Kunming, the spring City| There are beautiful flowers and carved beams and painted buildings. Whenever you want to come, it is a good time

There are too many legends about Yunnan. Some come from word of mouth from friends, rumors on the Internet, and some come from novels and movies and TV dramas. In short, too many legends make people dazzle and even have stereotypes. Before this trip, my impression of Dali and Lijiang was still bars and romantic encounters, while Kunming was just a "flower market" that was convenient to pass through.

When I saw that the ticket from Shenzhen to Kunming only cost 120 yuan, I immediately prepared the trip. I wanted to visit this city that I had just passed through last time. When traveling during extraordinary times, all health codes had to be carefully studied and filled in carefully. Travel instructions will be attached. Even if the epidemic has passed, these "troubles" during the journey can be regarded as a special experience.

Kunming, known as the "Spring City", has a truly good climate and is very livable. When I booked a B & B, I found that many residential houses did not have air conditioning! In fact, not many people in most cities in Yunnan use air conditioners. The temperature difference between day and night in plateau areas is large. Even if you travel short-sleeved during the day, you still need to cover a large quilt to fall asleep at night. What is enviable is that the seasons here are like spring all year round, and it is sunny almost every day. Different flowers bloom every time. Whenever you want to come, it is a good time.

I used to think Kunming was a modern metropolis that led and managed complex ethnic minority areas. In fact, Kunming is also an ancient cultural capital with a profound history. As early as 30,000 years ago, humans lived and multiplied around Dianchi Lake. The Dian Kingdom was born in 278 BC, and it has a history of thousands of years.

Today, Dianchi Lake has become an urban park on the outskirts of Kunming. Many Kunming citizens come here with their families for leisure and vacation, feeding pigeons and flying kites with their children, spreading a cloth on the grass, and setting up a tent to share a picnic with family and friends. In addition to the one-hour cruise ship with a ticket price of nearly 100 yuan and the 20-piece glass trestle with a walk, there are many interesting entertainment projects in Haigeng Park on the edge of Dianchi Lake ~

Most of the red-billed gulls that flew from Siberia to winter in winter have already returned, but it still feels very pleasant to stand by the stormy waves of Dianchi Lake and overlook the Western Hills. There is a beautiful legend about the formation of Dianchi Lake:

A young hunter went through countless hardships to find water sources and came to the East China Sea. He happened to save the Third Princess of the Dragon King of the East China Sea. The Dragon King wanted to recruit him as a son-in-law, so he turned him into a little yellow dragon. However, the hunter could not let go of his longing for his wife in his hometown. After drinking enough water from the East China Sea, he quietly flew back to Kunming, but his wife had already passed away due to excessive longing and turned into Sleeping Beauty Mountain. The hunter was devastated. After spitting out water from the East China Sea and forming Dianchi Lake, he hit the mountain and died. From then on, Kunming, which was originally barren, became rich and beautiful because the water from Dianchi Lake nurtured all things.

In ancient times, cities and civilizations developed around water sources. There were many water systems in Kunming's Urban area. The winding Panlong River flowed into Dianchi Lake, and Guandu Ancient Town with rich cultural landscapes was also near Dianchi Lake. Guandu, formerly known as "Wodong", was once a fishing village with mountains of screw shells. Later, it became a treasure place where dignitaries built palaces and villas and visited by celebrities and sages.

Guandu Ancient Town, which has flourished since the Tang and Song Dynasties, is a famous historical and cultural monument in Kunming. When I first arrived, I felt that there were many temples here, including Tuzhu Temple in the Tang Dynasty, Fusheng Temple in the Song Dynasty, Miaozhan Temple in the Yuan Dynasty, and even Shaolin Temple! Although there are not many tourists on the Main Street and Bar Street, there are already girls dressed in ancient costumes taking pictures in front of temples and monuments, and many shops have also opened for business.

Many Kunming delicacies are marked with the LOGO of "Guandu", which shows that Guandu had a far-reaching influence on the entire ancient city of Kunming at that time. On the recommendation of a friend, I tried the Li family's Maiba cake and realized that it tasted like this. In addition, there are also many places where intangible cultural heritage is taught, such as "Yunnan Go","Wutong Walking Silver","Guandu Bail Block" and "Yunnan Opera Lantern"... It is worth visiting such a cultural place slowly and learning a lot.

