[ Dong Po ]

dongpo

Many people say that Su Dongpo is elegant and

In fact, in my heart, she is crazy,

He knows many rules of delicious food,

spring,

"It's time to go around the wheat field looking for wild chestnut,

Forced to cook mountain soup for the monk's house,"

Autumn,

"Qin cooked only sheep soup,

Long dishes have bear wax."

But "Huangzhou's good pork is as cheap as dung. The rich refuse to eat it, and the poor don't know how to cook it." In his view, Hangzhou people can eat it all. In the charm that ancient books are accustomed to, I taste the long liveliness.

To some extent, because of Su Dongpo, this city with sparkling waters has the charm of "half saliva, half West Lake". While wandering by the West Lake, Hangzhou's literati still can't bear to think of "it is beautiful when the heat is high" when they call their friends for dinner.

You can even eat Dongpo pork at any Chinese restaurant in the world. I think that only by enjoying it with Dongpo's eyes can Su Dongpo's tongue grow. This can only be understood after getting Hangzhou.

Born like summer flowers, Hangzhou's Huagang Fish Watching is extremely enchanting, like the beauty in the Ten Scenery of the West Lake, lying in the dense forest and bamboo trees, hugging the water. Before I could find a special bite of Dongpo pork, the elegance in my heart had grown crazy.

There is a path. Looking up, you can see that the branches are woven and the shady path leads to a secret garden. Many people will get lost deep in the bamboo. If you find it, you will definitely be moved by the beautiful name. The movable type has a heart and is called "Tianyuan".

The left picture shows the hidden bamboo forest

I went there and ate Banzhang Dongpo pork, which makes me miss it to this day. The companion of the stew is the ancient tree Lao Banzhang, the king of Pu 'er in 11 years, with an altitude of 1650 to 1800 meters. The chef's move was not a random stew with fancy skills. The taste of Lao Banzhang is similar to that of dried plum vegetables, with the right rules, and it is fresher than the dried plum vegetables with Jiangnan charm. The tea tree has been nourished by the sun and rain, and its honey is smooth and smooth. At the same time, Tongxiang local pork is mixed with fat and lean, and those tempting oils have been turned into soft around the throat by the old squad, complementing each other!

Lao Banzhang Dongpo Pork

I fell in love with eating Lao Banzhang Dongpo meat, and then tasting Lao Banzhang, whose fragrance is between orchid and nectar. After drinking it, the sweetness returned, and the appetite was still to be continued. There are also desserts to "eat" in the nose, and the fragrance at the bottom of the old Banzhang cup is stronger than that of ordinary ancient tree tea. After drinking, my hands, feet, head, back, etc. will get hot and sweaty. I am just in the middle of Tian Garden blowing the breeze and blowing it dry. The aroma of tea and meat is not greasy, but the heart is greasy in the beautiful scenery.

"For a source of living water to come"

A good garden, good vegetables and good tea all need running water. Teacher Zheng Li, the painter, said that when he saw the word "Tian", he felt like "cicadas were noisy in the forest, and the mountains became quieter by the singing of birds." He finally named the garden "Tian Garden". The design of the entire garden was personally built by him.

Teacher Zheng Li has deep attainments in landscape painting, so he is particularly sensitive to water."The water in Tianyuan is different from the water in the West Lake. The explanation in the Kangxi Dictionary of the word Tian is that the water flow is calm."

Many people, like me, will be fascinated by the hidden mountains and rivers in front of them when they first enter the door. Only when we arrive here do we understand the meaning of "Linyuan Mu Yu". The design of Sanji Waterfall into the pool makes the koi pond surge. The beauty of power is so deeply exposed. Upon closer inspection, you will find that the satin and oily water rolls faintly, which makes one can't help but compare it with the pale silk version of the "Twelve Waters Painting" by Ma Yuan, a famous painter of the Southern Song Dynasty, which is one of the ultimate representatives of Song Dynasty aesthetics.

Tian Garden is slower than Ma Yuan's "autumn waves return" and thicker than "cold ponds clear and shallow". The water in Tian Garden is actually not among the twelve waters. There are exceptions to vitality, which can be calm and vivid. "The ripples refracted by the sun are really like net towel water. A proper term in landscape painting is rarely seen near the West Lake. The water in Tian Garden feels like it is oily and shiny, but it is extremely clean." Teacher Zheng Li said.

The living water of Tianyuan

This reminds me of Su Dongpo, who cherished Xiaolong Tea 900 years ago. In the "Continuation of Tea Classics", Sima Guang and Dongpo once discussed tea, saying that tea and ink have opposite qualities. Because the color of the Song Dynasty was expensive, light and white, while the ink was heavier, deeper, the better, so the new tea Chen Mo was the best. Dongpo disagreed and said: "When serving tea, the wonderful ink and ink are fragrant, it is because their virtue is the same, and they are all strong, it is because their moral integrity is the same."

