When it comes to cities in Zhejiang, the first thing that comes to mind is Hangzhou, but few people mention Haining. Haining is under the jurisdiction of Jiaxing City, and it only takes one hour to come from Hangzhou. When it comes to Haining now, most people immediately mention it as Haining Leather City. But the famous scenic spot "Qianjiang Tide" in its territory has been popular since the Tang and Song dynasties, famous both domestically and internationally. "On the 18th day of the eighth lunar month, it is magnificent and unparalleled in the world." It still attracts guests from all directions to witness the wonders of the tidal bore. My initial impression of the Qiantang River Tide may have come from an elementary school textbook titled "Observing the Tide". Even today, I can still see the passionate expression of the Chinese language teacher when he talked about it. Imagine how spectacular the tide rushing towards you like a thousand armies and horses advancing together. Unexpectedly, 20 years later today, the first time I came to Haining was to head straight for the tidal viewing festival.
Haining has a long history and is not only a popular tourist destination, but also home to many cultural celebrities such as Li Shanlan, Wang Guowei, Jiang Baili, Xu Zhimo, and Jin Yong. And Haining also has many legends circulating, such as the mystery of the birth of Emperor Qianlong, which has been a topic of great interest in folk history. Mr. Jin Yong's "Record of Swords and Enmities" is based on this.
At this stop, go to Haining, visit the millennium old city of Salt Officials, and catch up with the surging tide of the Qianjiang River.
[Introduction]
1. Regarding transportation: Haining has convenient transportation, with a 1.5 hour drive from Shanghai Pudong Airport and a 40 minute drive from Hangzhou Xiaoshan Airport. The high-speed rail and EMU stop at Haining West Station. I am flying from Xiamen to Hangzhou this time, and then the airport bus will directly arrive at Haining Bus Station. The ticket is 38 yuan/person, and there is a bus every hour, which is very convenient. It takes about half an hour to take a taxi from Haining Bus Station to Yanguan Ancient City, and there is also a dedicated shuttle bus service.
2. Hotel selection: The Kaiyuan Temple in the ancient city of Yanguan, chosen this time, is based on the highly Chinese characteristic official residences, deeply rooted in the ancient city of Yanguan. The overall architecture is seamlessly integrated with the ancient city, and also embodies the characteristics of Jiangnan residential buildings. And there is also a grassy and green RV base next to the scenic park, where you can experience this special RV enjoyment.
3. The Good Time for Observing the Tide: Entering the eighth month of the lunar calendar is a good time to watch the tide. The lament of Su Dongpo, a literary figure of the Northern Song Dynasty, who watched the tide on the 18th day of the eighth month resounded throughout history, making visitors full of anticipation for the Qiantang tide around the 18th day of the eighth month of the lunar calendar. This year's Haining Tide Watching Festival is from September 7th to 20th (from the 9th day of the eighth lunar month to the 22nd day of the eighth lunar month). There are two tide watching times per day, with a 12 hour interval. The best place to watch the tide is in the Tide Watching Resort Park. It is recommended to arrive at the site half an hour in advance, as the tide does not wait.
4. Regarding tickets: It is recommended to purchase a through ticket, which costs 80 yuan on weekdays. The combined ticket includes five scenic spots: the Tide Viewing Resort Park (the best viewing point for first-line tides), the Sea God Temple, the former residence of Wang Guowei, the Confucian Temple Academy, and the Jin Yong Academy (excluding the Zhanao Pagoda and Tide Viewing Seats).
5. Summary of itinerary: The Yanguan Ancient City in Haining is not very large, and a two-day arrangement is more than enough, so it is very suitable for a weekend vacation in the Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai regions.
D1 (9.1): Flight from Xiamen to Hangzhou at 12:50 noon, landing in Hangzhou around 14:20. Bus from Hangzhou Xiaoshan Airport to Haining Bus Station at 15:30. Arrive in Haining around 16:30 and take a taxi to Kaiyuan Temple for check-in. Dinner at Guofeng Hall
D2 (9.2): After a buffet breakfast at the hotel, visit Wang Guowei's former residence, Jinyong Academy, Confucian Temple, and Haishen Temple. Drive along the Qiantang Ecological Green Belt for a hundred miles, visit the Fangcao Qingqing RV Base, have lunch at Chunxi Hotel, and head to the scenic park at 1:30 pm. After watching the tide, return.
Author Introduction
Duck, it's me. I used to be an accountant for 4 years and a female programmer for 7 years, but I was restless and ran around all day, playing travel, food, and writing articles, but I also came up with some tricks.
