[ Food Market]
food market
Everyone has strange problems,
I'm not a housewife,
But they call them "mother-in-law",
The spirit of a housewife that tortures her daughter-in-law,
Always in my heart.
One day, a friend discussed depression with me and said that the patient became pregnant when he thought of eating, let alone alive. I said, then we should take people to visit the vegetable market.
Look at the chicken whose knees are red, the back of its paws is straight and upright, and its butt is still raised at 60 degrees; look at the fat white skin, the completely exposed flesh patterns, and the wild breath in the pores is hanging on the tip of the nose with the dim light; look at the small dish heart that is just about to be bloomed, rolling down a pool of dew. The vegetable vendor still smiles and swings his waist behind the person, allowing these lively droplets of water to slide down one after another, so that he can seduce the living beings passing by. Everyone passing by, even if they are dead souls, will inevitably have something to love.
If you have a love for food markets, you will understand my obsession: when traveling abroad, I would choose between scenic spots and food markets, and I would resolutely choose food markets. Last year, I went to the Torvehallerne Market in Copenhagen, Denmark. I still remember the Gedder porridge shop, Palaio restaurant, Harrennis sandwich, Bernholm store, Summer Sparrow, The coffee collective and Tante T. Shopping in famous brands in a department store makes me feel refreshed. The world's famous food markets are food museums and my ideal place to check in for travel.
I regret not visiting the vegetable market in front of my house earlier. He is the master of private kitchens in Hangzhou. I heard that he has a "private fresh fishing" route. In order to eat good food, I started working as a female paparazzi from 6 a.m.
Shen Minglei
Shen Minglei has a career of 35 years. He has been a chef family since he was a child. Since his grandfather, he has been a famous teacher in cooking red and white banquets in Fangyuan. Therefore, he has learned traditional skills from his two uncles since he was 15 years old. At the age of 17, he entered a scientific class to learn to cook, and his cooking talents were finally appreciated in major restaurants and hotels.
In 2000, he returned to his hometown of Hangzhou from Shanghai to run his own restaurant. The first restaurant only had more than 100 people. After two years of operation, it became more than 1000 people because the business was too popular. He has his consistent insistence that "to do it, you must have reputation and inheritance." In his words,"I have been doing it for more than ten years, and I have been cooking Hangzhou cuisine for 20 years." In May 2013, Shen Kitchen opened a private kitchen upstairs. It has always been a secret base for me to invite friends to dinner, but it may not be possible to book it.
Every day, he went to at least five markets to buy vegetables. For a female paparazzi like me who just wants to eat, this is too sick.
Because of my craving, I accompanied the chef to five markets!
Internet celebrities rely on their faces, while private kitchens upstairs become popular because of their legs. It is Chef Shen who runs five food markets in the morning to collect fresh food from Anji, Baibai, Deqing, Pingyao, Liangzhu, Qiaosi and Haining. I said, the dragon dragon also escaped to death, let alone just a god woman.😂
"I want to go to the Jinjiang Vegetable Market. The seafood is very good. I want to go to the nearby vegetable market to collect soil, so my menu is not fixed. I don't have a favorite vegetable market in Hangzhou, each has its own advantages. I like to visit the surrounding areas. I am familiar with the good vendors. I tell me at 4-5 o'clock every day and I ask them to save the good ingredients. My menu is made of materials from all over the world. Occasionally, I go to the riverside to collect fresh river food. Under the Third Bridge of the Qianjiang River, across the river, these fishermen sell it as soon as they catch it. They usually have it before 9 o'clock. They have to be robbed and whatever they have."
"Will the goddess go?"
"Go, go!"
At seven o'clock in the morning, I came to the Qiantang River with my panda eyes open. That was Chef Shen's first stop. The river breeze blew my face, and I swayed down the dam. From time to time, the voice of "Cherish life and pay attention to safety" came from the dam. The fisherman said that the position I was standing at this time would be completely submerged by 1 o'clock in the afternoon, and my legs became soft. I was lucky that the small fishing boat I caught just landed. Chef Shen said that the rivers here were all wild and firsthand.
After this year's fishing ban, I heard from Chef Shen that there are fewer fish than in previous years, especially river perch, which may be related to typhoons. The tide is turbid and difficult to fish. It is really edible and rare.
Qiantang River
The intersection of Xixing Road and No. 1 Branch Road in Binjiang District
As long as Chef Shen orders something, the fishermen know that they want the best quality. After weighing, they will be sent to the trunk. That is a friendship for many years.
