Night Tour of West Lake
UP ChinaTravel
2024-07-24 14:30:04
0Times

"Looking for laurels in the mountain temple in the middle of the moon, looking for the tide from the county pavilion, and visiting again today. "


I went to Hangzhou to give lectures last weekend, took a break from my busy schedule, and went on a night tour of the West Lake with my colleagues.


Hangzhou is known as the "Garden City". Whether it's going to Taoguang to taste Longjing, or walking on the bamboo trails in Yunqi; or going to Manjuelong in the fragrant osmanthus season, or going to Gushan to enjoy the proud frost and snow plum blossoms in the cold winter, Hangzhou has many elegant and good places to go. However, every time I visit Hangzhou, I still have to visit the West Lake, and the West Lake has never let me down.


The first time was when I was in middle school during the summer, when I visited my brother who was a soldier in Hangzhou and visited the West Lake together. I saw lotus leaves that touched the sky and lotus flowers that reflected the sun. The lotus and lotus leaves both came high out of the water, like a dancer wearing a long dress. A gust of wind blew, and the dancers really danced in the Nishang Feather Dance. At that time, I really realized the artistic conception of the June scenery of the West Lake in Yang Wanli's works,"the lotus leaves connecting the sky are infinitely green, and the lotus flowers reflecting the sun are particularly red." It was also at that time that we first learned that there were "Qu Yuan Wind Lotus" in the "Ten Scenes of West Lake". We came at the right time.


The second time I came to Hangzhou to visit the West Lake was with my girlfriend. I remember that it was a light rainy day. I was disappointed that the weather was not good, so I decided to buy a ticket and take a boat to the island in the middle of the lake, so as to take shelter from the rain on the boat. At that time, the lake was filled with mist and misty waves. The boat was slowly moving in the lake. Looking at the scenery on both sides of the lake, the scenery on both sides of the lake was hazy and looming. I remembered the most famous poem written about West Lake in history: "The water is shining and the clear is good. The mountains are bright and clear. It is strange that the sky is covered with rain. If you want to compare West Lake to West Lake, it is always appropriate to apply light makeup and heavy makeup." If it were not rainy, how could we experience the empty mountains and blurred smoke and water? How about you appreciate Su Zizhan's good saying of "telling the benefits of West Lake"?


In fact, the beautiful and elegant customs of the West Lake, like the vitality of Xi Shi, cannot be appreciated in one go. Take the "Ten Scenery Scenery","Spring Dawn on Su Causeway","Wind and Lotus on Qu Yuan","Autumn Moon on Pinghu", and "Broken Bridge and Remains of Snow", which require you to visit the lake in four different seasons. As for the "Nanping Evening Bell" and "Leifeng Sunset", when the sun sets in the west and the dusk is hazy, they must stop to see the afterglow of the sunset on the tower and listen to the melodious bell coming from the temple. At this time, time seemed to slow down. Tourists who follow the travel agency or travel in a hurry have no mood to appreciate it.


For another example, in the other ten scenic spots of the West Lake,"Hearing Orioles on the Willow Waves" focuses on the enjoyment of hearing and needs to be placed in them to listen to it. On the long embankment of the West Lake where willows are planted, you can listen to the singing and singing of the orioles in the willow forest, and you can hear the crisp and melodious words of the willow forest, but you can't see the bird. However,"Twin Peaks Inserted Clouds" focuses on visual impressions, so you must look at it from a distance, because the clouds with "Twin Peaks Inserted Clouds" are the steaming mist in the mountains, just like the grass color in early spring, which seems to be close but not seen from a distance. West Lake is really full of emotions and beauty everywhere.


We came to the West Lake this time after dinner and the moonlight was coming. I got off the taxi from the nearby side of the broken bridge and walked onto the Baidi. This is the eighth day of the lunar calendar. The moon is not full, but it does not seem like a hooked crescent moon that makes people feel cold. The first bright moon hangs obliquely, with silver waves splashing lightly, and the shadows of the trees on the ground are dancing, like floating water poles crossing each other. A gust of night wind blew, the willow branches fluttered, and the shadows on the ground instantly became vivid.


There was a faint yellow light around the broken bridge, lying on the water, like a fairyland in the night. When we got on the bridge, we naturally talked about Bai Niangzi and Xu Xian. Was the broken bridge at that time as crowded with tourists as it is today? I leaned out from the bridge and looked under the bridge. The water was calm. Xu Xian was here and spat out the immortal pill, right?


Legend has it that at that time, there were many shops along the West Lake, and the vendors were lively. When he was a child, Xu Xian and his family came to visit the West Lake. When they arrived at the Broken Bridge, they saw someone selling glutinous rice balls and shouted for them. Unexpectedly, the old man selling glutinous rice balls was dressed as a fairy. Seeing that Xu Xian had a Dharma destiny, he was preparing to cross Xu Xian. There was an immortal pill hidden in the glutinous rice balls and a bowl for him to eat. Unexpectedly, Xu Xian couldn't swallow the glutinous rice balls. The old man shouted "What a pity, what a pity" and lifted Xu Xian on both legs and stood upside down by the river. The glutinous rice balls slipped out of Xu Xian's mouth and fell into the lake. There happened to be a white snake and a crab under the bridge. They were both cultivating. When they saw Tangyuan, they all came to compete for food. The white snake swam quickly and first obtained the immortal pill, which increased its cultivation power for five hundred years. It finally took human form and transformed into a white lady. More than ten years later, it came to the human world to repay Xu Xian's kindness. The angry crab was Monk Fahai who later disrupted the marriage between Bai Niangzi and Xu Xian.