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[Watching the Qianjiang River Tide, Only by truly seeing it can one know how spectacular it is]
The main purpose of coming to Haining is to watch the tide, so of course, let's first talk about this tide. The weather is not beautiful. It has been heavy rainstorm and the whole day is gray. But now that we are here, nothing can stop us from watching the spring tide. There are still a few days left before the tide watching festival. Although we haven't caught the most spectacular moment, in fact, entering the eighth lunar month can be considered a big tide.
In Su Shi's "Observing the Waves of Zhejiang", it is said: "On the 18th day of the eighth lunar month, the magnificent tide is unparalleled in the world. Kunpeng water hits three thousand miles, forming a team to drive 100000 men. Red flags and green covers cover each other at the end of the Ming Dynasty, while black sand and white waves devour and slaughter each other." This describes the Qiantang Spring Tide. The best viewing spot now is within the scenic spot park.
The Tide Viewing Resort Park is one of the "Top Ten Scenic Parks" in Zhejiang Province, and is the best viewing location for the Haining Tide. It is equipped with a tide viewing tower and a tide viewing platform. He is the best viewing spot along the Qiantang River. The story of one city and one river tide is probably the best interpretation of the ancient city of Yanguan.
Baishitai Square is a venue for large-scale festivals, sightseeing, and cultural performances, and is a landmark building of the tidal resort park.
Two observation towers and six observation platforms are the best viewing points for the world's wonder of Haining Tide. Today's tide is around 13:50, and we will be waiting here around 13:30. Be sure to arrive early, the tide waits for no one. A white line slowly moves forward from afar.
As the tide approached, accompanied by the roaring sound of the tide, the water wall rose higher and higher, advancing side by side like a thousand armies and horses.
Finally approaching, the white waves rolled and roared incessantly. This was not yet the most spectacular August 18th, and with this momentum, it must have become even more spectacular during the tide watching festival.
The tide peak was just a moment away, and the camera shutter didn't even have time to press it. It was already rushing away, while its remaining waves were still surging in waves.
The spectacular autumn tide of the Qiantang River is related to its terrain. The mouth of the Qiantang River is much wider than the mouth of the Yangtze River, reaching over 100 kilometers wide. But within the estuary (such as Yanguan and other areas), it immediately shrank to a width of about 3 kilometers. A huge trumpet shaped mouth was formed, and the river water quickly flowed into the mouth from wide to narrow. The water surface and flow velocity rapidly increased, forming a spring tide. In addition, the tidal effect of the eighth lunar month gave rise to this wonder of the world.
In the upcoming Tide Watching Festival, it is said that in addition to watching the tide, there are also multiple grand performances that will bring tourists a grand viewing experience.
There are also national key cultural heritage units such as Fish Scale Stone Pond, Ming Dynasty Zhan'ao Pagoda, Tide Watching Pavilion - Tianfeng Haitao Pavilion, Tide Watching Poetry Monument Memorial Pavilion, Qianlong Handplanted Ancient Park, Historical Talent Monument, Zhenhai Iron Bull, and other scenic spots in the Tide Watching Resort Park. You can savor them carefully.
Come to Haining, you must come and see this wonder of the world.
Roaming in the Ancient City of Salt Officials, Appreciating the Thousand Year History and Culture
Haining Salt Officer is not only the only Chaozhou Township in China, but also one of the important birthplaces of Liangzhu culture. 2200 years ago, King Liu Bi of Wu established the Salt Officer here, and the land was named after the official name. With a thousand years of cultural heritage, this place has nurtured numerous celebrities. This place once gave birth to the opera master Chen Yujiao, the "plague medical saint" Wang Mengying, the exegetist Zhu Qifeng, the female writer Chen Xuezhao, the educator Zheng Xiaocang, the musician Liu Zhiping, the ancient calligraphy and painting appraiser Qian Jingtang, Xu Bangda, and the proofreader Zhao Wanli... The Chen family in Haining was even more prominent at that time, as well as Mr. Jin Yong's Cha family, which was also a prestigious family in Haining. So, let me explore the mysteries of this millennium old city.
Currently, the ancient city is not very large, and with the closure and renovation of Prime Minister Street, the open tourist areas can be seen in about half a day. Our route is from Wang Guowei's former residence to Jin Yong Academy, Confucius Temple, Sea God Temple, and Chunxi Gate. These places are not far apart and can be reached by walking. It is recommended to purchase a joint ticket, which also includes a scenic spot park for sightseeing.
※ Academic pilgrimage site: Wang Guowei's former residence
When it comes to Wang Guowei, the most famous one is that he proposed three levels of research knowledge: the first level: last night the west wind withered the green trees. Climbing up tall buildings alone, gazing at the endless road. The second realm: The belt gradually widens and never regrets, causing people to feel haggard and haggard. The third realm: searching for him thousands of times in the crowd. Suddenly I turn my back, she gleams in sparse and obscure lights. He was a renowned scholar with international reputation during the intersection of modern and contemporary times in China.
