There's a big misunderstanding. It's common for northerners to order a bowl of food in Hangzhou and wear it like a fart?!
UP ChinaTravel
2024-07-07 00:12:28
0Times


noodles

Although men's words cannot be trusted,

Among them,

I can't believe Jack Ma's words, especially,

But Jack Ma said that during the Southern Song Dynasty, 200000 officials from Kaifeng fled to Hangzhou,

I believe this sentence.


Food carries nostalgia, and Zhang Lei, one of the "Four Scholars of Sumen," is from northern Jiangsu. Due to work needs, he came to the south and the local dietary habits forced him to eat fish and rice, which made him extremely worried. So, many of his poems mention pasta.


Food and fashion have their roots. Noodles first came from Loulan. In the early years, Qianlong made Loulan Palace for the fragrant concubines from the Western Regions and ate them. At that time in the Southern Song Dynasty, the Hangzhou noodle shop was very fashionable, featuring works of art from the southern wind of the river. This is similar to the fact that designers often adopt a Nordic style nowadays.


In Volume 16 of "Dream of Liang Lu", "Tea Shop" reads: "In Bianjing's cooked food shop, famous paintings are hung to attract viewers and retain diners. Today's Hangzhou tea shop is also like this, planting seasonal flowers, hanging celebrity paintings, and decorating the storefront."



Northerners often have a misconception that besides making money, Southerners like to buy snow as a way to show their love and don't know how to eat noodles.


Recently, there was a real joke that senior media personality Zhao Xing told me a few days ago. A friend from the north came to Hangzhou to eat noodles and introduced him to the "Pianer Chuan" food. Upon hearing this, he said, "What? It's so exciting! How spicy it is to try a bowl at a time."


The representative of Hangzhou noodles is Pian Er Chuan, which is often used as breakfast by old Hangzhou people. The name of Pian Er Chuan is mostly due to the pronounced "er" sound in Hangzhou dialect. The ingredients of this delicacy are usually cut into pieces and made by boiling water, so "Pian Er Pao" is called "Pian Er Chuan". Unlike the usual soft and delicate taste of northern noodles, the favorite dish of the old Hangzhou people, Pian Er Chuan, is the slightly hard and trendy noodles. It emphasizes the use of raw noodles in the pot, and the noodles can be easily boiled in water. The soup of Pian Er Chuan is also very different from the clear soup in the north. It has a strong soup taste that draws on various ingredients, with a clear color and a thick taste.


In fact, due to historical factors, the important southern town of Hangzhou moved its capital to the land of fish and rice. The culinary culture integrated the infinite love of northerners for noodles at that time, and noodles were still the most popular breakfast among the local people in Hangzhou. At the beginning of the Southern Song Dynasty, there were more than 50 kinds of steamed food in Hangzhou, where the old people in Kaifeng gathered, including steamed buns, lotus leaf cakes, mutton Mantou, various pies, thousand layer cakes, Shaobing (Baked cake in griddle), spring cakes, etc.


In short, during the Southern Song Dynasty, northern immigrants migrated south, resulting in a shortage of wheat in Jiangnan. In the early years of Shaoxing, the price of wheat per mu increased to 12000 wen. Later, due to the widespread cultivation of wheat in Jiangnan, Lin'an was as low as 30 wen per bowl of noodles, and veterans from the north still relied on noodles as their staple food.


Henan people roll noodles by hand, pour garlic juice and mustard on top, and it's a regular meal. Henan Braised Noodles is one of the representatives, which involves manually rolling out a finger wide dough and tearing it into three to four pieces. Perhaps due to its generosity, this noodle was also known as tangbing during the Han and Wei dynasties. Yang Wanli, a native of Jiangxi, often boasted about his love for noodles, such as "Laozi Pingsheng tangbing sausage.". During the Song Dynasty, Bianjing restaurants had a supply of "stuffed meat noodles and Da Ao noodles", later known as lamb stewed noodles.


