used to be a librarian here

Photography of the Former US Embassy Exhibition Hall by Yulike

No Chongqing person will forget these things. They just hold onto their pride and pride in their own bones. Compared to others, they prefer to wander through the streets and alleys of the intersection, climb up to the rooftops to watch the sunset, chat freely with neighbors who are not far away, sit under trees to cool off when the elderly return from the market, and see children and cats in the hot air of the small shop.

Pang Mei Noodle Shop Photography/You Lick

The bodies at the two intersections are familiar and approachable in the market

But the souls at the intersection are advanced and artistic

How many people have come to the intersection

Some people are reluctant to leave

But those who left

Always remembering

Every day belonging to the intersection of two hundred years


01 Starting point of leaving the city and ending point of entering the city

Located at the intersection of two roads in the upper half of Chongqing, it used to be the exit of the city, with one road leading to Chengdu and the other leading to northern Sichuan. At this' three-way intersection ', looking ahead from any direction, there are two roads ahead, hence the name' Two Intersection '. In the last feudal dynasty of China, the Qing Dynasty, this place was still in the wilderness. According to the terrain around the intersection of the two roads, this area is mostly hilly farmland, with occasional tombs interspersed among them. The urban area of Chongqing has not yet extended to this point, and the frequency of wild animals appearing at night is much higher than that of humans.

But the name 'Lianglukou' is still widely known within the boundaries of Chongqing at that time, because for Chongqing people who left home at that time, this was the starting point and ending point of their journey home - here, there were two intersections, and it was the most important exit from the city.

The cable car picture from Lianglukou to Caiyuanba in the 1980s is from the internet

Coming out from Tongyuan Gate is Xinglong Street, passing through Chunyang Cave, Tea Pavilion, Feilai Temple... After that, there are two intersections, and the next one is to diverge: a fork in the road heading north, taking the waterway. You can go to Niujiaotuo to change boats to Jiangbei Hall, or go further down the river and walk to Langzhong. If you want to continue walking, you can get to the dock to change boats; At another intersection, you can take Chengyu East Road and head west along Chengyu East Road, passing through Fotuguan, Shiqiaopu, Baishiyi, Bishan County, all the way to the provincial capital: Chengdu Prefecture.

The picture of the two cable car stations in the past is from the internet

When sending someone out of the city, they usually wave goodbye at the intersection of the two roads. Those who enter the city also take a short rest here, tidy up their clothes, take a breath, and then climb up the hill behind the intersection with great energy.

This gives rise to the taste of "outside the Changting, along the ancient path, with lush green grass stretching to the sky". Unfortunately, Chongqing City did not have Li Shutong back then - Chongqing Prefecture was under the jurisdiction of the Sichuan Chengxuan Administration at that time, with high mountains and distant waters, vast land and sparse population, and relatively low education level, making it a standard four or five level city.

At that time, under the Dahuang Jue tree at the bifurcation of the two intersections, the commercially minded ancestors set up a tea shed to sell herbal tea and Shaobing (Baked cake in griddle). According to the season, they also sell mung bean porridge and roasted sweet potatoes. If the merchant has a few extra coins, the boss will bring out a bowl of turbid wine and a few slices of braised pig ears - for those who have just walked from Chongqing city to this place, or for those who have just returned home after months or even years of trekking from afar, this is also full of ceremony.

There is a kind of grandeur called going to the city, and a kind of desolation called leaving the hometown.

Nowadays, the two intersections have already been incorporated into the core circle of the main city, but geographically they are still divided: from Zhongshan Road passing through the Cultural Palace at Tongyuan Gate, turning right leads to Shangqing Temple and Zengjiayan, and turning left leads to Erling and Daping.

No matter how big the city is, the direction is eternal.


02 Context of Two Crossroads

On January 21st, 1891, the 21st day of the first lunar month in the 17th year of the Guangxu reign, it was an unavoidable time in the history of Chongqing. It was on this day that Chongqing officially opened its port.

Around this time, "foreigners" began to enter Chongqing one after another. Among them are explorers, missionaries, colonizers, and merchants.

Although the location of the two intersections was not within the city walls at that time, due to their short distance, they happened to be between distant and close to Chongqing city. Therefore, at that time, many churches and even church schools were set up here and in the area around the current Shangqing Temple. The church is committed to developing its congregation and urgently hopes that more believers can participate in religious activities, which has led to a gradual increase in the flow of people around the Shangqing Temple at the intersection of the two roads.