Experts are better at essentially interpreting "different works and similar works". There is a "Xiyuan" in the garden created by Zheng Li. There is a moss inside, which is the "open field" of the path connecting the teahouse and the porch. Coincidentally, the entire Tianyuan is located at the western end of the park. The east side of Huagang Guanyu Park is originally connected to the southern end of Su Causeway, giving "Xiyuan" a special coordinate identity in Tianyuan. That is the high point of the terrain here, reflecting the "east slope" of the Su Causeway. The courtyard in the middle is the tomb valley with a water system. Zheng Li said: Mausoleum, plains, mountains, valleys and slopes come from Mr. Qian Zhongshu's summary of the names of ancient Chinese poems in "Besieged City", but they are all proper terms in his landscape paintings. It seems that any art form can be integrated.

Nishihara moss

The summer sun is pouring down, and my stomach is Panling Valley. I need a plate of cancella cooked holy melons to fill it. The best tea to go with is Zhengchun Mansong tea here. Mansong tea was listed as the top-quality Pu 'er tea in the Qing Dynasty. It is made according to the standards of Toucai, Chunjian and Jinguatuo, and is very particular. In the past, Li Jingrong, the lead writer of Taiwan's Tea Magazine, went to Teacher Zheng's house to drink Mansong. She praised it highly and told me the secret of tea that the foam would be in the middle of the tea cup after brewing. This is exactly the characteristics of the Zhengchun ancient tree Pu 'er used in Tianyuan. Mansong tea,"The hot aroma warms the heart, and the cold taste pierces the bones." This undoubtedly gives Shengmelons more fairy energy. The sweet Guangzhou octagonal melons are crispy with water inside and outside. Because the dish contains Tongxiang local pork with a fat aroma, this secret makes me feel comfortable drinking this sweet tea for a long time. This dish is added with the fresh flavor of cancella, and the unique aroma of the nine-story tower enhances the taste. When you are beside the moss, you will enter your throat with the tea soup. It is really pleasing to the eye.

Chillocele mushrooms boiled melons in summer

A living meal

"There are some dishes that can't be cooked after the season, so I prefer to order these." I have never been able to change this stubborn problem of diners. Fortunately, I eat in Tianyuan, which satisfies me. This is what I have experienced. The part of the dining table whose vitality is closest to the soil grows naturally like this.

In summer, people's appetite also grows with the shade.

The small white shrimps in Jiangsu water towns are full in April. The time is very short. It is actually very difficult to meet Zaobai on its tail. Because the tender water bamboo leaves will be craved throughout the summer, it reaches its best state in June and has the effect of clearing away heat and detoxifying. For the dish of freshly roasted abalone with shrimp seeds and bamboo leaves, Tianyuan chef Li Ziheng used air-dried shrimp seeds in order to retain the delicacy of the shrimp seeds, which instead satisfied the original desire of Jiangsu and Zhejiang people for fermentation. The salty, fragrant and soft Dalian four fresh abalone are also irresistible and delicious, not to mention my weak greedy heart.

The shad in late spring and early summer is a stunner, with scales and fine lips, and its fat and delicious taste are incomparable. Dongpo once said that the shad is a "scale-like fish" and "the best of the south", and also praised the shad as a perfect match with the leaven-flavored seasoning. Whether it is the honey wine steaming in Yuan Mei's "Suiyuan Food List" in the Qing Dynasty or the "Yi Ya Yi" in the Yuan Dynasty, the shad is steamed without being cut open and is steamed with onions, wine, and pepper. This is the reason. Tianyuan's wine-brewed flower carved shad is completely based on my aesthetic point of Jiangsu and Zhejiang tastes. In Jiangyin, Jiangsu, shad of more than 1.5 kilograms was used, which was evenly divided into two by the chef, and the scales were preserved completely. After the oil temperature reaches 60%, pour it on the scales, and the scales bloom as crispy as fireworks. During the steaming process, the oil on the fish scales quietly seeped into the meat along with the 15-year-old Shaoxing flower carving, Jinhua ham, and sweet wine.

Wine-brewed flower carved shad

I still remember that Teacher Chen Li, the general consultant of "A Bite of China", and Teacher Mei, the consultant of "Flavor of the World", went to the dinner in Tianyuan at the same time. Teacher Mei said that the freshly simmered loquat had a unique almond aroma, which was amazing. There is an early summer loquat season here, where Sichuan fritillaria and fig flower gum stewed loquat are only available. Three-year-old butter chicken raised in Lin 'an, Sichuan Danzhu dried Sichuan fritillaria, figs, and white sand loquat from ponds are stewed for 6 hours. The soup is clear but not scarce. With just one bite, all it breathes is the mountain breeze. Tannula is the glue of wild sharp-nose bass on Lake Victoria, Africa. Flower glue is rich in collagen, which can promote tissue regeneration. Eating in moderation can replenish collagen, maintain skin elasticity, delay skin aging, and have the effect of beautifying and beautifying.