In addition to Guandu, which is far from the city center, there are also several "old streets" in Kunming's urban area, near several emerging centralized commercial streets. Almost every city has at least one old street, but some have been planned and the buildings have become brand new and tidy, while some have become "ancient town model", with lively bars and cafes, and almost all selling the same thing. A specialty street.

But it feels good to stroll around the old streets of Kunming. There are no new houses here that make people suspicious of historical heritage. The dilapidated mottled feeling is beautiful. There are no one-size-fits-all mango barbecue and French fries. Maybe the local snacks in Yunnan are already attractive enough! I sincerely believe that Kunming's literature and art are not faked, but are deeply engraved in my bones.

Nanqiang Pedestrian Street is a relatively well-preserved ancient district in the center of Kunming City. The buildings are mainly old houses from the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China. You can find representative buildings such as "one seal, three squares and one light wall, four horse carts, four in one patio, four in five patio, and six contract spring". Nowadays, many literary and art shops have entered this district, which means a cultural and creative park when shopping.

If you don't want to go to Dianchi Lake and just want to take a walk in the city, Cuihu Park is definitely a good choice! There are red-billed gulls similar to Dianchi Lake, as well as trees full of flowers and fresh bamboo forests. Moreover, there are fewer tourists than Dianchi Lake, and there are not so many commercial entertainment projects. Just walking around casually is already very pleasant.

What surprised me was that although Yunnan is thousands of kilometers away from Beijing, the styles of ancient buildings are almost the same. While wandering in Cuihu Park, I had the illusion that I had accidentally entered the royal garden. The exquisite carved beams and painted buildings, the magnificent glazed tiles and red brick walls all highlighted the wealth of this southwestern border land and its very traditional cultural inheritance.

There are many celebrities who have come from Kunming, including Zheng He, who has gone to the West seven times and traveled to 39 countries, and Nie Er, the people's musician who wrote the national anthem for us... While attaching importance to education, due to the large number of ethnic minorities, there are diverse folk customs. Wonderful, Yunnan's tolerance of various cultures is indeed beyond the reach of other provinces, so don't be surprised to see anything here. The architectural styles on the ancient streets are all-encompassing, sometimes traditional, sometimes exotic. The food can be salty or sweet, and the taste can be heavy or light. No matter where you come from, you can always find the one you like.

Before leaving Kunming, I returned to the Jinma Biji Workshop where I had visited last time. The unique feature of Jinma Biji Square, a well-known scenic spot in Kunming, is that at a certain time, a strange scene of "golden and green" will appear. However, the current "Golden Horse" and "Green Chicken" are no longer as glorious as they were in the past. They are surrounded by reinforced concrete forests and have become city squares where tourists stop to take photos and check in.

The "ideal country" of the unemployed, the "paradise" written by Jin Yong, those stories are happening

Everyone has a dream of "facing the sea and blooming flowers in warm spring"

How many people went to Dali because they read Jin Yong's novels

The mountains and rivers of Dali and the past and present lives of Nanzhao Kingdom all bloom with unique brilliance under Mr. Jin Yong's works. I still remember the stories of "the evil of the east and the evil of the west, the evil of the south and the beggar of the north". The world created by martial arts novels is wonderful and extraordinary, and the Dali I saw with my own eyes is no less inferior. Many people may think that Dali is just a small city in the southwest border, but has been pushed to the forefront by various Internet celebrity photos. In fact, Dali has a long history and is one of the earliest cultural birthplaces in Yunnan. Since the 4th century AD, the Bai people have been here. The Nanzhao State of the Tang Dynasty flourished, and the subsequent Dali State (also Duan Yu's country) ruled the area for more than 300 years.

As a mysterious border "ideal country", Dali is also a hot spot for Xianxia dramas and games. For example, Zhao Ling 'er in "The Legend of the Sword and Fairy" is the princess of Nanzhao Kingdom. Now that I look back and look at her clothing design, I see that it really has a bit of an exotic ethnic style.