Perhaps due to the relocation of the capital to Hangzhou, the noodles are expensive. The people from Henan have thinned their dough. The noodles that Hangzhou people love to eat are oily and soup rich, but still thicker than the average. We still need half a lifetime of alkaline water. No matter what kind of foreign Hangzhou style improvement it is, the thick slice beef noodles made in Taiwan or the Chengdu style chicken shreds cold noodles should be watered more.


Boil the noodles until they are half cooked, first for the sake of strength, and second for the time to come. The custom in old Hangzhou is to eat the water first and then drink some yellow wine. It is said to be a topper, but in fact, it is a dish served with wine and must be stir fried. When half of the noodles are soaked in hot soup, they absorb the spring light. Noodle soup and noodles, you have me in you, and I have you in me. I just started eating noodles. There is a fragrance of wheat in the soup, and a fresh soul with watering in the noodles. Half a lifetime of noodles is enough to prevent the small wine from rising too much after half a hearty drink.


Beef Noodles @ Hangzhou JW Marriott Hotel


Chicken Shredded Cold Noodles @ Hubin 28


Places that eat noodles usually have a crisp personality. This can be seen from Hangzhou men, who use the mute nickname "Hang Iron Head". They usually have a strong and imposing demeanor, and are always reasonable, so they cannot be used as a warm and sunny boyfriend in winter. When he said: Do you want to go eat bowl noodles together? This indicates that after the candlelight dinner stage, we have officially considered marrying the female tiger on the other side whom he has been joking about. Let me put it this way, most Hangzhou men are still rough and clumsy, which has nothing to do with whether they love you or not. It is closely related to the establishment of the capital in Nanjing (now Shangqiu, Henan) during the early Southern Song Dynasty and the later relocation of the capital to Lin'an (now Hangzhou, Zhejiang).


Let's just talk about eating noodles.


Yes. Snow vegetables are adorned with thin slices of pork tenderloin, complementing the winter bamboo shoots. On an ordinary autumn and winter morning, like a skilled magician, without seeing any props, they have gently and skillfully cleared the slightly chilly and drowsy morning slumber, clearing the bones and blood of the whole body. It doesn't matter if you haven't appreciated West Lake in detail, haven't tasted the taste of "wearing buttocks", and dare not mention Hangzhou.


Pian'er River @ Qianjiang New City Marriott Hotel Chinese Restaurant


However, this kind of comfort is best expressed locally. The Hangzhou dialect of "falling stomach" is highly summarized in just two words, conveying the comfort and comfort of food to the stomach. It is like the landscape painting of a talented scholar from Jiangnan, where the outline is drawn one by one, and the flavors are explored, leaving enough room for individual imagination.


Egg Noodles @ Junlan Hotel Chinese Restaurant at World Trade Center


Xiaoshumian @ Dayu Huizhou


It is probably because most people in the south believe that soup can nourish, especially when eating noodles. The noodle soup derived from the essence of food from multiple ingredients and the main noodles can not be mutually responsive, which is a complete noodle eating. The main ingredients of Pian Er Chuan are pork tenderloin slices, winter bamboo shoots slices, and snow vegetables. They look simple and casual, but in fact, the combination of several ingredients is quite ingenious. These three flavors have a soft and hard taste, and a deep and light color. They are stacked in a staggered manner, which is exactly the change in the depth, distance, and ink charm of Jiangnan landscape painting. At first glance, they appear plain and light, with a fine taste that combines hardness and softness. Between bowls, the taste is rich and the layers are distinct.


Pian'er River @ Xizi Hotel


Besides its taste, Pian'er River also corresponds to the food aesthetic of literati in Jiangnan. In "The Green Cloud Pavilion of Yu Qian Monk," Su Shi said, "Without bamboo, one is vulgar; without meat, one is thin." Pian Er Chuan happens to have both. In the Qing Dynasty, Li Yu's "Occasional Sending of Leisure Feelings," there are many ways to eat bamboo shoots, and we cannot follow the rules. Please summarize them in two words: white water is suitable for vegetarian dishes, and fat pigs are used for meat. Anyway, it is either boiled in clean water or roasted in lard, which has an elegant taste.


