Zhejiang Tourism: Third visit to Xikou Ancient Town in Fenghua (Photo)
UP ChinaTravel
2024-07-25 12:50:22
0Times

I first learned about Xikou Ancient Town in Fenghua, Zhejiang Province from film documentaries. Because it is Chiang Kai-shek's hometown, I was deeply impressed. However, I never expected that in the three years from 2005 to 2007, the reporter would visit here three times, so the beautiful mountains and rivers here left a deep and unforgettable impression.

Xikou Ancient Town, Fenghua, hurried for the first time

On May 16, 2005, the reporter took time to come here due to a business trip to Fenghua. Due to limited time, it was destined to be a hurried trip to Xikou Ancient Town. I have long heard that this is a good place with beautiful mountains and rivers. Xikou Scenic Area, which mainly consists of Xuedou Mountain, Xikou Ancient Town and Tingxia Lake, has more than 50 scenic spots.

Scenery of Xikou Ancient Town (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

As a national-level scenic spot, Xikou should be 1/19th of the country, as a hometown of celebrities, it should be 1/102/102 of the country, and as a Buddhist resort, it should be 1/5 of the country. The natural landscape, cultural landscape and Buddhist dojo are so closely integrated, so harmonious and so perfect that it cannot be said that Xikou is unique in the country or even in the world, and it should be the only one. However, if I really have the opportunity to come at this time, I can only regrettably be a passer-by in Xikou Ancient Town.

Publicity board (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Not far from entering the ancient town of Xikou, you will find a huge promotional page reading "Xikou People Welcome You" at the foot of the mountain surrounded by distant mountains, which makes tourists who come to Xikou for sightseeing for the first time feel a little warm. Xikou Ancient Town Scenic Area is centered on the built-up area of the town. It starts from Hushan Bridge in the east, Cuiping Mountain in the west, Baiyan Mountain in the north, and Nanshan Mountain in the south. A vein of Yan River runs through the east and west. In the "Xuedou Temple Annals" of the Qing Dynasty, predecessors described it as follows: "The mountains are surrounded by green trees, the streams are clear and cultivated, and the folk houses are like a paradise."

The archway of Jiang's mother's tomb (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The ancient town of Xikou has a history of more than a thousand years. As early as the Han Dynasty, some scholars and poets called it "Penglai on the Sea"; during the Eastern Jin Dynasty, Wang Xizhi lived in seclusion here; during the Republic of China and modern times, Xikou was even more famous for two generations of famous people named Jiang and his son. The reporter's previous understanding of Xikou was limited to the fact that it was Chiang Kai-shek's hometown and Chiang Kai-shek's biological mother's cemetery, so he went straight to the tomb of Chiang's mother in two hours to visit it.

Stone Path (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Judging from the map of Xikou Town, the location of Jiang's mother's tomb should be in the central and northern parts of the town. So I drove in the general direction and quickly arrived here under the guidance of clear road signs on the street of Xikou. Because it has just rained, the sky has not cleared up yet. Walking into the stone archway at the entrance of the "Jiang Mother's Tomb Road", a long stone path winds up the mountain. On both sides are the towering fish scale ao pine forests of Xicui Ping Mountain. The air is extremely fresh. The sound of birds chirping came from time to time in my ears.

Exit the sedan booth (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The tomb path of Chiang Kai-shek's biological mother, Wang Caiyu, is 668 meters long. Climbing up the steps from the stone path in the mountains, you have to pass three gates on the way. The middle gate is 3.7 meters wide, and the left and right gates are 2.1 meters wide. There are also Xiazanting, Bajiao Pavilion, and the tomb hut known as "Ci 'an". I heard from the tour guide that in addition to the "Ci 'an", the octagonal pavilion and the gate building at the entrance of the tomb road were all built later.

Bajiao Pavilion (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Ci 'an was built in early 1923, and in 1930 it was converted into three bungalows with yellow walls and blue tiles. There are 5 main houses. Entering the main door, there are 4 stone inscriptions displayed in the middle aisle. In the center is Sun Yat-sen's "Sacrifice to Chiang's Mother", and on the back is "The Story of the First Mother Wang and Madam" written by Chiang Kai-shek himself. On the left and right walls are inlaid with Chiang Kai-shek's "Crying Mother","Commending to the Commander-in-Chief" by the Executive Committee of the Kuomintang Central Committee. The left bedroom suite was the place where Chiang Kai-shek and Soong Meiling often lived when they returned to their hometown. The two rooms in the right room are guest rooms, and the one behind is a memorial hall. It was destroyed in early 1967 and is now turned into a flower bed. The one next to it is a kitchen and manager's house.

