The deleted version of this article "Jiangnan Fishing Brother| Ningbo Cuisine of "Diplomats" that is a must-eat when coming to Hangzhou

Originally published in "BlueDish Blue Plate"

Released in December 2023

Jiangnan Fishing Brother Owner Cai Guofang

[ Friends ]

friends

The logic of some big shots opening restaurants is simple:

One more good dish,

Just have one more good friend.

Often later,

People who went to eat in that store thought so.

A good friend who has experienced the world of food came to Hangzhou. As the temporary tenth-grade sesame paste recommender of Hangzhou cuisine official, I asked nervously: Would you like to eat a local Zhejiang dish?

The owner, Cai Guofang (known as "Lao Master"), is a diplomat. Whether it is the main card,"Jiangnan Fishing Brother" or the deputy card,"Hao Cai Haocai", it is normal to come to the "Lao Master" for dinner and find that there are celebrities laughing and laughing around. The more cordial, the more casual. If a stranger needs a recommendation reason, I will say: "Jiangnan fishing brothers have always adhered to the tradition, stayed alone by the seaside, adhered to the concept of 'good wine and good materials', and showed people with their authentic qualities." If it seems very official, you will know that I am sincere by taking random photos of the dishes with my mobile phone.

Hou Wei makes friends

I marvel at the tender Ningbo cuisine of Tiehan, and Jiangnan Fishing Brother is the first brand in Hangzhou.

Regular customers all memorize the signature dishes here, such as shredded radish and white pomfret tables; roasted winter bamboo shoots with snow vegetables are the only crispy gift of the season; the soy paste of green crabs is thick and beautiful, and the taste of ice cream; the lard residue of Lao Jiang's taro soup is fragrant! Behind the chair, Teacher Wu Shanming drew a wooden arhat that looked like he couldn't help but jump out of the paper to join in the fun. This is probably about to turn into a fat-headed arhat, or a wine and meat style. In Lao Master's house, unforgettable Ningbo cuisine is available at your fingertips.

White pomfret with shredded radish

The fact that the old man's Jiangnan fishing brothers do not have any white friends is not so much because of the natural qualities of diplomats, but rather because of the charm and flavor of big people.

Yao Runlian of the Australian Culinary Association once asked for a visit. He knew how to eat and knew that the Ningbo food cooked by this former diplomat was something that Donghai would never forget. Yao Huizhen brought the same dish Jiexiu from the Australian State Banquet table, and dressed up salty food from the Australian and Hangzhou tables. "Master Lao" said that the practice of dreaming a shrimp last night was called "Prawns in Dreams in Dreams". It was a cluster of new vegetables. The aroma of lemon juice penetrated through the crisp shell, like a lover looking back. The kitchen was trying to get off menus, and he asked me to quickly steal some for Yao Hui to taste.

Fried shrimp with lemon juice

Ningbo cuisine, which seems to be rough and crude, is skillfully cooked and served with wine. At this time, until spring, the true god of Ningbo roasted vegetables,"Tiancai Xin", is stir-fried with thick slices of yellow mud bamboo shoots, and a plate of vegetables is the sky. Although new dishes are still being served one after another, I have already been fed with yellow rice dumplings and large intestine wax gourd. Tiancai Heart Crab Soup Because of the late arrival of winter, I couldn't stop my spoon. Pour some Jiangnan Fisherman's own rice wine and taste it in your mouth with the swimming crab. This heart is Lao's hospitable heart.

Crab soup with cabbage heart

Almost every season when Donghai Shixian is on the market, Ningbo people have a new "MSG" for wine. Stewed with salty pork knuckles with squid and fierce meat, rotten leather bags and yellow dumplings, thousands of pickles... Dry sand eels, if you want them to be "neither wet nor dry", will make those who love eating less confused. Anyway, I ate the fresh and pickled bamboo shoots made by the old man himself, shoveled waxy edamame with thick meat, picked up chopsticks and scrambled eggs with crispy shrimp seed sauce, and then dipped the taro in the shell-free crab paste... I could only hear the toast of Lao Master like flowing water.

dried sand eel

Brother Jiangnan Yu's ingredients are tough. I was originally stubborn enough to lose weight, but when I saw the fresh and good food on the table, it became soft. That year, Shanghai Bao Ye came to Hangzhou, and Teacher Chen Li gathered friends and made witty remarks at the banquet. The white shrimp cost a seed, and I ate it while laughing. The topic on the table has shifted from the origin of mankind to ancient Chinese civilization, as mellow as fresh food in the fermentation waves. The hard food is not over yet! Round pig's trotters in light yellow rice pot, shredded radish vermicelli crab pot, sour soup beef pot, all served with generous Ningbo hospitality, and I was so scared that I moved the stool outside. After tasting it, I didn't feel full at all. The taste was mysterious and delicate. This was the essence of Jiangnan Yu's cooking becoming more and more sophisticated. The dishes in the pot are uniquely matched, one is moist and fresh, the other is fresh and moist, and the other is fresh and moist... Fresh and comfortable.