The time when the two intersections truly entered the urban circle began in 1921. At that time, the Chongqing Commercial Port Supervisor Yang Sen mainly focused on the construction of Jiangbei New Area, supplemented by the renovation of Chongqing's main city, expanded the new urban area, withdrew from Jiangmen, and developed intercity transportation.

The two intersections, only a few miles away from the old Chongqing city, have also begun the path of urbanization. Although not achieved overnight, change has indeed occurred. The road at the intersection is no longer a stone walkway, with convenient transportation. Moreover, compared to the city center, the residence or workplace at the intersection is more spacious, and it gradually became the choice of many people at that time.

The first person to make this choice was the highest academic institution in eastern Sichuan at that time: Chuandong Normal School.

Picture of the former gate of Chuandong Normal University from the internet

This is the first formal teacher training institution officially established by the Qing government in Chongqing, and also the earliest modern school in Chongqing's history. After the Xinhai Revolution, there were frequent wars and conflicts, and schools had to migrate back and forth multiple times, which was unbearable. In 1930, Principal Gan Jiyong proposed selling the old school site and finding a new location to build a new school. With the approval of the school board, the site was chosen to purchase land in Shimagang outside the main city of Chongqing to construct a new school building. At the end of the year, the whole school moved in.

This Shimagang is now the location of the Cultural Palace.

The old photo of the gate of the Cultural Palace is from the "Centennial Shangqing Temple"

Photography of the entrance of the Cultural Palace/Photo provided by the Cultural and Tourism Commission of Pingfan Yuzhong District

Back in the day, this was a piece of farmland. Nowadays, the buildings that used to be there are no longer traceable. Behind the "Glorious List" of the Cultural Palace, there is a stone carving on the hillside that records the history of this school: Yang Angong, Zhang Wentian, Xiao Chunu, Tong Yongsheng, Qi Nanxun, Yang Bokai and others have taught at the school, and countless students have studied to save the country, rushing to the forefront of education with passion.

Guihuayuan Zhuangyuan Mansion Photography/Photo provided by Pu Degui Yuzhong District Cultural and Tourism Commission

In fact, 15 years earlier, the No. 12 Zhuangyuan Mansion in Guihua Garden, just a few steps away, welcomed a new school.

Guihuayuan was originally named after a hundred year old osmanthus tree that was over 10 meters tall, lush with branches and leaves, and had a fragrant aroma inside the Zhuangyuan Mansion. The ancient tree no longer exists, but under the red walls and green tiles, the three characters Zhuangyuan Mansion stand out prominently. The vermilion columns and exterior walls are arranged in a quadrangle courtyard layout. The Zhuangyuan Mansion consists of an entrance hall, a passage hall, a back hall, and wing rooms, with a depth of up to 45 meters, all of which are single eaved hanging mountain tops. According to the data from the Cultural Management Office of Yuzhong District, this is a mixed style building with three beams and a bucket, which is a typical architectural feature of eastern Sichuan.

The top scholar, surnamed Luo, was the only Sichuan born top scholar of the Qing Dynasty. The year he passed the imperial examination was at the time of the defeat in the First Sino Japanese War. In his palace examination essay, Luo Chengxiang's opening sentence is "I am deeply concerned about the humiliation of my subjects, and I will die for the humiliation of my subjects. This is the day when I will be so angry that I forget to eat!" This sentence refers to the heart of Emperor Guangxu, who appointed me as the top scholar in 1895. Merchant Luo Ang was very happy for his family. In 1911, he invested in the construction of the "Luo Chengxiang Zhuangyuan Mansion", so this area is also known as the Luo Family Garden.

This top scorer Luo is very modern. He opposed Yuan Shikai's proclamation as emperor and worked tirelessly to establish Sichuan University and Chengdu University. Moreover, he has a passion for martial arts and advocates for the concept of 'strengthening the country and cultivating strong breeds'.

In 1918, Chongqing United County High School moved here, where famous figures such as Zou Rong, Yang Cangbai, and Tang Junyi studied or taught.

The picture of Guihuayuan Zhuangyuan Mansion is from the internet

After the founding of the People's Republic of China, the preparatory office of the Southwest Museum was established in March 1950. In July of the following year, the Southwest Museum relocated to No. 160 Guihuayuan, which is the main courtyard of Luojia Garden, and built a cultural relics warehouse in the west of the courtyard. Since then, this place has been successively used by Chongqing Teacher Training School and Chongqing No.52 Middle School Cultural Units, and it is still the office address of Chongqing Education Science Research Institute to this day.

The cultural context of the two intersections, with a century old origin.