This southwest "border city" is actually quite rich

Because Yunnan produces tea, Dali must become an important stop on the ancient tea-horse road. Looking back at history, the ancient city of Dali has been very rich for a long time. Unlike those "Internet celebrity ancient towns" that were deliberately preserved to serve tourists, the ancient city of Dali is indeed the paradise with mountains, water and people in Qiongyao Opera. In fact, you can see whether you are rich or not by looking at the traditional folk houses of the Bai people. Outside the blue tiles and white walls, the gable corners of the houses are decorated with ink and wash patterns. The Zhaobi walls with ancestral instructions written on them are more stylish than each other. The main house generally sits west and east. The rooms are spacious and comfortable, every family is running water, and every household grows flowers... No wonder people say that Dali is livable. The Bai people with such a "loving home" mentality manage it carefully as always, which is naturally fascinating.

Due to the epidemic, the originally lively ancient city has quieted down, which has made it easier for foreigners from afar to understand what the ancient city really looks like. Although we can find some "everyone knows" online celebrity brand shops and many bars and coffee bars on the commercial street, there are really many local residents living here, including hospitals, supermarkets, primary and secondary schools and kindergartens. Many tourists may find the undeveloped areas of the ancient city "a little boring", but I prefer these corners where "tourists rarely visit". After all, this is the real Dali. The ancient city that I don't want to live well to be over-developed and has become a tourist attraction where tourists can continue to drink and have fun in another place.

A paradise to satisfy the illusions of the unemployed

The last time I made a trip to Yunnan, I specially skipped Dali because I was afraid that it would be too literary and full of unrealistic illusions, and that it would really be a "utopia" that would not be touched by the fireworks of the world, as depicted in the Wenqing characters. But when I really mustered up the courage to go to Dali, I found that I had overthought it. Dali was not so "good" or so "bad". Dali is indeed very literary and artistic, but it is also very down-to-earth. Whether it is for rebirth or escape, she has received many creative "aspiring young people". Most of them come from big cities with great pressure in life and work. When they arrived in Dali, they only knew what real life was. From then on, they fell in love with Cangshan and Erhai, and resolutely resigned and started a business in Dali.

There are many similar stories. Dali, which strives to develop tourism, has given them enough space and opportunities. Under Tina's guidance, I came to the Cultural and Creative Park transformed from Dali Bed Sheet Factory. I saw advertisements for X Tour and the "Dolphin Ade Bookstore" that reminded me of Seagull Bookstore in Tokyo, Japan. The promotional words on those posters are very eye-catching,"Life can be cooler, start in another way" and "Everyone has a dream in their hearts"... Including the works of those craftsmen, many designs and brands make people feel very "advanced", perhaps the bright sunshine and fresh air in Dali have given these so-called "unemployed" endless inspiration for life and creation.

Most of the people who started businesses in Dali are not real "businessmen". They all feel proud when communicating. Many people invest regardless of cost, really just to realize a dream. For example, my old friend "Princess" I have known for a long time. She and her artist husband sold their house in Xiamen, quit their stable job, and run B & Bs in Dali for many years. Now they have developed an original brand that is both practical and beautiful.

There is also a new friend I just met this time, the owner of Yueshan Yiju Pastoral B & B. She comes from Guangdong and has a relationship with her husband because of a gap year trip. She runs this house in Dali, which combines wood style and Bai characteristics, and feels like a family home. Most of the B & B rooms are suites with living rooms. Outside the open floor-to-ceiling window, in addition to the green rice fields and vegetable gardens, there is the beautiful scenery of the vast Cangshan Mountain and the ancient city. Their home also has a uniquely designed "starry sky room". By pulling the roof curtain at night, you can directly watch the moon and watch the stars. Although the location is still a short distance away from the ancient city, it is definitely a high-quality B & B that integrates Dali's "wind, flowers, snow and moon"~

Welcome and send, cultural tolerance of tea and flowers

Dali is so attractive to foreigners mainly because of its inclusiveness of "being tolerant is big". Many people think that ethnic minority areas will reject other cultures when they enter, but I am really surprised by Dali's "almost non-selective" absorption of local cultures. While visiting the ancient city, I inexplicably felt that the Bai folk houses and waterways in the ancient city were somewhat similar to those in Huizhou in the south of the Yangtze River. They all had the same high-walled courtyards, carved beams and painted buildings, and small bridges and flowing water.

