[ Starry Starry ]

bright

I had a dream,

Even if the water in the West Lake is dry,

The lake bottom is full of stars.
Just a few days ago,

A wonderful eight-handed combination,

Gather too much starlight,

It's like pouring the Milky Way on the dining table.

I ate that dream,

I still don't want to wake up.

Can you imagine the vast harmony presented by Jiangsu, Zhejiang, South China, Southern Fujian, and Nordic tastes on the same stage? That night, Seven, chef of modern Cantonese cuisine at Yue·Yuè in Guangzhou; Yu Ning, chef of Sanyangge at La Villa in Hangzhou; Chen Zhiping, chef of Yu Bund in Shanghai; and Wang Bin, executive chef of The Georg Restaurant at Yuhe No. 1, jointly presented a unique style and inspired feast in Hangzhou.

They all came for Dom Pérignon Champagne. Like me, they were chasing the power of 2012 champagne, the elegant maturity of 2003 champagne PLÉNITUDE 2, and the ideal structure of 2006 pink champagne... I saw the signature smile of Lu Yang, the only Chinese sommelier in the world, and the tall back of the famous gourmet restaurant Feige, I thought that the excellent wine mix that night would surely demonstrate extraordinary complexity, balance and unfinished meaning!

This "Taste the Time, Create Everything and Create the New" dinner was full of stars and slowly kicked off by the dreamlike West Lake. Antoine Varlet, Vice President and Chief Marketing Officer of Moet Hennessy Diageo China Marketing Department, delivered a speech. Champagne glasses collided brightly, and star-studded celebrity chefs and good friends came to accompany her. In my cup, there was a sea of stars crossing through! Those poems sung by the ancients to the stars also converge with the fine wine, ancient and modern, and pour into the five senses.

The same stars are different. When talking about horoscopes, everyone often has a lot of excitement. The key lies in "personality". Champagne is also precious in this regard, which makes it possible to have the tension to match the excitement of this eight-handed joint play!

As David introduced Dom Pérignon Vintage 2012 (hereinafter referred to as P1),"Everyone has just started drinking champagne outside where the temperature is not too high, and actually have realized the power of this wine and its penetration. In 2012, in fact, among several high-quality vintages, the Tang Perignon P1 was quite prominent, and it was also our first appearance."

Spring in Hangzhou is suddenly warm and still cold, which goes well with this wine. Just like the scene described in a Song Dynasty poem, I dreamed that I witnessed the depletion of the sea and turned into farmland, and saw the Milky Way in the sky, where there were sea breeze and waves.

The first chapter specially features three dishes to accompany Dom Perignon's 2012 champagne.

I glanced at the black menu at my hand, and as I said, I looked at the menu as if I had not seen the menu. It was like a discovery game.

This dinner party also hopes that we use the concept of time, or this perspective, to interpret every ingredient.

Yue Yuè Seven (Chen Xiaodong), chief chef of modern Cantonese cuisine at Black Pearl Erzuan Restaurant, used traditional Guangzhou hospitality and greeted everyone with soup. This soup is made of a popular seafood soup. The freshness and champagne are combined to stimulate the fragrance of flowers.

Jumping over the tide (Yue·Yuè Modern Cantonese Cuisine Chef Chen Xiaodong)

Because P1 has a very bright and beautiful acidity, after adding a few drops of fresh lemon juice to the soup, there is a balance of pairing. "It's like a fun game that opens up the dialogue between food and wine."

Nowadays, the boundaries between Chinese and Western food are becoming increasingly blurred. Whether it is Western food cooked in the middle or Chinese and Western food, the gene of delicious food and drink is an unchanging pursuit.

Fuguang Day and Night (Yu Ning, Chef of Sanyangge, Hangzhou)

Next, Yu Ning, chief chef of the Black Pearl Two Diamond Restaurant, La Villa Sanyangge, appeared. It was natural that Sanyangge cooked French Chinese food. Although using the techniques and elements of French cuisine, Yu Ningcai's DNA still wants to express the feeling of Jiangnan. He combines three different textures of blacks: one is the black color of custard with cuttlefish sauce, one is caviar from Qiandao Lake in Hangzhou, and one is crispy seaweed. The three blacks are combined together, and the custard with cuttlefish sauce, Zhoushan small squid and seaweed crispy slices form a unique scene on the tip of the tongue. They are interspersed with seafood and have delicate thoughts.