03 Two Crossroads on the Historical Stage

Yang Angong's portrait photography/photo provided by Zhou Yongfu Yuzhong District Cultural and Tourism Commission

After the tragedy, Yang Angong was pursued by the reactionary authorities. On April 4th, Yang Angong was arrested. The reactionary forces used all kinds of threats, temptations, and cruel torture against him, and in vain, they decided to execute him. Late on the night of April 6, Yang was taken to the execution ground of Fotu Pass. Before his death, Yang denounced the warlord and shouted, "Down with imperialism!" "Down with the warlord!" "Long live the CPC!" The warlord cut off his tongue, cut off his hand, gouged out his eyes, and finally fired three shots. He died before Fotu Pass in such a heroic way, only 29 years old.

War brings more external humiliation.

On September 18, 1931, the Sino Japanese War began, and on July 7, 1937, the Lugou Bridge Incident broke out, marking the full-scale outbreak of the Sino Japanese War. On November 20, 1937, the Nationalist Government issued the "Declaration to Move the Capital to Chongqing", and immediately Chongqing became the wartime capital.

Amidst the rolling smoke of war, the heroic spirit of the execution ground at Fotu Pass shone brilliantly throughout Chongqing.

At this moment, Lianglukou officially stepped onto the historical stage.

Photography of Baigu Pagoda in Fotuguan Park/Photo provided by the Cultural and Tourism Commission of Pingfan Yuzhong District

Many government agencies have requisitioned civilian houses for office use at two intersections. The Central Bureau of Statistics has had multiple temporary office locations in Chongqing, and finally converted the former library of Chuandong Normal University in the Cultural Palace into an office building. At that time, the Huangjue tree was already big and deeply rooted, with its roots seeping into the stone steps. The students were there, laughing and singing, and the greenery was moving. When Zhongtong was present, the deep green and silent tree, with lush branches and intricate connections, inexplicably carried a sense of strangeness and secrecy.

A maximum of ten minutes' walk from here, at No. 5 Xincun on the opposite side of the intersection, is the residence of Soong Ching ling and the former site of the Central Committee of the "Defending China Alliance".

Photography of Chongqing Soong Ching Ling Memorial Hall/Photo provided by the Cultural and Tourism Commission of Yuzhong District, Zhanjiang

Chongqing Soong Ching Ling Memorial Hall Photography by You Lick

In 1941, with the help of Song Ziwen, Song Qingling moved into this two-story courtyard at Lianglukou. The courtyard is generally simple, the rooms are not large, and some are appropriately exquisite. There were many spies outside the residence, but Soong Ching ling continued to keep in touch with the outside world, reporting the real situation of the Chinese people's resistance against Japan, seeking international assistance, actively organizing fundraising, providing relief to refugees, wounded soldiers, and children, organizing supplies, and transporting a large amount of funds, medicines, medical equipment, food supplies, and other relief materials to the people in the anti Japanese base areas under the leadership of the Communist Party of China through various channels.

Chongqing Soong Ching Ling Memorial Hall Photography by You Lick

In addition, Dai Li occupied and renovated the mansion next to the Loquat Mountain Park for training decryption personnel, and also hid the coquettish female star Hu Die; The "Yushe" specially built by Chongqing warlord Fan Shaozeng for the famous Sichuan military general Yang Sen still remains in the Youth Palace today; Teacher Liu Xiang's "Wang Yuan" is now known as the Red Chamber on Mount Loquat (yes, Teacher Liu Xiang is Wang Lingji)... The intersection of the two roads is a condensed version of history, gathering the winds and clouds for a time.

Photography of the Former Site of Yangsen Mansion/Photo provided by the Cultural and Tourism Commission of Yuzhong District, Zhanjiang

Photography of Wangyuan Site/Photo provided by Jiangpai Yuzhong District Cultural and Tourism Commission

At those two intersections, if you stood on the roadside and shouted "Master" or "Leader" in a low voice, two or three of the seven or eight people passing by would turn around and smile at you, while the other two or three would be wary and press down their hats, walking quickly away.


The Library in the 04 Bombing

From February 1938 to August 1943, the Japanese army launched a five and a half year crazy bombing campaign against Chongqing. The two intersections were not the center, but too close to the city. As people living in a peaceful era, it is difficult for us to imagine the brutality and grief of that time - on May 3 and May 4, 1939, under the bombing of the Japanese army, countless Chongqing citizens were killed or injured, known as the "May 3, May 4" bombing.

