Preface: Lijiang, crazy about it again

In the early morning, as the pulley of the plane landed and rolled, I set foot on the land of Yunnan again. I can't remember how many times I have come to Lijiang. In the past ten years, I have been here with friends and family, in different seasons.

This year is quite special. The spring rain in Jiangnan is slightly melancholy. It has been pattering underground for a few days. I have stayed at home for three months without going out. Recently, I have just been able to go out to relax. After thinking about it, I still decided to return to Lijiang.

Lijiang is noisy, and you can party all night long; Lijiang is also peaceful, and you can sit in a sun-filled courtyard and stare blankly for a long time. This place carries too many memories and past of me. Perhaps every city that lives near the water has its own charming charm.

Some people say that when a hundred people go to Lijiang, they will find a hundred different scenery. I have been back and forth over the years, and even if I have visited repeatedly, it will give me different surprises every time.

Whether it is blue skies and white clouds, snowy mountains, rolling mountains, pastoral meadows, curling smoke, how can people not be crazy about it? I think that many years later, when memories are flooded, Lijiang in my mind will be a unique existence every time.

Shuhe Ancient Town: The joy of reunion after a long separation

People often say: one person's Shuhe, a group of people's Lijiang. Shuhe Ancient Town is small and comfortable, and uncontested. It fell in love with this small world when it first came here. Later, it came back with friends and family and still liked it.

Walking on the mottled blue stone road, trickling streams along the roadside, ancient trees and willows swaying gently, the warm sunshine relaxes the body and empties my thoughts. This is probably the ideal life I want.

Dark red paint, ancient wooden facades, handmade craftsmen, elderly people sitting idle outside the store, and every corner of the town have their own busy figures, outlining the simple natural nature of Shuhe.

Compared with previous years, today's ancient town is much quieter, and there are not many tourists on Sifang Street. Only then did I realize that time was so fast and fleeting. Seven years have passed in the blink of an eye, and this place carries the most beautiful memories of all my youth.

From the beginning to the present, it has always maintained a moderate pace, without deliberately catering to it. It lives in this world and enjoys its own enjoyment. Whether you come or not, it is there.

The only thing that has changed is that when we come to Shuhe, the time starts to slow down, and we have more time to sit down and review ourselves and the past. Over the years, I have traveled to many places and met many people, but the story that happened in Shuhe is like a glass of fine wine last night. After being drunk, I will still reminisce about it.

The inn I stay in every time I come here is Huajiantang Moxiangyuan. It is located in the center of the ancient town, just a few steps away from Sifang Street. It is known as the "Danfeng Land with Books" and is a veritable "Scholarship Gate" among the many courtyards of Huajiantang.

Walking into this courtyard, it was still the same cute puppy, lazily basking in the sun on the bench, looking thoughtful. I can see it every time I come. We are like old friends who know each other. I sat next to it and touched its little head. It should recognize me.

The past and present life of Moxiang Yuan can be traced back to the first year of Yongzheng of the Qing Dynasty. Yi people and Cong Shun opened the "Yixue Hall" here. In the 11th year of Qianlong, later generations built the "Wenchang Palace" here to promote cultural education. It has established three private schools, making Shuhe a famous hometown of talents.

Today, Huajiantang integrates Shuhe's unique "private school culture" into the inn, and the overall decoration style and layout are what I like. It rained that day, and the yard was exceptionally quiet. The breeze blew, making it especially suitable for sitting down, reading carefully and thinking.

Here, you can sit cross-legged on the ground, with a futon attached to an ancient book, hold the scroll and sing softly. The fragrance of books, tea, flowers and ink slowly lingers. It feels like traveling to an ancient private school, as if there is a kind of Liang Shanbo and Zhu Yingtai. The illusion of reading together.

Many fate in life are inadvertently perceived. They seem dull but meaningful. For a moment, I just wanted to live in seclusion here, ignore the world, and return to the most primitive texture of life.

Ancient City of Lijiang: Memories are like storytellers

When I first learned about Lijiang, I wanted to visit the ancient city. The long alley paved with bluestone is filled with faint fireworks from the ancient city. Occasionally, pedestrians walk by leisurely. This is the ancient city in my imagination.

