November 2013--Kunshan, Suzhou
UP ChinaTravel
2024-07-14 20:51:56
0Times

In the blink of an eye, November arrived, and the autumn wind became cold. If there is no long holiday, I will use weekends to go around the surroundings. There is heaven above and Suzhou below. I will target Suzhou. I will meet Miss Ling and hit it off. Renting a car and driving for a short distance is also casual and leisurely.

We set off early in the morning. Although there was an incident about refueling the car replacement, everything went smoothly. The first stop was Miss Ling booked for breakfast at Kunshan Aozao Hall. The highway was not too congested. There was only a queue at the toll gate for a while and I arrived in Kunshan before the noon rush hour. Kunshan is no stranger to most Shanghainese. The Aozao Restaurant is located at Banshan Bridge, the south gate of Kunshan Tinglin (Gu Yanwu Tinglin) Park. It is the longest traditional noodle restaurant in Kunshan. It is said that the former boss had bad eyes and the noodles he made were a little unclean, so it was jokingly called "Zaohao Noodles" by regular eaters.

bad is a Kunshan dialect, which means not very clean. Unexpectedly, this strange name actually made it spread like wildfire. The noodles are Su-style noodles. The soup is fresh and the noodles are delicious. If you can directly order the four-poured noodles, the shop is crowded with people. It is a small satisfaction to eat well.

After eating and driving, we will go straight to Suzhou for dozens of kilometers. With the help of a navigator, we will go to Huqiu first. Miss Ling and her secretary both came to Huqiu when they were children, and their memories have been a little forgotten. In the last century, Shanghainese made the absolute first choice whether they took children on a family trip or celebrated their ancestors in Suzhou during the Qingming Festival. This time I came to Huqiu to see the Huqiu Pagoda and review the sword-testing stone that I still vaguely remember. Tiger Hill is not big. Before entering the scenic area, the nearby roadside was already surrounded by wedding dress shops. This is a famous wedding dress street. It is said that King Helu of Wu was accidentally injured during the battle with Li in the State of Yue and died soon after. King Fu Chai of Wu was buried here. Three days after the burial, a white tiger sat on it, so it was named "Tiger Hill". Passing through the archway of the "No. 1 Scenic Spot in Wuzhong", the Tiger Hill Pagoda is in front of you. Crossing the small river at the entrance, you can enter the scenic spot.

It is said that the mountain here is only 36 meters high. When entering the scenic spot, there are free tour guides, and Jiangnan's services are still in place. Walking along the way, I vaguely have some impressions of my childhood, Hanhan Well, Sword Test Stone. It's quite comfortable to have a look and listen. The Sword Pond in front of the Thousand People's Stone is mysterious. It is said that there are 3,000 swords at the bottom of the pool. Climb up the stairs and walk up the Shuangjing Bridge. Looking at the Sword Pond under the bridge through the double wells on the bridge, I feel a little afraid of heights. Walking through the Shuangjing Bridge, you will reach the core of the Tiger Hill Pagoda. The Tiger Hill Pagoda is actually called the Yunyan Temple Pagoda. It feels a bit dilapidated. It is a seven-story brick pagoda with an octagonal imitation wood structure. It is the only existing multi-storey building in Jiangnan built in the Five Dynasties. Because half of the tower base was on the sand and half on the rock at that time, the axis of the tower now slopes north by east. It is said that the tower has tilted northeast before it was built and has stood for thousands of years. It is called China's "Leaning Tower of Pisa". Standing under the tower, you feel that the tower's slope is quite huge. The ancient tower exudes charm that is unmatched by modern architecture.

Tiger Hill is not big. Take photos, take a look at the ancient tower, and visit here.

After leaving Tiger Hill, I drove straight to Humble Administrator's Garden. Miss Ling said that she had never been here before. Now it is a world heritage site. Miss Ling must come and have a look. The secretary, I have only come to see this place from primary school. In the center of the city, parking is extremely complicated. Fortunately, everything goes smoothly into Humble Administrator's Garden. Tickets are 50 yuan in off-season and free tour guide services are available. Humble Administrator's Garden was built in the fourth year of Zhengde in the Ming Dynasty. It is one of the four famous gardens in China. It was originally the residence of Tang Dynasty poet Lu Guimeng. During the Yuan Dynasty, it was Dahong Temple. During the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty, censor Wang Xianchen returned to Suzhou after failing in his career and bought it. He hired Wen Zhengming to participate in the design of the blueprint. It took 16 years to complete the park. Shortly after its completion, Wang Xianchen died. His son lost the entire garden to Xu in a night of gambling, who was the owner of the garden at that time