The pictures of the ruins after the Great Bombing are from "The Hundred Years of Shangqing Temple"

The two people in pain did not lie flat. The elderly recalled their parents' description that the plane had left, and everyone didn't cry or make a fuss. They quickly went to the ruins to search for things. Every nail had to be saved, and a few stones and broken walls could be used to rebuild a home. A few wildflowers could also be inserted into the cracks of the stones.

After the Japanese plane bombing, a family in Chongqing hurriedly had a meal. Picture from the internet

It's frightening that a city is like this. The bombing lasted for five and a half years, and everyone's resilience was surprisingly strong. In 1940, an enemy plane was even captured in the vicinity of Lianglukou and joyfully displayed in the South District Park for exhibition.

The pictures of the enemy planes captured are from the internet

At the two intersections during the bombing, there was also an artistic activity. Amidst the gunfire, the construction of the National Central Library branch arrived.

Photography of the former site of Roosevelt Library and Central Library/Photo provided by the Cultural and Tourism Commission of Pingfan Yuzhong District

This building is located at No. 11 Changjiang Road, with a construction area of approximately 2405 square meters. Inside the T-shaped building on the third floor and first floor, the space is spacious and the black wooden staircase is quaint and atmospheric. The slogan of "the stronger the explosion, the stronger it becomes" was a real action back then, an indomitable spirit that emerged from the air raid shelter and returned to the construction site.

The more explosive, the stronger "slogan photography/Photo provided by Zhang Songyu Central District Cultural and Tourism Commission

In 1941, the library opened, and when there were no bombings, people could read books, accompany their thoughts and stories in the smoke of gunpowder, and overcome difficulties together.

In 1943, Jin Yong sought refuge with the then director of the National Central Library branch, Jiang Futang (his cousin), and became a librarian through the back door. At that time, Jin Yong was assigned to the reading group, responsible for registering and returning books. He worked from 2pm to 10pm every day, which was very in line with the writer's schedule.

Photography of the former site of Roosevelt Library and Central Library/Photo provided by the Cultural and Tourism Commission of Pingfan Yuzhong District

Jin Yong's life as a librarian at Lianglukou is very comfortable, except for occasional trips to the air raid shelter, reading books is much more convenient. He later said to the famous Japanese writer Daisaku Ikeda, "While managing books in the library, I read a lot of books. I focused on reading a large number of Western literary works, some of which were in their original English versions. I prefer romantic novels from the 18th and 19th centuries in the West, such as Alexandre Dumas, Scott, Stevenson, and Hugo. These works are written passionately and vividly, but not subtly enough. As I grew older, I felt a bit superficial. Later, I turned to reading Greek tragedies and Dickens' novels. Among Russian writers, I like Turgenev and read translations by Lu Li and Lini

Photography of the former site of Roosevelt Library and Central Library/Photo provided by the Cultural and Tourism Commission of Pingfan Yuzhong District

The work in the smoke of war could not last long, and in 1945, Jin Yong submitted his resignation. The library at Lianglukou, built during the war, was later renamed the Roosevelt Library and became one of only five national libraries in the country. Afterwards, one of the main features of the library's collection was the collection of anti Japanese version books.


Multiple unique skydiving towers in 05

In the same era, in response to Japanese air raids, Chongqing began construction of military airports such as Jiulongpo Airport and Baishiyi Airport. Therefore, training pilots became a top priority, and skydiving was included in the training plan.

In October 1941, the skydiving tower began construction at Lianglukou, and in 1942, the skydiving tower was completed at Lianglukou.

The literature and images of the skydiving tower are from the "Centennial Shangqing Temple"

The skydiving tower is 38 meters tall and has a jumping distance of 28 meters, which is approximately equivalent to the height of a ten story building today. It was considered a super tall building back then. The bottom diameter is 3.35 meters, and the top diameter is 1.52 meters. At that time, there were three umbrella rings on the tower, which could be lifted up and down by machinery. The team members slowly rose through the tower rings under the tower, and when they reached the top of the tower, they would automatically detach by touching the mechanism umbrella bag. The conical brick tower is equipped with a spiral staircase leading to the central platform, with a symmetrical and handsome proportion, a neat structure, and an architectural language that remains popular to this day. It is the only work left by architect Yang Tingbao in Chongqing.

At that time, the highest achiever of architectural masters was also known as "Nan Yang Bei Liang". Bei Liang was Liang Sicheng, and Nan Yang was Yang Tingbao. Since the 1920s, Yang Tingbao's designs for the Beijing Bank of Communications, Nanjing Zhongshan Mausoleum Music Platform, Purple Mountain Observatory, and the expanded Tsinghua University Library have all become masterpieces in the history of Chinese architecture. After the founding of the People's Republic of China, Yang Tingbao participated in the design of over a hundred projects, including the Monument to the People's Heroes, the Great Hall of the People, Beijing Railway Station, the Mao Zedong Memorial Hall, and the Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge.