Later, when I came more and more, I became accustomed to its noise and impetuousness, and I always felt that it was far from my original expectations. However, this time I came, I seemed to see it as it originally looked, simple and beautiful.

There are not many tourists in the ancient city, and the shops are only half open. This is the quietest moment I have seen it in so many years. The bar was not open yet, and those singers were sitting on the ground and singing in the streets. Seeing this scene, I was inexplicably moved.

You said that the real Lijiang is between after tourists fall asleep and before they wake up. Now, every day is its best time. The quiet and tranquil streets, the gurgling water under the small bridge, and the ancient red wall of black tiles are covered with the mottled stories of the small town. Every unweathered flow trace is a picturesque and affectionate story.

How many inns are there in the ancient city? I don't know, but the Tinghuatang Private Garden Inn I stayed at this time had an excellent view. The inn is located on Lion Mountain in the ancient city, with a central location overlooking the panoramic view of the ancient city.

Walking into the inn, I have the illusion of straying into the garden. The fragrance of flowers fills the air, and colorful flowers bloom. Such a flower-themed courtyard is like Jimei!

The entire inn consists of three adjacent courtyards, each with a different style. The butlers of the inn are very considerate and will contact you in time after booking a room. If you don't know how to get there, you will come to pick it up in person.

It has just rained, and the air in the courtyard is fresh. Remove your luggage and your fatigue, and enjoy a comfortable and quiet life here like a local person.

Flowers are the eternal theme of Tinghuatang. Different flowers bloom in every corner of the yard. Wherever the breeze passes, the flowers rise and fall with the wind, just like dancers waving their beautiful long dresses.

Being in the ocean of flowers and forgetting all troubles, the heart that yearned for beauty and freedom will be awakened. Listening to the rain and enjoying flowers, the most beautiful thing is not the rainy day, but the eaves that hide from the rain with you.

The courtyard is spacious and has a new Chinese design style. At dusk, you can also lean on the railing and watch the moon on the second floor. When I came to see it before, I was always worried about whether it would rain, but after I arrived, I felt that it would be a special artistic conception.

Many years ago, I had a dream. I wanted to have a yard of my own, plant all kinds of flowers, and invite friends to my house when the flowers bloom all over the garden, drink and chat under the flower trees, and never return home without getting drunk. Coming to Tinghuatang is like walking into my dream home. It is warm, romantic, and flowers bloom all year round. It's so good.

The hotel's rooms are very large, with a novel and fashionable overall design, which is a style that young people like. There are also comfortable bedding and spare parts. You can see the attention to detail. The staff are also on call to help solve various problems, such as pointing the way and moving luggage, all in every detail.

With the housekeeper's permission, I also climbed the roof and put on the Han clothes I brought. This roof is the Internet celebrity roof of the inn, but if you take photos, you still have to pay attention to safety.

I was a little regretful that I didn't get the sunset I wanted, but I had taken the photos I liked, and it was a complete achievement. If I come next time, I will definitely stay longer.

There are also many delicacies in the ancient city. The taste is spicy, mainly Naxi cuisine, but also Yunnan cuisine and Sichuan cuisine. And one of the restaurants I visit every time I come is the Dian-Tibet Stone Pot Banquet. Its taste is worth coming all the way here.

The restaurant is located in Chongren Lane, Qiyi Street, Ancient City. Every meal time, customers are always crowded and need to wait. Friends who know something about Medog Stone Pot Chicken will definitely not be unfamiliar with it. This is the only place in Lijiang where you can eat authentic Medog Stone Pot Chicken.

In Yunnan, residents prefer to cook in stone pots, and the stone pot of Metuo is the most famous. It can only be made locally in Metuo. The stone pot itself contains various trace elements needed by the human body and will become thinner and thinner as it is used. This pot is expensive, and the food cooked in this stone pot will naturally taste good.

The chef combines Medog's stone pot with Yunnan's traditional original ecological cuisine to stew local chicken soup, and adds precious ingredients such as bamboo fungus and truffles to ensure that you can't stop eating.

If it's the mushroom eating season, the buttered matsutake here is so delicious that you can't stop it. This store has been operating in the ancient city for many years, and the ingredients and flavors are among the best.

