[Written at the beginning]

This is an annual comprehensive family trip that spans 13 days and spans 12 cities across the three provinces of Zhejiang, Min, and Guangdong (with 2 people in the first half and 4 people in the second half). It includes a quick tour and in-depth experience between popular tourist cities, niche villages, and islands. The content is rich, covering a wide range of topics, and the narrative is relatively objective. Because I am afraid that my writing will be confusing and tiring for everyone, I will divide it into three parts: top, middle, and bottom.

Due to the huge project, LZ's husband spent a lot of time and energy in the early stage of preparation. He formulated a detailed travel plan that took into account various factors such as the destination's weather, attractions, accommodation, cuisine, and sports venues. The content was detailed and the expectations were sufficient, which was almost to the point of being "outrageous". However, having a plan in mind is better than being in a panic! All the arrangements throughout the entire travel process are well deserved, unexpected, unfulfilled, and also pitted. In the following travelogue, I will not describe the well-known tourist attractions that everyone is familiar with and familiar with too much. I will focus on writing some memorable points for your reference.

Travel is not just about beautiful scenery and delicious food, but also about exercising

Since last year, regardless of the length of travel time, we have begun to try to add exercise to the travel process and gradually increase its proportion, because we have deeply realized the infinite benefits it brings: firstly, to continue the exercise habits we have developed all along; Secondly, exercise can help you eat better and have more freedom; The third is to measure an unfamiliar city with your own footsteps, where you will see scenery that tourists cannot see and experience the daily life of the locals. So, sports will become an indispensable and important component of this travelogue, and even future travelogues.

【 Zhejiang Journey 】

DAY1 Fly directly from Beijing to Hangzhou, visit Baoshi Mountain, Baoshu Pagoda, and Lingyin Temple

DAY2 Driving from Hangzhou to Shaoxing, Anchang Ancient Town, Lu Xun's Former Residence, Cangqiao Direct Street

DAY3 Drive from Shaoxing to Jinhua, Zhuge Bagua Village, Shuanglong Cave Scenic Area, and continue to drive to Lishui, Jinyun Heyang Ancient Town

DAY4 Lishui, Ancient Yan Painting Village, continue driving to Wenzhou, Yandang Mountain Scenic Area

DAY5 Wenzhou City Tour

DAY6 Wenzhou High speed Railway to Xiapu, Ningde

For this transportation, in addition to the departure and return flights, as well as taking the high-speed rail from Zhejiang to Fujian, rental cars and self driving will be provided throughout the journey. It is worth mentioning that Yihi Car Rental has now launched free remote or cross provincial car return services in some regions of the country. For example, we rented two cars in total for this trip, one from Hangzhou to Wenzhou, and the other from Xiapu, Fujian to Guangzhou, both of which do not charge for long-distance return fees. For tourists like us who have many tourist cities and short stays, it's really good news. Although high-speed rail is now developed, traveling through 12 cities in 13 days, it is still very inconvenient to borrow and repay wherever necessary. This measure greatly saves our valuable time. However, the condition and appearance of the car can basically be described as unbearable. Compared to its advantages, this drawback is that we Shinobi!

[Hangzhou - Will eventually become nostalgia]

Hangzhou is considered the most popular tourist city on this trip, but it holds a different significance for me. When I was a child, during winter and summer vacations, my parents would send me to my grandmother's house in Hangzhou, Baochu Pagoda, Youth Palace, Six Parks, Pinghai Street..... Carrying too many childhood memories, this trip can also be considered nostalgic. (Um... how come I heard that getting old can easily lead to nostalgia...)

In my childhood memories, Hangzhou is gentle and peaceful. Its beauty comes from the harmony between mountains and rivers, the swaying peach and willow trees by the lake, the shimmering lake water under the sunset, and the refreshing feeling of walking between the chirping of flowers, trees, birds, and cicadas. But now, I can no longer feel the feeling at that time. Hangzhou has become a popular tourist city, with a plethora of popular check-in spots and restaurants waiting in line step by step; Don't talk to me about the broken bridge and residual snow (which turns into black, gray, and snowy water before it even accumulates), the willow waves and warblers (except for the bustling voices of the people, no natural sounds can be heard), only the crowded and jostling tourists, the hustle and bustle has already covered the tranquility and peace.

