[ The Other Eye ]

outside

I prefer to look outside my comfort zone,

I have been making food reviews,

There is no way to have the fear of "eating spicy food",

It took me half a month to learn to appreciate spicy food.

Privately thinking about the unprecedented development speed of Chinese food in recent years,

It is also related to the "going global" of chefs and catering investors.

After reading it, come back,

If you just study,

It is not difficult for modern kitchen technology and talents.

Let the original taste and culture develop more,

I think it is difficult.

The Shanghai list is basically unchanged from last year.

But I think I can be more Chinese!

To be honest, from Gao Xing's perspective, there are no surprises in today's list. UV's Michelin stars are as stable as Mount Tai. The two have been upgraded. DA Vittorio Shanghai is a branch of the old Italian national treasure restaurant in Asia. Polarxuan is exquisite Cantonese cuisine and shines with the light of Bulgari. It is reasonable for these two to be upgraded again. It is completely in line with Western aesthetics.

If there is a highlight. Four new little kings have been added to one star: Yu Bund, Yidao, No. 3 Huangpu Club, and Renhe Hall. Yu Bund is Southern Fujian cuisine. The owner Wu Rong is a genius in catering and business with both creativity and courage. Chef Chen Zhiping is born in the 1990s and this time he also won an additional "Young Chef Award". This is one of the two awards added by Michelin this time, the other "Michelin Service Award" was won by Chef Wang Zhenxiang of Jipinxuan. It is worth mentioning that Tian Ke, the boss of Yidao, has made this year's dishes grow by leaps and bounds in terms of taste and appearance. It is inseparable from his master, Huaiyang Cuisine Master Hou Xinqing.

2021 Shanghai Michelin Complete List

Michelin-starred restaurant

Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet

Michelin two-star restaurant

Canton 8 (Runan Street)

Imperial Treasure Fine Chinese Cuisine (Huangpu)

Ji Pin Court

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon

8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana

8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana Chef riccardo la perna

Taian Table

Taian Table Chef Stefan Stiller

Xin Rong Ji (Nanyang Road) Xin Rong Ji (Nanyang Road)

YongFoo Élite

Baolixuan Bao Li Xuan

Da Vittorio

Michelin one-star restaurant

Amazing Chinese Cuisine (Changning)

Jingxihui Chef Du Jianqing

Cheng Long Hang (Huangpu)

Da Dong (Xuhui) Da Dong (Xuhui)

Da Dong Sea Cucumber Store (Jing 'an) Da Dong (Jingan)

Fu He Hui

ll Ristorante - Niko Romito

Jade Mansion

Jean Georges

Jin Xuan Jin Xuan

Lao Zheng Xing (Huangpu)

Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire

Nanlu·Zheli (Huangpu) Le Patio La Famille (Huangpu)

Liyuan (Pudong New District) Lei Garden (Pudong)

Li Garden (Xuhui) Lei Garden (Xuhui)

Maison Lameloise

Mingge Ming Court

Luyuan (Changning) Moose (Changning)

Luyuan (Pudong New District) Moose (Pudong)

Phénix

Jiaquan Qifu (Jing 'an) Seventh Son (Jingan)

Shanghai Shang-High Cuisine

Sir Elly's

Tangge T'ang Court

Xin Rong Ji (West Nanjing Road)

Yi Long Court

Yongfu Yong Fu

Yong Yi Ting

Yu Zhi Lan

No. 3 Huangpu Conference Canton Table

Meet The Bund

Renhe Hall (Zhaojiabang Road) Ren He Guan (Zhaojiabang Road)

Tea Culture (East Beijing Road)

Recommended by Biedon

Aniang Noodle Restaurant A Niang Mian

Da Hu Chun (Middle Sichuan Road)

Wenxing Restaurant Four Seasons

Gong De Lin (Jingan)

Hai Jin Zi (Jinxian Road)

Howard Johnson Restaurant Hao Sheng

Jesse

Lan Ting

Lan Xin (Jinxian Road)

Lu Bo Lang

Mao Long

Mi Thai (Anfu Road)

Nanxiang Steamed Bun (City God Temple)