Ci 'an (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

When we are about to arrive at the corner of the mountain road at Jiang's mother's tomb, we will see a round pool surrounded by green bamboo. This is also an integral part of the cemetery landscape. I heard from the tour guide that when Chiang Kai-shek built these two pools next to the cemetery on the mountainside, it reflected the meaning of "no rules, no circle."

Memorial Hall for Mother Jiang (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The tomb of Jiang's mother sits in the south and north above Ci 'an, surrounded by stone canisters and capped with loess. The tomb surface is spliced with "horizontal and seven-connected" stones, and the middle stone tablet is written by Dr. Sun Yat-sen on the upper end of the "Tomb of Mother Jiang". The words "pot model and foot style" are engraved with stone lions on both sides facing each other. On the left and right columns, there is a couplet written by Chiang Kai-shek:"It is too late to regret the misfortune of the virtuous and benevolent people that day; I am ashamed to be a rebellious son, and I will hate it forever." The "Phoenix Green Bamboo" embossed stone slab is embedded in the center of the worship platform.

Entrance of Jiang's Mother Cemetery (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

On the way down the mountain from Jiang's mother's tomb, I saw a sign near the Bajiao Pavilion pointing to another mountain path paved with stone slabs. After taking a picture of the entrance of a scenic spot, he hurried down the mountain. I wanted to visit the former residence of the Jiang family again, but because the several locations were scattered, I only drove to the famous Sanli Street, Wuling Road, in the ancient town. This is a landmark landscape that integrates water surface, market, commerce and culture, condenses the history and culture of Xikou in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China, and displays the style of the ancient town. On the left side of the street is close to Yuxi River, and on the right side of the street are more than 10 relics of the Chiang family. They are all white walls and black tiles, with shops in front and back squares in the early period of the people's past.

Tomb of Wang Caiyu (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

In the eyes of reporters, the beautiful Yanxi River is a beautiful scenery in Xikou Ancient Town. Scattered small boats are cruising on the narrow water, and the long Xinan Bridge connects the north and south sides of the Yan River. Overlooking the lush mountains, it looks like an ink painting with a charming Jiangnan town scenery. The short trip to the ancient town of Xikou left a deep impression on the reporter. If you have the opportunity to come to Fenghua again, you must have a good tour of Xikou.

Second trip to Xikou Ancient Town in Fenghua

Perhaps it was due to fate with Fenghua, Zhejiang Province. On June 19, 2005, one month after the first hurried trip to Xikou Ancient Town in Fenghua, I had the opportunity to come here again. In order to make up for the regret of the short trip to Xikou last time, after arriving at Ningbo Lishe Airport at noon, we discussed with the comrades who came to pick up the plane: Anyway, the interview activity to Fenghua would not take place until the next morning, so if we could take advantage of the free time in the afternoon of that day. Go to Xikou. Comrade Ma Ying from the reception unit said that as long as the reporters do not feel tired and are in a hurry to return to the hotel in Fenghua to rest first, they have no objections. So, our car drove straight from Ningbo Airport to Xikou Ancient Town, which is more than 40 kilometers away.

Xikou Xinan Bridge (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Since the Xikou Scenic Area is mainly composed of three parts: Xuedou Mountain, Xikou Town, and Tingxia Lake, the last time the reporter came to Xikou due to time constraints, he only visited the tomb of Jiang's mother and the bank of the Yan River. Therefore, this time he went directly to Xuedou Mountain. Coincidentally, the driver, Xiao Wang, happened to be a native of Xikou, and he volunteered to serve as our tour guide. Our car entered Xikou Town in about an hour. The car passed through the ancient town from the east and headed northwest. It passed the familiar archway of Jiang's mother's tomb and began to follow the winding mountain highway.

Xuedou Mountain Scenic Area Monument (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The mountain road is winding, the mountains are stacked with green, and beautiful scenery is passed by from time to time outside the car window. Soon, the car arrived at the gate of Xuedou Mountain Scenic Area. Xuedou Mountain Scenic Area is the highest peak in the branch of Siming Mountain, with an altitude of 800 meters and is known as the "First Mountain in Siming". There is a rufeng on the mountain, and there is a sinus on the breast peak. Water flows out from the sinus and is as white as milk. Therefore, the spring is named Ruquan, and the sinus is named Xuedou. This is why the mountain is named. Near Xuedou Mountain, there are Qianzhang Rock, Sanyintan Waterfall, Miaogaotai, Shangshanggang, Linhai and other landscapes.