My husband has never been to the famous scenic spot of Lingyin Temple. Let's take a walk with him and experience the vibrant incense!

When I was a child, I would climb up the Gemstone Mountain every once in a while to play hide and seek. Now, we are actually blocked on the mountain. The narrow path between the rocks can only accommodate one person, but now we must pass sideways to avoid the large queue of people waiting to pass blocking the crevices between the rocks; The large boulders on the mountaintop are the best angle to admire West Lake. Adults and children, regardless of age or danger, scramble to climb up, but the result is that they are too timid to get down, blocking everyone behind them. The climbing crowd takes advantage of the opportunity to occupy the only passage one by one, and the scene is so chaotic........

The darker it gets, the higher it gets! The bustling night market around the West Lake scenic area, with parading tourists and several police officers directing traffic and maintaining order on the broken bridge.

The Hangbang restaurants within the West Lake scenic area are all internet famous shops, so popular that they can queue for a few hours. I really don't want to waste my precious travel time on meaningless waiting, and I feel that the more popular I am on the internet, the more I become. I casually find a home cooked restaurant to have the only main meal of the day, and arriving at 5 o'clock is actually the last table, instantly drunk.

Ingredients are the most common ingredients, and the cooking method is also the most common. The only reason for queuing should be because it is cheap.

After finishing, I saw people queuing up in Wuyang.

I know it's impossible to see the Hangzhou in my memory anymore. There are no longer peak or off-season, and it's a paradise for tourists all year round. Hangzhou is the Hangzhou of the whole country.

The small emotions have been vented! The journey cannot always be full of twists and turns and setbacks. Working hard can still bring surprises!

Escaping from the forefront of the West Lake scenic area and decisively abandoning well-known online noodle shops such as "Juying Noodle Shop", thinking about queuing up for a few hours to eat a bowl of "Pianer River", my head swells. Ride a bike to search for the "Qiaohu" noodle shop located in a residential area, which also focuses on local noodles in Hangzhou. The room with two rooms and one hall was transformed. We entered the room through the sundry room and simply placed a few square tables. The landlady greeted us as if we were neighbors. One bowl of famous Pianerchuan, two bowls of signature mixed Sichuan, and each bowl of noodles included a piece of vegetarian chicken and a Soy egg, which could be renewed free of charge. We belong to the first wave of diners for lunch, and after that, two rooms were filled one after another. There were tourists, residents, and nearby workers, regardless of gender or age. A bowl of Sichuan food can satisfy you well. In Hangzhou, a meal priced at 16 yuan is both economical and affordable!

However, while experiencing the family atmosphere, it is also important to be mentally prepared for the speed of serving in the home workshop. It is difficult to produce freshly cooked noodles, stir fried toppings, and during peak dining hours with the help of home style kitchen equipment.

A simple shop sign

All the menus are here, and there's basically no stepping on lightning.

Diner's message.

The classic signature "Pian Er Chuan", with its ingredients, color, and flavor, do you still insist on wasting a lot of time waiting for internet celebrity stores?

Shredded pork mixed with Sichuan, Sichuan noodles mixed with Seaweed soup.

Stir fried eel mixed with Sichuan, with a slightly balanced taste list, suitable for light mouthed diners, such as me!

The night view of West Lake is quite impressive, but I won't tell you that there are actually people around me who follow the crowd...... Placing night photos is to introduce the upcoming sports section, which is also the most joyful part of my trip to Hangzhou.

The next morning at 5:30 am, I woke up from the hotel and walked for five minutes to reach the West Lake. (I specifically found this hotel for a morning run, just to find a good location, and finally realized that this is all the advantages of this hotel.)

After the warm-up activity, start running around West Lake from Six Park at six o'clock. Before, it was impossible to go around West Lake in a circle, as there were many obstacles and dead ends that needed to be avoided. After getting through, running around the lake became my dream all along. This time, my husband finally accompanied me to achieve it. Facts have proved that my expectations are worth it: you will find that the wide broken bridge on the calm lake, trees lined with trees, flowers and grass, ink and wash landscape paintings of different depths in the distance, the Leifeng Tower City God Pavilion covered with brilliant rays, and the quiet Nanshan Road under the wutong tree, all kinds of things I saw and ran, let my mind gradually fill with memories. My favorite Hangzhou should be like this, and I'm glad I can see the most beautiful Hangzhou!

