[ Dinner-mate ]

Xiafanpian

Eat pickled mustard,

It will ring.

An electronic pickled mustard,

Response is life.

"My Food Guide" on the first day of the New Year will definitely have New Year's Eve dinner than the Spring Festival Gala.

Before the Chinese New Year, at the request of Ziqiu of Fashion Health, she invited me to write an article about "Eat Well" aimed at urban migrant workers. I'm really in a bit difficult. Due to special reasons at work, I eat a decent meal almost every day. I think everyone has a different definition of "good". The shallow level means regular quantitative measurement and try to be healthy and balanced.

What about the deep?...

The night of our family's New Year's Day was spent in "My Food Guide" directed by Chen Xiaoqing. He said,"River eels are sticky, soft, and glutinous." At that time, my mouth was the tide of the Qiantang River. On the other side of the tide is when I was a child.

In fact, I can understand people saying that Hangzhou is a "food desert". Teacher Chen Xiaoqing's rice and eyebrows teacher (painter| Gourmet) said that even if it is stewed bamboo shoots in oil, the ones cooked at home must be delicious.

Indeed, Hangzhou has too many delicious food. But if you want to have a good meal in Hangzhou, you really have to go home and eat, otherwise you will have friends if you want to run away. Because the capital is small, the profits are small, the ingredients are difficult to find, and it takes a lot of effort, I wouldn't even do it if I were the boss. In case of takeout or tourist business, there is no need to talk about it.

But what I mean is not that just because you spend money on Hangzhou food, it is obviously "expensive".

When many northerners come to Hangzhou, they will feel that they are "a land of fish and rice". If people eat meat, it is all in the water. I don't know anything about Hangzhou where Master Dongpo lived. I only know Hangzhou when I was a child. At that time, Hangzhou's fishing industry was not so developed, and Dongpo meat and white cut chicken on the table were considered serious cooking. Freshwater aquatic products from Jiaxing and Huzhou, which are transported along the water transport route, are more common on the dining table at home. The famous West Lake vinegar fish is only available in restaurants, but the level of cooking at home is generally limited. Smoked fish is actually a lazy cold dish that belongs to adults who carry them home in plastic bags when they get off work. White shrimp and rice eel are still slightly exquisite. "Shrimp and Eel" is a very clever high-end noodle. When I was a child, someone had a birthday at home. Without this noodle, I would have never had it. In a sense, Hangzhou's noodles are famous around the world because of this soul combination. Pianerchuan, when I was a child, there was a folk joke that said it was "Xierchuan", which meant that the invisible bits of shredded pork, shredded bamboo shoots and potherb mustard in it were used to deceive children. It can be seen that there is a huge gap in status.

When my mother was young, she would even go to Shanghai to buy new clothes and fabrics. Although her cooking skills were very poor, she was extremely picky."These waist flowers and intestines mixed with Sichuan are eaten by men. I don't want to eat them, not to make a living." Although I also dislike her character, I have to agree. When it comes to eating noodles, it is true that even if Hangzhou women who have enjoyed it, even if they quit carbohydrates, if they still can't put a bowl of noodles in their hearts, they will be fried with shrimp and eel. It's just that the certain yuan museum, which is now famous in the martial arts world, is different from what it was when it was first. The rice eel was not the local rice eel when I was a child. Facing the tide of tourists, of course, it was too late to peel the river shrimps by hand.

Everyone has a different aesthetic when eating noodles. Yuan Mei loves soup when she eats noodles. Even when she makes a bowl of vegetarian noodles, she has to "boil the mushroom canopy into juice one day. The mushroom canopy is the mushroom root. After it is cooked, it will be settled and settled; the next day, boil the fresh bamboo shoots into juice, and then use the two juices and noodles to cook." Li Yu, however, loved noodles."By blending all things, they all belong to the noodles. The five flavors are masked and the soup is the only clear one. In this way, we are eating noodles, not drinking soup." Most people in Hangzhou love toppings.