Miao Gaotai Villa (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

After entering the scenic spot, Xiao Wang first took us to Miaotaotai. Miao Gaotai is located about 500 meters west of Feixue Pavilion, also known as Miao Peak and Tianzhu Peak. The altitude is 396 meters. There is a platform on top, known as a wonderful platform, about 350 square meters. There are cliffs on the east, west and south sides, and clouds and clouds converge in all directions, like a fairyland. The clouds and clouds have just opened, looking around from the railing, the cool wind is facing you, the pine waves fill your ears, the mountains are close to the mountains and far away, and the demeanor is myriad; among the peaks under the stage, the pavilions and the lakes are inlaid with sparkling lights, giving you a unique style. On Miaotaotai is a villa that combines Chinese and Western styles built by Chiang Kai-shek in 1930. There is one bungalow on each side of the gate with a flat-topped balcony. There are three two-story buildings behind the patio. The upstairs cement corridor is connected to the balcony, and the middle door is equipped with a black plaque on a white background. The three words "Miao Gaotai" were written by Chiang Kai-shek. There are 3 bungalows behind it, with walls connected into one, with a total construction area of 436 square meters. There are two pavilions in different forms on the rocks on the right side. It was destroyed in 1968 and rebuilt with state funding in 1987.

Miao Gaotai Pavilion (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Lou Yao's poem "Miao Gao Feng" in the Song Dynasty: "A peak is higher than the white clouds, overlooking the thousands of mountains in the southeast. Try to turn round stones towards the top of the hill, and I don't know when it will come to the world." In the early Qing Dynasty, Qiyun Temple was built at the north end of Miaaotai. In 1726 (the fourth year of Yongzheng), the stupa of Zen Master Shi Qi was built.

A corner of Miaogaotai (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Standing on the wonderful platform and looking down the mountain, the beautiful scenery of the Tingxia Lake can be vividly remembered. Tingxia Lake is a man-made mountain lake and is known as the "Famous Pearl of Eastern Zhejiang". The lake surface is 5.9 square kilometers and the water storage capacity is 153 million cubic meters, equivalent to seven West Lakes in Hangzhou. The lake rock line is 42 kilometers long. The lake area is lush and deep. There are three islands and several peninsulas in the lake.

Lakes and mountains (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

It is said that as early as the 1940s, Chiang Kai-shek had the idea of building an artificial lake in the area around Tanshibi River at Xikou, but it failed due to the turbulent current situation and various wars. After the founding of the People's Republic of China, the Water Resources Department of Zhejiang Province conducted many on-site surveys based on the planning of the Fenghua River Basin. After various arguments, the site was finally selected for Baqu Bailongtan in Puxi. Construction started in January 1978 and completed in September 1985. It cost a total of 50 million yuan to build the current Tingxia Lake. Looking at the pavilion and the lake on the Miaotai platform, the blue waves ripple, and the lake water shines brightly under the reflection of the sun. The whole lake is surrounded by mountains, like a beautiful picture of lakes and mountains.

Miao Gaotai sees Xuedou Mountain (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

According to the "Xuedou Temple Annals" of the Qing Dynasty, there is Fuhu Cave on the left of Miaotai Platform, Xiaofan Platform on the right, and Yanzuo Platform in front of it, all of which are relics of Zen Master Zhihe, an eminent monk of the Song Dynasty. It is said that he sits on the stage at Yan at the fifth watch every day and does his homework. The two tigers in the Fugu Cave listen to his chanting scriptures, and their wildness gradually recedes. In 1125 (the seventh year of Xuanhe of Song Dynasty), the story has been passed down to this day.

Portrait of General Zhang Xueliang (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Coming down from Xuedou Mountain, we came to the place where General Zhang Xueliang was placed under house arrest after the Xi'an Incident-the exhibition room of "General Zhang Xueliang in Xikou". This is a bungalow courtyard located on the hillside on the west side of Xuedou Temple. From January to September 1937, General Zhang Xueliang was imprisoned here by Chiang Kai-shek. In 1988, the state opened it as a memorial hall to the public. After entering the courtyard door, a statue of General Zhang Xueliang in military uniform among the flowers was particularly eye-catching. In the archway in the courtyard is an exhibition room, which displays many precious historical materials and pictures, from which tourists can clearly understand an unforgettable history.