The Broken Bridge in the Dawn

Shocked by the beauty of the morning glow......

The lush wutong trees block the sky.

Although I have a different kind of affection for Hangzhou, I won't visit it frequently after becoming an internet celebrity city, but the most beautiful scenes from childhood to adulthood will always remain in my heart.

Shaoxing, Ancient Town, Alley, Wupeng Boat

Shaoxing, although a famous former residence of Lu Xun, is far less popular for tourism than Hangzhou. The entire small town (mainly referring to the old urban area) does not have excessive promotion and commercial development. The characteristics of the Jiangnan water town are distinct, with small streets, alleys, bridges, and flowing water. The people living by the water are leisurely and comfortable, filled with a rich and ancient water town charm.

Firstly, we highly recommend Anchang Ancient Town around Shaoxing, a more authentic water town.

The main area in the ancient town consists of a river, residential and commercial buildings on both sides, and countless small stone bridges.

Sitting on the Wupeng boat, one of the "Three Wus Culture" in Shaoxing, the boatman paddled hand and foot. Standing on the ship, we quietly watched as ripples spread from both sides of the ship, and shops opened on both sides. Residents were busy preparing to start their day....

After landing, one can deeply immerse themselves in this beauty. Here, you won't see the monotonous products sold on internet famous ancient streets, nor hear the shouting of local accents. All you have is local specialty pickled products, such as sauce duck, sauce fish, sauce meat, sauce quail.... What I heard were the voices of shopkeepers and tourists communicating in a strong Shaoxing dialect, creating a harmonious scene unique to the millennium old town.

It's not yet the season to wear a black felt hat, so the boatman still wears a bamboo hat.

What can only be seen in the hometown of Huangjiu is fully utilized, even green plants are planted in Huangjiu jars.....

The hometown of Lu Xun is located in the old urban area of Shaoxing. As long as you go to the tourist center for free tickets, you can visit the Three Flavors Bookstore, Baicaoyuan, and Lu Xun Memorial Hall one by one. Because it is famous, it is also the most popular attraction in the entire Shaoxing tourism. I, who has been there before, did not enter this time. I really don't want to follow the crowd and squeeze into that small space again.

For some reason, the Baicao Garden did not open.

We are not very clear about our former or ancestral homes.

The Wupeng boat tour project at the entrance of the scenic area is expensive and popular. If you want to experience it, it is strongly recommended to go to Anchang Ancient Town.

Our hotel is located on the street of Lu Xun's former residence, known as the "Xianheng Hotel". With its superior geographical location, the Chinese architectural style and the theme garden view of small bridges, flowing water, and canopies, it is highly representative.

There is no running schedule in Shaoxing, and we did strength training in the hotel gym in the afternoon. Therefore, in addition to valuing geographical location, having a gym is also an important factor in our choice of hotel.

Cangqiao Straight Street is a typical street in Shaoxing. It has water scenery, special food, rice wine museum, and fireworks in daily life. Time is short. Walking in this street is enough to let you experience the essence of Shaoxing.

Our dinner, which is also the only main meal in Shaoxing, was also chosen at the "Treasure Hunt" Cangqiao Zhijie store. The Chinese style decoration, warm and thoughtful service, and distinctive Shaoxing cuisine added to my liking for Shaoxing.

Signature dish - Drunken Crab and Drunken Shrimp, warm and cooked shrimp soaked in yellow wine, with a sweet and slightly alcoholic taste. The crab is not big, full of crab roe, full of shrimp, and firm and bouncy shrimp meat.

Red-Stewed Duck is a special dish in Zhejiang.

Stinky tofu is one of the dishes you must order in Shaoxing.

There will be regrets if we don't taste it. As we are not strong enough, we tried the trial version of the yellow wine from the restaurant, and the amount was just right!

The tin pot was filled with yellow wine and milk tea, leaving a faint taste of yellow wine in the mouth.

As night fell, the lights were turned on at the right time, perfectly fitting our itinerary. The same Cangqiao straight street immediately emitted a different charm.

Wandering aimlessly, small stalls and shops sell various desserts related to yellow wine.

There was a long line waiting for the first Stinky tofu in Shaoxing to be cooked.

The gentle breeze is especially suitable for aimless strolling. Good night Shaoxing......

