The ancient city of Lijiang in Yunnan was the second stop for reporters after completing four trips to Dali. In the evening of March 21, 2021, the K9627 train taken by the reporter successfully arrived at Lijiang Railway Station from Dali after more than two hours 'drive. I called on the train and called Didi arrived as scheduled. The online taxi picked us up and quickly drove towards the ancient city of Lijiang.

Go to Lijiang (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

In fact, reporters are no strangers to Lijiang. On November 29, 1998, 23 years ago in the last century, reporters came to Lijiang twice with the China Railway Brigade special train for filming the large-scale TV feature film "Chinese National Sports Naxi Nationality" and on October 30, 2005, and stayed at Lijiang Hotel and Yangji Fuxinglong Hotel outside the ancient city.

Arriving in Lijiang (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

This time I came to the Ancient City of Lijiang for the third time, because I had a trip to Shangri-La and Lugu Lake. Lijiang and the two places are in a triangular shape. Both places are in the north of Lijiang, but the former is located in the northwest and the latter is in the northeast. Since there is no direct road between the two places, and Lijiang is just located between the two places below the triangle, we use this as a base camp transit point for travel, and we can have a three-in and three-out trip trip to the Ancient City of Lijiang.

Overlooking the ancient city of Lijiang (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The ancient city of Lijiang was founded during the Song Dynasty. After the Mu family moved the center of his rule from Baisha Ancient Town to Lion Rock, he built houses and cities here. It took hundreds of years of development to become the ancient city of Lijiang today. Now you can go to the ancient city of Lijiang. You can see the magnificent Mufu, and you can overlook the entire ancient city of Lijiang by climbing to the highest point of Mufu.

Walking into the Ancient City of Lijiang (Photo: Wang Jue)

After more than 20 minutes 'drive, we arrived at the Intercontinental Hefu Hotel. Xue Zhijie, who stayed at the Shuipanju Inn that night, had already been waiting for the arrival of reporters and his party. I lived outside the ancient city twice, but in order to get in close contact with the ancient city, I specially chose to stay in the ancient city. However, since cars were not allowed in the ancient city, Xiao Xue enthusiastically found a tricycle and walked for more than 10 minutes to Shuipanju Inn.

Shuipanju Inn (Photo: Wang Jue)

Walking into the guest room on the second floor of the delicious inn, I heard a knock on the door as soon as I put down my bags. It turned out that Xiao Xue had brought us two bowls of steaming white fungus soup and a few hot flower cakes. After tasting it, a warm feeling of first arriving in the ancient city instantly surged into my heart.

Night view of the ancient city (Photo: Wang Jue)

Shuipanju Inn is located in the center of the ancient city. After a short rest, we walked out of the alley where we stayed at the inn and walked around Shiban Street in the ancient city. When you go out, you will see the bright night of the ancient city that is endless. Although this is the third time I have come here, due to the interval of more than 20 years, the span of time makes people feel that the changes here are too great. What came into view was the scene of bustling people celebrating in the light-stricken ancient city.

Sakura Restaurant Night (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Not far away is the Sakura Restaurant at the night view of the ancient city. The upper and lower floors of the restaurant that lives next to the water are filled with diners. Against the backdrop of the lights, it is really very beautiful. Because more tourists come here in addition to diners, the popularity of this place is quite popular.

The lights on the water bank are bright (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Here, people have almost no hope of taking a picture with no one in the background. They can only avoid as much as possible and seek a more ideal photo. There is a small river winding through here, filled with various flowers, plants and decorations. It is filled with water mist, like a fairyland. Especially against the bright lights at night, it is even more dreamy and intoxicating.

Dream Dashiqiao (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Stroll along the water and come to the Dashi Bridge. The night sky at Dashiqiao is also one of the most beautiful scenes in the ancient city. Some netizens once vividly described this: the breeze blew the leaves and played the early autumn symphony, and the lights stained the bridge like ink, reflected in the lake into a beautiful painting.