There are quite a few restaurants in Hangzhou that specialize in making movies, and each one has their own distinctions in terms of details. Represented by Kuiyuan Guan and Zhiweiguan, the traditional style of Pian Er Chuan uses pickled mustard in the pickled vegetables. This method enhances the freshness of the soup, and at the same time, the taste of the soup becomes more pronounced, which may be too salty for diners who have a light taste.


Fresh Snow Potherb Mustard


The Xinpai Pianer Chuan shop has improved the use of pickled mustard seeds. Instead of using pickled ones, fresh mustard seeds are cut into small and thin sections and directly added to the soup. This method uses their green and astringent taste to relieve greasiness and clear the mouth, making it more suitable for those with a light taste. In terms of the texture of the noodles themselves, the noodles from Kuiyuan Restaurant are as thick and thin as scallions, rather than the flat and thin noodles used in most noodle restaurants. They are cooked softer and are highly praised by Old Hangzhou. Thanks to the explosive food documentary "China on the Tongue", the ingredients at the Juying Noodle Restaurant are carefully selected. Winter bamboo shoots use the tender parts, which are sweet and not astringent. The meat slices are marinated with cooking wine, neat and uniform, almost the same size, and the snow vegetables are also marinated. They are the same, with a bit of oil added. As soon as the slices are served, you can smell the obvious smell of lard, whether you like it or not depends on yourself. Of course, in addition to the well-known restaurants mentioned above, every noodle shop in the old city area has its own unique and delicious dishes. There are many authentic and distinctive ones. Don't look at the decoration and layout of the noodles. Follow in the footsteps of old Hangzhou and you can easily find small shops hidden in the streets and alleys. Taste and price can often be balanced.


It's easy to follow the old Hangzhou to enter the store, but ordering together has some cognitive barriers. Some of the commonly used "slang" in old Hangzhou may be confusing to those who don't understand it. For example, "A bowl of Sichuan, wide soup, heavy green, and oil residue need to cross the bridge" only contains a few words, but it contains several simplified professional terms similar to English word abbreviations. "Kuan Tang" means adding more noodle soup, while the opposite is "tight juice"; "Chongqing" means adding more scallions, otherwise it means "avoiding green"; "Crossing the bridge" means placing a separate plate of side dishes. Eating old Hangzhou slices and ordering in Hangzhou dialect, the delicious taste is here.


Oil residue mixed with Sichuan @ Good Canteen


The first mother of Kawabata is called Misakawa. As the name suggests, the method is dry mixing. The deliciousness of mixed Sichuan lies in being tempered by overheated oil, which adds a touch of fireworks aroma to ordinary mixed noodles. In contrast to selecting sliced meat and bamboo shoots in Pian'er River, the authentic way to mix Sichuan dishes is to shred them. Chives yellow, dried pork, shredded meat must be present, and additional ingredients such as large intestine, pork ribs, kidney flower, and pork liver can also be added. During the frying process, there should be a lot of oil and high heat, including dark soy sauce, yellow wine, salt, pepper, and thickening, all of which should be added. This way, the dish is oily, fragrant, smooth, and slightly sticky, similar to the "juicing" effect of Western tomato sauce pasta. For diners who prefer more flavorful dishes and are obsessed with the fusion of toppings, sauces, and noodles, don't miss out on mixing Sichuan.


One Mother Compatriot of Pian Er Chuan: Toshikawa

Mixed Sichuan with Dried Pork and Shredded Pork @ Alley


The star store in Banchuan, Mr. Fang's noodles are definitely one. The store is quite small, and even in the rainstorm, it is unavoidable to queue up, but the order is smooth, and it is still a semi open kitchen. During the waiting, you can see the whole process of noodles burning intuitively, which is more appetizing for diners. In addition to mixing Sichuan, the waist flower slices are tender and odorless, and the noodles will not soften in the end. They are also the masterpiece of the divine disc.


