[ a feast with crabs]

crab feast

Distant things,

It usually sounds more interesting than it actually is,

But the "banquet" is just the opposite.

Most taste better than they sound,

Much more boring.

It was like a long symphony,

Even if you eat and fall asleep, it's too noisy.

But the crab feast I had not long ago,

But different.

Japanese tea Zen Hua is the benchmark for overseas crab cuisine in my heart, and the reason why they are successful is that they have broken away from the (boring) simplicity,(rigid) purity and (old) traditions of traditional food and food, and have embarked on an interesting path, drawing heavily on the aesthetic elements of Chinese crabs and made their own sublimation. In China, there is a treasure crab restaurant that uses Chinese crab aesthetics to interpret Japanese and Korean ingredients. The name of this restaurant is "Crab Road". The heartless son (crab) is the most passionate, but the crab way can solve all customs.

"What I want to make is Oriental cuisine, using good ingredients and combining the taste and taste of China, Japan and South Korea cuisine." Beautiful boss Lu Qing said. I breathed a sigh of relief. Oh, this time I can finally have a different crab feast!

I personally think that this year's high-end catering has encountered unprecedented bottlenecks. It's not that it's bad, it's that everyone is too good. When diners eat, they have everything except that there are no touching "ups and downs", which is what we often call aesthetic fatigue.

Speaking of crab banquets, let me list the unups and downs of the "advanced" feelings of China, Japan and South Korea:

Chinese food and cold dishes often mean that hairy crabs are drunk when they are cooked or raw. In fact, it is the difference between killing first and then raping and first raping and then killing. The climax of Chinese crab banquets is often the crab removal performance, which is a crushing stone on the chest on the dining table. When removing the crabs, the chefs explained the hard-won nature of crab meal and bald butter (mainly crab paste and yellow), and the subsequent changes were poured, poured, and boiled... Almost as a seasoning. I have also seen rough ones. Each person starts with an average of three crabs, and all sea and lake crabs are served. Often, well-known top-level production areas such as Yangcheng Lake and Sanmen make people eat them until they have nothing to love for.

The Japanese crab feast is mainly pine leaf crabs, king crabs and red-haired crabs. The basic "crab dao music" routine is used. Cold crab legs will cool the Chinese people's stomachs after eating them. Korean crab cuisine loves pickled crabs in soy sauce. Russian pine leaf crabs and cod farm crabs are the best to eat raw. Behind it is who can cut faster than scissors and who can pile up the crab shells higher.

Lu Qing said: "Our crab feast has no standard movements. We have no limitations on the types of crabs. We even have coconut crabs and emperor crabs. We have no limitations on how to eat them. We are doing things in all three countries."

"In addition to the different methods of crabs and crabs, we also cook other dishes that satisfy the taste buds. Because of the wide audience, we are constantly learning." Lu Qing said.

"Ups and downs" is a psychological feeling. A song has no ups and downs and cannot be melodic. Both noise and decadent sound can be considered to be without ups and downs. Good catering is important in the same vein, but it should not be as stiff as dead crab legs. Lu Qing concluded: "Chinese people like enrichment and change."

When making food and beverage, profit comes first, and top students from merchants who "copy homework" are becoming more and more skilled. Even the recommendations of various high-end catering Internet platforms have become so similar. Therefore, it is not uncommon for low-level top students to copy answers and high-level top students to copy rules. The remaining top students, those with "chivalry", are regarded as immature money-burning players. Good friend Dao Dao said that it is normal to invest 10,000 yuan per square meter in high-end Chinese food. Now, like Lu Qing, she has nearly 20,000 yuan per square meter and more than 19 million yuan per single store. She is indeed courageous. Lu Qing confidently replied: "If you compare high-end Japanese materials, we belong to the 'alternative' with relatively low investment. "Nowadays, high-end daily food stores often have a customer order of 3000 yuan, but in the" Crab Road ", the average consumption is only 1000 yuan. The reason why customers pay is that they can get satisfaction far beyond expectations here.

Walking into the Guangzhou store of "Crab Road", careful diners will stare at the four-season flowers outside the window, crape myrtle, Chinese tallow, wisteria... The colorful scenes linger, and the courtyard design was made by the master teacher Xie Minmin. On the second floor, the spectacular intertwined crab and thread is a masterpiece by the famous Japanese artist Chiharu Itanoshi. The handle of the door of the box is a beautiful red agate lamp. It reminds people of the red line in front of me just now. I think it is an echo and an infinite extension of beauty and imagination. I think this is also Lu Qing's own cooking concept.