Go to Qianzhang Rock (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Continuing down from Zhang Xueliang's exhibition room, you will reach another famous scenic spot in Xuedou Mountain, Qianzhang Rock Waterfall. After entering the gate of the scenic area with the plaque of "Qianzhang Rock" in front of it and the "Dongzhe No. 1 Waterfall" behind it, climb the mountain along the stone road in the shade and come to the best platform to view the landscape of Qianzhang Rock Waterfall. There is a Flying Snow Pavilion here, and outside the pavilion is a long and narrow viewing point surrounded by a stone guardrail. Outside the parapet wall are cliffs. Standing here and looking around, the stream of Qianzhangyan Waterfall flows down, which is spectacular.

Qianzhang Rock Flying Snow Pavilion (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

According to historical data, Qianzhangyan Waterfall is also known as Xuedou Flying Waterfall. The water from its milk spring flows into Jinjing Pool, passes through Guanshan Bridge, and pours down in Qianzhangyan, from the top of the rock to the deep pool, reaching a height of 186 meters. Half of the wall is separated by huge rocks. Every spring and summer, it rains heavily and flows straight down. Half of the wall is hit by huge rocks, shattering the streams and rocks and flying snow. Under the sun, a long arc will appear, making it a spectacle. Xuedou Waterfall was famous nationwide as early as the Northern Song Dynasty. Wang Anshi has a poem on viewing waterfalls, which specifically describes her beauty: "Thousands of peaks stand on the ground, and thousands of feet are suspended in the sky. Let's watch the jade maiden hanging in silk, reflecting the sun and turning into five-color text." On the south side of Feixue Pavilion, there stands a statue of Wang Anshi, a great literary hero of the Song Dynasty. The rock next to the statue is engraved with his immortal masterpiece-Waterfall Observation Poetry.

Waterfall landscape (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

It was a pity that we couldn't visit Chiang's former residence during our first trip to the ancient town of Xikou, but this time we finally got our wish. Xiao Wang's acquaintances came down from Xuedou Mountain and took us to Wuling Gate. The first time I came here was just a car ride on Wuling Road, but this time I can finally walk along Sanli Chang Street. After entering the Wuling Gate Tower, you will enter Sanli Chang Street.

Wuling Gate (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Wuling Gate is located at the pass of Wushan Mountain, occupying the main entrance and exit road and serving as the gateway to the town. In 1929, Chiang Kai-shek demolished the old Wuling Nunnery, dug low mountains, and widened the roads. Its civil works were antique towers, with flying eaves and towering hillsides. The words "Wuling" are inscribed on both sides of the building. The east is written by Yu Youren and the west is written by Chiang Kai-shek. Climbing the tower, you will look east to the new industrial area and west to the market, with endless scenery. Standing in front of Wuling Gate, I saw the traffic here, and tricycles were pulling sightseeing tourists inside and out.

Chiang Kai-shek's calligraphy (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Pass through Wuling Gate to Wuling Road. To the south is the Leting on the bank of the Wuxi River. It's crowded with tourists. I heard from Xiao Wang that the number of tourists to Xikou has increased day by day in recent years. Since this is Chiang Kai-shek's hometown, some people dress up as Chiang Kai-shek and take photos with the tourists who come here. As they were talking, a fake Chiang Kai-shek standing at the entrance of Leting entered the reporter's sight. It was already early summer, and wearing a black gown was eye-catching among many people wearing summer clothes. Coupled with his bald head and crutch on his hand, he immediately attracted the attention of many tourists. Although his head was covered with sweat, he still waved to the tourists from time to time.

Chiang Kai-shek dressed up (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

On the north side of Wuling Road, in addition to buildings such as Jiang's former residence, many shops selling specialties of the ancient town have been built. Here, Xikou Ancient Town in Fenghua has all the famous local traditional specialties such as thousand-layer cakes, peaches, dried sheep-tail bamboo shoots, and taro. In particular, the thousand-layer cake with crispy taste, clear aroma, sweet and salty taste is the most popular food among foreign tourists. These shops mainly deal in local products, so they are always crowded with customers.

Shops on Wuling Road (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

From the east to the west of Wuling Road, we first arrived at the "Fenghao House", the former residence of Chiang Kai-shek and Chiang Ching-kuo. It is located on the western section of Wuling Road, facing north and facing south and facing the street. The signboard of "National Key Cultural Relics Protection Units" with white ground and gold characters outside the door is very eye-catching.

Fenghao House, former residence of Jiang's family (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

"Fenghao House" is the house number, and its house is called "Suju". There are 3 old-fashioned buildings, with 7 rooms and 2 lanes in the front building and the second building. They were used by Qinxiao District Primary School from 1925 to 1928, and were changed to Wuling School in 1929. There are three rooms in the back building, and the middle hall is in front of the new three-room building. In 1935, Chiang Kai-shek expanded the Fenghao House and replaced it with the foundation to build another building, retaining the old house in the front building, and demolishing the rest.