Looking back at the past five hundred years, I have cultivated a stop for once in this life. Because it was the place where Xu Xianbai first met Lady Xu Xianbai, the broken bridge under his feet became a sacred place in the hearts of the lover seekers, and it instantly became romantic. However, the ending between Xu Xian and Bai Niangzi was not perfect. Bai Niangzi was finally beaten back to her original shape by Fa Hai, transformed into a white snake, and suppressed under Lei Feng Tower by the lake opposite. Fahai still left a four-character verse at that time: "The water in the West Lake is dry, the river tide does not rise, the Leifeng Pagoda falls, and the white snake is born."


For hundreds of years, the West Lake water has never dried up, and the Qiantang River is still rising and falling every year. However, the Leifeng Tower has fallen, which is naturally a great pleasure. Lu Xun criticized Fa Hai in "On the Fall of Leifeng Pagoda":"Try to go to the fields and beaches of Wu and Yue to inquire about public opinion. Except for those who have a slight mental illness, who doesn't feel wronged for the White Lady? Don't blame Fahai for being too troublesome?"


In fact, the Leifeng Tower by the West Lake has been experiencing ups and downs over the past thousands of years. The earliest Leifeng Pagoda was built by Qian Chu, King of Wu and Yue in the early Northern Song Dynasty, and was rebuilt in the Southern Song Dynasty. At that time, the tower body was already resplendent, especially at dusk, reflecting the setting sun, so there was one of the ten scenic spots of the West Lake."Leifeng Sunset". The regime of the Southern Song Dynasty was weak, and the emperor did not want to forge ahead. After the Jin soldiers came to the border, he retreated to a corner of Hangzhou and continued to live a life of luxury in a paradise on earth with beautiful mountains and clear waters. Therefore, the poet Lin Sheng wrote a satirical poem "Outside the mountains, outside the buildings, when will the singing and dancing of the West Lake stop?" The warm wind makes tourists intoxicated, turning Hangzhou into Bianzhou."


The appearance of the scenery of "Lei Feng Sunset", Lin Sheng's "Green Mountains Outside the Mountains, Buildings Outside the Buildings", and Su Shi's "Want to Compare the West Lake to the West" prove that Hangzhou has been known as a paradise on earth for thousands of years, and the West Lake is one of them. Pearl, emperors are happy and do not miss Shu. The white embankment we are walking on can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty and has a lot of roots with the great poet Bai Juyi.


Bai Juyi once served as an official in Hangzhou and did many good things for the local area. In order to commemorate the poet, the people called Baisha embankment "White embankment". Bai Juyi also loved the landscape of the West Lake when he was in Hangzhou, and also left behind popular poems:

"To the north of Gushan Temple and the west of Jiating, the water surface is initially flat and the clouds are low.

In several places, early warblers compete to warm the trees, but which new swallows peck at the spring mud?

The messy flowers gradually attract the eyes, and only the shallow grass can have no hooves.

My favorite lake is not enough to travel eastward, but the green poplar and Yinli are white sand embankments."

The Baisha embankment in Bai Juyi's works is the Bai embankment we are walking on now; and the Gushan Temple mentioned in the poem is located in the Gushan Mountain at the southern end of the Bai embankment, the direction we want to go. It can be seen how much Bai Juyi liked the West Lake area at that time. Gushan also has a long history with another poet, he is Lin Bu, the "beautiful wife and crane son". Mr. He Jing lived in seclusion in the West Lake of Hangzhou, built a lonely mountain, and became addicted to growing plums and raising cranes. His two sentences in "Mountain Garden and Little Plum","The thin shadow slopes across the horizon, the clear water is clear, and the dark fragrance floats in the moon and dusk", are known as the song of plum blossoms through the ages. To this day, admiring plum blossoms on a lonely mountain is still an elegant thing to visit the West Lake in winter.


In addition to the White Causeway, the West Lake also has a Su Causeway, which is also famous. Like Baidi, Su Di was associated with another great literary hero, Su Dongpo, a talented writer of the Song Dynasty. Su Dongpo had a bumpy experience in politics, but this short bumpy experience also made him, allowing him to leave many masterpieces through the ages and occupy an immortal position in the history of literature. During the time when he was demoted to Hangzhou to serve as a general sentence, he expressed his love for the landscape of the West Lake. In addition to writing the most famous "Want to Compare West Lake to West" describing the West Lake, he also wrote many works about lakes and mountains, such as:

"Black clouds turn over ink but not cover the mountains, and white rain jumps into the ship.

The wind blowing on the ground suddenly blows away, and the water from Wanghu Tower is like the sky."


