Shuhe ancient town

Although many people say this is an ancient town, after arriving, I prefer to treat it as a quiet village. The ancient town refers to the prosperity of traffic, noisy people, and developed commerce; while the village refers to the state of mind where there are many roads, chrysanthemums are picked in the east, and a happy state of mind.

Perhaps it was because they came too early, and the surroundings were silent. There was not even the sound of chickens and dogs barking, let alone the hurried or gentle footsteps of pedestrians. When the wind blows, the surroundings are instantly filled with the fragrance of flowers, the freshness of grass, the sweetness of dew and the fragrance of crops when they are about to mature; of course, there is also a faint special smell of rural fireworks that only exists on cattle and horses and other livestock.

Standing on the Qinglong Bridge, I felt that the sun had just given a nod, and the magnificent snowy mountain opposite me, my lost self, and the bridge under my feet were instantly painted shiny gold. The slow water under the bridge seems to be more cheerful, making a sound and flowing away, stirring the water and grass growing in the river, swaying in the crooked and giving a more pitiful and tender charm. The clear willows on the riverside are also swaying from time to time, and their shadows are spread obliquely on the water, contrasting with the grass in the water, instantly outlining the soft appearance of Jiangnan.

The stones on which the bridge deck are built are mottled, old and plain after hundreds of years of wind and rain. They cannot be found, known as the oldest and largest stone arch bridge in Lijiang Bazi, nor can they find the footprints left by the legendary immortals who stepped into the snowy mountains from here to become immortal. Instead, the extremely strong weeds growing in the gaps in the stones suddenly add a green and simple sense of security to the bridge. A vibrant vitality. The bridge is only 4.5 meters wide and 25 meters long. It now looks short and cramped, but the history written on the bridge is long and long. There are many joys and sorrows, and how many vicissitudes of life are in it. The vicissitudes of history require traveling back and forth on the bridge to carefully appreciate and understand it.

How many times did the horse gang men start the journey of the ancient tea-horse road from here? On the riverside where willows and willows were lined, on rainy and snowy days, after joining hands with their families, relatives, and lovers He Liang, they resolutely rushed to the arduous distance, leaving thousands of tears and infinite sadness to those behind them. The Yanliu Peace Bridge also remains in the minds of people traveling far away, becoming an indelible symbol and memory in their hometown. I don't know whether the stone bridge that Xu Xiake walked over three times in one step was Qinglong Bridge, but he did record that "crossing a dry river stone bridge, looking west towards the middle sea, dark willows and waves, and there are large settlements on it. It is Shihe Courtyard". It is said that Shihe is now Shuhe. Perhaps Xu Xiake did not understand the local dialect at the beginning. Naxi originally called Shuhe "Shaowu", and "Shaowu" means "village under the peak", and "Ten Harmony" is originally incompatible with each other.

Walking westward along the river, there are rows of houses on both sides of the bank. Some have been converted into shops. The owners of the shops have named poetic names such as "One Meter of Sunshine","Flowers Blooming at That Time" and "Hide" according to their dreams and pursuits, and have intentionally or unintentionally planted various flowers, plants, green trees, and decorated the small courtyards with colorful colors; Some are still houses of local residents, retaining the structural layout of three squares and one illuminated wall. Looking inside from the high or low courtyard walls, they are also full of vitality and romance. However, the sign "Private house, no visit, do not disturb" is hung at the door, which will make the tourists who stumble here and stop feel slightly disappointed. They wonder what kind of clouds and wind will be hidden in this not-deep courtyard in front of them. Lightness, love, hate and hatred? Some people may even hope that it would be best to plant a towering apricot tree in each such courtyard. When spring comes back, you can see the spring color of the courtyard blooming on the courtyard wall with a blooming apricot flower.

At the end of the road is the Nine Pinnacles Dragon Pool formed by a vast pool of water. The water in the pool is clear and clear, but it is filled with a green light. When the wind blows, it shines and layers upon layers, like dark green and thick silk that cannot be melted suddenly unfolding in a flat and narrow manner, and every inch of wrinkles changes into different colors. If you are lucky, you will be able to see the reflection of the snowy mountain from here. It is clear and straight, and has a profound artistic conception. The local people also artfully call it the "Snow Mountain Reflection", giving you endless thoughts and considerations. There are many fish swimming in the pool, and they are never afraid of people. They even like the arrival of people. Even if there is the slightest sound of footsteps, they will float up with their heads and tails, gathering densely. The text on the side of the pond said that Qianlong's "Lijiang Prefecture Annals" recorded that Jiuding Longtan is "ten miles west of the city, with clear water and countless swimming fish, covering a width of ten acres. The rocks are beautiful and the forests are deep. It is said that in the past, people wanted to net the fish, but thunder and hail suddenly hit, and no one dares to this day." So there are more and more fish in the pond now, and they are more and more harmonious with people.

At the entrance of a covered bridge next to the pool, a temple building with a courtyard layout is hidden. The inscription on the lintel has the words "Three Holy Palace", which is simple and beautiful. It is said that Mudong, a Tusi in the Ming Dynasty, was built during the Longqing period and rebuilt in the 1980s. It houses Guanyin Bodhisattva, Dragon King and Sun Bin respectively. In addition, it faces a pool of blue waves of Longquan Lake, hence the name Longquan Three Holy Palace. The most famous thing here is that the main hall holds murals from the Ming Dynasty. What makes people think most is why three sages, Guanyin Bodhisattva, Dragon King and Sun Bin, are enshrined at the same time?