At the "Ru Ru" coffee shop in the ancient city, after a sip of "osmanthus wine", I realized that the "combination of Chinese and Western" he drank was so well integrated. Not to mention the mosques and Catholic churches built in prominent locations on the main street, which represent the ancient city's long-term acceptance and tolerance of foreign culture.

It is said that whenever foreign guests come to their door, enthusiastic Bai people will prepare tea. Dali's flowers are not just for viewing. Many locals use flowers as ingredients to cook delicious food limited by the seasons.

Dali's delicacies are mostly drawn from fresh raw materials from the mountains and fields, adding ideas with local characteristics, turning milk into "milk fans", turning local unique "cauliflower" into "water poplar flowers", and seasonal wild mushroom fried rice, as well as beef and roast duck, have been adjusted according to actual conditions and customers 'needs, and taste fresh, crispy but not greasy. This time, I followed Tina into the private restaurants in the streets and alleys and tasted the unique Dali specialty food.

Happiness is having something to do, someone to love, and hope

It is love and thinking about life

Cangshan Light Hiking| Travel for 20 kilometers, travel around the top of Cangshan Mountain and enjoy the scenery, flowers, snow and moon together

When you arrive in Dali, you must understand the "wind, flowers, snow and moon". It is not a love or romantic encounter that you travel thousands of miles to pursue, but the real landscape of Dali, the wind at Xiaguan, the flowers at Shangguan, the snow at Cangshan, and the moon at Erhai. I have always heard people talk about Erhai Lake in all kinds of accents, and they are not literary and artistic, but few people mention a trip to Cangshan Mountain. In fact, visiting Cangshan Mountain is no worse than surrounding the Erhai Lake!

This time I stayed at the Dali Shili Hilton Hotel at the foot of Cangshan Mountain. They very kindly provided guests with options for sightseeing around the country. One of them was the "light hiking" to travel around Cangshan Mountain. The quotation marks were added because for people like me who have not exercised for a long time, the nearly 20-kilometer mountain climbing + hiking is a bit difficult, but people with good physical fitness may think it is just a small case. The huge Cangshan Mountain does welcome everyone to challenge ~ It is said that climbing wild is more exciting.

We started from Gantong Temple near the hotel. The temple has a long history and an excellent location. It is just near the mountain gate. This temple, which is temporarily closed to the public due to the epidemic, is still home to some pilgrims. There are flowers and smoke curling from the kitchen. Further up is Jizhao Nunan, whose vegetarian dishes are famous far and wide. In addition to believing in the original owner of the village, most of the local Bai residents are also devout believers in Buddhism, and temples and nuns are full of incense.

Jin Yong mentioned the "Exquisite Chess" in "Eight Parts of the Dragon". There is indeed such a game of chess in Cangshan. Although Go was changed to chess to take care of the visual effects, the shape of Qiao Feng, Duan Yu, and Xu Zhu playing chess can also fulfill the dreams of martial arts fans. I don't know if it is to make up for the shortcomings, but there are many trees planted by Go masters next to the chess game. Now the trees have become a forest, which has also fulfilled the dreams of Go fans. When I first read it, I was a little confused. It was not until I discovered the exquisite chess game in front of me that I immediately realized that I had still read less books...

Cangshan has 19 peaks and 18 streams, which means that there must be a stream pouring down between the two peaks. Being able to drink the pure and clear Cangshan water is something that Dali people are proud of. The one ranking first among these streams is Qingbixi, which is also one of the main attractions on Cangshan Yudai Road. If you only visit the scenic spots below Qingbi River without having to buy tickets, it is probably to take care of local pilgrims who are just here to pay homage to Buddha, which also confirms the important position of Qingbi River.

When a stream flows through, you can see the suspension bridge. There are both the simple immortal ferry and the suspension bridge covered with blessing ribbons and love locks that span the Qingbi River. Perhaps because there are a lot fewer tourists, the Internet celebrity check-in points that originally had charging signs are no longer supervised and can take photos at will ~ So you must seize the right opportunity to say something and play ~~

The hotel has prepared a nutritious lunch for guests participating in the light hiking experience, so that everyone can replenish energy in time. It is very considerate! Dali Hilton Hotel is indeed the best Hilton I have ever stayed in. The hotel is backed by Cangshan Mountain, faces the Erhai Lake, and is close to the ancient city and Dali University. It has a superior location. The room has many distinctive decoration details, fully equipped, and the bedding is soft and comfortable! You can see the wonderful sunrise directly from the balcony in the morning ~

Due to its location in a resort, the hotel has strong leisure attributes. It not only provides guests with tours around the area, but also prepares experience packages for parent-child guests, including cooking courses for Bai specialty snacks and local handicrafts making experience. Even if you don't leave the hotel all day, it's so exciting that you can't stop. There are a wide variety of delicacies in the restaurant, and you can taste different "Chef Recommended" dishes every season, ensuring that you will be surprised every time you come!