Gucheng Commercial Street (Photo: Wang Jue)

On the bank of the Xiushui River, the water reflects the small city. Only in the darkness of this settled ancient city can the body and mind relax most comfortably. I took a gentle breath. The warmth in the air was mixed with the faint fragrance of flowers, which was distant and faint yet refreshing.

The night is fading (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

It is late at night in the ancient city, and the lights in the small town are like fireflies flying far away, flashing dimmer and dimmer, and the whole city seems to be shrouded in a dream. Light shows and water shows have become the most beautiful scenery in Lijiang late at night. The light curtains scattered in the city are touching people's heartstrings like sparks. It's so romantic. The night when the reporter entered the ancient city of Lijiang, he watched a series of beautiful ancient city nights and felt that the trip was really worthwhile.

Early morning in the ancient city (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

In particular, some small alleys in the ancient city will be hung with red lanterns, which are matched with the characteristic buildings of the Naxi people. In addition to the antique buildings, the small courtyards in the ancient city of Lijiang are also unique. Each inn will create its own small courtyard. It may plant a few green bamboos, or a few flowers, and a wooden table, a few chairs and a movable swing. After visiting the ancient city, you will sit down and have a few cups of tea and chat with the innkeeper. The atmosphere of the Shuipanju Inn where the reporter stayed can make people feel this taste.

Reporter and He Yang (Photo: Wang Jue)

At 7 a.m. on March 22, I woke up from my sleep and walked out of the room of the Shuipanju Inn in the Ancient City of Lijiang and looked into the distance. There was a pale red cloud on the horizon. After breakfast, I arrived at the ancient city's streets and alleys were empty and extremely peaceful. Ten minutes after walking out of the ancient city, we waited for the local tour guide and driver who came to pick us up. A handsome and handsome young man born in the 1990s was named He Yang. The car started and headed for Shangri-La.

Sangushui (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

On March 23, the reporters and his party successfully concluded their trip to Shangri-La, and He Yang drove us into the ancient city of Lijiang for the second time. On the way back to Lijiang, He Yang took us to a "Sangushui Scenic Area" called "The Beautiful Place in Lijiang" for sightseeing. It is located on the bank of the Jinsha River. Take a scenic sightseeing bus to enter the scenic area and walk on the plank road in the canyon. It is like a world of water.

Corner of an ancient village (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

When you come to the observation deck at the commanding height of Sangushui, you can see the beautiful scenery of the Jinsha River and the ancient villages along the river. It includes scenic spots such as Desheng Village and the Ancient Tea Horse Road. Desheng Village is located at the first bend of the Yangtze River and was once the four-fork intersection of the Ancient Tea Horse Road. It is famous for its last caravan and the most complete ruins of the ancient tea-horse road.

Sangushui Waterfall (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

While telling the process of tea-horse exchanges, the ancient tea-horse ancient road also tells the truth of the survival and continuation of thousands of years of history on the ancient tea-horse ancient road. The harmonious coexistence between people is "virtue". "Virtue" demonstrates the unity, friendship, mutual help and mutual assistance among our ethnic minorities, and values integrity and loyalty more important than life. This is also the essence of the ancient tea-horse road for thousands of years.

Scenery of the Jinsha River (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

When we come to Desheng Village, most merchants will stay here for a few days to exchange goods. Because Desheng Village has a simple folk customs and hospitality, and has always maintained this fine tradition, which we still want to continue to carry forward to this day. Merchants are willing to conduct fair and just transactions here, each taking what it needs, and making it for trade and business purposes. The original intention of "virtue" is to do things in accordance with the objective needs of nature, society, and mankind. There is also a saying called "gold is born from virtue", and then there is a place to make gold.

Memorial Stone of the Ancient Tea Horse Road (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

After finishing Sangu Water, the tourist reporter and his party drove to Shigu Town, located in the west of the ancient city of Lijiang. This is also the place where the reporter once came here on December 1, 1998 to shoot the large-scale TV feature film "Dangqiu", the Naxi sports event of the Chinese ethnic sports. At the request of the reporter, He Yang drove me here for the second time to explore and reminisce about an unforgettable time back then.