The freshly fried toppings are the essence of Hangzhou noodles. For example, fried eel with shrimp, small river shrimp is white moonlight and crispy, and fried eel is cinnabar mole and crispy. The rice eel needs to be stir-fried at low temperature, causing the meat on the edge of its bones to "rustle". When the tongue is pushed, it falls spinelessly, but the flavor still remains. Regardless of whether the bones were removed beforehand or not, the seam of the eel meat had been penetrated by oil and loosened gracefully. When it became a noodle topping, it was already filled with soup. The soup is usually made of old chicken, ham and eel bones. The aroma is extremely sexy. The sentence "the flesh does not disperse, the skin is intact, and the striae are completely broken" is the high-level type. But now, three times and five times, fried in oil and one time, mixed with "crispy outside and tender inside", there is actually no soul at all. Hangzhou generally eats round noodles, which must be alkaline noodles, which must be related to the dock culture mentioned by Hei Mi. I personally think there is another underlying reason. The noodles in Hangzhou Laodi are heavy in oil and the soup is thick (also related to the gelatinization of the flour on the outside). Everyone who has eaten "Juying Noodle Restaurant" will understand what I mean. After the alkali noodles are hung with soup, they are of course more greasy and refreshing.

I don't believe a bowl of good shrimps and fried eel if it is less than 100 yuan.

Most of the Qiantang River bream, crucian carp, and mandarin fish that everyone talks about in the market are actually raised in rural reservoirs. These meats are relatively "loose" fish. The chefs of the Lao Hangzhou gang habitually marinate them for short periods of time. People in Hangzhou call them "Baoqian". My parents 'generation believed that eating black fish would replenish qi, clear heat and detoxify, and the meat would be tight. If there was an injury or flu, they would not touch any sea fish. Black fish would come first. I think it has something to do with the black fish eating meat. The protein density is high, so naturally it's unnecessary to pickle. Among aquatic products, turtles, white strips, and rice fish are the more precious ones. They are not eaten every day at home. Old Hangzhou people are afraid of "spreading" food, so they try not to eat geese and eat as little seafood as possible.

Because grandma is the chief accountant of Yuanyang Aquatic Products Company, when I was a child, I had the convenience of eating all kinds of yellow croakers, hairtail, swimming crabs, cuttlefish, prawns, etc. from the ocean. However, I may not necessarily know what it is. I personally think that even wild yellow croaker is too delicious. In my heart, the most delicate taste is the plum tong. When I was a child, I met wild small yellow croakers, plum boys, small crabs or sea shrimps. My mother was afraid that I would be anxious if I cooked late, so she casually dragged the batter and fried it for me as snacks. When she meets a freshwater fish, she will steam it seriously. My mother would chop it and braise it when the plate couldn't fit on the size. This is how Hangzhou people treat aquatic products. The popularity of seafood was due to the increasingly developed foreign trade, and more Hong Kong businessmen and Japanese businessmen came here. Various hotel restaurants responded to their tastes for business banquets. Only then did the people begin to regard rare things as valuable.

People in Hangzhou love to eat. It turns out that people with small bridges and flowing rivers have time to eat. Later, there were more tourists, then more Internet people, and now there are more Internet celebrities... The torrent of the times is contradictory to the lifestyle that most people aspire to. Love and freedom, wealth and health, hormones and marriage... There are some rules you can forget at the right time, or you can pick up at will. But when I eat, all I think in my heart is always "okay". Even if I forget when I grow up, I will always slowly pick up a pair of chopsticks deep in my memory.

In my heart, good food must be without work, but it must be more attentive to eating than work. As soon as the New Year comes to this day, when there is no flavor of the New Year, I especially yearn for a meal when I was a child. It must start at my grandparents 'vegetable market.