Learning to make "thin soy flour" from the chef, this is the first time I have tasted such a special snack ~ I still have to have a local guide to eat it authentic!

Dali is sunny for more than 300 days a year. With the nourishment of the bright sunshine, there are so many flowers and magical animals and plants in full bloom on Cangshan Mountain! As we strolled along the jade belt cloud road, we finally breathed a sigh of relief and began to carefully observe the details around us along the way. The handsome guide Thomas introduced us to many special-looking plants. The whole mountain is like an active encyclopedia of flora and fauna. Traveling thousands of miles is really much more impressive than reading thousands of books.

In addition, Cangshan is also an encyclopedia of geology. More than 2 billion years of precipitation have made the landform here diverse and precious, which is worth studying. After all, it is well known to everyone that the "marble" widely used in decoration and artistic carving does come from Dali. While traveling around, you can overlook the panoramic view of Dali's ancient city and new city. The scenery at the high places is really beautiful, but it's really too long since I climbed the mountain so seriously...

In fact, the Cangshan Scenic Area is very reasonable in design, giving the choice of climbing or not climbing. Multiple cable cars connect the main attractions in series. Although the Yudai Road with open landscape is a highland with an altitude of 2600 meters, it is all flat land and does not need to go through the "enjoyment" of going up and down, making it easy to get tired when walking. There will be beautiful pavilions every other section of the way for tourists to rest, and they are very thoughtful.

The end of our "light hike" is Zhonghe Temple. Unlike Gantong Temple, this is a Taoist temple dedicated to the Jade Emperor. The Zhonghe cableway down the mountain from here is very distinctive. There is no annoying glass cover to isolate you from nature. The 360-degree viewing angle is convenient for taking photos. It just looks a bit thrilling. Fortunately, the cable car is not too far from the ground, and the actual ride is not So scary, highly recommended! The fare is not expensive and it is a very good experience!

Happiness is that there are mountains, seas, and people smoke

Is to join hands with you, spring is warm and flowers bloom

Tour Erhai| Throw away those sick-free words and get to know Erhai Lake again

Every time I see those sad words that often involve emotions and dreams, I always feel very unreal. People with fragile souls will see the world wherever they escape. In the same place, there are thousands of people and thousands of faces. In my eyes, Dali has no ladders, no rainbow bridges, no glass balls, no colorful glass bottles and long tables. The real Dali is rich and interesting enough, and there is no need to embellish it.

Dali is a very mature travel destination. It has a very accurate grasp of tourists who like to check in to take photos. There are arranged Internet celebrity shooting spots everywhere, and people who come to take photos are charged a certain fee. These landscapes are actually available everywhere. As long as the background is rivers, lakes and seas, and if you encounter good weather, you can take good pictures. It was a waste to travel all the way to Dali just to use the beautiful Erhai Lake as the background of the photo.

I have always been very interested in folk customs and religion. Since I have come to the Bai Autonomous Prefecture, I must get to know the unique customs and customs here. Since ancient times, the Bai people have lived around the Erhai Lake. Among them, Xizhou Ancient Town has left many traditional Bai buildings and has become one of the must-visit attractions around the Erhai Lake. We started walking around at Zhengyi Gate. In fact, if we don't say that this is a Bai village, at first glance, it really looks like a small town in the south of the Yangtze River.

Under Tina's persuasion, I tried Xizhou's roasted bait nuggets. The shape is somewhat similar to that of milk fans, but the taste is very different. I like the cute look of the bait nuggets when roasted. The locals have too many cooking methods for rice products such as bait nuggets, bait silk, etc., and they won't be the same for several days.