After eating this bite, then drinking the wine. It is a wonderful fruit sweetness. The food is really so magical." The magic of wine matching is displayed in these details.

Inch Core Flying (Chef Wang Bin of The Georg in Beijing)

Wang Bin (Bin Bin), executive chef of The Georg restaurant, who has won one-star glory three consecutive times, also spares no effort to pursue exquisiteness in his interpretation of the ingredients. Bin Bin was unique. Two methods of palm cores were hidden in the tape. One was cut into dice and pickled with apple cider vinegar. The other one is slow-roasted and beaten into a sauce and sweet.

The net-like pattern in front of you is made with raspberry blackcurrant oil and several jam fruits such as raspberries and blueberries. After making the jam, it is air-dried in a mold to increase a little acidity and match this P1.

Bin Bin said that he liked the P1 wine the most during the entire research and development."It has a rich taste, a strong fruit flavor, and a refined acidity in it. Combine scallops, palm cores and sweetness for a match, and then use ham to reflect the salty and fresh scallops. I hope to fully utilize the sweetness of these three ingredients."

There are usually two grape varieties that people drink, one is Chardonnay and the other is Pinot Noir. In fact, they are two grapes with very strong contrasting styles. Then, because in a year like 2012, the quality of both grapes is very high, this opposition and contrast are particularly obvious in this year's 2012. "It may seem difficult to integrate, but in fact, a state of unity and harmony can be achieved. So Dom Perignon's 2012 champagne also uses explosive harmony to describe it. In each quadrant of it, various aromas and flavors are actually very cleverly blended together, very harmonious.

The second chapter menu paired with Dom Perignon 2003 Champagne PLÉNITUDE 2 (hereinafter referred to as P2) is something I am very much looking forward to because it is a "drink and cherish" level.

David introduced: "In fact, one of the friends present here has a special say in the matter of meal and wine matching. This friend is our Chinese light, Master of Sommelier, our eternal master Lu Yang. Regarding the talk about catering arrangements, he felt that one word was particularly good for his knowledge and understanding of P2, which is that today's dinner party is time and inheritance. These two points are one of the essence of P2.

Taking a sip of P2 into the heart is different from the intensity of P1. The timeless time is like the Song Dynasty saying "Three Thousand Songs of the Milky Way", followed by pairs of flying herons, circling on the blue waves, with a long aftertaste.

Lu Yang said: "When we go to drink, we often hear a question asking if the wine has woken up? If a wine takes 20 years to reach its peak state, it usually takes two hours to wake up. Champagne may have another dimension to the timing of other red wines and white wines. Because we know that during the fermentation process, champagne ages in the bottle after secondary fermentation with the wine mash. After time of precipitation and contact with yeast, champagne will have a more complex expression, and at the same time, it will be youthful under the protection of yeast."

"The P1 we just talked about should theoretically be about 8 years old on yeast, and when it comes to P2, it will be about 12 to 15 years. When it comes to P3, it will take 25 to 30 years. This aging time is irreplaceable. The P1 was brewed in 2003 and was shipped around 2011. It is difficult to find the 2013 P1 on the market now. But in fact, this wine has more aging potential. So Richard, the chief winemaker at the time, said that we must have more time in the wine cellar and age more, so that our consumers and people who love drinking can realize another dimension of Don Perignon and enter another dimension."

"So with the emergence of our P2 and P3, I think time is very touching for me. After so many years, P2 presents different things. When it comes to inheritance, it's even more different. Champagne people have a very important concept of inheritance. The chief winemaker of Dom Perignon in 2013 is Richard Geoffroy. When he took office in 1990, Champagne from the ages of 85, 88 and 89 were all made by his predecessor. After his 18-year retirement, Vincent Chaperon (currently chief winemaker of Don Perignon) passed on his work to P3. In the 2003 P2, his understanding and creation are also included, which is inheritance. Moreover, this inheritance is difficult to see in other worlds.

"2002 was actually a great year for Champagne this century. If you can remember, 2003 was a very hot year in Europe, and we have always said it was an issue we must pay attention to. Then you just saw that 2003 was The year changed everything, which means that 2003 was the year that really made the chief winemaker realize the seriousness of this problem."