Polux

Rong Xiaoguan (Huangpu) Rong Cuisine (Huangpu)

Rongshu Noodle Soup with Yellow Croaker

Tianduoli Tandoor(closed)

Zhengdou Congee Noodle Expert (Pudong New District) Tasty Congee Noodle Wantun Shop (Pudong)

Yangzhou Fan Dian (Huangpu)

Ye Olde Station (Xuhui)

Yong Fu Mini

Judging from the leadership of Michelin's overall Chinese food, Xinrong Ji's Taizhou cuisine and Da Dong's innovative Chinese cuisine are still big winners. In addition, they must be Huaiyang cuisine, Chaozhou cuisine, Sichuan cuisine, local cuisine, Ningbo cuisine and high-end vegetarian cuisine. But if you look closely, Michelin is a "one-star" that is "one-stop".

Of course, on this list, there are also many famous chefs in the cooking industry who are dissatisfied with the excellence of Yongfu, Jingxihui and Fuhehui in 2020. Famous chef Shuai Xiaojian said that this is just like Chinese people look at black people, they are all the same.

Fortunately, there are many Chinese restaurants around us that are doing different things, and they insist on using the Chinese people's "harmony but difference" approach.

Making Chinese food expensive is a matter of common use.

Let's start with the spicy taste!

Most Sichuanese will agree that most of the delicious food in Chengdu restaurants are "fly restaurants." Therefore, it is inherently unacceptable for Chengdu people to make dishes worth 2000 yuan per capita. For the Michelin list, appreciating the "local Chinese flavor" also requires a process.

Just like me, before I ate so much Sichuan cuisine, I didn't know that "I didn't understand spicy food at all."

I'm sure it's fate. Last month,"A God's Table" went to Sichuan and Chongqing with the Honggongguan singer team. I also "forced" my taste back during that half a month, so that I could finally appreciate it cognitively!

I went to the Chengdu store of the only Sichuan cuisine "Yuzhilan" in China that made the Michelin list, and Yuzhilan also won a one-star spot on the Shanghai list this year. This shop in Chengdu is managed by the founder, Master Lan Guijun. He said that "using soup to cook, the more expensive it becomes."

Chinese people emphasize the tone of opera singing-the chef's soup, and every restaurant and everyone say this. "Remember to turn off the music. There are not many who sing well." Master Lan said.

Master Lan Guijun (left), director of Yu Zhilan

Yuzhilan is our first stop in Chengdu. The one who came to make a pilgrimage is the home of Chengdu's flavor. Master Lan Guijun has been working for so long that he believes that the core of Chengdu cuisine is tolerance. People from other places usually think it's just "spicy", but Yuzhilan can enjoy the changes of mountains and rivers here.

"One-third of the best and most complete Sichuan cuisine is spicy and two-thirds is not spicy. Spicy is people looking for fun, spicy is art, and hemp is feeling. Overthrow the front and understand it with your insights. The authenticity of food comes first. When cooking soup, it is displayed with national thoughts. The flavors that local people like are the last and are presented one by one." I never went to a spicy area, but when I went to a spicy area, not only did I feel bad about food, but I also felt bad about it. I was born in Jiangnan. The main flavor is seafood and light meat. The original flavor is light. When I arrived here in Sichuan, I couldn't accept the "spicy expectations", but Yuzhilan's different structure and reconciliation methods allowed me to see a completely different "spicy universe".

Home-made jam and ice powder·sweet potato cake

Eating desserts first before meals is the bottom line. Eat peanuts first and serve with sweet potato cakes. The strawberry sauce and chili noodles are all made by Master Lan himself.

Master Lan is also very helpless about the "national psychological price" of Sichuan cuisine: "It's the same for us to go abroad to eat Michelin. If we find that we don't eat it, we can change friends to continue eating and pay the money. In the process of buying materials, if you have a good reputation, others will give you good things, and the best will be given to you. This is your reputation. We don't negotiate the price, and we will give you good things if you can get the starting price."