Stewed pig's feet with pale yellow rice

The soul of Jiangnan Fishing Brother is in the delicious details of time, sunshine and rain, as well as in the new menu of Lao Master. Steamed yellow rice dumplings with rice bones have the fresh aroma of wine, ginkgo (white gu rice) dumplings have extraordinary freshness in them, and pickled squid meat stewed with Lianzhou salty pork hands. When the two delicacies are multiplied, I can't wait to bite all the squid bones and eat them. Green crab in soy sauce, fried crab with soy sauce, and steamed cabbage strips are also new dishes. They already have the stability of classic dishes.

Gourmet/writer Lin Weihui casually said,"As long as the partner is chosen right, the salty cabbage will taste good." With a little advice from the old man, chef Brother Sen created a "roasted cabbage with rice". It is said that the pepper and garlic inside are "garlic that you can kiss after eating it." Master Asen said that Jiangnan Fisherman's cooking is very simple, relying entirely on good ingredients. I can't even tell if it's pride or humility. Taro soup was newly launched before the beginning of autumn. The lard residue was cut with the same knife as taro. A spoonful of glutinous rice carries a bag of crispy lard, and the fragrance of autumn fat is fragrant.

Lao Jiang taro soup

In the famous gourmand Master Shen's "One Person's List", there is a pork with shredded rice. One day a few years ago, he was lucky enough to finally get what he wanted with eight-treasure sauce diced powder in Jiangnan. As Master Shen said,"ribbon silk" is as thin as firewood, but it is easier to dry than the oily, plump ribbon silk."ribbon" refers to all small dried dumplings, such as dragon head silk, where only large seafood is guessed as "dry". This is cooked with braised pork, but my life is really at stake, and I am unable to change my love for someone else.

One Sichuan root is enough to form a game

Master Shen's game has always been difficult to find. I am honored to eat Sichuan Province Bureau and eat the essence other than the tail of the shark.

The fish is actually a mackerel. From the snack fish to the large authentic Ningbo people, Master once said: "It must be a blue-dot mackerel that migrated to Xiangshan before and after the Qingming Festival and was caught at the intersection of salt and fresh water. The local talent is called Sichuan." Gourmet/artist Eyebrow Teacher told me that he actually didn't like to eat mackerel-except for one season, around the Qingming Festival every year. "Trumpet nose, Trumpet tail" is the "hidden menu" of the old gluttons. Once a child who knows how to eat this is kidnapped, parents can only pray that the kidnappers do not know what they do, otherwise they will have to add a few more zeroes to the ticket.

Steamed Sichuan with ham and bamboo shoots

The word "Fangyu" is the most appropriate tribute to "Sichuan Fu" I have ever heard. Quan Zuwang, a literary writer born in Ningbo in the Qing Dynasty, described him as follows in "Siming's Mixed Songs of Native Things (Mikes)":"Spring events have just arrived at the social day, and Yang Hua sent him away. But don't eat before the time, Ning Xuan is not yet full of fragrance." I couldn't help but ask the food to eat "clear food" in the third month of the lunar calendar, after "the taste is very bad"!

From the snack of the shark to the big authentic Ningbo people "master"(A Cai, the owner of Jiangnan Fishersong), he also remembers Sichuan: "It must be a blue-dot shark that migrated to Xiangshan before and after the Qingming Festival and caught at the intersection of salt and fresh water. The local talent is called Sichuan. Recently, I will find a way to eat it at this time almost every year." At 4 o'clock in the morning of the Qingming Festival, he set off early for the fishing dock. As a meticulous restaurant owner and diner, getting the Sichuan Root on the day of the Qingming Festival was full of ritual for the master.