Jinjiang Seafood Market(Because it will be closed at the end of the year, it is temporary and has no door)
Jingmoye Tangbei Village (No. 33, Lane 1, Qiutao Road, Uptown)
Here, I can't overemphasize it to call it Tsukiji Market in Hangzhou. It turns out that before the government demolished it, Chef Shen said that he would buy seafood here in the early morning and could have a delicious seafood noodle breakfast when he went out. But now, the small traders have dispersed, leaving only the big traders who "had to leave". But no matter what, this is still a check-in place for major catering owners every day.
Jinjiang Market Menkou
The owner of the crab shop is the most comfortable. He owns a small air-conditioned private room. His stall is simply a high-end nightclub in the entire seafood district. Later, when I inquired, I learned that crabs would die if they didn't install air conditioners.
The boss wants to sleep with the highest-level goods, but it's not worth mentioning if the electricity bill for the "nightclub" is expensive.
In the blink of an eye, I arrived at the stall that I couldn't bear to look straight at. I looked at the most "beautiful" one on the right. The landlady selling geoduck said that the three goods looked similar to the layman, but the prices were actually quite different. The crispy meat in the middle is white and the most expensive; the crispy meat on the left is brown, second; the crispy meat on the right is not crispy, the meat is white, but the cheapest. It seems that the taste is still in the top order, and high-end diners know how to appreciate the "powerful party" best.
In addition to these, you can buy bamboo pole razors as thick as a thumb, fragrant snails like earlobes, extremely vivid tide watchers and shrimps, and tender green water chestnut horns picked up at four o'clock in the morning.
No matter what season it is, even if Chef Shen named for five or six years old ham, the bosses can find it here as long as they want it.
This is only halfway through the shopping. I told Chef Shen, it's okay. I had breakfast with you. It was much more tiring than visiting a department store.
Sanliting agricultural and sideline products market
📍Zhuyuan West, Gansanli New City (No. 117-19, Gujiafan Road, Jianggan District)
On the way to Sanliting, Chef Shen took me to a fresh stinky tofu shop. All the "stinky goods" were fresh, and fresh stinky tofu could be bought there. For the first time, I realized that stinky tofu had the best taste period., just the right amount of stinky tofu, and it would be more delicious when eaten.
There are many high-end local goods in the store, including cabbage bamboo shoots, dried radish, and vegetable putou, all of which are what Lao Glutton likes. Seeing that I refused to leave, Chef Shen reminded me to "be in the kitchen before 10 o'clock." I thought to myself, I will definitely come here and take a closer look. There is nothing difficult in the world, as long as I have a few more times.
Sanliting is an old market. I had it when I was a child. Chef Shen said that he mainly came here to buy Deqing's river and lake fresh.
The white strips in the waves were as bright as a knife, and dazzled my eyes. Looking carefully, I found that there were scattered strips of different sizes in each grid, because they were all caught freshly. Chef Shen sighed and said,"I can only make pre-customization."
"The aquatic products here are wild, most of them are fished in reservoirs, and are of good quality. Diners really need to eat fish by fate." The chef, a living person, does not choose, and the live fish selection cannot clarify the final mermaid selection.
The other two markets are both near the private kitchen upstairs, and we all stroll around the water. I bought chickens in Jinhuili with Chef Shen. That place is a treasure place for chicken lovers. All of them were privately ordered and killed live.
Today's Huinong Products
Building 4, Jinghui Garden, Jichang Road, Jianggan District
Jishen Farmers 'Market
Building 10, Dongmao Garden, No. 28, Jichang Road, Jianggan District
It was the first time I saw fresh peach gum bought at Jishen Farmers 'Market. Chef Shen said,"I'll make a fortune when I encounter it."
smelly mandarin fish
pickles
manual mantou
tender lotus root
Mustard
The menu is different every day.
This summer, before the best Dragon Boat Festival for eels, I had the honor to go upstairs to have a meal. I remember that the eel looked so proud that day.
I said, can you still eat such good rice eel? Chef Shen said, wait until next year. Season, there is nothing we can do.
"There are many old recipes for eel, such as eel paste, fried eel with shrimp, and shredded eel. They are all very old dishes. This is the case in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces. To make a pot, the pork, dried bamboo shoots, and rice eel, it's delicious."
Any classic dish for all kinds of eel dishes can be cooked by Chef Shen upstairs. "The Hangzhou method of frying shrimp and eel is to fry it and burn noodles. I made an improvement. Last time, Jin Yong's son was brought here by a friend and came to eat this bowl of noodles in the morning." The food here is classic rather than traditional.