In addition to the stone pot chicken, there is a stone pot barbecue outside, which can roast pork belly, beef, chicken wings, etc. The waiter is very considerate and is afraid that we will not be able to roast it, so the whole service is served.

You must try the steamed bean curd and plum wine. Even people like me who don't know how to drink find this sour and sweet taste very delicious. Take a sip of a pot and the slightly smoked feeling is just right.

After eating and drinking enough, the ancient city was already lit up. When all the noise gradually faded away with the sunset, the unique temperament of the ancient city was revealed. Facing the bright moonlight, walking on the ancient stone road, blowing in the breeze, what a wonderful moment.

Baisha Ancient Town: A Village Forgotten by the World

Baisha Ancient Town at the foot of Yulong Snow Mountain is a village forgotten by the world. This simple village chief has always maintained its original appearance for many years. The earth walls are thick and tiled, and the old people on the roadside are walking proudly.

This is the origin of the regime of Lijiang's Tusi "Mu Family". It is also an ancient town with Naxi relics. It is known as the most original Naxi village. Because there are not many tourists, many foreigners live here and stay after a long time.

There is only one old commercial street in the ancient town. The small shops selling souvenirs mainly sell two kinds of things, one is tie-dye, and the other is various antique Dong. Most of the stalls are laid-back local elderly people. Because there are not many tourists, it is a little deserted.

Walking, I arrived at a tie-dyeing workshop. Various tie-dyed fabrics were dried in the open-air yard, so I went in, took a photo, and chatted with the old man in the yard.

There is no doubt that in addition to the elderly, the most people in the streets and alleys here are dogs. It seems that there is a puppy at the door of every house. They are squatting lazily on the street and are not afraid of strangers at all.

Without the commercial atmosphere of Lijiang Ancient City, it is closer to primitive than Shuhe Ancient Town. This is the simple and quiet ancient town of Baisha. Choose a courtyard with flowers and live here for a few days. You will definitely stick to it and don't want to leave.

Yuhu Village: On the road to the snowy mountains

The road from Baisha Ancient Town to Yuhu Village was the biggest surprise of this trip. This time we drove by ourselves, and the road conditions were very good all the way, and the Jeep had no problems at all.

What I am most satisfied with is its appearance. There are also many colors to choose from. For Jimei like me, who likes to take photos, it is a scenery wherever I drive. In addition, its fuel consumption is not high, power and chassis throughput are good, and the trunk space is sufficient and perfect.

I heard from a friend before that the scenery along the way from Baisha Ancient Town to Yuhu Village was good, but I didn't expect that various photography bases had been set up now. There are two relatively large photography bases along the road. If you want to take photos, you can drive directly in. If you take 30 photos per person, the photographer will also have to accept it.

The photography base here is in an excellent location, with the snowy mountains behind it, so many tourists come from other places to take wedding dresses. There are also many scenes, such as boats, swings, bathtubs, and various small cars.

My favorite is this church. It is built in water with a snowy mountain behind it. If the weather is clear, the reflection is super beautiful. Although it was cloudy when I photographed it, it snowed the day before, and the snowy mountain is super beautiful.

Chi Liu Mountain Residence: Poetic Pastoral Life

Continue driving in the direction of the snowy mountains, passing through the primitive villages and poetic countryside, and you will reach Chiliu Mountain Residence. It is hidden in the west corner of Yuhu Village, backed by the Yulong Snow Mountain Range, and the green stream runs down the mountain.

There are natural snow-capped mountains and springs and forest oxygen bars here, away from the hustle and bustle. The forest gardens in the back mountain can also lead directly to the snow-capped mountains. In your spare time, stroll around, and you will find that this place is like a peach garden, quiet and beautiful.

Through their understanding of Naxi culture, the designer preserved and repaired the original ancient buildings with Naxi characteristics. It also uses modern minimalist expression techniques to extend the original structural space, showing that "using minimalist expression makes the game complex in reality; using modernity, listens to the echo of history." cultural connotation.

The atrium of my favorite hotel, the reflecting pool and the overall building are integrated. I think: Listening to the wind, embracing mountains, and understanding water here is the ideal Zen life for modern people...

I met a gentle rain, and there was a slight coolness in the air. The flowers in the backyard are blooming and the cherries are ripe. At this moment, I just want to quietly feel the clarity and loneliness of time.