When I was a child, my parents were too busy. During the winter and summer vacations, I was "sent" to my grandparents 'homes. It sounds like a happy "child labor" life is about to begin. As soon as I woke up in the morning, I could hear my grandfather's "Voice of America" radio (alarm clock). I knew that I had to get up quickly and go shopping with me. My task was to do my grandfather's little calculations. I remember when I heard that Lewinsky and Clinton were practicing their friendship, I was still in elementary school. Our family held a short morning family meeting early in the morning, and the final conclusion was to eat stewed tofu with silver carp at night. In Hangzhou's local cuisine, there is no such thing as abalone, ginseng fin and tripe, whose name is more expensive than the taste.

For the bored grandparents and grandchildren, eating is really a very important thing. I remember in the smell of aged fish balls and water, I grabbed my grandfather's vegetable basket and passed through the smiling vegetable market stall owners, whether they were selling the first crop of potherb mustard or the arrogant cockerel... Almost everyone knows us. If I had the lettuce on the day of shopping, it would look like a short me holding a pot of plants that were taller from a distance. When my grandfather was a child, he was arranged by his great-grandfather to leave Hangzhou to take refuge and go to Shanghai's French Concession missionary school. So when he was old, he liked to comb the back of Shanghai's old carats. When I was a child, I was a student's hair with all bangs. The round and high arches of the market were like the background lights of the theater shining on the deep market. The two of us were holding hands before, and our backs were like a stills of the "This Killer Is Not Too Cold" Bantang Group.

Market owners take special care of regular customers, recruiting them with hidden and fashionable delicacies. They are often "counter-priced" in advance, such as verbally quoting a VIP price that is obviously a loss to show their closeness. Although I am in elementary school, I have a job accompanying my grandfather to the vegetable market: remember how much money I spent that day. Grandpa has the habit of an old accountant, which is to keep accounts, and sip "a cucumber" and "two eggplant" with relish... a total of three pieces. The New Year's goods for grandma's aquatic products company are basically "samples", so the "roasted fish with green onions" that is a finger wide at home and the "big soup yellow croaker" that cannot fit in the big soup bowl are usually not included in the accounts...

People in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces all knew about Liangduan by their ancestors, which is also recognized as the top pork. When I was a child, the rice was ready at home, but the Dongpo pork cooked by black birds at both ends was not ready yet. I would wait by the pot with a rice bowl in hand. The pork belly meat is cut into four large squares and neatly placed in a casserole, with onion knots, star anise, and cinnamon. In addition, the only seasoning is soy sauce. Grandpa used beer as water, but he didn't like to put sugar in it. When the aroma overflowed, the two of us began to take turns watching the pot. Grandpa would always grant me the final right to explain,"Nannan, wait a minute, come and see if you are familiar with it. Is it good?" I always nod earnestly. When boiling, the sauce is light and the taste is strong, and the transparent oil flowers float. Many people think that the old Dongpo meat will be tied with straw, but in fact, it is only needed when the hotel heats it repeatedly, for fear that it will not be shaped in the end. If you eat it at home, how can you? It's just right when cooked.

When I was a senior in primary school, Hangzhou's silk foreign trade industry was in the ascendant, and the dining table was quietly "foreign". There are usually two tables for New Year's Eve dinner at grandma's grandfather's house. The adults have red wine and blue ribbon, and the children's table have coke and "champagne". This "Champagne" is not "Champagne". When I think back now, it should be a sparkling wine from non-French Champagne producing areas. But that's what adults call it. This special "gift" between children and adults cannot be considered alcohol. This kind of "impudence" is readily acquiesced by adults at the noisy children's table during the New Year, opening one eye and closing one eye.