Wang Guowei's former residence is located in Zhoujiadou, Ximen, Yanguan Town, Haining City, Zhejiang Province. It was the residence of a young master of modern Chinese culture. It was built by his father Wang Naiyu and was then called "Yulu". The courtyard faces north and south, and the building is made of wooden structure.
A half body bronze statue of Wang Guowei is placed in the center of the front hall.
The first floor is an exhibition room, which introduces Wang Guowei's hometown, family background and life, his main academic achievements, and the research of Wang Guowei's works by domestic and foreign experts and scholars.
The second floor has restored Wang Guowei's living environment, including his parents' bedroom, Wang Guowei's bedroom, and study.
Here, you can better understand some of the life trajectories of this master of traditional Chinese culture. Therefore, it is also known as a pilgrimage site for the academic community.
※ Open your martial arts memories here: Jin Yong Academy
"Flying snow shooting white deer in the sky, laughing at the divine hero leaning on the blue mandarin" is probably a couplet that martial arts enthusiasts around the world can blurt out. Even for someone like me who doesn't like reading martial arts novels, the name Jin Yong is like thunder. Every Chinese person should be able to name one or two characters from his book: either the charming and charming Wei Xiaobao, or the eccentric elf Huang Xiaoxie.
In Yanguan, Haining, there is a Jin Yong Academy that Mr. Jin Yong personally participated in laying the foundation. It was built according to the architectural pattern of Anlan Academy during the Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty, divided into three roads: east, west, and east. It was designed and built in the traditional classical garden style, and has functions such as giving lectures, displaying, and collecting books. It will become an important place for Jin Yong's literary research.
The first thing you can see at the beginning is the stone carvings in Jin Yong's collection of works, which depict the scene characters in Jin Yong's famous novels through stone carvings. As soon as you enter, you will have a very martial arts style.
A glimpse of Mr. Jin Yong's life scene showcases his family, life, and important works, providing a more comprehensive understanding of his life.
After watching the exhibition, passing through the Taoli Gate, we arrived at the main entrance of Jinyong Academy.
First, visit the back garden area, where rockeries and green plants set off simple pavilions and towers. In addition, the baptism of rainstorm makes it a bit chivalrous.
The Shujian Hall, a quaint lecture hall, is located on a pool of clear water. In the center and lower part of the hall is a wooden carving hanging screen with the theme of the Qianjiang River Tide, which depicts the Qianjiang River Tide.
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Going further ahead is the library, showcasing the achievements of Jin Yong - the "Exhibition of Confucian and Heroic Jin Yong". In the center of the exhibition hall, there is a glass display cabinet with Mr. Jin Yong's sword.
If you are a fan of martial arts, then coming to Jin Yong Academy will definitely give you a familiar sense of familiarity, opening up your memories of martial arts here.
The Holy Land of Chinese Culture: Confucius Temple and Academy
The Confucian Temple of Yan Guan was rebuilt on its original site, and the entire temple is relatively new. Following the regulations of the Left School and Right Temple, one can also see the ancient ruins of the Taihe Yuanqi Square.
Upon entering the scenic area, the first thing to see is Zhaobi, Pangongfang, and Panchi.
After entering the Lingxing Gate, there is the main hall of the Confucian Temple, including the Dacheng Hall and the Chongsheng Temple.
Because the entire scenic area is actually rebuilt, although it appears to be modeled after the original Confucian Temple, it still lacks historical background. I hurried by and took some photos casually.
On the right side of the Confucian Temple is the School Palace, which includes the Confucian Gate, the Ritual Gate, the Minglun Hall, the Jingyi Pavilion, and the Zun Jing Pavilion. Among them, Minglun Hall is a place for reading, lecturing, preaching, and researching, teaching people to understand the ethical and moral standards between people.
The Confucian Temple with red walls, black tiles, and ancient fragrance is quite suitable for taking photos.
※ Jiangnan Forbidden City: Sea God Temple
The Sea God Temple is probably the most noteworthy historical building in Yanguan Ancient Town, known as the Forbidden City of Jiangnan.
It was all carved with White Marble, and it took only more than one year under the conditions at that time. It can be said that it was a collection of national craftsmen to worship the legendary "God of Zhejiang". Currently, only buildings on the central axis remain, but still display the aura of royal supervision.
The main hall of the Sea God Temple is the most magnificent, constructed in the form of the Taihe Hall in the Forbidden City. It is a double eaved gable roof style palace building, with five pillars and seven levels. The colonnades, steps and stone railings are all carved with White Marble. Such a tall and exquisite palace with so many White Marble stones as building materials cannot be found in Zhejiang, and it is also extremely rare in China.
Every year during the Tide Watching Festival, the Sea God Temple also holds a folk activity called "Tide God Worship".