The beauty of the two sections of eels must be contrasted with the essence and original juice of the two eels when it comes to Master Lan Guijun. I agree with what Master Lan said. Nowadays, there are many chefs, but few are real chefs, because Chinese cooking is mostly about hard work that diners can't see, but the "way" of taste can be clearly eaten. I was secretly lucky that I could get top-notch food after my first meal of hot and sour noodles in Chengdu.

Master Lan will personally explain every dish in detail: "The cold dishes in front serve three functions: serving wine, appetizing, and visiting the table. The appetizer should have a rich flavor. Walking around is the role of clowns after the circus."

Master Lan is accustomed to using the philosophy of making music to explain cooking.

Making soup is the most difficult part in Chinese food, and fixing the ingredients based on each ethnic group's value for food. The master said,"In Japanese cuisine, there are a few fish and beef. Europeans pay attention to three major ingredients. The Chinese are the most complex, such as mountain eight treasures, sea eight treasures, etc. There are differences between the north and the south. It is just the respect for it by the nation. It represents the local flavor. It is the chef's balanced use of life's flavor. It is made according to the concept during the cooking process. Add one thing blindly, mix one thing blindly, steam one thing blindly, subtract one thing blindly, and return to nature."

"During the appetizer process of cold dishes, there are three flavors in the world: natural flavor, fermented flavor (cheese, red wine, white wine, ham, sausage, etc.), and blended flavor. The three flavors are reflected according to the food. Cold dishes are harmonious taste, the harmonious taste is greater than the fermented taste, and the fermented taste is greater than the natural taste. Step by step, cold dishes are followed by hot dishes. Cold dishes are a prelude to the symphony. Simply add a variety of forms, go up step by step, go down step by step, and return to nature."

Appetizers: (Fish every year)

Original pickled pepper chicken feet, roasted green pepper mixed with preserved eggs, natural flavor, cashew nut crisp in sauce, beef tendon pork in red soup

In 1983, Master Lan learned the most traditional Sichuan cuisine at the Cooking and Catering Technical School, and the exam came first, theory and practice came first, and he learned tradition at school. At the age of 27, he had his own thoughts and Jianghu. "When I was 40 years old, I realized that something was wrong. Sichuan cuisine is an art, hemp is a feeling, and there are many kinds of spicy food. Progress is being made every day. No one else can see it, but only you know it in your heart. It was overthrown four years later by Yuzhilan. Our cuisine changed based on our understanding of food, our understanding of one's own day, and our understanding of taste. You can't stand drinking malatang when you get up in the morning, but it's different at noon. Cooking according to your feelings is the soul."

The cold dishes in front of Master Lan are different from European style. He said that we cannot change our national habits. Delicious cold dishes, but even more delicious is the Sichuan flavor blended with five flavors. "What I am studying now is the authenticity of food, the Romance of the Three Kingdoms talks about human nature, and Journey to the West talks about team management. Tang Priest is the wisdom of tolerance. We must learn to tolerance, understanding, calm and serious in the process of cooking. First of all, you must have wisdom, and then you must understand. What is understanding, when you straighten it out, you must understand. On the contrary, you must be serious and not be disturbed by the outside world during the serious process. This is calm. What you decide must move forward. What others say is not important. The key is the person who does the work. Just like when you shoot, your soul is very important."

Fried dried bamboo shoots with red oil, rice pepper fungus, and tea tree mushroom

Master Lan asked me to eat some cold dishes, starting with light ones. "Preserved eggs are the intangible cultural heritage of Sichuan. It is good to eat preserved eggs after clearing your mouth. The three small dishes in the middle are together, called promotion step by step. It takes two people to advance together."

NOMA's chief chef (the world's number one in the industry) has also been to Yu Zhilan. Master Lan said that only by having the language of his peers in the world, using the world language to speak the Chinese flavor, and using the philosophy of life to explain it can he understand it. "The richest flavor in the world is Sichuan. Sichuan is an immigrant city. It tolerates and accepts it, and it has its own style. Spicy, sweet and sour, this is an idiom that is colorful and describes your life."