[Jinhua, Thoughts from Elementary School Texts]

Because a long time ago, Mr. Ye Shengtao's article "Remembering Jinhua's Double Dragon Cave" in his elementary school textbook allowed us to add Jinhua, which has no memory points except for ham, to this itinerary.

Due to its unclear characteristics, we did not go to the city or stay overnight, and headed straight to the Shuanglong Cave scenic area and Zhuge Bagua Village.

I'm so sorry to enter Jinhua and complain about it first. Unexpectedly, the beautiful Zhuge Bagua Village boasted on the Internet is the biggest pit in this trip.

Firstly, the ticket price is high. Even if an ancient village has its own characteristics, it is still a village. A ticket of 90 yuan per ticket is the ticket number one for our trip. Secondly, it is impossible to overlook the panoramic view of the village. The layout of Bagua Village is based on the design and construction concept of Bagua Map, with Zhong Chi as the core, half water and half land, resembling the Tai Chi in the Nine Palaces Bagua Map. Eight small alleys extend in all directions, leading to eight earthen mounds outside the village. The alleys have also given rise to many narrow alleys that are horizontally connected, with many crisscrossed residential buildings scattered between the alleys. Outsiders entering alleys often find it difficult to get in and out, and may even lose their direction. I believe everyone, like me, will be curious and excited about this unique village after reading the introduction. But there is no high ground in the entire village that allows you to enjoy the wonders of gossip. "I don't know the true face of Mount Lu, it's only because I was born in this mountain.". Finally, the guide signs in the village have planned the entire tour route for you, and you cannot truly experience the joy of entering the "Bagua Maze" and wandering around the Central Plains. So what we see is an ancient residential village characterized by Huizhou architecture, which has nothing to do with gossip or mazes. It took a photo tour in just one hour.

I can only show you the guide map and photos to enjoy the panoramic view.

Based on our abilities, we can only provide partial detailed photos for everyone. Please brainstorm on your own.

Can you see the design of half water and half land at the core location - Zhongchi? Let's make do with it

This is the highest point we can reach in the village, but the goose...... I can't see anything......

It's good for everyone to appreciate Huizhou style ancient dwellings from their perspective, so let's reluctantly adjust our mindset..... But the ticket price is also too expensive......

Many years ago, I went to Shuanglong Cave and vaguely remember that there were only Shuanglong Cave and Binghu Cave at that time. However, when I came back with my husband this time, I found that this place had already become a scenic area, with many caves that I had never heard of before emerging. Anyway, they were all kinds of caves, and I needed to take a shuttle bus for sightseeing. It can be imagined how much the area has increased. Since we are not staying overnight in Jinhua, we are unable to visit the entire scenic area in terms of time. Therefore, we have decided not to buy a ferry ticket and will decide on our own physical strength and time to choose between the Shuanglong Cave and the curling pot cave.

For our generation, Mr. Ye Shengtao's travelogue is too deeply ingrained in people's hearts (I don't know if he still has this exercise in elementary school texts now), especially his description of the need to lie flat in a small boat when entering the cave, with the opposite staff pulling the boat through ropes and crossing the rocks that are about to touch the tip of the nose, and the sudden enlightenment he sees. The sense of immersion is extremely strong, making our curiosity explode for so many years!

Just barely call it the dock

I'm already lying flat with my husband

The manual tugboat has long been replaced by electric control, and the time it takes to traverse is so short that people don't even have time to feel the pressure of the rocks. The whole journey takes 18 seconds, but this experience is still unique and worth trying.

The remaining scenery is just like all cave tours, with various imaginations and similarities. Use all the cells in your brain to imagine.

Connected to Shuanglong Cave is the curling pot cave with the highest drop waterfall inside.

In addition to these two caves, with our good physical strength, we finally hurriedly browsed through "Taoyuan Cave" and "Erxian Cave" in the shortest time possible. Both are similar caves, and the advantage lies in the large size of the caves and the lack of tourists. "Erxian Cave" was "wrapped up" by the two of us, giving us the illusion of exploring and tomb raiding.

You can choose your own travel projects based on your time and physical strength.

This day is the most closely arranged day for sightseeing. Stay in Lishui City in the evening. Before arriving, check out Jinyun, which is very popular on the Internet, to taste the famous Jinyun Shaobing (Baked cake in griddle), and to see the ancient folk houses of Heyang, which are also Hui style buildings.