Photo taken by the Jinsha River (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Before arriving in Shigu Town, we first visit the famous First Bay of the Yangtze River Scenic Spot. The Yangtze River pours down from the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, the "roof of the world", and enters Yunnan from northwest Yunnan. Together with the Lancang River and the Nujiang River, it flows side by side through the mountains and deep valleys of the Hengduan Mountains, creating the kind of "three rivers flowing in parallel" that is rare in the world. magnificent landscape.

Photo taken in the First Bay of the Yangtze River (Photo: He Yang)

Not far from the first bay of the Yangtze River is Shigu Town. This was a transportation hub for Yunnan and Tibet in ancient times. In the late Southern Song Dynasty, Kublai Khan's West Route Army conquering Dali State once fought fiercely with some forces in Jujin Prefecture here. The Lijiang Road Official Office was once located here in the Yuan Dynasty. In the Ming Dynasty, an inspection department was set up at Shimen Pass near Shigu Street, and in the Qing Dynasty, Shigu Flood was set up. Shigu Town is also one of the five ferries crossing the Jinsha River by the Second Front Army of the Chinese Workers and Peasants Red Army.

Scenery of the First Bay of the Yangtze River (Photo: Wang Jue)

On the west side of Shigu Town, there is a hillside overlooking the Yangtze River Bay, which is a better location to photograph the first bay of the Yangtze River. It was on a large wooden shelf on this hillside that year that several Naxi women showed the crew the wonderful Naxi autumn movement.

Taking photos of Dangqiu in those years (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The entire road from Shigu to Tacheng is about 100 kilometers close to the west bank of the Jinsha River. To enter this line, the first thing is to walk into the picturesque scenery of the river bay. The historical relics and ancient ferries on both sides of the river allow you to see a historical and cultural corridor, a sense of thickness will run through the entire travel route.

Shigu Pavilion (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Arriving in Shigu Town, I strolled to a small pavilion named Shigu Town because of a stone drum standing upright. The reporter was very excited to see the stone drum again and recalled the scene of the crew working here. An inscription is engraved on the drum surface of the stone drum, which records the achievements of the local prefect of Lijiang who marched north to Tubo and won and triumphantly. What's even more amazing is that there is a visible healing crack on the drum surface that is almost as high as a person.

Close view of Shigu (Photo: Wang Jue)

It is said that this seam will open and close automatically, indicating the prosperity and decline of the country. Mr. Guo Moruo came here in 1963, and was amazed by this and left behind a calligraphy treasure, which was used by the villagers as a couplet on the pavilion and corridor: the gains and losses of the people's hearts reflect the history of the rise and fall of ancient and modern times, and the stone drums combine to account for the world's chaos.

Shigu Town Streets (Photo: Wang Jue)

I am very excited to visit the First Bay of the Yangtze River and Shigu Town again. 23 years passed in a flash. However, although the natural scenery in front of me has not changed much, the surrounding environment has changed too much...

Three visits to Lijiang (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

At about 4 p.m. that day, the reporters and their party returned to Lijiang smoothly. He Yang sent us to the Ivy Resort Hotel in the Ancient City where we stayed on the night of our arrival. The spacious suite is warm and comfortable. Since the hotel is very close to Mufu, I put down my bags and went to Mufu, the ancient city of Lijiang, for sightseeing and viewing.

Corner of the Ivy League Hotel (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

I have come to the ancient city of Lijiang several times to visit it, and today I finally got my wish. Mufu, located at the foot of Lion Mountain in the ancient city of Lijiang, is the common name of Lijiang Mu's Tusi Yamen and the "Grand View Garden" of Lijiang's ancient city culture. There is a saying that "there is the Forbidden City in the north and the Mufu in the south". It is a glorious architectural art garden, which fully reflects the style and temperament of the Central Plains architecture in the Ming Dynasty. At the same time, it retains the simple and rough charm of the Central Plains architecture in the Tang and Song Dynasties. The entire building complex is facing west to east, with jade ditches in the mansion and flowing water, which also shows the spirit of the traditional culture of the Naxi people.