Stewed loquat with Sichuan Fritillaria, fig flower glue

In midsummer, appetite slowly wanes with the alternation of hot sun and stuffy rainy days. Stir-fried crispy eel with long-made buckwheat head is a treasure. Sour buckwheat head is actually the taste of porridge served by children in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces when they were young. It is sweet and sour and delicious, and it is specially used to treat people who don't like to eat. The buckwheat head is sealed and marinated with white vinegar and granulated sugar for more than 1 week. The taste is particularly crisp. Xiaoshan River eel meat is firm and elastic. It is stir-fried over high heat until it is broken. The surface has a golden burnt aroma due to the Maillard reaction. Two crispy feelings intertwined and danced between the teeth.

Fried crispy eel with long-made buckwheat head

Chaozhou pickled cabbage and thick sliced fish are my favorite. The sweetness of the stir-fried fire makes people feel worried. Hangzhou's potherb mustard and potherb are actually not as sour and strong as Chaozhou pickled cabbage. Zhoushan has 5 kilograms of black fish. The meat is thick and sweet, and needs a strong taste to be beaten through.

Chaozhou pickled cabbage thick chopped fish

For a truly active meal with both form and spirit, my personal experience in Tianyuan is: inside the chopsticks, it is to taste the menu and dishes; outside the chopsticks, it is to taste the scenery and people.

There is a "living" menu here, which you have to be lucky enough to see.

I know Teacher Zheng because of the menu he wrote casually during the dinner. Speaking casually, it's really casual. For example, Teacher Zheng is from Ningbo and likes to eat big cakes and fried dough sticks, salty paste and glutinous rice as breakfast. "I only wrote three lines. The one on the exhibition attracted the most people. It is said that several collectors are chasing that one. What's interesting is that I also wrote a corresponding breakfast at Ritz Carlton in Shanghai, including croissants and fried eggs. A female collector, she loved to eat Western food, so she bought the Western food list. Later, she thought that her husband loved eating big cakes and fried dough sticks. It would be better to put them in the restaurant to correspond, but she couldn't get them. What I didn't expect was that this big cake fried dough stick is now in the hands of a Chinese collector in France. It may also have the same ancient taste."

Teacher Zheng's menu

"There is also a fried skewer with smelly tofu written about Fat Sister from a famous Hangzhou store. I wrote the" Stinky Tofu Post "and was the first one to be collected in the solo exhibition. The collector bought it and made it into a screensaver, then drove it to Fat Sister's store to eat it. When he paid the bill, he showed it to the shopkeeper."

It's like a chef going to the food market in the morning to buy groceries, and what to eat, the smoke and smoke are just "uncertain". Zheng Li's teacher's menu writing method is very "lively". For example, the alteration in it is a pity in calligraphy creation, but here it is a highlight. It is normal for alteration after a typo to be used as a manuscript, but using altered elements as a creative technique in calligraphy creation may be a small initiative. This also originated from Teacher Zheng's meal on Fangxi, and the owner Wang Bin asked for a menu. Teacher Zheng wrote a lot of pieces, but there were always a few words that were unsatisfactory in each piece, and some were particularly good, so he wrote them out again. As a result, he found that the effect was excellent after the alteration, and finally it became a series of alterations.

Teacher Zheng's menu

This reminds me of Mr. Zhang Daqian, another great painter who loves to eat, who also has modifications in the menu. In fact, before preparing a meal, he accidentally changed a certain dish if something went wrong, so he changed a dish."Modification is the unique norm of the menu. You are respectful as you write a copybook, but it's not like a menu."Teacher Zheng said the true interest of the menu, which reminds me of eating in various small fly restaurants. Seeing those interesting typos is really part of the atmosphere of the pot and the atmosphere makes a meal with" cultural confidence "different.

Feeling the twists and turns in the garden he designed, I marveled: "In ancient times, there were Dongpo Cold Food Cards, but now there are Zheng Li's Full Food Cards."

Teacher Chen Li Bureau On-site Menu

From a distance,

It is the three-stack koi pond in Tianyuan.

The biggest one,

During the day,

I used to watch the rain from the clear sky obsessively,

See the clouds from the clouds.

At sunrise and rain,

The water flies with the sunset,

Living water is like a galaxy.

Teacher Zheng Li is also a master at cooking big fish and meat. Like me, he has admiration for the gourmand who pushed pork to the top of the Song Dynasty table. Teacher Zheng once painted Su Dongpo's theme work "I also have a pavilion deep in the bamboo, and I also want to go back to listen to the sound of autumn." I can imagine that the dining table with spring flowers and autumn moon has a unique flavor in his writing.

Teacher Zheng's painting

There are too many possibilities in a meal. The lively beauty is also the charm of Tianyuan.

🍌

The goddess asked

Do you have a private restaurant?

"The water is shining and clear,

The mountains are strange and the sky is covered with rain."

--Su Shi's "Drinking on the Lake After the First Sunny and Rain"

Food Bless You!

Consultant for "Flavor World 3"

Owner of "God's Table"

Producer of "Food Wild China"