At this time, I can't wait to taste the ultimate cultural banquet produced by [One Big Mouth] at this best crab restaurant in China.

[Crab Knowing Autumn] Crab Tasting Dinner

The banquet was placed on a round table that Chinese people felt most relaxed and comfortable. An area similar to teppanyaki was exquisitely designed in the corner of the table. It was covered with a exquisitely designed wooden cover. When opened, it would be "blanched" on the spot. As a menu folded into crabs slowly unfolded, the Japanese Queen Nina grapes were sweetly served, and the "starter dish" had made the guests and friends eat it as if they were in no one's land. Teacher Xiao Kuan, the founder of a big mouth, reminded faintly: Pay attention, the starter has not been served yet.

Firefly squid sweet bean kernels| Fushanwan White Shrimp| Hazelnut foie liver with Japanese biscuits| Kochi pomelo vinegar flavored jellyfish| Tomato pine leaf crab| roasted mullet roe with wine cake| Passion fruit and papaya stain| boiled abalone and green pomelo at low temperature

Only then did everyone suddenly look up. The starter contains all-encompassing tastes: fluorescent squid is spicy and abalone is sour; jellyfish is fresh and crisp, and papaya is sour and crisp; white shrimp is thin and crisp with fresh sweetness, and mullet roe is thick and crisp with salty taste. Four-color tomato pine leaf crab is the idea of Korean crab cuisine. Master Wang Yong's creative hazelnut foie gras with Japanese biscuits is impressive, giving the Japanese Gillette and beef sandwich a new aesthetic taste. From enjoying the happiness of beef grease to switching between hazelnut and foie liver, I took a bite and felt the pure fragrance of just measure. The sweet crispy cookies added another level of happiness and a feeling of a match made in heaven.

Pierre Peters Cuvee de Reserve Brut NV Pierre Peters White Medium White Natural Champagne, Champagne District, France

This colorful taste requires a strong sense of structure of the wine. The wine served that night came from China's most famous female sommelier, the hand of jade. The appetizer Champagne is a well-known white, medium white, 100% Chardonnay, aged for 24 months with wine legs. Pierre Peters is one of the most outstanding small-scale wineries in the Champagne area. It was booked out almost immediately after the launch. Among them, the Burgundy wine king DRC also came here to order wine. Delicate and elegant, with tension, full of salty and fresh mineral flavors, it is ideal to pair with such a wide range of starters.

[Pay in advance]

Hokkaido red-hairy crab meat with vinegar jelly

This dish is served first, like a drizzle on the tip of the tongue. Lu Qing introduced: "The crab meat of the red-hairy crab is the most delicate. It is a vinegar jelly made of passion fruit combined with apple cider vinegar, and then use the water shield from West Lake. I found that Longyin's menu also uses a lot of our Chinese ingredients, including Michelin restaurants Mabu Xingcun and Cha Zen Hua."

Teacher Meiyu chose a riesling with an extremely delicate and elegant style to match it. Egon Muller Winery was founded in 1797 and is located in Mosel, Germany. It is famous for producing Germany's best Riesling. The winery has only 8 hectares of land, all of which are located in Mosel's best special garden,"Scharzhofberger Schatzburg", and most of them are old vines, some of which are over a hundred years old. "We chose the winery's semi-dry wine Kabinett with [Hokkaido red-hairy crab meat and vinegar jelly]. The acidity and sweetness of the passion fruit vinegar jelly are almost completely integrated with the acidity and sweetness of the wine."

Teacher Xiao Kuan smiled and praised: "This matching is very accurate because it really feels like it was made by a master."

Imuswarg Resling White Wine, Mosel, Germany Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Kabinett 2020, Mosel, Germany

After this, what we inherited is the natural sweetness of sashimi, which makes people linger.