。The current Humble Administrator's Garden covers an area of 70 acres. By the end of the Qing Dynasty, it formed three relatively independent small gardens in the east, middle and west. As we walked, we listened to the tour guide's sister's explanations. We passed through the gardens, making it small and elegant. Suzhou Beisi Tower can be seen by the lake. The government's protection of the ancient city of Suzhou prohibits the construction of buildings three stories higher than the Beisi Tower, which makes the entire city of Suzhou very comfortable. The entire garden feels that the original Ming Dynasty design in the east is more charming, but the Qing Dynasty design seems to be slightly inferior. Walking through the complex corridor and looking at the rockery and pool in the garden, it is difficult to describe this kind of Jiangnan garden in words. My feeling is that the simple courtyard is complicated. No road is straight, no window has the same pattern, and the height is scattered., full of fun, but it does not seem complicated and messy. Read it all in one circle. Miss Ling wondered why there was no area for the owner to live in. The tour guide's sister said,"This is the garden area. The living areas have been divided into the current Suzhou Museum and Taipingzhong Palace." It is estimated that the original appearance is no longer there. Fortunately, the most amazing thing here is the gardens. Even emperors far away in the north like the gardens here. There are many replicas of Jiangnan gardens in the Imperial City.

After leaving the Humble Administrator's Garden, you will reach the Suzhou Museum 200 meters away. There are no highlights on the exhibits here, but the museum itself is quite impressive. It was designed by I.M. Pei. It is said that I.M. Pei is a native of Suzhou. As a prominent family in Suzhou, he lived in Lion Grove when he was a child. For some time, as an architectural designer who works as a cow in the world, it can be regarded as a reward for his hometown! Of course, it must complement each other with the garden designed by Wen Zhengming, and it is estimated that only Lao Bei will design it.

The Suzhou Museum still has the feeling of Suzhou with white walls and black tiles. It is a good combination of modern elements and classical gardens. The interior space and lighting are reasonable and comfortable. As a layman, I can only watch the excitement. After leaving the museum and passing through Wang Zhong's Mansion, I completed my visit to Humble Administrator's Garden.

Driving through the entire urban area of Suzhou was an extremely painful experience. There are many rivers in Suzhou, and there are very few roads that can run through the city. Coupled with the protection of the government, there are basically no wide roads. We can only follow the navigation and slowly drive to the hotel. Staying at Nanyuan Hotel is because I have taken a fancy to the only Suzhou garden that I can stay in. It is getting late and I will visit the hotel tomorrow. I will park the car and set off to have dinner at Songhe Tower. The eunuchs kept busy and found that there was actually a rich tycoon who bought the Songhe Tower. They had to go to the Deyue Tower opposite. The Deyue Tower with a small facade became famous because of a small Deyue Tower movie in the last century. Taking a number and queuing up, you can still receive individual guests in the context of the second team's wedding banquet and the first team's birthday banquet. After not much waiting, you have a place. The interior is so big that it makes people feel lost. Squirrel mandarin fish, shredded eel in oily oil, and jujube cake are all the best. If you can't finish it, pack it, take away all the fish heads. That mandarin fish sauce is really delicious, slightly sour and sweet, and not greasy.

The only regret is that the waiters are basically foreigners, and the diners are also foreigners. They have not heard the soft Suzhou dialect. They are all Shanghainese and Mandarin everywhere. The only way to go out after eating well is to listen to two urban management officers speaking soft Wu Nong language on Guanqian Street.

There was no talk all night. I got up early the next day, ate the hotel's breakfast and started to visit Nanyuan Hotel directly. Let's first look at Jiang Weiguo's former residence. It is a three-story building that is elegant and can still be moved in. There is only one room on the top floor, which is estimated to be expensive. Next to the building is the site of Lin Biao's Project 571, which is smaller than the 704 in Hangzhou, but the situation is similar. Take a walk and take a look. Through the underground passage, the tunnel directly connects to the vicinity of the swimming pool.

Not far from Secret Road 571 is Mingxuan. This is known as the Little Net Master Garden. The courtyard is very small, and it still has rockery, small lake, and corridor pavilions. It is also a typical Suzhou garden. A banquet can be set up in the lakeside pavilion. It is said that many officials have been here. The banquet here has the reputation of "the first banquet in Wuzhong customs". After leaving Mingxuan, I took a walk and took a look at the scenery of the hotel. Not far away is Shanqing Zen Temple. I took a casual look at the small Zen Temple and completed my visit to the hotel.