Lijiang Mufu Gate (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Looking back at historical records, the Naxi people originally did not have the surname of the Han nationality. After Zhu Yuanzhang established the Ming Dynasty, Ajia Ade, the chief of the Naxi nationality in Lijiang, northwest Yunnan, assessed the situation and "led his followers to submit" in 1382 AD and called for the courtesy of a minister. This move was greatly appreciated by Zhu Yuanzhang. Zhu removed one stroke and one horizontal line of his surname and gave him the Han surname "Mu". From then on, the traditional Naxi father-son system was changed to the Han surname.

Mufu Courtyard (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The Mufu, a large-scale palace-style complex built by Tusi Mu, covered an area of more than 100 acres in its heyday and had nearly 100 buildings. It was the heart of the 800-year-old city of Dayan. Although it is just a Tusi house, its luxury and grandeur are no less than the official residence of any princes and nobles. It was the political and cultural center of Lijiang in the Ming Dynasty. Xu Xiake, a traveler and geographer in the Ming Dynasty, once marveled in his "Diary of Travel in Yunnan" that "the beauty of the palace is similar to that of a king."

Scenery of Mufu (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

According to the Records of Lijiang Prefecture, the former Mufu Hall was majestic and had a strict layout. The central axis alone was 369 meters long. On the central axis, there were halls such as the Council Hall, the Wanjuan Tower, and the Dharma Hall. There were houses on both sides, and there were countless towers and pavilions; the garden corridors were unique in style. Its overall architectural style is "built like the Forbidden City".

Mufu Yiran Pavilion (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Nowadays, when you walk into Mufu, you will see the four words "Rain Flowing Fragrance" on the wooden archway that catches people's eyes. This is the homophonic of "Go to Book" in Naxi, reflecting the wisdom and wisdom of the Naxi people in advocating knowledge. The stone archway is made of stone and has a three-story structure. It is a masterpiece of domestic stone architecture.

Meeting Hall (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Later, after entering the mansion, the Council Hall that I saw one after another was dignified, spacious and magnificent. It was the hall for Tusi to discuss politics; Wanjuanlou collects the essence of two thousand years of cultural heritage. Thousands of volumes of Dongba Sutra, hundreds of volumes of Buddhist scriptures, Liu Gong's poetry collections, and many calligraphy and paintings by famous scholars. They are all rare relics of the Hanlin and treasures of the academy. The Dharma Hall is also known as the Hou Meeting Hall. It is the hall where the Tusi discuss family affairs. Guangbi Tower is the gate building of the back garden. Historically, its building is called "Jiaxi Dianxi". Yuyin Tower is a place where imperial edicts are received and a place for singing, dancing, and banquets. Sanqing Hall is the product of Mu's Tusi's admiration of Taoist spirit.

Overlooking from Yuyin Tower (Photo: Wang Jue)

Some scholars pointed out that "if you can't reach Mufu, you can't reach Lijiang." Looking at the Mufu and looking at these ancient Mufu buildings of the Ming and Qing Dynasties that are now in the world, the grandeur of the buildings, the glory of the palaces, the exquisite carvings, the exquisite components, and the brilliance of the paintings are truly beautiful and unparalleled. All of them are awe-inspiring and deeply aware of the profoundness of the ancient architectural art of Lijiang in China. This is also the biggest gain of the reporter's second visit to Lijiang Ancient City.

Photo taken by Mufu (Photo: He Yang)

On the morning of March 25, the reporter successfully completed his trip to Lugu Lake. After more than four hours of driving, he returned to the Ancient City of Lijiang for the third time at 1 p.m.. Xiao Wang, the Shuipanju Inn where he stayed, was already waiting at the intersection of Hefu Intercontinental to pick us up. We entered the Gucheng Inn again and checked in the waterside room.