Egg and Shredded Pork Mixed with Sichuan @ Xinyi Tea House


The above are the most popular specialty restaurants for breakfast in old Hangzhou. It is indeed difficult to feel the warmth of the people across from Hangzhou without visiting Hangzhou. In fact, in addition to the traditional dishes of Pian Er Chuan and Bing Chuan, there are also many fancy toppings and noodles to choose from for breakfast in Hangzhou, which can serve as a luxurious upgraded breakfast for guests with just a bowl of noodles.


The shrimp fried eel noodles that Jin Yong couldn't forget were said to be luxurious, bold, and full of passion. Shrimp fried eel noodles are made from thick and fresh eels. After cutting off the head, tail, and bones, the eels are cut into slices. They are then fried in vegetable oil, stir fried in meat oil, and watered in sesame oil until the eels are crispy and yellow; Wash fresh river shrimp, add egg white and stir fry until tender and white; Boil noodles with the original sauce to allow the noodles to absorb the aroma of eels, resulting in a thick and fresh sauce. The food inspiration for shrimp fried eel noodles is said to have originated from the business philosophy of the Qing Dynasty. At that time, the Qiantang River area was rich in eels, while freshwater river shrimp were not abundant. Rare goods were precious. In order to promote eels, fishermen paired eels with river shrimp for sale, achieving this dish.


In a bowl full of passion: shrimp fried eel noodles


There is a saying in Old Hangzhou that goes "Xiaoshu eel competes with ginseng". In addition to ingredients and price, the luxurious shrimp fried eel noodles also have nutritional value. Eel specially contains "eel element" that can reduce blood sugar and regulate blood sugar, and the fat it contains is rarely an ideal food for patients with diabetes, and it will not be greasy. Shrimp is rich in nutrients, with soft and easily digestible meat, which can effectively protect the cardiovascular system, reduce cholesterol levels in the blood, and prevent arteriosclerosis. The sum of the two, this bowl is indeed luxurious enough to balance the inside and outside.


Xiangyou Eel Shredded Sichuan @ Huzhou Huixin Valley Chinese Restaurant


Eating is not just about eating. Memories, emotions, and even attitudes towards life, more and more, are all within. The leisurely and leisurely poetic style and the speed of Hangzhou, the capital of the Internet, are the city's business cards and make the world look at them.


Even today in 2019, there are still people from Hangzhou gathered outside inconspicuous small noodle shops on the streets and alleys, sitting on small benches to eat noodles just for the sake of being truly delicious. This scene is so touching that people are moved by this love for life, and they shed tears and become fat.


Two sided yellow @ blue edged bowl


TIPS

Big opening diet, quit eating directly

Recommended Top Ten Hangzhou Noodles

(Ranking is not in order, please choose according to personal taste)


The puppy noodle shop is a small shop with no identification signs or tightly closed iron gates, only doing morning and noon business

Breakfast recommendation: Kidney flower mixed with Sichuan and sliced Sichuan

Address of Fuxing Store: 113 Fuxing South Street


Fuxing Noodle King is a shop that dares to call itself "Noodle King". Some people say it has "the best tomato sauce mixed with Sichuan in Hangzhou"

Breakfast recommendation: Sichuan mixed with eggplant juice, shrimp fried eel noodles

Address: 178 Hedong Road


Fang Laoda is a reputation store with unremarkable appearance and innovative taste

Breakfast recommendation: Kidney flower slices Sichuan, mixed Sichuan

Address: No. 629 Jiangcheng Road


Juying Noodle Shop "China on the Bite of Tongue" Visits and Clocks in Line! Line up! Line up!