The master's hometown of Xiangshan was Xiangshan. He said that the fishermen had always known about this secret, but in the early years, they would not take it seriously. Back then, it was said that the yellow fishermen were used as farm fertilizer. In recent years, more and more people have cherished it. The master was hospitable. Before coming back, he always shouted in his circle of friends and rushed back to Hangzhou with more than a dozen fresh dumplings of a size that were still eye-catching. Almost every time, he would call on Mr. Eyebrow, the gourmand among his best friends.

"The blue-dotted mackerel is laid flat, with the head and tail tilted upward, but ordinary mackerel does not have this characteristic." The master knows that a good piece of Sichuan aconite is placed on the table, and it is self-evident that it is delicious.

Sichuan monkfish body

The color of aconite without ice is unusual. The eyes of the tiger are bright, the gills are red, the body is shiny with deep flowers and green, and the blue spots on the back are also particularly shiny. After cutting open the fish, you will find that the body is slightly red. The meat quality of the mackerel that has been washed with fresh water in Xiangshan Port will undergo magical changes, but this effect does not occur at the junction of salty and fresh water in other sea areas. After leaving this port area, the meat on the body turned white, the touch of red disappeared, and the freshness of the body was far different.

In fact,"Sichuan" should have been called "" at the earliest, and it was "simplified" as the fish called. The local elderly said that there is still a saying about "": there is a hole in Ninghai Bay, which leads directly to the Maotou Ocean. After giving birth to children in this cave, they went to Maotou Ocean and then migrated to Ninghai Bay through Xiangshan Port. Therefore, it is said that the unique nature of Ninghai Bay is indeed due to difficulties. "If you miss it, you will have to wait another year!"

Sun Shilun, a poet in the Qing Dynasty, once said that "water has social characteristics." He was talking about fish and fish. I think it's reasonable to call you this. The fish migrate in the spring. Due to the stimulation of hormones, their backs are glowing with blue light, just like the special dress they wear at a dance party to meet their sweetheart. At this time, the mackerel had a stage name called "Chuanwu". After mating, the body returns to the black-gray color of the mackerel, and in some places it is also called the mackerel, the swallow, the board mackerel, and the green arrow.

Just use a simple "home-cooked" and add a little ginger and garlic to increase the aroma. Teacher Eyebrow likes to put a little more celery and a little more soy sauce to enhance the flavor. It is a taste that makes people forget. He said that this meat needs to be used with slightly heavier flavor ingredients, so that both the aroma and taste will instantly explode in the meat. To be salty, vegetables such as cattails and pickles are the first choice. If it is cooked by Wenzhou people, it will be stewed until fragrant and then the juice will be collected.

Sichuan Sichuan Fish Head

The old man decided to eat two pieces: take the head and tail off and put the cabbage into salty rice (cabbage) and cook the soup, and marinate the middle for half an hour first, and then add the cabbage water to steam.

When eating delicious food, you must withstand waiting.

After this treatment, the steamed Sichuan aconite has first-class appearance and taste: starting from the belly, the color gradually becomes darker. Use chopsticks to gently handle everything in the belly, lift it up and put it into your mouth. It is mellow and soft, and it melts immediately without biting. After eating the belly, crush the meat near the back and send it into the mouth with the salty soup. It is another enjoyable feeling.

In addition to salty rice, the Sichuan root for soup is also paired with shredded bamboo shoots in season. There is an old saying in Ningbo: "If you don't eat salty rice soup for three days, your feet will become sour (weak)."

Take a small bowl, add the salty shredded bamboo shoots and pork, fill the soup, eat together, and finally drink the soup. The sour aroma of salty rice, the sweet crispy taste of shredded bamboo shoots and the freshness of Sichuan aconite are called "bone penetration".

Improve the fresh with salty taste

If Brother Fishing from Jiangnan doesn't come for a day, it's like three springs. Spring describes missing the salty and delicious flavor of cotton, which contains everything, even spring pickles.

I joked with Master Lao and Chef Brother Sen that when I was a child, if I had a poor appetite, I would most often find "rotten foot pickles". It was a crispy pickle lying at the bottom of the jar. The sour smell inside was a curse that killed people. It could burn everything. It was more delicious than MSG.

Salted and sour soup beef

The so-called Yiren, as long as you like it. Garlic also smells like stinky feet, but people who like it call it Garlic. Moreover, the rotten foot pickles fiber taste like silk and is extremely soft. Among the "sour and smelly" parties in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, Ningbo people like to eat salty rice most. The texture is very similar to "rotten pickled vegetables". The yellow rice can be freshly cooked by boiling a large soup. Local people in Ningbo often jokingly say that if you don't eat, you will turn sour, which means that you can't walk any longer.