Ancient City Huaqiao (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Following the previous two trips to the ancient city, I returned to the inn for lunch break and had nothing to do and wandered on the streets again. On this trip, the reporter started from Qiyi Street and walked through the streets and alleys along the water bank, passed Gongmenkou, Dashiqiao Bridge, passed Chongren Lane, passed Baisuifang to Wuyi Street, and finally arrived at Sifang Street, making a full circle.

Photo taken on Sifang Street (Photo: He Yang)

Sifang Street is located in the center of the ancient city of Lijiang. There are six colorful flower and stone streets around it, radiating away from the mountains and connecting streets and alleys. It is famous for its unique streetscape where colorful stones pave the ground, clear water washes the streets, the city is in the middle of the day, and the streets are washed at dusk. The surrounding alleys open to you. It is said that the Mu Tusi of the Ming Dynasty was built in the shape of its seal. This is the most important hub station on the ancient tea-horse road. Since the Ming and Qing Dynasties, merchants from all walks of life have gathered, and the cultures of various ethnic groups have gathered here. It is the center of economic and cultural exchanges in Lijiang.

Photography on Sifang Street that year (Photo: Guo Gang)

Sifang Street is also the place where reporters are most familiar with the ancient city of Lijiang and have left fond memories. On the morning of November 30, 1998, Naxi villagers living in all directions of the ancient city came here to participate in our filming of the Naxi special film. About 500 people performed wonderful national sports dances such as "Ta Tiao" and "Li 'er Bacha" in front of our cameras.

Scenery of the ancient city (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

At that time, Sifang Street was full of food stalls, and business was booming every day. However, for the filming that day, the merchants in the food stall closed for most of the day. The film crew was really moved.

The gate of Shuhe Ancient Town (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

On the morning of March 26, it was the last trip for reporters to enter and leave the ancient city of Lijiang three times. First, He Yang drove us to Shuhe Ancient Town. There are few people in the ancient town in the morning, and it feels extremely peaceful to walk through the streets and alleys of the ancient town.

Photo taken in the ancient town (Photo: He Yang)

The ancient town of Shuhe is called "Shaowu" in Naxi. Because the mountain shape behind the village is like a pile of peaks, the village is named after the mountains and is spread and mutated. It means "village under the peak." It is one of the earliest settlements of Naxi ancestors in Lijiang Bazi.

Scenery of the ancient town (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

This is an important well-preserved market town on the ancient tea-horse road. It is also a living specimen of the transition of Naxi ancestors from agricultural civilization to commercial civilization. It is a model for market town construction formed by opening up to the outside world and horse gang activities. Shuhe is an important part of the ancient city of Lijiang, a world cultural heritage. In 2005, it was selected as CCTV's "Famous Charming Town in China".

Scenery of Black Dragon Pool (Photo: Wang Jue)

I ended my sightseeing in Shuhe Ancient Town in Lijiang and came to the Black Dragon Pool not far away. This is also the third time I have come here, but I have no impression of it because of the long time. Lijiang Black Dragon Pool Park has the Han Temple, Tang Plum, Song Bai, and Ming Tombs known as the "Four Beauties". A pool of clear water gushed out of the ground, clear and thorough, and the scenery is elegant.

Lakes and mountains (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

It is said that a long time ago, there were ten flood dragons that often did evil in the world. Lu Dongbin subdued nine of them and suppressed them in the urban area of Tuodong Ancient Building, that is, under the ancient tower, leaving a little black dragon to live here, asking it to benefit the people. This is why the Black Dragon Pool got its name.

Photo taken by Black Dragon Pool (Photo: He Yang)

With the end of the Heilongtan sightseeing tour, this reporter's three-in-three trip to Yunnan and three trips to the ancient city of Lijiang also came to a successful conclusion. He Yang drove us to Lijiang Sanyi Airport, and from here we took Capital Airlines Flight JD5216 back to Beijing. So far, the eight-day trip to Dali, Lijiang, Shangri-La, and Lugu Lake in Yunnan ended perfectly. (Photo and text: Feng Ganyong)