However,"Champagne" can only be drunk at dinner time. The snacks on the table have not been set at all and can be eaten at any time. Hangzhou people attach great importance to the "roasted seeds and nuts" on the table during the New Year. I will go to buy "leisure fruits" with my grandfather before the 27th of New Year and go to the "Zouji" roasted seeds and nuts shop where he is familiar. The store didn't do business all summer, nor did it, nor did it when he was unhappy, but he always remembered what his grandfather wanted to buy. I even think it's strange that they only see this about once a year. Grandma only loves the smaller "Xiaojingsheng". It is actually a kind of peanuts with shells. It is fried quickly and not yet scorched. Every bite smells fragrant, which is more enjoyable than ordinary sunflower seeds. Grandpa likes the limited supply of pumpkin seeds. Some of them have a little black on their white bellies, which is just right. I like pistachios and open pine nuts (Brazilian pine nuts were popular when I was in college). Probably everyone has the surname "open" and is of the same origin as "expenses". They have in common that they are expensive and delicious. Pine nuts are a rarity that is much more expensive than Lin 'an pecans. Children don't have to fight with shells. They don't have to eat more saliva than the shells like they eat watermelon seeds, nor do they have to stop like they eat pecans, where the meat is more shredded than the shells. However, it is indeed difficult for these three to determine the degree of delicious food. I prefer pine nuts. When I peel them, I can instantly feel the happiness of a little squirrel. I eat them while playing, which is particularly sweet.

Although imported jelly and gem sugar cookies are both eye-catching and must be grabbed as a trophy of New Year's Eve snacks, the most popular thing on the table is chocolate. The wine-core chocolate is locked by adults with the corner of their eyes. If you eat one more, you will be warned. At that time, my family in Guylian, Belgium gave it as a gift. When I pulled it out, I found "shell"-shaped cream chocolates, each with different shapes. The story of Kong Rong Rang Li is a reluctant consensus. The younger ones choose first, and the boys let the girls choose first. At New Year's Eve dinner, adults must ensure a relatively fair distribution of "love" so that children's "sweet society" can be stable and harmonious. White Rabbit toffee is a "regular" medicine for crying. If a child makes a fuss, an adult will put one in it. When the smell of milk seeps out, the tears will quietly withdraw.

Each family has its own dishes, but our family has cut-cut chicken, Hangzhou three delicacies and spring rolls every year. My tasks at the market are usually to queue up to buy fish balls, egg dumplings and spring rolls, carry baskets and wait for adults to come back from "traveling around". The "Spring Roll Skin" stall is an ordinary martial arts master. He holds the dough in his right hand, holds a spatula in his left hand, wipes and lifts it with his right hand, and shovels and peels it with his left hand. A piece of spring roll skin is baked like flowing water... The fish round stall is actually a low-temperature and slow-cooked molecular dish. No one would have imagined that the dumplings made with the hands of grass carp (or fish head) would float in a huge basin that surged but did not roll, and would be taken home to make soup. It tasted like kissing a baby's cheek.

Each stall has its own friendship. Potherb mustard must be marinated in the stall owner's own jar. This way to stir-fry cuttlefish and put some winter bamboo shoots will be fresh. The white-cut chicken must be a capon that my grandma ordered early on at the vegetable market, and a young cock that is about 7 months old. The rest of the soup from the white-cut chicken is directly used to make Hangzhou three delicacies. According to my observation, the "three delicacies" have their own merits. My family's ten-year recipes are fish balls, egg dumplings, and shrimp. Others include fried meat skins, Longkou vermicelli, winter bamboo shoots slices and alpine cabbage. Hangzhou spring rolls are not fried when eaten fresh for dinner. They will only be fried the next day when they are eaten. Nowadays, people like me who are afraid of oil don't understand the fried spring rolls in various restaurants.

Hangzhou snacks are wrapped in soft skin, warm between the skin. The flavor of shredded mushrooms, shredded winter bamboo shoots, shredded pork and leek is even more delicious and fragrant under the stimulation of Huyang soy sauce and Shaoxing rice wine. The people in Bao have long had a pool of water in their hearts, making endless ripples. It was a drop that leaked from my childhood mouth. By the way, winter bamboo shoots and ham are usually used as MSG in my house. It's just that winter bamboo shoots are used in the style of spreading flowers, and the ham is only sliced and steamed fish. When I was a child, I often ate mandarin fish or perch at home, and I ate sea fish without ham.