A white embankment and a Su embankment made the people of Hangzhou remember the kindness they brought to the local people. These two embankments are also the best viewing spots to appreciate the beautiful scenery of the West Lake. "The bright lake is green, the green mountains are surrounded by six bridges, and the smoke and water are locked by six bridges." These two green embankments are like bringing two beautiful garbles to the West Lake. On these embankments, amidst willows, six traditional Chinese arch bridges of different styles shine like jewelry on the garbles.


Here, you can appreciate the beauty of garden art from different angles. "If you have the principles of nature, you will gain the interest of nature" and "Although it is made by people, it is natural", this is the highest realm of garden art. West Lake is the interpretation of this highest realm. Appreciating the beauty of gardening can be divided into distance, reality and reality; there is borrowing scenery and contrasting scenery, and there is meditation and dynamic observation. The pagoda and green mountains on the other side are borrowed scenery when viewed from the opposite side, which is suitable for viewing from a distance; at this time, there is a bright moon under the broken bridge, a moon in the sky, and a moon in the water. The moon in the sky is in the water, and the moon in the water is in the sky. Looking at the moon in the water under the bridge hole, this is the opposite view; during the day, the mountain peaks are hidden among white clouds, and the lake surface is filled with mist in the rain. This is the contrast between virtual and real. We can stop by the lake and watch, which is meditation; but when we walk slowly on the embankment, we walk slowly in the lake, and see different scenery from different angles, this is animation again.

While laughing and laughing, we unknowingly reached the middle section of Baidi. A small door and a stone tablet attracted us to another excellent place in the West Lake. This is one of the ten scenic spots of West Lake, the "Pinghu Autumn Moon" attraction. Entering the small door, I found a water pavilion on each side. I sat in the water pavilion and took a few photos. Colleagues laughed and shouted, talking about Bai Juyi and Su Dongpo's anecdotes in Hangzhou; talking about the small battlefield between the King of Wu and the King of Yue, where Xi Shi escaped and Fan Li disappeared; talking about Su Xiaoxiao, and then talking about Yue Fei, the tomb of King Yue by the West Lake.




I couldn't help but recite Su Zizhan's "Red Cliff Fu":"The breeze comes slowly, but the waves are stagnant. Give wine to guests, recite poems about the bright moon, and sing graceful chapters. When they were young, the moon rose above the East Mountain and lingered among the bullfights. Bailu Hengjiang River, water meets the sky. From what a reed looks like, Ling Wanqing is at a loss. It is as majestic as Feng Xu's wind, but he does not know where it stops; it is as floating as if he died and became independent, emerging and ascended to the immortal." Although the article recited the Yangtze River, facing the West Lake in the night, I seemed to feel very close to Senior Su.


Come down from the water pavilion and walk to the center protruding from the lake. It is the "Pinghu Autumn Moon Tower". The building is two-story high and has a carved and painted building. It has an extraordinary momentum under the embellishment of lights. It's a pity that you can't climb the building at night, otherwise you will definitely be relaxed and happy, forget all the favors and wrongs, absorb the long smoke and water, and collect the lush green mountains of the mountains. You must be able to experience the atmosphere of "sunset and lonely ducks flying together, autumn water sharing the same sky" best?

Historically, Fan Zhongyan wrote "The Story of Yueyang Tower", Wang Bo wrote "Preface to King Teng Pavilion", and Wang Zhihuan wrote the poem "Climbing the Guanque Tower". They are all works of flowing fragrance that climb high and look far into the distance. Even Suzhou Canglang Pavilion has a good saying,"The clear wind and the bright moon are priceless, and the distant mountains and close to the water are affectionate." What about the Pinghu Qiuyue Tower in West Lake? Although there are inscriptions on Qianlong and "July and Half of the West Lake" by Zhang Dai, a writer of the Ming Dynasty, it is still not as resounding as the above. Perhaps, Su Zizhan's praise of the West Lake was found difficult for future generations to surpass no matter how they wrote it.

After wandering for a long time, the lights on the Autumn Moon Tower and the Water Pavilion on the Pinghu Lake suddenly died out, and the surroundings became silent. West Lake, the only world heritage site in the country that does not require tickets, is using this method to urge tourists back.

The night is as cool as water, and the water is as quiet as night. On the bank of willow trees, the night wind and the crescent moon, the beautiful scenery on a good occasion is not in vain. We bid farewell to West Lake and come back next time.


Also remember:

I suddenly remembered Su Dongpo's two scenery poems, both of which were unique songs through the ages and became the business cards of the local scenery. One is the West Lake poem above, and the other is the Lushan poem. I suddenly discovered that the styles of these two poems are very similar. Both use the techniques of "intertextualization" and "contrast" to show the poet's love and understanding of the scenery. Now excerpt two poems:

"The water is shining and clear, and the mountains are strange and the sky is covered with rain.

If you want to compare West Lake to West Lake, it is always appropriate to apply light makeup and heavy makeup.“

"Look across the ridge into peaks, with different heights and distances.

I don't know the true face of Lushan Mountain, but I just want to be in this mountain.“


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