2020 is destined to be worth remembering. At the beginning of the year, I saw news reports that the Yunnan Nujiang Section of National Highway 219 (also known as the Meili Highway) and the Degong Highway (connecting Gongshan and Deqin) were renovated and opened to traffic one after another.
I remember two years ago, I began to hope to walk the Nujiang River. The plan at that time was to take the first line of inspection and inspection. However, due to the poor road conditions, I had to switch to Daocheng Aden after reaching Mangkang.
Now I can get what I want, but I am trapped by the COVID-19 epidemic. I can travel in China until June. Yunnan has entered the rainy season again, which lasted until early November. I quickly booked a ticket and set out in mid-November.
Our itinerary is like this:
On the first day, Shanghai flew to Kunming-Dali
The next day, Dali-Tengchong
The third day, Tengchong
The fourth day, Tengchong-Lushui
On the fifth day, Lushui-Bingzhong Falling
Day 6, C. China Falling-Shangri-La
Day 7, Shangri-La-Lijiang
Day 8, Lijiang-Kunming
Day 9, Kunming-Shanghai
In the parking lot of Kunming Changshui Airport, the car rental company collects the car by self-service and then travels to Dali.
Dali has been here many times, so this time we use it as a halfway point.
We set off in the direction of Tengchong early the next morning.
When I was preparing to travel in Shanghai, I paid attention to the weather in Yunnan and found that the temperature was similar to Shanghai, so I dressed quite thick. However, when I came to the field, I found that the sun on the plateau was so hot that short-sleeved clothes were enough.
Arriving at Tengchong at noon, I booked a B & B converted from a single-family villa. It is surrounded by villas of various styles. It is built halfway up the mountain and overlooks the city of Tengchong. The whole area is very quiet and it is really a suitable place to live in.
For a short rest (mainly to avoid the sun, which is too hot), go to the Rehai Scenic Area in the southwest of Tengchong City. This is a geothermal scenic area in the canyon.
Climbing the road along the scenic spot, you will pass through more than a dozen various hot springs before and after, and finally you will arrive at the "Rehai Big Rolling Pot", whose outlet temperature is as high as 98℃. For this reason, one of the tourist projects is to buy a string of eggs or duck eggs in the hands of local people, and then put them into a big rolling pot to cook (also known as one of the so-called Eight Monsters of Yunnan: egg skewers are sold); there are also many people sitting in the shade of the tree and soaking their feet in hot spring water. It is probably enough to treat athlete's foot, haha.
There is a hot spring swimming pool and a hotel in the scenic area. It should be quite comfortable to soak in the hot spring if you stay in it, but we are not envious, because the B & B we stay in (Danfeng Hot Spring Inn) also has hot spring water at fixed times at night, so that you can also take a hot spring bath at your accommodation point.
Leave Rehai and go to Heshun Ancient Town, an important town on the Ancient Tea Horse Road. It has been prosperous for hundreds of years and now it has become a popular place for tourists. The main streets and alleys of the town are lined with B & Bs and restaurants.
On the third morning, I got up and ate the breakfast carefully prepared by the owner of the B & B, and drove to Ginkgo Village. The village was not very big, so it took about an hour to visit it.
It is a pity that the ginkgo trees are basically in a semi-yellow state but not yellow state, and the village has not been well planned and constructed. They appear dirty and messy, and are not very ornamental. If not for the half-price ticket policy implemented throughout Yunnan in the second half of the year, this attraction was really not cost-effective.
So we returned to the B & B early to rest to avoid the cold afternoon. At dusk, we went to the ancient town of Heshun for a stroll (tickets to the ancient town can be used within 3 days).
The plan for the fourth day is to travel from Tengchong to Lushui. This journey only takes four hours, so we can finish breakfast leisurely before setting off after everything is ready.
After walking a section of highway and turning to the provincial highway, Yunnan's climate is really suitable for the growth of flowers, plants and trees. Flowers are often in full bloom on both sides of the provincial highway. Driving on such a road is also a pleasure.
After a section of the provincial highway, the Nujiang River followed us forward. Since the rainy season has passed, the water volume in the Nujiang River does not look large and is a little dark grayish-green. We joked that this is a Nujiang River that is not angry.
After entering the provincial highway, we pass three border checkpoints all the way. Although it should be understood to prevent illegal activities such as drug trafficking and smuggling, repeated experiences are quite annoying for us tourists.
After taking a break in Lushui and strolling around the city, I couldn't help but be surprised that the development of the small city in the southwest border is quite good.
The fifth day's journey was quite difficult. It took nearly seven hours to drive from Lushui to Bingzhongluo, so we left early in the morning.
National Highway 219 has been renovated quite well, but parking service areas, leisure trails and bicycle lanes are being built along the roadside, so building materials often occupy half of the road surface. Fortunately, there are not many vehicles coming and going, so the impact on driving is not big.
This trail is estimated to be very long. We joked that we should build it along the Nujiang River all the way to Bingzhongluo. Now that we think about it, it seems that it is still possible.