Lobster Pepper Colorful Noodles (Weird Sauce)

"Lobster colorful noodles cannot be spicy. There is cold dishes in front. If you eat sesame, you won't be able to eat it for half an hour. Serve this dish and mix well. The colorful noodles are all made of fruits and vegetables. You don't use essential pigments. You can eat it with a strange sauce and mix it well. It's a harmonious taste." The lobster next to it is sweet, sour, salty and slightly spicy. It is made of shrimp soup and has a strong taste. The vinegar is Zhenjiang balsamic vinegar. I tasted the taste of fruit, which was very delicious.

"85% of the people who come to eat vegetables here are people who call the wind and rain. They ask the master to make it as simple as possible, without adding it, and the dishes will be loaded naturally. We have a gentle breeze and a gentle rain. They don't need to dress up, they don't like it. They like nature because they have seen everything, and the trunk is all world-famous products. You will only know if you eat it in your mouth. This is called desktop marketing, not sales promotion. Make the connotation well and come when the other party has important guests."

Passing through: A unique thing in western Sichuan-truffle Cordyceps·golden silk noodles (high-quality clear soup pure handmade noodles)

"After arriving at cold dishes, we will have hot dishes. There is a prelude to the symphony in front of us. After that, you can have golden silk noodles." Master Lan said that you have to clear your mouth twice, because the front is a harmonious taste and the taste is completely covered. The first thing we ate was soup with the natural taste of food. What comes up is Sichuan's famous boiled water clear soup. The truffle on it is from Panzhihua, the Cordyceps is from Nagqu in Xizang, and the cabbage is from snowy mountains. "You can't eat cabbage in Chengdu. Sichuan is a alpine basin and the weather is too hot." Master Lan added.

You must clear your mouth and smell the fragrance. Use green tea to clear your mouth. You must also pay attention to eating noodles. You can't drink alcohol first and then eat noodles. Only after you have no foreign flavor in your mouth can you feel countless things. Master Lan taught me to smell the aroma and drink some soup first to vent my breath. The soup is gargled with scallops, which is very fresh. The most traditional way is to have a little sour taste on the mouth.

Boiled cabbage clear soup is the best soup in Sichuan, and it has the thickness of soup during drinking. "The authenticity of the food is the main thing. Stewed chicken soup is not delicious if it has too much salt. I only use very little salt. The best salinity is between 0.1 and 0.2."

Dujiangyan Sturgeon Cake Sauce (Large Portion) Shrimp Jelly Cream (Original)

The next dish is shrimp jelly, caviar is the flavor of fermentation, and shrimp jelly is the flavor of nature. This dish comes from Huaiyang cuisine. Sichuan is an immigrant place, so it was integrated into it. "Huaiyang cuisine is called shrimp spicy soup, and it is frozen with pork feet, so this is formed. It takes 5 hours to make this shrimp jelly cream. The first day it is made, put it in the refrigerator at 0-4 degrees Celsius. Slowly, if the temperature is too low, it will not work. So there is a taste of sea urchin during eating. Eat shrimp jelly first, and then put caviar in. The caviar is made from Dujiangyan. If one were to say that the ones from Iran and Russia would be extremely salty. There is also an order of eating. You have to eat sweet beans and caviar first."

Yuzhilan's dishes do not use any flavor pigments. The cake below is the famous hollow cake in Sichuan. It used to be made with lard, but now many people don't like to eat it. Master Lan makes it with olive oil and you will feel the natural sweetness of sweet beans and the fragrance of caviar.

"Salty and sweet mouth is to find salty mouth in sweet mouth, not sweet mouth." I agree with Master Lan that the taste of food lies in its sweetness. Shrimp jelly cream is the best in this season. It is sweet and salty, not salty and sweet. But Master Lan said that you can't use sweet shrimp because it's too sweet, and the last thing you eat is to clear your mouth.

The tableware was designed by Master Lan based on his own dishes in Jingdezhen. In 2007, he quit his job as catering director, closed his hotel, and went to Jingdezhen to study ceramics. This plate is like a Chinese desk painting, purely handmade and inlaid. In-glaze color is glazed and then fired under high pressure, spraying glaze first and then painting.