[Yuzo]

Five types of sashimi are popular in the summer: pine leaf crab legs| Osamura Nagasaki| Nagasaki Ink| Hokkaido Arctic shellfish| Canadian peony shrimp

[Pot]

King crab pot food

New Deal No. 6 X Type Raw Liquor, Akita Prefecture, Japan Aramasa No. 6 X Type Premium Junmai Daiginjo, Akita, Japan

In Imperial Zao and Pot Goods, I received unprecedented satisfaction with crab legs. It was paired with "Xinzheng No. 6" Akita Prefecture's wine-making and suitable rice, 100% brewed, and 45% refined rice, using "Association No. 6 yeast".

Just like Lu Qing's crab cuisine does not distinguish between countries or crab species, she only cares about aesthetics. The concept of this wine is also the same. It changes the tradition and does not emphasize a single wine rice, but emphasizes the wine rice produced by each farmer in Akita Prefecture. Only gold wine rice such as "Yuzhiwei" and "Luyu No. 132" are selected. Because the winter in Akita County is quite cold, yeast No. 6 can carry out low-temperature fermentation at 10~12℃.

I like the lactic acid flavor and micro-bubble feeling inside. The wine is light and clean, and the texture matches the fresh sweetness of the crab legs.

[Roasted food]

I couldn't stop the crab legs of Beichang Charcoal barbecue. Teacher Teddy said that Beichang Charcoal is actually the heating principle of far infrared rays, with a wavelength of 3-30 microns. What I can directly feel is that prepared charcoal can heat up food quickly, the skin becomes golden and crispy, the inside retains water, and at the same time has a heart-catching aroma.

Prepare long grilled king crab legs

I had just gone to the Nanxi River in China to finish filming fragrant fish, and this time I met Japanese fragrant fish with fried seeds. Japanese-style grilled fish does not have the fish maw, so it tastes a little bitter. That is the special aesthetics that Japanese style attracted Yu Gan. The jade is paired with the wine "Today", which is called the Little Fourteenth Generation by enthusiasts, which is very suitable for the present.

Roast Changliang River Fragrant Fish at Luduan

Nowadays, pure rice is popular in Oinomachi, Mie Prefecture, and Japan's polished rice is 50%

"In these difficult times, don't worry about the past or the future, live in the present, and do your best to survive!" This is the origin of the name of sake [Today] and the motto of Daxivik, the sixth generation successor of wine making. The brewing process uses natural gravity to let the wine out drop by drop. This kind of wine is called rice wine (rice: meaning raindrop).

The "Xiongmachi" rice has not been finely ground, and the wine produced has a rich and round body and complex rice flavor, which is suitable for pairing with relatively rich dishes. The spicy taste and appropriate slightly bitter taste make the roasted food sweeter.

I have an obsession with Jialuoyaki rice, but matching such delicacies with today's fine wine is just mutual delay. Crab brain In my experience, orange wine is the best combination.

Pine Leaf Crab Jiaraki with Japanese Square Bao

[Bowl]

Moonlight lily hot and sour wings

In terms of intensity, this hot and sour wings is the most I have ever tasted. The Yunnan yellow pepper and Ningxia lily at the bottom of the soup are actually an interesting combination. The sweetness relieves the spicy and is just balanced.

For the sour and spicy wings, Meiyu chose "Tears of Jishan". Moreover, the yeast feeling in the Jialuoshao has finally been so strong! As one of Georgia's best wineries, this wine is brewed in earthen jars and is also on the wine lists of many famous restaurants, including Noma Restaurant.

In the early days of the winery, endangered varieties were planted. This one is brewed with the Kisi variety, and all grapes are grown organically. This wine was soaked for 3 weeks and aged in earthen jars for 7 months.

Pheasant Tears Kixi Natural Orange Wine, Kakhti, Georgia Pheasant's Tears Kisi White 2019, Kakheti, Georgia

The taste of orange peel and biscuits in the wine is very fragrant. Not only is it accompanied by crab brain, but the round body and acidity are also blended with the sour and spicy feeling of the hot and sour wings in the bowl and the thick soup.

[Strong Dishes]

The products of strong dishes are closer to the aesthetics of Chinese food. The charcoal-roasted pigeon leg meat was developed by Master Wang Yong. It is tender and invincible. It is the upgraded northeastern roast pigeon. There is a strong aroma of dried ba fungi and bacon to set off the fresh and sweet red-hairy crab legs, which has the charming energy of Yunnan. The sour and crispy spore cabbage and carrot in the pine leaf crab are like Chaoshan pickled cabbage.