Breakfast recommendation: set meal of sliced Sichuan, mushrooms, oil residue, poached eggs, and bamboo shoots

Address of Zhongshan South Road Store: No. 368 Zhongshan South Road


Huijuan Noodle Restaurant, from snacks to large, conceals delicious food hidden in residential areas

Breakfast recommendation: pork liver noodles, shrimp fried eel noodles

Main store address: 130 Wangjiang Road


Liufang Noodle Restaurant, Old Hangzhou Popular Hangbang Noodle Restaurant

Breakfast recommendation: Mixed Sichuan with Eggplant Juice, Dried Bamboo Shoots with Tomato Noodles

Address of Zhongshan North Road Store: No. 190 Zhongshan North Road


The combination of Chinese style and Chinese flavor in Jun'er Noodle Restaurant

Breakfast recommendation: Shrimp waist flower noodles, beef brisket noodles

Address of Wulin Plaza Store: 468 Wulin Road


Ma Kunshan, the owner of the Big Bowl Noodle Restaurant, owns a private noodle shop

Breakfast recommendation: Sliced Sichuan with Dongpo Braised Pork

Address: Intersection of Hengchangshou Road


Tu Ji Noodle Shop: A noodle shop outside Hangzhou's doorstep that doesn't step on thunder

Breakfast recommendation: Sour and spicy large intestine noodles, tender and smooth pork liver noodles

Address of Wulin Plaza Store: 468 Wulin Road


The Origin of the Story of Bench Noodles in Laoqiaotou Noodle Restaurant

Breakfast recommendation: Noodles with pork ribs and pork liver

Address: 1-6 Xiaohezhi Street


In several famous Central Plains battles in Chinese history, a large number of northerners who fled the war migrated south to Fujian. When northerners arrived in Fujian, Fujian had to reshuffle due to intermarriage.


Recently, my mother-in-law went to Xiamen, Fujian, which is also my favorite place to eat noodles along the southern coast. The noodles that the people there love to eat, the soup and noodles are like the sea and sky, thin, and the noodles are fine. More watering is needed. Line noodles are said to have originated in the Southern Song Dynasty and have a long history of over 800 years. Guanyuanli, Minhou, is a famous production area for line noodles in Fuzhou. "A cup of tangbing is disheveled with silver threads, stretching like strands of jade hairpins." This is a famous line by the Song Dynasty poet Huang Tingjian, praising Fuzhou noodles.



Of course, there is also a beautiful woman who cannot be missed, who is the Quanzhou Noodle Paste, where one cannot judge by appearance. Noodle noodle soup is made by boiling delicious and fresh seafood such as shrimp, oysters, clams, and light vegetables into a paste.



The craftsmanship is quite complex. First, wrap the shrimp bran in gauze, boil it in clean water for half an hour, remove the shrimp bran, filter the soup, and set aside. Then tear the dried fish meat into shreds, put it on high heat in a pot, pour in pork bone soup and the soup cooked with shrimp bran, and bring to a boil together. Twist the refined noodles into small pieces and put them into a boiling pot. Add salt, monosodium glutamate, and other ingredients to adjust the flavor. Slowly scoop the starch into the pot after adding water, and continuously beat until the noodles float and the soup in the pot becomes a paste. Paste without rotting, the finished product has distinct roots.


But it is not similar to the taste of life by the Fuzhou pot. On the contrary, in addition to using seafood as an ingredient, it often adds duck intestines, pig blood, or a large string of pig intestines to the noodle batter, allowing the oil to blend in.



When eating, it is often paired with deep-fried dough sticks, and seasoned with fried scallions and pepper. Although the product is elegant, its temperament is strong and delicious. Perhaps this is pure sexiness, and a contrast is even more interesting.



Yuandouxiang Snack Shop and Soy Sauce Brother ate Xiamen ancient breakfast. deep-fried dough sticks was soaked in bone soup. Lean meat, pig blood, pig liver, intestines and sea oysters were all indispensable.



Longyan Clear Soup Powder. The clear soup powder is mainly made of Longyan Rice noodles boiled in the pan, with fresh pig bone soup added with special seasonings, and then paved with various delicious seasonings according to personal preferences. There are mainly two ways to prepare dishes. One is the chive bean sprout style, which involves adding chive bean sprouts to the main ingredient powder and pairing it with meat; Another type is the vegetable style, which is paired with hot cooked seasonal vegetables.




I have eaten over 100 yuan of noodles in Xiamen, and the luxurious lineup of "toppers" is really outrageous.