Sit in the simple and Zen tea room, sip tea, look at the mountains, nourish your heart, and have a pleasant afternoon. A roll of books, a cup of tea, and a green-dyed mood through the window, time passed by so slowly.

The hotel has only twenty rooms. The atrium is the first phase with nine rooms. I stayed in the second phase. The design style of the entire building is different from the previous one.

In different rooms, the mountain and water views you can see are different due to different angles. Here, you can not only forget the noisy traffic and the colorful lights, but also forget the arrogant smiles and the impetuous heart.

The room has a lot of space, no TV, simple enough, pure enough, and does not deliberately cater to guests 'preferences. If you can't sleep, read a book. There are prepared books, fresh fruits and mineral water in the house.

In addition to the large bed, the room also has two tatami beds. It has a full-length floor-to-ceiling design and a distant mountain is visible outside the window. The owner of the hotel wants to bring people's body and mind from the city to a more simple and natural village in a way that returns to the original.

During the quiet time in the courtyard, the old things gradually became clearer. I couldn't bear to leave after staying two days late. The breeze comes slowly, close your eyes and meditate, let your thoughts go back to the past, forget all the hustle and bustle, and return to the starting point of your soul. This is the true poetic dwelling.

Longnu Lake: Solo Dance at the Foot of Snow Mountain

Yuhu Village, at an altitude of 2900 meters, is called "Ngv lv Kee" in Naxi. "Ngv lv" is the Naxi name of the Yulong Snow Mountain, and "Kee" means the foot, which is the village closest to the Yulong Snow Mountain.

There is a plateau lake 2 kilometers away from Yuhu Village. It has a very nice name: Longnu Lake. Lying quietly at the foot of a snowy mountain all year round reveals tranquility and tranquility.

There are almost no tourists here. It is a particularly niche attraction, but there are snow-capped mountains, grasslands, lakes... This lake is called the "tears" of the Yulong Snow Mountain and the "white moonlight" in the eyes of the Naxi people.

The weather was not very good when we arrived. It had just rained. I thought I could not see the snowy mountains. Fortunately, it was not disappointing. The lake is not very wide. Standing not far away from the lake, you can have a panoramic view of the snowy mountains. The mirror-like lake water reflects the continuous peaks and clouds, making it breathtakingly beautiful.

There are local horses on the grassland. This is one of the few experience projects by the lake. The fees are not expensive. You can ride around the lake on horseback, which is quite worth experiencing.

Longnu Lake is the best place to view the Yulong Snow Mountain. When it is clear and clear, the outline of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain will be clearly reflected on the lake. When I stood in front of the snowy mountain, I took out the ballet shoes that I once wanted to wear. Although I was not a professional dancer, I still wanted to leave the most beautiful figure at the foot of the snowy mountain.

Longnu Lake is like jade inlaid in a green space, pure and flawless. Sitting by the lake, closing your eyes and feeling the breeze blowing past, I wish time would stand still at this moment.

Attachment: Practical Strategies

1. Overview of Lijiang

Lijiang is located at the junction of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau in northwest Yunnan Province. It was once a transit point for the Silk Road and the Ancient Tea Horse Road. It has a long history and has gradually become a very popular travel destination in China due to its unique cultural and natural landscape.

Many travelers think that the ancient city of Lijiang is Lijiang, but it is not. In addition to the ancient city, the Lijiang area is much larger than the ancient city of Lijiang. There are many places worth visiting here: the towering Yulong Snow Mountain, the mysterious Lugu Lake, the quiet Shuhe Ancient Town, the ancient Baisha Ancient Town, the Lashi Sea with beautiful mountains and rivers, etc.

Travel time: The scenery in Lijiang is completely different all year round. No matter when you come, you will have different feelings and gains.
February: Go to the farmland near Lashihai to see rapeseed flowers, and visit the Yulong Snow Mountain. You need to wear cotton-padded clothes on the snow mountain (available for rent)
April: When the Ancient City of Lijiang and the Yulong Snow Mountain are at their most beautiful, it is recommended to bring short-sleeved T-shirts, sweaters, jackets, sunscreen, and rain gear.
May: Watch the flowers bloom in the mountains and rivers of Lijiang, so pay attention to sun protection.
September-October: When you go to the fields of Lijiang to see the harvest scenery, it is recommended to wear a fleece coat.