Baked Red Hair Crab with Dry Bacterium

Roasted pine leaf crab with kimchi in Kansai

Grilled into pigeon legs

With these three dishes, I turned back and drank the present in front. At this time, another god-level wine appeared. I wondered, what dish was served behind it?

Anne Gros Chambolle Musigny La Combe d'Orveau 2005, Burgundy, France

Teacher Huangshan sitting next to me showed a satisfied look on his face: "I didn't expect that I could taste good wine of this level in a crab restaurant."

I couldn't help but drink first. It comes from Chambolle Musigny Shampoo Musini Village, which is famous for its softness. The 2005 vintage exudes the aroma of ripe red fruits, roses and light mushrooms.

The Gros Gros family is the representative family of the village of Vosne Romanée. In addition to Gros Frére et Soeur, Michel Gros, and Anne-Françoise Gros, three wineries also from Jean Gros. Cousin Anne Gros is the highest-rated, most detailed and rarest well-known winery.

Among Burgundy winemakers, in addition to the famous Leroy Le Hua and Leflaive Double Chicken, Anne Gros has attracted the most attention, creating a winery known for its elegance and detail.

Just like the tip of a needle is facing wheat awn, the delicacy must be facing warm oil.

[Steaming]

Miyazaki Kazuyoshi steamer

In order to match the delicate meat and rich oily "Miyazaki Kazuo Steamer", the Burgundy red wine with extremely fine and silky tannins is a fairy couple. The sauce used here is also very important. Plum and sesame sauce is very friendly to people like me who hate greasy feeling and cannot be dipped in pure vinegar. It is surrounded by fruit aroma and is especially friendly.

[Yang Wu]

Lu Qing was sharp. She quietly discovered that Yang food with fried carbohydrates and carbohydrates genes had now become the new favorite of Japanese ingredients. However, she, the wind, but faster than the wind, silently recreated Japanese ingredients with Chinese ingredients. Crispy fried spring rolls made with crab yellow of hairy crabs and Japanese popcorn next to them. It is enjoyable to drink.

Crab roe spring rolls

[Imperial Food]

I quietly discovered that all the water in the soup that I had just cooked the crab legs and the crab roe on the side had been boiled into the porridge.

Crab roe porridge and rice

Hand-made Kawako Wine 1994 Pure Rice Dayin Brew, Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan Tedorigawa Koshu 1994 Junmai Daiginjo, Ishikawa, Japan

Japanese ancient wine actually tastes somewhat similar to Chinese rice wine. Yoshida Liquor is one of Japan's largest well-known liquor makers with a history of 150 years. This ancient wine, brewed with pure rice Dayin Brew, was added to apple yeast when brewed in 1994, and you can still feel the wonderful acidity. This wine is paired with hairy crab crab yellow spring rolls and crab yellow porridge. It is a cross-border alternative to the classic pairing of [hairy crab yellow wine].

[Sweet]

Jujiang ice cream| fruit

I ate Japanese crispy persimmon and asked for a sunny day. How could I have the idea of cooking Oriental "fusion" cuisine like this? Her answer was also very pertinent: "We actually have the conditions to cook traditional exquisite dishes like Banqian. But the current situation is that Japanese chefs may not necessarily satisfy the Chinese consumer market. I just want to make every dish delicious and use the ingredients well at a reasonable price. In the middle of this, I made a lot of attempts and was also under pressure. For example, when eating at a round table, I used to worry that others would define us as pure Japanese cuisine, which would be inconsistent with the rules for eating like this. I am now completely rid of such concerns. I didn't choose it. The customer chose our direction."

To guests of the Crab Road, Lu Qing sends top-class Koshikari rice produced in Dandong, China every day. For top VIPs, the customized Laguiole wine knives and Riedel wine glasses are all an appreciation of the guests 'taste.

The beauty of this crab banquet lies in the fact that we can be pleasantly surprised to discover that the admirers and admirers of Chinese restaurants are achieving each other.

The goddess asked

Have you eaten any delicious crabs recently?

"Don't sing the song of everlasting regret from those days,

There is also a Milky Way in the world."

--Qing Dynasty: Yuan Mei's Ma Wei

Food Bless You!

Consultant for "Flavor World 3"

Owner of "God's Table"

Producer of "Food Wild China"