Suju Gate Tower (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

After the completion of the new houses, the number will increase to 49, covering an area of 4800 square meters and a building area of 1850 square meters. The overall layout includes the front and back halls, the hatchback corridors, the floors and pavilions are connected, and the corridors and rooms are looped around. 3 rooms in the front office building. Upstairs is the Mao family's chanting place; downstairs, the middle corridor is lined with accounts and reception rooms on both sides. There are three high-roofed bungalows in the back hall. The middle "Baoben Hall" is a place to worship ancestors and worship heaven. The west wing is the Mao family's house, and the east wing is the residence. The small building east of Baobentang is the residence of servants, and the western bungalow is used to receive relatives and friends.

Residence of the Guards (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

There are two independent small buildings to the west of the west wing, and the upstairs corridor is connected to the west wing. There are houses in the courtyard with carved beams and painted buildings, and colorful sculptures in the middle of the roof such as "Three Stars Gaze" and "Double Dragons Seize Beads". The embossed pictures of "King Wen Seeking Talents","Dragon and Phoenix Comes to Prosperity","Loyalty to Serve the Country" and other pictures.

Bao Bentang (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The plaque of "Baobentang" was written by Wu Jingheng, and the couplets on both sides of the column "Paying for the deity is the most virtuous road, and the filial son and virtuous grandson of the past and the future" are the handwriting of Chiang Kai-shek. A plaque with gold characters on a red background hangs in front of the hall, with the inscription "Reasonable Handsome", which was written by Chiang Kai-shek in 1949 for his eldest son Ching-kuo's 40th birthday. After May 1949, Fenghao House was properly protected by the People's Government and allocated funds for maintenance in 1980. An old house collapsed in the 1950s, and its site is now turned into a flower bed.

Corner of the courtyard of Fenghao House (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Not far west from Fenghao House is another Yutai Salt Shop in Jiang's former residence. Chiang Kai-shek was born here on the 15th day of the ninth month of the lunar calendar in 1887 (the 13th year of the Qing Dynasty). The original site of Yutai Yanpu is located at Dianjiang Lane, in the middle section of Wuling Road. It was opened in 1871 (the tenth year of Tongzhi of the Qing Dynasty) by Jiang Yubiao. There are 3 storefronts, a workshop in the back, and home furnishing upstairs. At the beginning, it sold salt and brewed wine, and later sold rice, vegetable cakes, lime and groceries. In 1888, the salt shop caught fire and burned down. Around 1919, Jiang Jieqing went out to plan things and closed his business. In 1921, he was reinstated again and later rebuilt. In 1948, termite erosion was rebuilt into a Shiku Wall Gate Courtyard. Chiang Kai-shek wrote "The original site of Yutai Salt Shop", and Le Shi placed it at the foot of the west head wall.

Chiang Kai-shek's birth room (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The last thing I came to was the famous Wenchang Pavilion. In order to provide convenience to tourists, the tourism management department of Xikou Ancient Town has now connected Wenchang Pavilion, small bungalows, Wuling Gate Tower, Xikou Museum, etc. into a tourist route. Tourists can visit the tours in sequence no matter where they enter. If you enter the scenic spot from the Xikou Museum outside the Wuling Gate, tourists visit the museum and climb the Wuling Gate. After passing through the gate tower, they will reach the small bungalows and Wenchang Pavilion, and finally come down from the top of the Wuling Gate. The reporter did the opposite. He first climbed Wushan on the bank of the Yan River and entered Wenchang Pavilion.

Wenchang Pavilion, Xikou Ancient Town (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Wenchang Pavilion is located on the top of Tandun Mountain at the southern end of Wushan Mountain. Ancient trees hang in the shade around them, and the green pool next to the stream is like a mirror. It was built in 1773 (the ninth year of Yongzheng of the Qing Dynasty). It was a small scale. It was the place where literati and scholars from the Wenchang Society, the Wenwu Society, and the Jinxi Book Qi Society gathered to pay homage to Emperor Wenchang. In 1924, Chiang Kai-shek returned to his hometown from Guangdong to visit the tomb. Seeing that the tower was about to tilt, he asked Jiang Jieqing to take charge of the reconstruction, which was completed the following year.