Even if I just went to Zhuge Bagua Village that day, even if the style is similar, I will tell you that Heyang is definitely a village that can't be missed. It has more beautiful Hui style buildings, freshly baked Jinyun Shaobing (Baked cake in griddle), and simple folk customs. The key is to visit for free. Everything is worth visiting.

Isn't this architectural complex, this reflection, fragrant?

A white wall stained with gold by the sunset

The grand auditorium in the village is full of a sense of era

Iconic backpack back photos that will definitely appear everywhere

The freshly made Jinyun Shaobing (Baked cake in griddle) is really fragrant, although it has never been eaten before!

Arriving in Lishui before dinner, this small prefecture level city surprised me one after another, making it one of my favorite cities on this trip for three reasons.

Surprise One: An unprecedentedly large night market. I really didn't expect to see a long-awaited large-scale night market here, occupying two streets with bright lights, a wide range of products, and a wide range of food, clothing, and entertainment. It feels like a return to the era of reading.

Regardless of the quality of things, even walking purely within them feels incredibly joyful.

Surprise 2: The scenery of the Ou River. Lishui City has created a waterfront fitness and leisure landscape belt on both sides of the Oujiang River, perfectly combining modern architecture with ancient city gates, towers, and walls. Whether during the day or at night, it can highlight its unique features and become a beautiful business card of Lishui City. We both deeply feel the joy brought by this dedication.

At night, various landscape lights illuminate both sides of the Ou River. The shore is divided into two levels of platforms. The upper level is a fitness track for cycling and running, while the lower level is a hydrophilic platform for sightseeing and walking.

The next day is our morning running time, running on such a luxurious and open shore injects strong energy into the dull running.

The ancient city gate passed by while running.

Surprise 3: Breakfast at the hotel. The reason for choosing the Hilton Hotel in Lishui is mainly because it is located in the city center, about one kilometer away from the Oujiang River, and the morning running distance is suitable. The room and facilities are average. But the breakfast the next day gave us a big surprise. The dining location is on the top floor of the hotel, with a 360 degree floor to ceiling landscape glass. What surprised us the most was a rotating restaurant, and the breakfast time also activated the rotating mode. It was surprising that the complimentary breakfast could receive such treatment.

The entire city of Lishui has a panoramic view. Having a sumptuous breakfast in such a wonderful restaurant after exercising is simply amazing.

On the way to Wenzhou, I took a check in to the top scenic spot in Lishui - Guyan Painting Village. It is a place with history and scenery. Although not stunning, for Lishui, it must have a name!

The scenic area is like a microcosm of the scenery in Jiangnan, with beautiful mountains and waters, light clouds and breeze, and a slightly misty morning mist. The green or golden colors of early autumn are painted on the scroll, giving it the name of the picturesque hometown. As an ancient water conservancy project, there are not many remaining parts of Tongji Dam. Even after being renovated, the rough outline of the project can still be seen, which has given future generations a more comprehensive understanding and admiration for the wisdom of the ancients.

Wenzhou, is this the world-renowned Yandang Mountain

The last stop within Zhejiang Province was chosen in Wenzhou, because its only natural scenery, Yandang Mountain, is renowned for its beautiful peaks and strong ornamental value. I have been there a few years ago, but I just can't recall any memorable details, as can be seen... But my husband is so eager to take this opportunity to see the famous mountains!

Yandang Mountain is composed of numerous scenic spots of various sizes, and unless there is enough time, it is basically impossible to go there. Most tourists choose well-known scenic spots for one to two days to visit. Based on the time, we initially planned to spend two and a half days visiting four scenic spots: Dalongqiu, Lingfeng, Sanzhe Waterfall, and Fangdong. However, from the introduction of the homestay owner, we learned that Dalongqiu and Sanzhe Waterfall are both famous for their water and are currently in a dry season, which has basically lost their playability. Therefore, we decisively removed them. And Fangdong and Lingfeng became our only two choices, one of which was also included in the second pit of our itinerary.

The characteristic of the Fangdong scenic spot is the excavation of plank roads in the mountain walls for people to walk on, and the iron cable bridge connecting the mountains. The entire hiking process has highlights and fun, without any feeling of fatigue or boredom, making it a surprising attraction in Yandang Mountain.

It's a bit like a suspended temple

It is said that Lingfeng is the soul of Yandang Mountain, especially for night tours. Therefore, my husband is willing to purchase two tickets for day and night shows to prepare for a good tour.