Through Lu Yang's introduction, I learned that 2003 was an early year for the champagne harvest. It was dry and hot, and almost no champagne brands would produce a vintage of champagne in 2003. The hotter and drier does not mean that you can't make good champagne. And this kind of daily climate change is getting hotter and hotter, and Don Perignon has the courage to face and try this problem. This is a spirit of courage to challenge.

"The 2003 P2 is one of the most viscous years in the history of Dom Perignon to drink, and the most fruity and ripe year. It highlights the fact that it does not depend on its acidity, but on its 62% Pinot Noir. It has the highest Pinot Noir content in the entire history of Dom Perignon. Now when we drink the 2003 P2 again, we will feel that the fat feeling of 2012 has been removed. Now the outline is more obvious, the structure is clearer, and it smells like dried pineapple and dried apricot. You even feel a little chewy when you drink it. Therefore, I think it is a very meaningful year, representing one of the essence of Don Perignon: time and inheritance, and it is also an innovation and adventure in 2003 for world changes. P2 feels complex and profound, and at the same time quite young." In the end, Lu Yang also wished the ladies all over the place that, like P2, they were both profound and complex, while remaining young.

Four Seasons of Mountains and Seas (Meeting Chef Chen Zhiping on the Bund)

I have been looking forward to the dish of Shanghai's first Michelin Young Chef Award winner and Michelin one-star restaurant to meet Chef Chen Zhiping on the Bund. It really allowed me to find the match between the chewiness of betel nut and taro and P2, and the delicacy and richness inside are also due to the solid structure of the champagne.

Brother Fei said when introducing that time will be like our memories and cannot be touched, but many times it will remind us of it all the time. Just like this dish, Master Chen is from southern Fujian and uses Penang taro, which is popular among southern Fujian people, as a representative of the mountain. As a place with a mountain facing the sea, he used abalone to represent one of the flavors of the sea. The sauce used to stew pork belly made the taro full of meat flavor, which was also a gift of time. We think it is quite extravagant to just use the middle piece to shape it with a knife and place a slowly simmered abalone under it. The whole taste is a selection of all the geographical foods that have a profound impact on his culture in memory. As a dialogue between our mountains and seas, let us experience Tang Perignon's P2 in this way."

Condensing Time (Yue·Yuè Modern Cantonese Cuisine Chef Chen Xiaodong)

Tomato beef once appeared in Wong Kar-wai's movies, which is also a taste familiar to many Lao Guang. Seven often allows many diners with Lingnan cultural complex to find some memories of the past of Cantonese cuisine from his newly presented dishes.

In the ketchup sauce, in order to match the yeast flavor in P2, a fermentation similar to the tomatoes in the mountains of Guizhou was made and then added to the sauce. I hope to awaken the flavor of fermentation in P2 through the taste of fermentation. Drinking alcohol after just a bite of meat, the flavor of toast felt in the mouth is actually brought by yeast. Similar flavors superimposed in the wine body will immediately become more obvious. Just as we often say it is an initiator, how to make good use of the taste of food left in the mouth after it is used as an initiator for the next sip of wine. This is the most interesting table wine pairing I find, and it is also the most wonderful way to drink it.

Those thoughts that are easily invisible, such as the powder after drying tomato skins and the traditional habit of using only the onion as a spice in Cantonese cuisine to stir-fry tomatoes, are all the secrets of this dish being "simple and extraordinary".

Later, Master Chen and Seven collaborated on "Good Fortune", and it was not until the day before the dinner that they were satisfied with. This dish originated from a four-handed play of modern Cantonese cuisine at Heyue Yuè on the Bund five years ago, with the theme of a ginger duck. Both celebrity chefs are breaking through themselves and paying tribute to each other in an integrated way. It's a ginger duck, but it looks like this is not a traditional ginger duck at all. This is the most interesting place. The texture of the duck has the appearance of a roast goose in Cantonese cuisine, with a sweet aroma of crispy skin. The ginger slices of the ginger duck are made into rolls, which are very delicate.

Yoshiguang Pianyu (Yue·Yuè Modern Cantonese Cuisine Chef Chen Xiaodong meets Bund Chef Chen Zhiping)

The collision of inspiration between the two is like P2, which uses its unique mineral sense to give the ginger duck its "second life". Unconsciously, the P2 in his hand faded in laughter.