Looking at Yunxi from Wenchang Pavilion (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Wenchang Pavilion was destroyed by Japanese invaders aircraft in 1939. In 1986, the state allocated nearly 300,000 yuan to build the construction by Dongyang County Wood Carving Factory. It was completed in January of the following year, regaining its original appearance. Climb the pavilion and look around through the window. You can see the green mountains from afar and the smoke city from below. The scenery is charming. There are Diaoyutai, Qishui Bridge, and Wuling Pool nearby."Fish Watching in Bitan" is one of the ten scenic spots at Xikou in the Qing Dynasty. Jiang Tingxiu, a native of the Qing Dynasty, wrote: "The water in the Bitan pool flows brightly, and the gold carp fills my eyes. Why do you have spiritual swamps in Xiqi and follow the rules of Pu and Zao to treat people?"

Small bungalow (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Wenchang Pavilion has a building of 500 square meters. Stone blocks are built on platforms, blue brick walls are built on, cornices are raised at corners, and beams are carved with figures and birds. The corridor is decorated with flowered windows, and mahogany palace lanterns are hung on the top of the pavilion. On the day of its completion, Chiang Kai-shek named it "Le Ting" and wrote "Le Ting Ji" to describe his victory. He often lived here when he returned to his hometown. However, Xikou people still call it Wenchang Pavilion, and call the two-story square pavilion on the northeast side Le Pavilion.

Reporter Xikou took a photo (Photo: Wu Ying)

Down dozens of steps from Wenchang Pavilion is a small bungalow known as Qianxi Xiaozhu. Its original name was "Hanqi", commonly known as a small bungalow, and was built in 1930. Located on the east side of Wenchang Pavilion, the north mountain faces water, a Western-style three-bay flat-topped building, a roof balcony, and cement railings of the Western Zhou Dynasty, allowing you to enjoy the shade and enjoy the moon. Outside the west gate, there is an open-air corridor leading to Wenchang Pavilion.

Watching Leting upstairs (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Many Kuomintang officials have lived in the small bungalow. After the Xi'an Incident, Chen Bulei lived here and wrote "Half Moon Notes in Xi'an". In April of the following year, after Jiang Ching-kuo returned to his hometown from the Soviet Union, he lived here with Jiang Fangliang and his eldest son, Ellen (Xiaowen). They studied Chinese to "cultivate their cultivation and cultivate their hearts." After that, Jiang Ching-kuo returned to Xikou and lived here. In December 1939, Chiang Ching-kuo mourned the death of his biological mother Mao Fumei. He wrote "Wash the Blood with Blood" and carved a stone tablet on one side. The original place where he died was located is now moved downstairs.

Corner of a small house (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Climb Wuling Gate from Xiaoyanglou and pass through the gate to Xikou Museum. Xikou Museum is located at the southern foot of Wushan Mountain. It was originally the ancestral temple of Jiang, Zhang, Ren, Song and Shan. Because of the victory of Wushan, it is named Wushan Temple. There is no way to verify the date of its construction. In 1790 (the fifty-fifth year of Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty), funds were raised to repair it. In March 1986, the state allocated 190,000 yuan for the renovation and was completed in October of the following year. The temple house has a complete structure, divided into front and back buildings, east and west corridors, a stage in the middle patio, and a Panlong stone pillars in the rear front corridor, retaining the architectural style of the Jiangnan temple before the middle of the Qing Dynasty. The current name was changed on February 17, 1988 (the first day of the first lunar month). Officially open to the outside world.

Xikou Museum (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The museum is divided into three rooms. One room displays unearthed cultural relics, including Neolithic stone plows, stone axes, stone knives, stone spears, Western Zhou printed hard pottery, Eastern Han celadon cans, etc.; the second room displays folk handicrafts, including boat drums used to conduct bands at the Games to meet the gods, sedan chairs and thousands of workers 'beds, etc.; The three rooms include modern handicrafts, bamboo carvings, mosaic furniture, bamboo root carvings and bamboo weaving products.

Grand stage (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The reporter basically visited the main scenic spots in Xikou Ancient Town in Fenghua. Although I didn't go directly to the Tingxia Lake Scenic Area, I had a full view of the beautiful scenery of Tingxia Lake from the Miao Gaotai Platform of Xuedou Mountain. Therefore, there are no regrets left behind on this trip, only that the beautiful experiences will always be left deep in my memory.

Three trips to Xikou Ancient Town in Fenghua

On December 22, 2007, the reporter visited Xikou Ancient Town in Fenghua for the third time. Although I have been here twice, I feel different each time. Perhaps the first two trips were purely free and solo, but this time they followed the regular sightseeing route arranged by the travel agency. Therefore, the third trip to Xikou three years later gave reporters a deeper understanding of the ancient town's style.