On the day of the launch of the skydiving tower after its completion, social figures from all walks of life, including Zhang Zhizhong and Bai Chongxi, gathered below the tower to attend the completion ceremony. After the speech by the chairman of the conference, Chen Lifu, he first climbed onto the skydiving tower and opened the tower door. Looking back, he waved his arms and shouted, "The tower door has already been opened. Please let the youth of the whole country go up!" The whole audience burst into thunderous applause, and cheers echoed through the sky.

According to the Dagong Evening News, on August 14, 1942, the first parachute jumping competition was held in Chongqing, which sparked a craze for skydiving. From 1942 to 1946, nearly 80000 people participated in skydiving at Lianglukou. At that time, almost all members of the Air Force had received parachute training here. The air raids were intense, and parachute jumping could potentially save one's life.

How many pilots who have jumped from skydiving towers have become heroes in aerial combat? Unable to verify and unable to inquire in detail. A history of blood and tears, shaking the hearts of future generations.

Photography of Two Intersection Parachute Tower/Yulike

In the 1970s, middle school students in Yuzhong District had memories of visiting skydiving towers. At that time, skydiving towers were used to train skydivers, and students envied them all. The earliest journey about the blue sky at the intersection of the two roads was almost three generations in the skydiving tower.


International friends in 06 International Village

During the Anti Japanese War, Chongqing was not only the wartime capital of China, but also the Far East Command Center of the World Anti Fascist War. Therefore, embassies and diplomatic institutions from all over the world also gather in Chongqing.

The Lianglukou International Village is a gathering place for foreign embassies, consulates, and diplomatic institutions.

At that time, the International Village was connected to the Yangtze River Road on one side (near E Ling) and the Health Road on the other side (at two intersections), becoming an important passage for international friends to travel back and forth in the mountain city, which was only natural. The former sites of the British Naval Club, the American Correspondents' Building, and the Stone Fortress record the history of Chongqing's foreign exchanges.

The British Naval Club is located on the slope of Coffin Hill and is a European style villa built facing south. During the Anti Japanese War, it received many important political figures; The American Press Building is a gray American style western-style building with a history of over 80 years. Each floor has three rooms, and the second and third floors have staircases and corridors. There is also a small balcony to the east, which was once the residence of a large number of American journalists; The stone bunker is the location of the former air defense shelter, a reinforced concrete structure that overlooks the Yangtze River and is equipped with machine gun ports and drainage ditches. There were originally 5 buildings, arranged in a plum blossom shape, known as the "Plum Blossom Fortress". After liberation, all four bunkers were dismantled, leaving only this one.

International Village Stone Fortress Site Photography/Photo provided by Chen Bing, Yuzhong District Cultural and Tourism Commission

The Soviet embassy was also located at a crossroads. The small building with a Baroque style brick, stone, and wood structure located at No. 104 Zhengjie, loquat mountain, was first built in 1936. It features a collection of European architectural symbols such as an external corridor, terrace, pavilion, arched windows, Roman columns, stone carvings, and sloping roof.

Internal Photography of the Former Soviet Embassy/Photo provided by Jiang Tingju, Cultural and Tourism Commission of Yuzhong District

In fact, this was originally a mansion built by General Zeng Ziwei of the Sichuan Army at a huge cost on Mount Loquat. After its completion in January 1938, it was not occupied and was instead given to the Soviet Embassy, with the country's name first and personal interests second. The New People's Daily once praised this building and praised it as "backed by Mount Loquat, facing the beautiful mountains to the south, leaning against Buddha to the west, and hearing the waves of the two rivers to the east", calling it the "Wonderland of Chongqing".


epilogue

The farewell pavilion was once so elegant and peaceful

The library amidst the gunfire tells the story of arduous and indomitable progress

Time flies, time passes by

At that time, the sea was vast, and now the mulberry fields

The old sites are all here, and all the old things have passed


reference:

Map of Historical Buildings in Chongqing "" Chongqing Past: Memories of a Jewish Person's Late Years "

Chongqing Planning and Natural Resources Yearbook (2020 Edition)

Research on the Historical Expansion and Evolution of Chongqing's Main Urban Space

Chongqing Folk Houses "and" Chongqing Old Alley "


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