The next wild flower glue stew came up, and I gave it to me with a "wow-" sound. I asked Master Lan why the utensils were designed this way, and he said: "The highest marketing is to attract attention. If you have already spoken out, then the marketing is successful. This is for thermal insulation. It is Ming Dynasty thermal insulation tableware, not the foreign kind. Because it is difficult to keep warm in winter here, there is no floor heating, and the feet are cold. This is from China and exported to Japan. The earliest ones in the home were made of earthen pottery and iron. Why do you need a screen on the table? Everything can be settled. High-ranking officials and dignitaries should eat in a manner. The seats in my restaurant are a bit high, and you can eat well if you lower your head slightly."

Stewed wild flower gum with fresh matsutake

Master Lan said that flower gum should be original and stewed in water, which is easy to burn. This is wild flower gum stewed with matsutake and made with good chicken soup. But don't suppress the taste of matsutake in the chicken soup. Drink the soup first, and then eat the fish maw and soup together.

The hat on the container was added by Master Lan and is fully glazed. Master Lan said that Shanghai Yuzhilan spent 1.3 million tableware on 20 tables, and more than 600,000 yuan in 2007. You can buy an apartment in central Chengdu City. But tableware has not been out of date for 10 years, but storage is very troublesome.

Pan-fried morels and beef

"The best morels in the world are at the junction of Sichuan and Gansu. They are disinfected with ozone first and then high temperature." Green pepper powder was sprinkled on the plate. I smelled the aroma of fungi, beef and pepper, which was refreshing. The various flavors were not suppressing each other, but balanced. On the other side is soybean flour and peanut flour. Master Lan said not to add spicy food at the beginning. Add peppers, the sweetness of the aroma will be different.

"There is a lot of thinking about making seasoning with this thing. The morels cannot be covered by Hemu, and Hemu cannot crush the morels. The porcini mushrooms were fake when they went in. They were all robbed. In the end, they smelled a little like pepper. This is Sichuan food. You can't choose Chinese beef because the mutton smell is relatively strong. You can only choose naked eyes and western cold meat. The most authentic one is Zanthoxylum bungeanum. The real Sichuan cuisine is actually not peppers, but Zanthoxylum bungeanum. The peppers come from Mexico. Chew slowly to taste the layered feeling, taste the mushroom aroma, and taste it."

Sun-dried authentic and original Jipin abalone (20 dried abalone without freshening agent)

I was just about to talk about the soft heart of abalone, but Master Lan said that we could talk about it in the 1930s and 1940s, but now we don't need it. After technology is developed, abalone can grow to 1 and a half kilograms in 5 years. It should be soft, tender and slippery to eat. "Just like wild fish and raising fish at home, whether abalone eats seaweed or feed in the sea is very important. After it is finished, it is the processing technology. The earliest soft core was boiled at 90 degrees of water, boiled at 60 degrees in the middle, picked up and placed there, and then formed a soft core. Not now. Every era is different, and some people don't accept it. In this case, it's enough to be a little soft in the middle."

What Master Lan makes is "authentic and original quality abalone". He explained this way: There are three flavors in boiling abalone. Sashimi abalone should taste sweet, and stewed abalone should taste meaty. Dried abalone is like the chicken we eat. It smells raw and bloody, and it smells cooked. After air-drying, the chicken has no meat flavor, but a fermented flavor. Whatever flavor you eat, you can push backwards to the ingredients.

The true original abalone is made from red wine, the Japanese use sake, and the coastal areas use Kanami wine. It has the aroma of wine, meat and fat and the flavor of foie gras. "Abalone is the strongest salty aroma. The Chinese pay attention to beginning and ending, so it is placed in the middle. According to the traditional Sichuan cuisine abalone, the first to go, but it is too thick. Abalone is the flavor of fermentation. Using ham, dried abalone has its own special aroma." Master Lan said.

There is a lot of attention to cutting abalone. One knife will divide the autumn equally, two knives will make you rich in the four seasons, and another knife will make you six or six smooth. The color is dark in the middle and light on the sides, with soft and elastic teeth. Master Lan uses ducks that have been good for more than two years to make soup. He said that Japan makes abalone best. They are all small abalone, with the largest 16 heads, with the aroma of tempeh. He borrowed the Cantonese method of abalone and Huaiyang cuisine, and then expressed it with the thoughts of Sichuan people to form the method of Yuzhilan. I sincerely sigh that Chinese food is art!