Sanli Street Shipai Square (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

If you think about it carefully, it is the travel route arranged by the travel agency, which is comprehensive and orderly. In addition to the two scenic spots of General Zhang Xueliang's Xikou Detention Place and the Xikou Museum under renovation, this trip to Xikou basically included all the scenic spots that visited the previous two times. It seems that this is definitely one of the best sightseeing routes in Xikou Ancient Town. The route for this trip is: in the morning, drive up the mountain to Miaotaotai, and then walk down the mountain from the scenic area to Qianzhang Rock; after coming out of Qianzhang Rock, take a bus to Jiang's mother's tomb; in the afternoon, enter from Wuling Gate and follow Wuling Street along the bank of the Yan River, visit Wenchang Pavilion, Xiaoyanglou, Chiang's former residence Fenghao House and Yutai Salt Shop in turn.

Wuling Road, Sanlichang Street (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Xikou is named after the water of the Wuxi River. At the source of Yuxi River, the mainstream comes from Shanjieling, and from Xinchang to Fenghua, it is called "Shanyuan". The scenery along the river is beautiful, and the Jiuqu of Shanyuan is an ancient tourist attraction. The current Xikou Ancient Town Scenic Area is centered on the built-up area of the town. It starts from Hushan Bridge in the east, Yuciping Mountain in the west, Baiyan Mountain in the north, and Nanshan Mountain in the south. A vein of Yan River runs through the east and west.

Ruquan Pavilion (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The bus I took drove between the winding mountain roads and soon arrived at the gate of Xuedou Mountain Scenic Area. Not far from the gate of the scenic area is the Miao Gaotai. During the Republic of China, Chiang Kai-shek appeared in Xikou, and many people came here because of his fame. His villa Miaogaotai on Xuedou Mountain in Xikou has now become one of the important tourist attractions in Xikou.

Scenery of Xuedou Mountain (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

This is the second time that a reporter has stepped onto the Miaowai Platform. Miaotaotai is surrounded by pine, camphor and green bamboos. The rocks and rocks at its feet are strange and colorful. There is a flat on the summit like a platform, about 13 meters from east to west, and twice as large as north and south. In front of it are cliffs, high on three sides, and facing the abyss below. Climb the top of the snow sinus and look down. I can only see the platform and not see the peak. Looking up from the foot of the mountain, I can see that the mountain peak is not seen, which is one of the most beautiful scenery of Xuedou Mountain. Looking into the distance from the fence here, you will be facing you with the cool wind, pine waves filling your ears, close to the mountains and far away from the hills, and you will have a myriad of manners. Especially when you look at the scenery of the lake under the pavilion on the Miaotang platform, you can only see the ripples of the blue waves. The lake water shines brightly under the reflection of the sun. The whole lake is surrounded by mountains, like a beautiful picture of lakes and mountains.

Statue of Wang Anshi (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

I visited Chiang Kai-shek's villa on the Miaotai platform and came to the platform outside the gate of the villa. There was a protruding rock on the platform on the right. It was square and smooth, allowing one person to sit down. It was called the "County Sitting Stone". Walking down the mountain and walking through the forest from here, you can reach Qianzhang Rock in about ten minutes. I remember when I came to Xikou for the second time in June 2005, after visiting Miaotaotai, I returned along the original road. After exiting the gate of the scenic area, I drove down the mountain for a while to the gate of Qianzhangyan Scenic Area. I didn't expect that I could also walk from within the scenic area. And it's all downhill, so you can enjoy the scenery without getting tired. It's really nice. You can have a panoramic view of the waterfall when viewing Qianzhang Rock from Feixue Pavilion. The Qianzhangyan Waterfall, known as the "No. 1 Waterfall in East Zhejiang", is famous in Jiangnan for its magnificent appearance. The waterfall has a drop of 128 meters. The water from the east and west streams gathers in Jinjingchi through the Guanshan Bridge to the cliff mouth. It flows angrily into the sky until half of the wall collides with a protruding boulder, scattering like flying snow, dividing the waterfall into two folds. The upper layer is like five dragons soaring into the sky, and the lower layer is like a bead curtain hanging on the ground. Shined by the sun, a seven-colored rainbow appears, which is unique among the many natural waterfalls in various places, and the viewer is astonished.