Once, Brother Dog from Phoenix Network, Teacher Yan Tao, Master Chef Alan Yu, etc. came from afar. Thanks to a group of old handsome guys (chūu nán rén), I had a stinky banquet! Stinky tofu sashimi is a classic. This time, it smells brand new. It is steamed with stinky vegetables and stinky tofu, and a grilled version of kohlrabi... Even the tips of the tender green Chinese toon buds were served. With them around, the table is really smelly.

Stinky tofu sashimi

The "chasing stinky men" were so enthusiastic that I faintly ate the spring Xiaodonghai Dao, bit the crispy jumping turtle on the outside, sucked in the sesame snail, and took a bite of Xiaolongbao smaller than Su Xiaoxiao. I thought: It's rare to come to Hangzhou, so I won't compete with you chūu nán rén.

Every time the big shots laugh and laugh, I like to take care of myself and have a chance to have a time when I love Fat Lisse sleepwalking in the fresh world. Jiangnan fishing brother's "fragrance of thousands of miles" is another forbidden area for people chasing after him. The stinky pickled mustard tuber smells like it is about to enter Pansi Cave. Then look at the inkstone ink wrapped in ink and Lipu taro head, soft, fragrant and fresh glutinous... Jiangnan Yuge ink-flavored meat has long been a famous salty dish, and even Teacher Chen Xiaoqing, a famous food director, appreciates it. It is said that ancient ink in the Song Dynasty was also a traditional prescription for treating diarrhea and healing wounds. I looked at my dark mouth after eating a few pieces of ink-scented meat. Although I couldn't see clearly whether it was a god or a demon in front of me, I just wanted to fall into it. And the last bowl of old duck and taro soup brought me back to the world and returned to Qingli.

Ink, ink, egg and Lipu taro

The master said stinky tofu treats Alzheimer's and mouth ulcers. The immortal chicken with the eel tube is verified from the Compendium of Materia Medica and the legend of Ningbo. The eel tube treats tuberculosis and stews it with chicken soup, which has better curative effect. Yesterday, the rice tripe from home was brought here to stew the yellow rice tripe, which complemented the improved version of Xiangshan Sanhuang Tang glue in the next pot. The cosmetic effect of eating it can be imagined. It will probably be whiter and tender than the oriental ones. Master Lao asked me to suggest a word to him, and I thought to myself, I must definitely treat me to dinner. When I was greedy, I drew the vertical line of the word "god" into an eel!

Handwritten "Eel Tube Fairy Chicken Peerless"

The master's concept of "using salty food to improve fresh food" is like a lingering sound around the table, and the more he eats, the more he understands it. Although I was already full to the top of my head, when I drank the chicken soup stewed with shrimp in eel cans, I dared to have an extra stomach. The master said very mysteriously: The inspiration for this dish comes from the ancestral practice of Ningbo people's eel cans. It is called eel cans mixed with Beijing onions. Cut the fried eel cans into sections about 10 centimeters long and put them in chicken soup to cook. After cooking, take them out and cool. Whenever you want to eat it, you will take out the eel sections, peel the skin and thorn them, and mix them with Beijing onions, fragrant vegetables, sesame oil and cooking wine.

Stewed chicken soup with shrimp and eel cone

Chinese catering is becoming more and more inclusive when it is making a leap, and Ningbo cuisine is also constantly traveling through mountains and seas. The trend is that the taste details become clearer and clearer. The newly-made danzi, the old man said that it was a skinned danzi from Xiangshan, similar to the white pomfret (known as Baibian locally in Xiangshan) and Sichuan monkshood before the Qingming Festival. In late summer and early autumn, only the Xiangshan sea area is the most delicious skinned carp. I ate two large pieces in a row and felt that they could be the special "rice" on our East Coast. Although the seasons were limited, it was a bit extravagant. I love swimming crab vermicelli pot, winter melon chopped round noodles, and fried shrimp are all soft and gentle to the heart. The wine-brewed round noodles are all "Dragon Ball undercover".

I lamented that I should really waste the rest of my life on eating more good meals with good friends. Old man understands.

The goddess asked

Do you like Ningbo cuisine?

"A friend is another self."

--Barcelona

Food Bless You!

Consultant for "Flavor World"

Owner of "God's Table"

Producer of "Food Wild China" and "World Worth 369"