Original hot and sour sea caught fresh Liao ginseng (Liao ginseng may eat coral)

There are two appetizers in Sichuan, one is kimchi and the other is hot and sour. For the hot and sour sea caught fresh Liao ginseng, Master Lan said that the middle dragon tendon is good and cannot be removed. The base soup of this flour is flavored with chicken soup and Zhenjiang vinegar.

"Remember the original flavor of Sichuan, hot and sour noodles. Sea cucumbers feel like trotters. I know the cooking time of sea cucumbers as soon as I grab them. I know the hardness and nature. I know the time when they are alive and the cooked weight. Among the eight treasures in the northern sea, sea cucumber ranks first. In China, old hens and sea cucumber are a big supplement. Sea cucumber can be eaten every day, and if you eat two lobsters a day, you will have to go to the hospital. Including crabs, there are reasons why China ranks sea cucumbers first. You can put many on one CD. The Chinese people's thoughts on health preservation are my thoughts, and I will move forward step by step. Thinking in the process of cooking is a habit of Chinese people to maintain health, and the connotation must be realized."

Hawthorn cake

After the hot and sour sea cucumber is a small piece of hawthorn cake. Master Lan said that the hawthorn is made of meat. The mint leaf orchids decorated on the hawthorn cake, the master picked the tender one. He has his own garden and grows his own mint.

Douban eel

On the plate holding watercress eels, Master Lan carves his own fish, called Dragon Sheng Jiu Zi-Ichthyosaur. "100 years will not go out of style. It is a Chinese tradition. Europeans are very excited to see it. There are Chinese cultural elements in it."

"Eat the fish first. When you taste the rich umami taste of the fish, you will completely return to the feeling of the 20s and 30s. Eels are actually scaly and long-lived fish. The fermented watercress flavor is astringent at the end. Eat it with bibimbap in sauce. The rice is mixed with the sauce. The rice has the natural taste of fish. Eel skin is crispy. It will be crispy when cooking time is short and soft and glutinous when cooking time is long. Depending on the situation. Master Lan said that it would take three hours to make fish soup and it would take time. He specially placed this watercress eel in the middle of the dish, afraid that he wouldn't be able to eat the good things behind. "If you put the fish directly behind, the taste won't match it. If you don't eat hawthorn cake, you won't be able to eat it. Why is it difficult to reduce flavor? It is connected to the things above."

Steamed pear in wild cave swallow peach oil

The container for steaming pear with wild Dongyan peach oil was designed by Master Lan himself. I recognized that the picture on it was wisteria flowers. When it comes to Chinese culture, abstract art in the world is better in Europe, while Chinese abstract art is freehand brushwork. "This bottle is one of the four traditional Chinese bottles, called Plum Bottle. Plum vases don't sound good on the dining table. Plum blossoms don't have stamens before they open, so they are also called maid vases, so painting wisteria is full of vitality."

Stewed wild bird's nest in Sydney, the best pears in the world are in Jingchuan, Sichuan fritillary shells and Sydney. Wild cave swallow is different from other bird's nests. The color is different when uncovered. The biggest difference is that it is thinner. Wild cave swallow is from Malaysia. Depending on the growing environment and picking time, the fiber silk is very long. Wild bird's nest is stewed for two hours. The Sydney water is not sour, but there is also a peach gum in it, which is the collagen of the tree.

Red oil dumplings

The dish behind this is the feeling of the staple food. A Sichuan red oil dumpling is served in a slightly higher bowl. Master Lan explained why the bowl should be higher. He said that the collar should be higher. A person's pride lies in his neck, and a longer neck means the temperament of wealth and arrogance. In the Song Dynasty, good porcelain from wealthy families is tall, so he can create the arrogant temperament. It is painted with calamus, horseshoe flowers, and lead flowers, which is also abstract art. "The most popular thing is to combine freehand brushwork and abstract work together, and the court and folk work together. When Chinese embroidery is done, the ink paintings are dyed and embroidered, and the fine brushwork is reflected. Plum orchid, bamboo and chrysanthemum freehand brushwork processing pens, abstract art and line art, are all Chinese people to achieve the ultimate. They will not go out of style after thousands of years, and the lines will be achieved to the ultimate." Master Lan said to the painting.