Five o'clock in the evening is the dividing point of the day and night scenes. I entered the scenic area before five o'clock and headed straight to the only Guanyin Temple built in the mountain. This is also the only memory of my visit to Yandang Mountain. At 5:30, the temple closed, and we ran and climbed all the way to Guanyin Temple. After taking photos and checking in, we went down the mountain again. Although we were in a hurry, it was the only attraction that we felt could afford the tickets.

Guanyin Temple is hidden in that mountain crevice.

The angle taken from the temple downwards.

It was already late when we went down the mountain.

After the start of night time, groups of tourist groups flocked in. In fact, the size of the entire Lingfeng Scenic Area is equivalent to a street park, with an island in the middle. There is no lighting in the scenic area, and dozens of travel groups crowded the entire scenic area. You can imagine thousands or even hundreds of people in a dark central park, circling around the island, with dozens of tour guides waving laser pens and repeating the same words over and over again. Individual travelers here don't even need to find their own tour guides. Each tour guide's uniform introductions are intertwined and sent to your ears, making it difficult even if you don't want to listen. After being forced to listen dozens of times, congratulations on being able to immediately take up the post and become a qualified tour guide in Lingfeng Scenic Area.

The explanation is nothing more than the old routine, it's like a whale, with its mouth on the right and tail on the left, and the water it sprays out on top....... balabala。。。。。。。

This is the peak with Guanyin Temple built during the day, and it is also the sign and representative of the entire Yandang Mountain scenic area. During the day, it looks like a clasped palm, and at night, it becomes a man and a woman embracing each other.

The fee for such a slap in the face scenic spot is as follows: if you enter the scenic spot before 5 pm, purchase a daytime ticket, and then leave the scenic spot after 5 pm, you must purchase a night ticket. The ticket prices are 45 yuan each, for a total of 90 yuan per person. Fortunately, thanks to the year-round Couple's Day activities held in the scenic area, presenting a marriage certificate (which can be replaced by a photo) and an ID card can enjoy half the price. The two spent a total of 90 yuan. My husband was trapped in this scenic area, feeling chest tightness and shortness of breath. He decisively announced the end of his tour of Yandang Mountain!

There are not many tourist attractions in Wenzhou city, so the itinerary is very relaxed, and there is also time for running by the Oujiang River.

Wuma Street is the most famous pedestrian street in Wenzhou.

Wenzhou doesn't have particularly stunning dishes, and snacks are more attractive than regular meals.

If there is a long person, there must be a dwarf to match, so this dwarf pastry shop was established

It is similar to the Rice and vegetable roll in Shanghai, but I don't know why it is so famous in Wenzhou. Not only outsiders flock to it, but also local people choose it for breakfast.

Our trip to Zhejiang has come to a successful end, and we will take the high-speed rail to Fujian Province. Stay tuned for my 2020 family trip episode - Fujian Chapter.

~Perhaps you will feel that my travelogue lacks the temptation of delicious food.... Because my husband and I are both fitness enthusiasts and have some reservations about our diet, we are a bit picky. We have a basic rhythm of two meals a day, and apart from the hotel breakfast, there is only one main meal left. There are no extra meals or snacks, so the introduction of food will be more specific.

~Perhaps you would think that my travelogue lacks check-in at internet celebrity stores... After many attempts, internet celebrity stores have become synonymous with nothing in my mind. I really can't bear to waste my extremely precious travel time on the queues of various disappointing internet celebrity stores. After a lazy and waiting wait, half of the precious day has passed. However, I spent the same amount of time running around West Lake, tasting a sumptuous breakfast, and switching to another city, enriching and enriching, without wasting any minutes. For me, the meaning of travel is to travel.

~Perhaps you would think that my travelogue lacks detailed descriptions of famous attractions, or simply lacks them... Famous attractions are never lacking in various introductions and praises, they don't require my icing on the cake. My travelogue, on the other hand, is written through reflection and organization after my travels, aiming to convey the most authentic information to everyone as much as possible, no longer limited to journal entries and general discussions.

I remember in the previous Ningbo travelogue, I swore to abandon personal preferences and objectively describe what I saw and heard. After writing this, I immediately slapped my face. This is a travelogue with strong personal preferences, but it is definitely my true feelings. Please understand.