Days of play: 3-5 days
Since the scenic spots in Lijiang are scattered, most tourists choose to spend 3-5 days visiting attractions such as the Ancient City of Lijiang, Shuhe Ancient Town, and Yulong Snow Mountain. If they choose to go to Lugu Lake, they will need to stay for 5 days or even more.

2. round-trip transportation

We flew from Nanjing to Kunming and rented a car from Kunming Airport. The road conditions along the road from Kunming to Lijiang are very good, and it is also convenient to rent a car. Rent a car at the airport and return it at the airport. Nowadays, renting a car is cheap, and you can also choose the car you like. If you like to take photos, Jimei people can consider Jeep like me. There are several colors and it looks excellent on camera.

3. Accommodation in Kunming

The first stop on this trip was to Kunming. Because I took a night flight and arrived at midnight, I had to stay in Kunming for one night. I chose the newly opened Feiman Hotel. The hotel is located in Wangfujing Dianchi Town, very close to Kunming Railway Station.

As an urban leisure hotel, you can feel a relaxed and comfortable living space from the lobby. The combination of self-service and semi-manual reception makes your stay more comfortable and casual.

The hotel staff were very enthusiastic and personally took me to the room. They compared the environment and the price. The current lowest room rate in this hotel is only 100+, which is really too cheap. Do you have it?

The room is my favorite style, stylish, spacious, friendly and warm. Latex pillows and mattresses are very comfortable, as well as high-quality spare parts, so you don't want to get up when you lie in bed.

If you want to buy something, the hotel has a delivery robot that can deliver it directly to your room. If you are hungry at night, you will always go out to food shops, which is quite convenient.

The hotel's restaurant not only has a delicious buffet, but also offers free refreshments. Even if you are extremely busy, you should make time to meet friends or loved ones to enjoy afternoon tea in the sun, chat, and heart-to-heart. Such moments should be cherished.

There is also an outdoor garden-style dining platform outside the restaurant, with excellent views and surrounded by green plants. Although it was just a quick night, the hotel was excellent in terms of value for money and experience, with full praise.

4. precautions

Travel during special periods

1. When traveling to Yunnan from non-key epidemic areas, the airline will present the QR code before boarding. You need to fill in a form before boarding.
2. Wear masks during the entire boarding process, and flight attendants will measure passengers 'temperatures on the plane
3.. After arriving at the airport, you need to fill in the Yunnan Health Code again and check it one-on-one before you can leave.
4. While in Yunnan, you still need to wear masks when entering and leaving public places. Hotels will also measure the body temperature of guests and disinfect guest rooms.
5. For personal epidemic prevention, remember to bring more masks, disinfectant wipes, disposable hand sanitizers, etc., and go to public places to cooperate with body temperature measurement.

Pay attention when visiting

1. Sunglasses, hats, sun umbrellas, and sun-protection clothing are all must-have when going out. The ultraviolet coefficient of the plateau is strong, unless you are not afraid of getting tan.
2. Bring an umbrella and raincoat. Because the weather is unpredictable and sometimes the weather changes suddenly, it is best to bring them in case of a rainy day.
3. If you have high altitude, remember to eat some rhodiola in advance. If you go to Yulong Snow Mountain, remember to bring an oxygen cylinder (sold locally) and thick clothes.
4. The temperature difference between morning and evening in Lijiang is still quite obvious. It is hot during the day and cold at night. You still have to prepare a coat to be careful of catching a cold.
5. The streets of the Ancient City of Lijiang and the Ancient Town of Shuhe are all stone roads. This is really torture for me with my luggage. I suggest that you not bring a trolley suitcase or find a local tricycle to send it in.
6. The local Naxi people have some customs and habits. If you go, you should pay a little attention. For example, you can't sit on the threshold of the house, you can't spit into the pond casually, you can't step on Guozhuang stones, and you can't cross other people's fire ponds.
7. Lijiang can use Alipay, and there are many WeChat stores. If you don't have cash on you, don't have to worry. The ATMs in the ancient city are concentrated near Sifang Street. I only brought a small amount of cash. I used WeChat and paid for everything else.