I have loved eating shrimp fried eels since I was a child, and I couldn't help but ask how to choose eels. Chef Shen didn't mind my long-winded remarks. He explained in detail: "Eels are suitable for making eel paste. Slightly thicker eels, if the knife is pulled open and the bones are removed, are suitable for making shrimps and fried eels." If it is crispy, it will be gone if the meat is not thick. When making shredded eels, it will be slippery. He does not recommend any thicker eels.
"I'm selecting eels. Generally, I won't choose the thick ones, but will choose the thin ones. It's all wild and unrealistic. Summer is the most time, but spring is rare. For eels as thin as a finger, the ones with a short breeding cycle should be needed. I don't recommend thick eels. I choose very thin eels. There are wild ones this season, and the eels before Dragon Boat Festival are the fattest. What is cooked is boiled water, add salt and very strong vinegar, pour live eels into it, scalm it well, and take it out after the blood clots in your stomach are consolidated. It will be ready in a few minutes. Heavy salt and very strong vinegar remove the sticky things on the skin. It is equivalent to frying, and the meat is firm. When the salt water goes down, the shredded eels taste very slippery. Now it's rice bibimbap. Ning style shredded eel has been improved. Wang Yong (famous chef) eats this every time he comes. Huaiyang flavor. He also learned this before."
"The eel pot allows the eel to be thicker. We are also improving the cooking. Our soup is made from eel bones. If it is traditional, there is no soup."
In the private kitchen upstairs, the menu of every day is worth remembering, because maybe there will be no duplicate every other day.
Fortunately, on the first day of Hangzhou's local peanuts were on the market, river shrimp was fried with seeds, shrimp was fried with eel noodles in a wok with air, and pomfret was fried with tails raised. Me, burping.
The dried bamboo shoots and vegetable soup I drank at that time was spread and dried with dried bamboo shoots and nine headed mustard. It was so fresh that I had to buy and grab it.
When I mentioned how he understood Hangbang cuisine, Chef Shen said,"Hangzhou's 36 famous dishes are very old. Nowadays, this season of summer, steamed pork with lotus leaf flour, fried eel with shrimp, etc. are the Hangbang dishes in the book. The bacon is pickled in winter and cut into pieces. It is pickled and fresh. It is a spring vegetable. In autumn, the water shield, whip bamboo shoots, and scallops are stuffed up in the West Lake, and the whip bamboo shoots are fired. After a while, there will be green water chestnut lotus seeds and green water chestnut stir-fried chicken, which is not available in many restaurants. Times are changing, and my cooking here is different from outside. There is no fixed menu, and I cook it according to the taste and soul of the seasonal Hangbang cuisine."
"According to the season, river shrimps now come with seeds, so I will make some soy sauce to steam them. Before the hot weather, there were gold and silver hooves and salty pork feet. Gold and silver hooves were cooked with ham and fresh pork feet. I also had chicken feet at home. In the last version, I also had small intestine, and it wouldn't kill me."
For the fish that the chef is good at upstairs, regular customers most remember dry fried pomfret. Chef Shen chooses pomfret weighing 1 and a half to 2 kilograms. It looks like a very small one, but it is full of tricks inside. "The fat and shape of the meat must be considered. Choose the black pomfret in the East China Sea. The white pomfret is relatively small, but the black pomfret is big. The white pomfret season is short. White pomfret is in March of the lunar calendar, and carp are best in April of the lunar calendar. I choose black pomfret, and I have a wide choice. They are available in both South Korea and the East China Sea. They are all chilled and not frozen."
I said, what about the epidemic?
"For long-term use, I took it in the refrigerator to freeze it at low temperature. The epidemic has little impact. After thawing the fish, soak it in salt water, dry it, and blow it with cold wind. After drying the fish, the meat will be firm. Apply a thin layer of raw flour, which looks like powder but not powder, not very thick, to ensure that the skin is crispy, and then no water is lost. Put it in a large oil pan and fry it."
I was completely shocked from the bottom of my heart that this meal was hard-won.
Chef Shen said,"Especially not, handmade products will be out of stock. For example, air-dried things made in winter will depend on the weather for food and cannot come out without the sun. For example, if the sea depends on the weather, there must be wind. I make my own fish and go to the river to collect things. If you receive good things this time, you may not have them next time. If you go according to the seasons, it will not be the same."
When the market was parting, Chef Shen was still looking at soft shell crabs. "This is the best time, but it also depends on luck." He said happily.
Everything is change, but it does not deviate from its origin.
The goddess asked
What food markets do you like?
"The most creative of mankind,
Be a push chef."
--Jerold
Food Bless You!
Consultant for China International Food Expo
Producer of "God's Table"
Previous Article:The beautiful Longjing Royal Village. Quyuan Guantu (Europe and America Center Store)