On that day in Xiamen, for the first time, I woke up early for a bowl of black sugar tea noodles. When cooking, first make sand tea soup with sand tea sauce, then cook the oil noodles in southern Fujian, and then add bean sprouts, pig liver and other accessories to make Noodles in soup. Shacha has a strong and exotic complexion. In fact, it's not just about the exotic charm it looks like.


Shacha originated in Indonesia and was originally pronounced as "satay". In the mouths of Xiamen people who enjoy drinking tea, it is called "Shacha". Gourmet connoisseurs combine the originally imported satay sauce with big bone soup, peanut butter, and alkaline oil noodles to create a delicious breakfast that has become one of the common breakfasts in Fujian. It has also been widely spread due to the development of Xiamen's tourism industry.


Sha Cha noodles with rich colors and flavors are equally rich. The soup is orange red in color and has a strong flavor. It has a slight spiciness when consumed, but when tasted again, this slight spiciness gradually disappears and is replaced by the sweet and fragrant taste of peanut butter mixed with milk. From spiciness to sweetness and richness, Sha Cha Noodle is widely recognized for its ability to stimulate appetite and enhance metabolism, making it suitable for stimulating and awakening the stomach before waking up.


Another theory is that the people of Fujian are also descendants of the elderly in Henan, so now I have a balance in my heart.


Ten Xiamen Noodle Restaurants Recommended

(Ranking is not in order, please choose according to personal taste)


Jukou Mixed Noodles, an old shop with a history of over 30 years, began operating in 1985

Breakfast recommendation: mixed noodles, flat soup

Address: Inside Hengxiang, Siming South Road, Jukou Street


Mingyue Shrimp Noodles is a very inconspicuous small shop with good quality and affordable prices

Breakfast recommendation: signature shrimp noodles, sand tea noodles

Address: 180 Xiahe Road


The leader of black sugar tea noodles recommended by locals

Breakfast recommendation: Shacha noodles, fish balls

Address: No. 76 Minzu Road


Yuehua Sha Cha Noodle is a popular local old shop, and Grandma Yuehua is still at home in the shop

Breakfast recommendation: Classic Shacha Noodles, Braised Pork Zongzi

Address: No. 78 Zhenbang Road


The fabric of Si Li Sha Cha is very abundant, and the Sha Cha is also rich

Breakfast recommendation: Shacha Noodles, Fried Five Fragrances

Address: No. 172-176 Qixing West Road


Aling noodle paste business hours are very regular. Noodle paste is available in the morning, and Spring rolls and salty rice are available at noon and afternoon

Recommended for breakfast: noodle paste, Spring rolls

Address: No. 63-1 Xi'an Road


Wulan Sha Cha Noodle is a popular Sha Cha Noodle restaurant in Zengcuo'an, with a sweet taste

Breakfast recommendation: signature sand tea noodles, fried oysters

Address: 289 Church Street


Gongtangsha Tea Noodle, a 38 Year Inherited Good Noodle

Recommended breakfast: Gufasha Tea Noodles, Yanpi Flat Food

Address: First Floor, No. 99 Kaiyuan Road


Jiawei adds another snack shop filled with memories of Xiamen people

Breakfast recommendation: Noodle batter, taro buns

Address: 49 Datong Road


Lao Si Sha Cha Noodle Luxury Edition Sha Cha Noodle

Breakfast recommendation: signature sand tea noodles, Ginger Duck

Xiamen University Headquarters Address: No. 9-2 Fengchao Mountain Road


Ps: Daoxiao Noodles in Fujian are also delicious! Brother Soy Sauce is a big man in Xiamen's food circle. His "good mouth" Daoxiao Noodles is the most irresistible version I have ever tasted. After fish is cooked with Puning bean paste and noodles are stirred, I decide to go up the tree!





Shenpo asked

What kind of noodles do you like to eat?




Seeking knowledge,

And to understand the essence of all things through seeking knowledge,

This is a talent

And true art,

It is contained within nature,

Who can discover it,

Whoever controls it. "

——Dule


Food Bless You!

Consultant for China International Food Expo

Producer of "The Divine Dining Table"


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