Dom Perignon's 2006 Pink Champagne is actually my favorite meal accompaniment and it is also a regular item at home! Just like Liu Yong, a romantic genius in the Song Dynasty, said,"Where the eyes are at the extreme, the clouds are dark, and the Milky Way is high." Drinking Dom Pérignon Rosé Vintage 2006 can also feel the romance of the clouds floating across the Milky Way in the high night sky, and the pride of the bright Milky Way hanging high.

The introduction during the banquet gave another metaphor that made me laugh. Usually, we feel that it is very powerful and we may not be able to match some ideas and ingredients of champagne. We can try it on pink champagne and achieve it! This pink champagne represents that Don Perignon is more adventurous and breaks through the boundaries of our imagination. Drinking pink champagne feels like Taking you by the hands and taking a leap of faith. Pick up the pink champagne in our hands, take your hand, and we leap together. This means that the next dishes may be bolder!

Into the sea in a moment (Yu Ning, Chef of Sanyangge, Hangzhou)

Yu Ning chose Jinji fish for this dish, a fish that contains a lot of freshness and oil. Grilled and crispy over charcoal fire brings a good pyrotechnic aroma and also brings the oil from the fish to the surface. Not only does it taste oily and fragrant, but the sauce is also unique. It is boiled with several main ingredients of tom yum, such as citronella and ginger. In order to match the color of pink champagne, red mushrooms were specially selected to present a color, which was also a deep tone.

Paired with pink champagne, I hope to bring you more wonderful experiences. Fei Ge reminds everyone not to miss the spring bamboo shoots specially prepared by Yu Ning. He used mushrooms and bacon to make a glutinous rice and brew it in it. Next to it is Hangzhou's unique cabbage. This is a kind of pickled vegetables. It is a kind of pickled vegetables that are pickled deeply and can bring more flavor.

Pink Champagne's better support and space for dialogue with food have been given more play in terms of compatibility. We have been saying that pink champagne brings us more imagination about serving wine. This is one of the experiences, bringing more sweetness and fruit aroma.

Spring Festival picking up green (Meet Chef Chen Zhiping on the Bund)

The next dish became even more fragrant. Master Xiao Chen used sand tea from his hometown to make a shrimp head soup with a very southern Fujian flavor, and then the bottom layer of the bowl was jade tofu. The knife for picking up the meat of the spotted shrimp turned into the snow-white shrimp we saw on the surface. Shrimp balls. The dots of green are fresh broad beans that have just been put on the market, and finally use the faint aroma of sand tea to set off the fruit aroma of the pink champagne.

Pink champagne represents romance, and Bin Bin is indeed romantic. Choose high-quality mutton from new Zealand, which is full of flavor but not fishy. On the one hand, he added fennel and cumin to the mutton shoulder meat and simmered it for 48 hours. The mutton shoulder meat combines sweet, sour, spicy and other flavors. The round peppers inside are pickled with apple cider vinegar, and then Fengshui pear slices are used to bring about sweetness and fruity flavor. On the other side, Master Wang Bin put the fried sheep rack under the insulation lamp and slowly baked it. Before serving, it is smoked with apple wood, which is popular among Beijingers, and finally added with a little jumping sugar and some French mixed spices. It also looks beautiful.

Scenery outside the Great Wall (Chef Wang Bin of The Georg in Beijing)

Although the last dessert was a blind box that was not originally on the menu, it was amazing and came from Yu Ning. The ice cream made of Brada cheese is wrapped in thick Lin 'an pecan, and bird's nest is mixed into it to give it a refreshing tooth feel. Pistachios are made into "willow leaves", and there are crispy original pecan grains at the bottom to enhance the aroma.

Spring Ying Fu Liu (Yu Ning, Chef of Hangzhou Sanyan Pavilion)

This made all the sweethearts on the scene immersed in the multi-level taste dream of pink. The last song "West Lake", which we admire, begins this interstellar travel with a long aftertaste after the starry night dinner by the West Lake.

There are many well-known starry night dinners in the world. Even if I am not in Australia at the moment, I can't go to Iceland. But this time, Dom Pérignon's "Taste of Time and Create a New Life" dinner party is like a galaxy falling on the dining table, on the edge of the West Lake. The starry sky scattered by the nine miles of cloud pine trees is unprecedented vastness!

The goddess asked

Which Xiangtan do you like?

"Don't sing the song of everlasting regret from those days,

There is also a Milky Way in the world."

--Qing Dynasty: Yuan Mei's Ma Wei

Food Bless You!

Consultant for China International Food Expo

Producer of "God's Table"