Perhaps the worship of Bodhisattva Guanyin was because the people of Naxi at that time believed in Tibetan Buddhism and prayed for her to have great mercy and mercy to save people in need; the worship of the Dragon King was due to the hope that the Dragon King could bring good weather and good weather to the unfertile land here, and the worship of Sun Bin should be related to his ancestor, who was known among the people as a cobbler. It is said that at that time, due to the development of commerce brought about by the ancient tea-horse road, Yunnan in the southwest border also had a demand for various leather goods. The Mushi Tusi hired a group of Jiangnan craftsmen to settle in Shuhe to produce leather shoes, leather goods, hemp thread, ironware, bamboo ware, etc. Soon Shuhe became the famous "hometown of cobblers" in the junction of Yunnan, Sichuan and Tibet. The footsteps of the Shuhe craftsmen traveled through the ancient tea-horse road with the sound of camel bells of the horse gang. Every corner.

Sun Bin, the ancestor of the cobbler, was also worshipped here, enjoying the continuous incense of the whole year. Nowadays, there are very few tourists here, even though from the second floor of Dajue Palace here, you can overlook the dense forests, rippling blue waves, green fields, and curling smoke from the kitchen not far away; Although many people say that when there is a moon, you can see the mysterious artistic conception of green waters and white egrets, boundless clouds of clouds, and dense osmanthus, and even raise the emotion and sigh of "the moon is like water and water as sky" and "the scenery is vaguely like last year."

On the land not far away from Longtan, local residents planted a few frames of beans, several beds of rapeseed, and two scattered rows of corn grains. Because the rapeseed flowers were still in full bloom, the rural pastoral songs and pastoral scenery were actually full of clearly displayed. There is a dilapidated stele lying across the pool. The age is untestable. It probably records the cultural anecdotes and scenery here. Not far away from the inscription, there is a place called "Three Eyes Well". The first well is spring water, which is sweet and used to be the drinking water of the Naxi people. The water flows down, and then there is the second well, which is used to wash vegetables. The third well is used to wash clothes. The three wells follow the shape, connecting from top to bottom, reflecting the Naxi people's wisdom of saving water.

Nowadays, no one comes here to drink water, wash vegetables, or wash clothes. The water gurgles into the river and gathers in the pool. Next to the riverside pool, some local people gathered, their cheeks were covered with wrinkles and their faces had the unique plateau red here. They were motionless and languidly in a daze, as if frozen in this gentle time and space, slowly flowing with the water. Soak into the world that belongs only to you. Only those bright and clear eyes flashed with unbridled calmness, allowing the ups and downs of the world around me to settle into the calm and comfortable waves in front of you.

On both sides of the river, many new bars and tea houses have been opened. As night falls, half of the colors and stories of Shuhe are handed over to them. As the sun gradually passes away, the hazy lights gradually increase, and the east and west sides echo each other, one after another, like fireflies, scattered in every corner where there are people and no one. Songs of one kind and another will float in the bar. The voices of the singers are soft or rough or hoarse or sweet. The content of the songs includes the romance of love, the curl of nostalgia, the sadness of wanderers, and the melancholy of life. As you listen, your heart suddenly calms down and becomes clear, and you begin to imagine that you can stay here for more days and enjoy more tranquil time.

The exterior walls of some bars are densely covered with such things as "Haze is in the north, north and west, happiness is in Lijiang","I want to grow old with you accidentally","When I was a child, happiness was a simple thing; when I grew up, simplicity was a happy thing", etc., or witty or humorous graffiti, let people even understand some truth in an instant, let go of their past persistence, and feel that life should be like this, plain and calm... It's late at night, so go back and rest. There are several inns with transparent glass curtain walls on the roofs of the second floor. Lying on that wide, soft and comfortable bed, you can see the deep blue night sky full of diamond-blue stars. If there is a wind blowing at this time, the Dongba Wish Wind Chimes hanging in the inn will sing in due time, Ding Dong, let you fall asleep sweetly.

They are all places where the Naxi people lived earlier. They all enjoy the shelter of the snowy mountains and the longing of tourists, but their hearts are only immersed in Shuhe and cannot extricate themselves. You have to ask why, dear, let me tell you: here, during the day, there are far fewer people than Dayan, and a little more people than Baisha. There is the smell of fireworks but no dust; at night, without Dayan, the lights are bright and the voices are full of people, and with the lights that Baisha does not have are beginning to shine. What's more here is the sound of wind and running water. It's the comfort of slowing down time and calming down people's hearts. That sound, that comfort, can slowly and bit by bit infiltrate into the deepest part of your heart and touch your original The hardest or softest place.

There is less the wild and wanderness of the lights, and more a touch of calmness and calmness that makes people concentrate. This is the case in Shuhe Ancient Town. Whether you come or not, it is still unimpressed by the clouds and clouds, impartially, neither humble nor arrogant at the foot of the snowy mountains, and stays in the mind of everyone who has been here.

In Shuhe Ancient Town, finding a restaurant with a very good environment, having a delicious meal, and enjoying it quietly is really a great enjoyment in life. This time I was fortunate enough to find Shuhe, the most popular, best reputation, and best taste. Having a meal at the restaurant is really a spiritual and material enjoyment. This is the gourmet restaurant frequented by Lijiang celebrities. As long as celebrities come to Lijiang, they basically have to come here to have a delicious meal. So friends who are visiting Lijiang must go to this restaurant for a delicious meal. Don't miss it!

Fuxian Small Pot Rice·Yunnan Folk Style Restaurant (Shuhe Ancient Town Store)

Fuxian Small Pot Rice·Yunnan Folk Style Restaurant (Shuhe Ancient Town Store)

Fuxian Small Pot Rice·Yunnan Folk Style Restaurant (Shuhe Ancient Town Store)

Fuxian Small Pot Rice·Yunnan Folk Style Restaurant (Shuhe Ancient Town Store)