And coming out of the Sea God Temple is the Chunxi Gate, which is a part of the ancient city wall of Yanguan and is now being rebuilt from the original site. The thick wall displays the historical heritage of the ancient city.
Walking down this line, we can explore the splendid and ancient culture of Yanguan Ancient City, which has lasted for over 2200 years, in the winding streets and alleys. We can also explore the unique celebrity culture and reap the rewards.
Ecological Green Space and Novel RVs in Ancient Cities
The city history of Yanguan can be traced back more than 2000 years, but with the impact of the new era, this ancient city has also been revitalized, just like this one hundred mile Qiantang ecological green space, with a total length of 12.5 kilometers, which is very suitable for walking and cycling.
This ecological corridor has different scenery throughout the four seasons, like a green lung in the city, bringing you endless refreshing. On this ecological corridor, there is also a Chaoqi Oriental Sculpture Park, showcasing the works of domestic and foreign sculpture artists, reflecting the "Chaocheng" characteristics of Haining through various forms.
The Fangcao Qingqing RV Campsite, suitable for young people to explore, is also here. You can experience the fun of RVs, as well as CS, archery fields, children's playgrounds, and more, suitable for trendy people to vacation.
Check into the most beautiful hotel in Haining and experience the charm of ancient houses
The first time I went to Haining and stayed at this Kaiyuan Temple, I was really intoxicated at first glance. Arriving in the rainstorm, the gate of the hotel is actually an antique memorial archway, guarded by "officers and soldiers", as if to travel through the ancient times.
The ancient and fragrant Jiangnan ancient houses, with all the waiters walking in ancient costumes and Hanfu. The music in the hotel is played in a loop of Jiangnan silk and bamboo ancient music, which is infinitely intoxicating. Under the scouring of rainstorm, a layer of Jiangnan ancient rhyme was covered. You can see the years of history and hear the storms of the past.
The front desk of the hotel is also in the style of ancient houses, and can also provide rental Hanfu, which is very suitable for taking photos.
The room is also full of bamboo charm, and the second floor windowsill has an excellent feeling of listening to the rain. The dry and wet separation of the bathroom and various facilities are very user-friendly. It is also equipped with a super large umbrella, which is quite considerate.
Equipped with a Guofengtang restaurant, you can call a free electric scooter for pick-up and drop off, with a wide variety of breakfast options. No wonder Qianlong went to Jiangnan six times and stayed in Haining four times. It was really beautiful.
[Eating in Haining, Salt Official Specialty Dish]
To come to Haining, besides watching the trend, one must also taste the delicious food. Check in at the Salt Official Kaiyuan Temple and recommend a Haining Salt Official specialty dish at this national style restaurant.
The Story of One City, One Jar of Meat, Haining Jar of Meat is essentially a braised jar of crispy meat, which is also similar to Tong'an Fengrou in Xiamen. On the table is a large piece of three-layer meat, which is cut open and picked up, fat but not greasy, and serves well. In June of the eighth year of Xining in the Northern Song Dynasty (1075), Su Dongpo came to Haining to write the "Record of the Great Compassion Pavilion of Anguo Temple". He stayed and tasted the pot meat and was very happy. He used it to comfort the migrant workers who had built the Su dike, and made adjustments to the seasoning himself. As a result, the pot meat was widely spread and known as "Dongpo Braised Pork".
The Fish Ball in Light Soup and Haining fish balls are different from those in other places. They are pure fish without any ingredients. They taste delicious, tender and refreshing. A simple boiled clear soup is incredibly delicious.
Eye cake is a small Dim sum in Haining. It is square cakes with fillings like eyes, so it is also called "eye cake". There are two flavors: salty and sweet. The salty one is filled with meat filling, while the sweet one is filled with bean paste, suitable for snacks after meals.
The palace banquet ball is said to come from the Chen family of the salt official in Haining. It is made by kneading vegetables, fresh fish, meat skin, etc. into meatballs, with a delicious and mellow taste.
Meiji Eel Shredded, this dish has become a calling card of Haining because Xu Zhimo likes it. It has a slightly spicy taste and the main ingredient is eel, but it is crispy and appetizing, making it irresistible!
Come to Haining, stay at Kaiyuan Temple, and have a delicious Haining specialty dish. It's really great!
[Postscript]
The story of a city, the tide of a river, the August tide of Haining Salt Officials, the millennium history, and unique cuisine are all reasons worth checking in. This low-key ancient city in Zhejiang has a charming charm. It is a "trendy city", a capital of celebrities, and also one of the birthplaces of Liangzhu culture. The historical facts of Qianlong's six visits to Jiangnan and four residences of salt officials have attracted this eternal emperor to come multiple times?
Coming, you will know~Haining Salt Officer, waiting for you!
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