Fresh green bean cake

Yuzhilan's soy sauce is brewed by Master Lan himself. Confucius soy sauce is brewed with spices and brown sugar. "Green soybean pancakes are eggs, flour, green soybeans, add water, and fry them without oil, because people here don't like them because there is too much oil. The plate is in the shape of a bamboo leaf, and the medium is food."

"Nordic people like original ecology, wooden things, and adding an iron frame will make Chinese food and Western food. In the Qing Dynasty, the Manchu and Han families were one family. The style of Yuzhilan Restaurant is like the feeling of the Republic of China, with Western ideas and Chinese elements expressed. The earliest meal division was in the Song Dynasty of China. Why did we need to warm cups abroad? It turns out that the root lies with us."

"Learn to be tolerant of others, and change your mind in the process of understanding. After opening up to the outside world, you prefer to have your own thoughts in it. You can change yourself but not the habits of the nation."

Sichuan white cabbage

The oil and salt all exceed the standard, and the end must return to nature, just a bowl of white water vegetables. When eating, eat green beans first, which are very sweet, and then eat pumpkin, which will be sweet. "Pumpkins are not from Sichuan. Sichuan will have no good pumpkins every day on rainy days."

Many tableware in Yuzhilan are handmade bowls. Master Lan said that Chinese habits are all in the tableware. The chopstick holder I noticed as soon as I sat down was a cartoon fish carved by Master Lan himself. It is an exaggerated art. The red color can withstand the tempering of time and is not annoying. The tables and chairs were made of African red pear and hedgehog red sandalwood. Master Lan said that the decoration tasted heavy once, so don't decorate it again, just decorate it once 10 years ago.

Master Lan said that there are four standards in the delicious food tasting process. The first comes from life, the second is collected from the private sector. This is a restaurant, and the third is a hotel club, which flaunts food."In France, Japan, Guangdong, and Hong Kong, society needs themes and needs to flaunt that they are cutting-edge, and flaunt food as the standard for cities to accept new things, otherwise they will not be angry." The fourth is to go down, understand yourself and understand the ingredients, understand what the objects you are facing need, what I can do, and display my artistic experience in the form of dishes. This is the highest part of food that I have ever seen before and then refine and interpret it.

Food needs to be advertised, exchanged learning experiences, and in turn calmed down to express thoughts. The best thing to do is to control this ingredient. "For example, peaches or flat peaches are delicious. It's a personal opinion. There are no standards for food, so it's good to like it. Before the Dragon Boat Festival, peaches should be used to make bird's nest. The character of each peach should be understood. It is delicious, and you should choose one. After understanding the ingredients, you must show your true nature and best display it. If you want to make peaches into vegetables and feel what the taste of natural ripening is, this is the chef. Chinese people advocate cooking culture, while foreign countries advocate cooking culture. What is cooking? My understanding of cooking is nature. Chinese people also need to take out the other side of the ingredients and give out the taste of the meat after stewing it. It requires slow cooking, how much water is needed, and how much time is needed to meet the requirements."

I have experienced the evolution of historical flavor and the strong cultural heritage. Time and place are changing, national borders are changing, and the truth remains unchanged.

Master Lan said that the appearance of European cooking is natural and straightforward, while the Chinese talk about the inner, penetrating the wood, and the source is natural. It starts under the knife and lives in the mouth. "What is cooking? Smooth out good materials, use a culture of fire for cooking, Western peppers need to be heated and water, and red oil peppers need to be made to have the fragrance of peanuts. It is very difficult. More and more people are learning cooking, and it will be easier to learn it after understanding it thoroughly."

Master Lan said that Chinese culture must be in line with the world, and you must know the prevailing standards. Foreigners 'beef, fish and chicken, and now truffle and oyster ham are made by others. You are the porter. Many Japanese materials are nature's porters, emphasizing the beauty of natural fermentation.