The hotel gave us two tickets to Hanshan Temple, so we went to have a look! The journey wasn't really blocked. Miss Ling and I have both been to Hanshan Temple. It's no longer famous as a historic site. As long as it's Zhang Ji's Maple Bridge moored at night, this is really a powerful advertisement! Coupled with the Japanese's admiration for this place, it has become a Japanese world every New Year's Day. The quota for ringing the clock has been reserved by the Japanese for a long time, and the locals cannot hit the clock at all. Standing on the stone bridge in front of the courtyard, feel the artistic conception of the Maple Bridge in Zhang Ji's ancient poem, walk through the shadow wall of Hanshan Temple, and enter the temple. The incense is strong. For five yuan, I climb the bell tower and ring the bell three times to pray for peace.

Hanshan Temple is not big, and the buildings are basically renovated in a modern way. Miss Ling, who has enough time, feeds the fish and takes a look at the Buddha worshiping believers. Look at the Tai Lake Stone of Guanyin Peak, go through the back door and return to the parking lot, pick up the car and go straight to the Lingering Garden not far away.

The Lingering Garden is smaller than the Humble Administrator's Garden and is not as famous as the Humble Administrator's Garden. There are many fewer tourists. I didn't catch the free tour guide every half an hour, so I rented an electronic tour guide and started visiting. First of all, this tour guide is very advanced, and there are corresponding images showing that the children in Suzhou gardens are exquisite, which causes the tour guide to basically play non-stop, making it extremely easy to use. Although the Lingering Garden is not as famous as the Humble Administrator's Garden, it is actually as famous as the Humble Administrator's Garden. It was a key cultural relic protection unit in 1961, one of the four famous gardens in the country, and a world heritage site. The only difference may be that it is said that the Lingering Garden is built in imitation of Humble Administrator's Garden, but both places are quite profound. There are also few tourists here, and there is no longer the hustle and bustle of Humble Administrator's Garden. Miss Ling spends a lot of time in the pavilions and rockery in the Lingering Garden. It has the largest living room in the south of the Yangtze River, huge Taihu Lake stones, and various masters like marble. Everything is delicate and exquisite. The location of each pavilion in the yard is to see different scenery in different seasons. It is absolutely graceful.

As we walked, we tasted the artistic conception of the garden owner. As the last stop in Suzhou this time, the Lingering Garden is still worth a visit. Perhaps it is because of the meticulous viewing. Miss Ling prefers the Lingering Garden to the Humble Administrator's Garden. When she left the house, the service staff seemed to still be stronger. The area here is only half the size of the Humble Administrator's Garden.

After leaving Suzhou, I headed straight for another focus this time-Yangcheng Lake Lotus Island. Shanghai people have a special liking for hairy crabs. They used to go to Bacheng more, but Bacheng was too commercial and it was more original. This time, I was preparing to get into contact with Yangcheng Lake at a distance. Due to the peak season, Miss Ling and I had to eat crabs at the wrong peak. We made an appointment for dinner at 2 p.m., and under the guidance of the boss and GPS, we successfully arrived at the dock to Lianhua Island. Although Lianhua Island has roads, cars cannot get on, and neither can locals. We can only take a shuttle bus or boat. Due to the congestion of buses on weekends, the shuttle bus was not normal, so the boss sent a boat to pick us up, avoiding the hard work of detour around the North Pier and waiting for the bus. The time is not the time to eat. The speedboat is just the two of us. The captain of the boat is driving the boat across the Yangcheng Lake. It is surrounded by the purse seine on the lake. It is probably full of crabs. The lake is bright and water, and this is the first time I have visited Yangcheng Lake in this way. The boat owner also said that in the past, the residents on the island were poor and could only grow watermelons and cabbage. Now they have started to raise crabs and become rich, and their lives are beginning to be moderately prosperous. Not long after, they arrived on the shore, with native eggs, white water fish, and fresh vegetables. Of course, two large crabs per person were indispensable. They ate like they were intoxicated, and Miss Ling was satisfied. From the afternoon when the sun was warm and eating in the courtyard to the sunset when the table was moved into the house to avoid the wind, it was a satisfying afternoon, an afternoon of overeating.

I left Lotus Island under the sunset of Yangcheng Lake, bid farewell to the boatman, and drove home. The small traffic jam on the highway did not affect the overall situation. I returned to the city in the night. This is what a weekend leisure trip should be like.


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