Of course, my family also has kung fu dishes like "stir-fried black fish slices". The chef is my uncle, waiting for him to come off work to cook the star dishes of this year's dinner. The women of the whole family held their breaths and waited. The whole family pointed to his skill of uniformly deboning and slicing black fish slices, applied a thin layer of cornflour, a little shredded green pepper, potherb snow, and bamboo shoots, and instantly stir-fry them out of the pan. Crispy, crisp, and fresh, the three overlap in one place, as if a black fish had another life on the tip of its tongue. Anyway, when I was a child, I saw few strange things. The feeling was that the world was tasteless.

I'm ashamed, my mother is actually the worst cook in the family. But at least she knew that Longjing shrimp was originally a very precious dish. Hand-peeled river shrimp and the tender leaves before the Longjing picking season before the Ming Dynasty, this precious friendship took only two weeks a year to prepare this legendary dish. It doesn't use any exotic skills, but it's beautiful. I made this dish for Teacher Pang from He Teahouse. I personally peeled the newly marketed river shrimp in spring and used fresh leaves from her tea garden. She exclaimed repeatedly. Now all restaurants are making a "fantasy".

Of course, I always tease myself at home for being an excellent person who has passed the generation, and I am not humble. Grandpa and grandma's families all come from old-fashioned and affluent families, with rich gentry and international students, who are good at eating and drinking. When my grandfather was a child, there were special nannies for snacks at home. My mother gave birth to me when she was very old. In a special era, it was particularly difficult to marry. Because of my gentle and capable father, even if my mother is not diligent, she is not the kind of person who is good at cooking, and she will be cared for, and she will also take care of me, a lovable little drag boy.

However, my father always praises my mother. She does have two specialty dishes that no one can match: steamed plum fish and shredded pork with Hangzhou pepper. It all sounded extremely ordinary, and I once suspected that it was my father's dog food. After eating it, you will understand that it is not because my mother is capable, but because she is careful enough about the ingredients. I once mentioned my mother's ability to pick Hangzhou peppers in a variety show.

When I was a child, I couldn't eat spicy food. The only thing I could eat was my mother's stir-fried pork with Hangzhou pepper. She only uses early summer pepper to stir-fry local pork tenderloin. It is best to have a little chicken soup or pork soup as water to taste sweet, tender and beautiful. When frying tenderloin, people with poor skills can still stir-fry it until it is done, but it will definitely not be enough to put your teeth into shredded pork. In early summer, the pepper has not yet grown its skin. With the aroma of local pigs, it is toot, like meat. The other one is even more testing. When I was a child, I had a psychological shadow about eating fish, and I was stuck by both large and thin thorns. However, I fell in love with the plum boy steamed by my mother. It was smooth and had little thorns. In fact, there were only soy sauce, rice wine, old ginger slices and self-boiled pork in it. Steamed plum fish must be wild, about the length of a girl's palm. Moreover, the fish strips are about the same size, ensure that they are cooked together, with slightly protruding eyes, and you can start the pot before it explodes. Such a request might have been easy to realize when I was a child. But now there are few wild plum children, and I have to walk through two or three stalls in the market early in the morning to collect them like collecting stamps. It only takes five minutes, with the swaying lid of the pot and the aroma overflowing from the whole body, my mother will transform the Lolita little fish into a charming tongue.

Note: My mother's version does not have green onions because the taste of Plum Tong is very sweet and fragrant. Ginger inherits the flavor. Adding green onions actually destroys the original flavor.

I often work as a cutting assistant in the kitchen, listening to my grandfather talk about the scandals of my mother's childhood. Grandpa always said suddenly: "We don't want to eat fingers at home." Every time I listen to it, I still laugh once. Now I can only remember it with tears.

Later, when my grandparents were old, my uncle and aunt began to take turns at the restaurant to treat guests. Later, there were only turns of past events.

No matter where I am now, I can still receive the sentence "Remember to eat well", which means home.

🍌

The goddess asked

What do you remember about New Year's Eve dinner in Memory?

"Real generosity towards the future,

It is to dedicate everything to the present."

--Camus

Food Bless You!

Consultant for "Flavor World"

Owner of "God's Table"

Producer of "Food Wild China" and "World Worth 369"