"In addition to porters, Chinese people emphasize balance. Chinese culture is unique, while Han culture is exaggerated, just to entertain oneself. Many Chinese dynasties came from outside and were afraid of being assimilated by us. The Chinese people called it soft to overcome the hardness and decided their eating habits. There are great cultural differences between Guangdong, North, Shanghai, and Northwest China, and national beliefs and social development needs have settled. Huaiyang cuisine emphasizes Chinese tradition, northern cuisine is a court culture, and Sichuan cuisine is tolerant and addictive to spicy food."

After eating a whole set of dishes, I felt the warmth on every plate. China began to warm dishes since the Ming Dynasty.

The energy of the world is flowing. We see the externalization of the table, we can express it in visual language, and understand the beauty of the outside and the wisdom. The wisdom of the middle exists. Western seasoning masters learned from Chinese food and began to cook steamed vegetables. This is where we are confident. "Studying Zhenzhen is the only way to cook. Many global Michelin take out Zhenzhen no matter what. The steaming process is to ensure that the nutrition of the food is intact. The earliest clear soup was Huaiyang cuisine to make chicken soup, and the soda was poured out to cook. If the chicken is not good, has a taste, and has a fishy smell during eating, the chicken has no natural meat aroma. If the master cooks it in water and rinses it, one-third of the nutrients will be lost, it will not taste delicious and will not feel heavy. It must be looking for flavor in chicken and soup. The chicken steamed today will not taste good in the afternoon. It will be too fragile because the molecular structure has not been treated, and the taste will be different if you add wine and salt."

"Eating stewed chicken noodles for 18 pieces cannot be the same as 180 yuan. 18 pieces of stewed chicken noodles meet safety standards. In the form of a working meal, 180 yuan a bowl. You have to know whether the chicken has been for more than a year. Whether the chef has chosen the chicken well, whether the chicken is good, whether the noodles are handmade or bought? This is called delicious food. You can't make a comment on a working meal for 18 yuan. In the process of making delicious food, the most important thing is understanding. First, we must understand the employees, understand the ingredients, and finally understand the customers. After the three parties understand, they open a restaurant to cook. Generally, no mistakes can be made, and the manager is the chief dispatcher."

When Master Lan makes spicy oil peppers, they are sweet first."Singapore's are so sweet. Indians are all red and salty when eaten." He said that when making red oil, one needs to understand the temperature of sugar. It starts at 155 degrees, it starts at 190 degrees, and it starts at 210 degrees. The spiciness and sweetness determine the temperature of the pepper. "On the other hand, if I understand the temperature well, I only have one-third of the oil to warm it. To refine oil, the oil contains trans fatty acids after a temperature of more than 185 degrees, which is harmful to the human body. Therefore, one-third of the oil is used to minimize the harm. I am responsible to my customers. The distance between the kitchen and the dining room should not exceed 30 meters to ensure the temperature. Thinking is very important during the cooking process. Thinking determines the direction. If you look at the menu and the chef's affairs, you can see it at a glance."

As for the spicy taste of Sichuan, I now taste the sweetness and admire the mountains. In fact, the rhythm of every dish in a good restaurant is very important, making people comfortable and relaxing, and the last dish can still be tasted. Master Lan once had a customer who had eaten a lot of Michelin and said that his dishes did not have the unrestrained flavor of Sichuan.

"When I go out to cook, I must think about the first dish. In the old Chinese saying, you can advance three steps. If you run after five steps, you can't keep up if you exceed 500 meters, and the taste won't pass. The explosive taste became street food. When we ate spicy food outside, he definitely said that we tasted terrible and would take more than two hours to eat it. If you finish eating cold dishes without resting, you can't eat hot dishes immediately. The fermentation is stronger than the natural flavor and it is not delicious, so you have to calm down and eat them."

Let's tolerate it first and talk later.

The goddess asked

Recommend a restaurant you like?

"I will seize the throat of fate,

I must not let fate bring me to submission."

--Beethoven's "Letter to Wiggeller"

Food Bless You!

Consultant for China International Food Expo

Producer of "God's Table"