The scenery along the way was pretty good, and the weather was as good as ever, so I was in a good mood to drive. I have passed through several interesting attractions: Shiyue, the First Bay of Nujiang River, and Taohua Island.
When we arrive at Peach Blossom Island, we are actually on the edge of Bingzhongluo Town. There is a viewing platform that can both view Peach Blossom Island and overlook Bingzhongluo Town.
Bingzhongluo is known as a place where "humans and gods live together". Looking at this observation deck really matches this title, but I am afraid I will be disappointed when I arrive in the town. On a main street in the town, cars are parked indiscriminately, and dust and garbage can be seen everywhere on the road, making it a mess.
Taking advantage of the early morning, I drove to Qiu Natong and passed by Wuli Village on the way. Wuli Village is known as Little Switzerland. Looking across the Nu River, Wuli Village has no similarities to the Switzerland we have traveled through. There is still a long way to go before rural construction in remote areas of China.
After driving through the bucket cart in autumn, I really couldn't understand where the praise on the strategies came from. I reluctantly returned to Bingzhong Luo. Maybe we came at the wrong time, and it might be better if the autumn scenery was stronger.
During the first two days of the trip, relocation houses for poverty alleviation and housing in other places will be seen along both sides of the Nujiang River. These residential houses are multi-storey residences, and the exterior walls are painted with bright colors. I wonder if these immigrants can adapt to life outside the mountains.
The sixth day of the journey was quite arduous again, from Bingzhongluo to Shangri-La.
However, what was unexpected was that the Degong Highway, which had just been opened to traffic for more than half a year, has been experiencing landslides and water damage since the beginning of Bangdang, that is, during the process of crossing Gaoligong Mountain and Nushan Mountain.
After crossing Nushan, the road conditions gradually improved, and it was good when entering the Devi Line. Although the bad road conditions made driving difficult, the scenery along the way was quite good.
Fortunately, on a viewing platform shortly after National Highway 214 in Deqin County, Meili Snow Mountain, which had not been seen in Deqin four times before (including two special stops at Feilai Temple to see the true face of Meili Snow Mountain), is displayed in front of us without reservation this time. It is particularly majestic and beautiful against the blue sky. Although it is not the beautiful scenery of Jinshan Mountain in the sunshine, this moment still feels infinitely beautiful.
As we approached the Urban area of Shangri-La, we saw the Napa Sea again at a high point on National Highway 214.
Entering the Urban area of Shangri-La, I felt its development. There were more vehicles and many accommodation options. This time, I chose the newly opened Ramada Hotel and had a quite authentic Cantonese meal in its restaurant in the evening, which was a consolation for the past few days.
The seventh day is leisurely, Shangri-La to Lijiang.
In the morning, I went to Pudacuo National Park, which I had not seen for more than ten years. However, the plateau temperature in Shangri-La was quite low in the morning and evening in mid-November, and it was only-5℃ in the morning after sunrise, which caused multiple alarm signals in vehicles. It was probably caused by the low temperature. Therefore, I drove carefully on the way to Pudacuo, fearing that anything unexpected would affect the car's subsequent journey. The road to Pudacuo is under construction and dust is flying.
After swimming in Pudacuo, I started the vehicle and found that all alarm signals had disappeared. I thought the vehicle had returned to normal after the warm sunshine.
It is precisely because of the low temperature of Shangri-La that the scenery in the park feels slightly bleak. In addition, the park is cloudy, and the sun only occasionally shows its face, which is not highly appreciated.
After leaving Pudacuo and driving on National Highway 214, the sun shines brightly immediately. I can only think this: Maybe Pudacuo wants us to come back in spring and summer.
I originally thought that today's journey should be smooth and light, but the section of National Highway 214 entering Lijiang was somehow blocked. I had to follow the navigation and take another national highway and take a short section of highway into the city. This national highway was going around in the mountains, and it was actually a small surprise to see Lashihai from afar on the top of the mountain.
Lijiang's development seems incredible. The first time I came to Lijiang was to attend a conference. From the Guanfang Hotel where I stayed, I walked to the ancient city of Lijiang, all I saw was farmland or grassland. When I saw Lijiang for the second time, I found that it was already a lively city. The next two times and this time, I felt that Lijiang was a very large-scale city.
On the eighth day, we took the highway from Lijiang back to Kunming.
I thought it would be a boring journey, but I didn't expect that after leaving Lijiang, I would first see an unknown small lake in a parking and resting area. Under the morning light, it was matched with red soil and blue lake water. The scenery was so beautiful.
In the Shuanglang Service Area, I was only preparing to refuel, but I could actually enjoy the scenery of Erhai Lake from the observation deck in the service area.
Two accidental encounters made us sigh: Please have a dozen more of this free scenery!
Driving on the highway, I accidentally thought that maybe the next time I come on this route, I can take the highway all the way to Shangri-La. The country's road construction has been really strong in recent years, and Tengchong has also quickly opened the high-speed railway.
I returned safely to Kunming and checked in the hotel. I will return to Shanghai tomorrow. I will sleep well today and let the sunshine and beauty of these days be relived in my dreams.
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