Photo taken at the entrance of the Second Tour (Photo: Sun Minghe)

After coming out of Qianzhang Rock, there was an open water in front of you. It is said that this was built in the eleventh year of Chunxi of the Song Dynasty (1184 AD) when Zhijian, the abbot of Xuedou Temple, dug a pond and built an embankment here for half a year. "The pool is one inch deep (8 feet), four hundred and thirty feet long, and half wide." A bridge and gate were built on it to control the waterfall at Ganzhangyan. Zhang Liangchen, a poet of the Southern Song Dynasty, called it the "Jinjing Pool". Across the road through the cobblestone flood bridge is Xuedou Temple.

Cobblestone Flood Bridge (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Xuedou Temple is the center of Xuedou Mountain Scenic Area. It has a long history and is famous at home and abroad. According to the Records of Xuedou Temple, during the Jin Dynasty, there was a Buddhist service on the top of Nijielu Mountain, named Waterfall Courtyard. This site was rebuilt in the year of Huichang of the Tang Dynasty (841 AD). In the late years of Dazhong (859 AD), it was destroyed by Xifu. It was rebuilt in the third year of Xiantong (867 AD) and renamed "Waterfall Guanyin Temple". During the Ningzong period of the Southern Song Dynasty, the temples in the world were rated, and Xuedou Temple was "one of the ten Zen temples in the world."

Xuedou Temple Gate (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

It was destroyed twice in the 25th year of the Yuan Dynasty and the late years of the Ming Dynasty, and was rebuilt during the Shunzhi period of the Qing Dynasty. During the Cultural Revolution, Xuedou Temple was once again destroyed. In April 1986, with the approval of the People's Government of Zhejiang Province, reconstruction started again. The rebuilt Daxiong Hall is 23.7 meters high, 380.7 meters wide, and 29.3 meters deep. It is erected on large wooden frames and supplemented by bricks and tiles, making it magnificent. On October 21, 1988, Zhao Puchu, then president of the Buddhist Association of China, visited the temple and suggested building Xuedou Temple into a unique Maitreya Dojo. As a result, Xuedou Temple has become one of the important attractions in Xikou Scenic Area.

Shiban Path (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The former residence of Jiang's family-Jiang's mother's tomb is the last stop of the morning itinerary. Walking into the stone archway at the entrance of the "Jiang Mother's Tomb Road", you will still see a long stone path winding up the mountain, with the towering fish scale ao pine forest of Xicui Ping Mountain on both sides. During the last round trip, I only knew that the tomb was 668 meters long. Sun Minghe, a teacher from the China Machinery Industry Audit Society who was traveling with him this time, counted carefully and found that there were 456 steps in the stone path between the mountains of Jiang's mother's tomb.

Towering pine forest (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

After lunch, enter the ancient town of Wuling Gate and start sightseeing along the beautiful Yan River. Still entering Sanli Street in Xikou Town from Wuling Gate. It is said that before 1929, it was still a small nunnery, with a tea pavilion next to it for people to rest. In 1929, Chiang Kai-shek transformed it into a three-room, two-room gate-style gate building here. The reason why he named this place "Wuling" was because Chiang Kai-shek wanted to show respect for his predecessors. Because, firstly, Chiang Kai-shek admired martial arts; secondly,"Wuling" was the homophonic of "Wuling" in Tao Yuanming's "Peach Blossom Spring".

Fang Yuan Chi (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

After entering Wuling Gate, I visited Wenchang Pavilion and small bungalows. From here to Fenghao House, this road integrates water, market, commerce and culture. It condenses the history and culture of Xikou in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China and displays the iconic style of the ancient town. Three years have passed on on Sanli Chang Street with the landscape, and it looks both familiar and cordial. Along the way is still the beautiful Qixi River, which is a beautiful scenery of Xikou Ancient Town. Scattered small boats are cruising on the narrow water, and the long Xinan Bridge connects the north and south sides of the Yan River. Overlooking the lush mountains, it looks like an ink painting with a charming Jiangnan town scenery.

At the foot of Wushan Mountain in Xikou (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Traveling westward on Shunwuling Road, we visited the "Fenghao House", the former residence of Chiang Kai-shek and Chiang Ching-kuo, and the Yutai Salt Shop where Chiang Kai-shek was born. Visiting the old place again is nothing more than a deepening of the impression. However, the simple and characteristic commercial streets in the ancient town on Wuling Road are still so lively after a few years. They are located row upon row on the north bank of the Qixi River, forming a scenic line in the ancient town. Sanyou Xikou Ancient Town still feels very good. Maybe this is the unique charm of Fenghua Xikou Scenic Area...(Photo: Feng Ganyong)


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