There are several large family courtyards in Xizhou Ancient Town, all of which were built by the leading wealthy businessmen of the time. Among them, the Yan Family Courtyard, built in 1907, has now become a fee-paying attraction for tourists to visit. There are also many black and white historical photos posted on the walls around the central square of the town, which are precious memories of this ancient town from liberation to development.

This former Internet celebrity attraction seemed particularly peaceful after the epidemic. Only a few shops on both sides of the main street opened their doors. Compared with the ancient city of Dali, the shops here have a more unique personality. You can't find souvenirs from the rotten streets. Instead, there are many original design shops that have no branches outside the country.

"Xiaojiizai", which is full of intangible cultural heritage Bai Jia Ma and wool felt products, is such a store. There are only 3 stores in Xizhou, but there is no online store. It also advocates experiential management. Come here to taste tea and drink coffee, learn from teachers how to print prints, and take home those Jia Ma hidden in various Bai villages and full of blessings and meaning.

Although the rapeseed flowers have borne fruit, the large fields and the red walls in the distance are still a beautiful picture. Dali Pessoa Pastoral Coffee is facing the vast green fields. The unobstructed landscape coupled with excellent quality drinks has become a must-check Internet coffee shop for everyone when they come to Xizhou.

Due to the sharp drop in tourists, it is said that there is no one in the Internet celebrity attractions that require long queues every time you take photos. You can take pictures until you are satisfied. It seems that the colorful carriages running through the streets can only be operated at a reduced price. Although some residential houses in the ancient town have been transformed into B & Bs, there are still many local residents living in Xizhou. Seeing the aunts carrying baskets to buy and sell vegetables walking out of the street, a strong atmosphere of life comes to your face.

Many tourists choose to stay in Seaview B & B when they come to Dali. The most popular thing on the Internet platform is Shuanglang. There are many choices and the photos are all beautiful. However, when I arrived in Shuanglang Ancient Town, I found that there was a very big gap between ideals and reality. Just like some "stories" written by Wen Qing, when the lie is extremely beautiful, even he himself believes it. Most of the densely packed houses in the ancient town are B & Bs with small activity spaces. Except for the few in the outer areas, most of the "sea view B & Bs" can only stand on the roof and overlook the "sea"...

If you want to live by the Erhai Lake, you can actually have more choices. For example, Dali International Hotel is located in the urban area. It is only a 10-minute drive from the railway station. Although it is in a busy area, it is very secluded and quiet. You can enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Erhai Lake through the floor-to-ceiling windows of the room. The suite also provides binoculars, and the scenery is no less than those "sea view inns". The hotel has complete facilities and a low-key and luxurious overall design. It is mainly based on the Bai local style and is suitable for both business and vacation. Even during the epidemic period, the special meals are very rich, and you can feel the strong ethnic customs of Dali ~

Nowadays, environmental protection in the Erhai Lake is the first priority, and many areas are no longer open to tourists, but the scenery we can go to is not bad. Basically, the sea and sky are the same color, and the water is so blue that people can catch small fish on the shore. Instruments and facilities to purify water can be seen everywhere.

Hearing Yang Xing talk about March Street, every year from March 15th to March 21st of the lunar calendar is a big day for the Bai people to celebrate happily! Unfortunately, I couldn't participate in this grand festival in person this year, but I have always been very curious about the beliefs of the local Bai people. I saw the Bai people taking a small boat to Xiaoputuo to pay homage to the owners in the village. I also want to visit the owners in different villages.

Thomas took us past Nancun, a new socialist countryside full of hand-painted graffiti. The journey was full of surprises. Finally, we found that their main temple was located in the village committee. Even the courtyard wall next to the temple is covered with legends about the owner. In fact, the owner of the Bai people is the protector of the village. The owner temple is very similar to our "ancestral temple", except that in addition to worshipping ancestors, the temple also worships many gods.

Erhai Lake contains many stories, not the same disappointment in career and love, but the magical legends about the black celestial god, the golden mushroom goddess, and the snowy mountain prince... Those beautiful blessings that have been gathered for thousands of years have made guests in the distance more appreciate this optimistic nation, know how to be grateful, and learn to be in awe, so that they can truly understand what a happy life is.

Happiness is hope, blessing, love

It's the way you prayed sincerely for me.