In the three years of the epidemic, all industries in the magic city are in chaos, but Michelin restaurants are thriving. Under lockdown, surprisingly, there was no shortage of seats available. On the occasion of returning to Shanghai several times and having nothing to do, I took the opportunity to sweep through more than half of the area. Record the essay for the enjoyment of fellow enthusiasts.

Although food is of paramount importance to the people, catering is vastly different from other industries. Whenever it comes to food, there is often no unified standard, which can be confusing. Various countries and regions are filled with self proclaimed claims, and no one is willing to accept them. Fortunately, someone has already established three comparable dimensions: 1) the quality of ingredients; 2) Cooking techniques/characteristics; 3) Whether to maintain coherence and whether there are any viewers who have downloaded the disc.. For nearly a century, Michelin has set a benchmark for the international food and beverage industry by conducting anonymous visits, evaluating cuisine, and providing guides multiple times a year, enjoying a global reputation.

Although originating in pre war France and gradually spreading to Germany, Italy, England, and the Netherlands, the Michelin Guide broke out of Western Europe and entered the world after the millennium. In 2005, it landed in the United States, in 2007 in Japan, and in 2008 in Hong Kong and Macau.. At the beginning of 2017, we arrived on the mainland of China and scattered the first batch of star certificates to the Magic City. Now, we have covered 116 star rated restaurants in Shanghai, Guangzhou, Beijing, and Chengdu. Compared to France with over 600, Japan with over 400, Germany with over 300, Italy with over 200, Spain/Portugal, the United States, the United Kingdom/Ireland, the mainland is indeed slightly less trendy; Compared to Switzerland, the Netherlands, Belgium/Luxembourg. And it far exceeds the remaining 20 countries in the Michelin circle, including Eastern Europe, Southeast Asia, and especially the recently listed Canada and Russia. Australia and New Zealand can still temporarily laugh and remain blank.

Of the more than 100 star rated restaurants in Chinese Mainland, magic occupies nearly half. However, those Shanghai time-honored brands that have been able to articulate since childhood are not on the list. Such as: Xinghua Tower, Wang Baohe, Meilong Town, Guansheng Garden, Gongde Forest, Lvbo Corridor, Xinya, Yangzhou Hotel; And Red House, Commander Kai, and Deda Western Restaurant; There are also various Chinese and Western restaurants in Shanghai Tower, Jinjiang Hotel, Peace Hotel, and International Hotel; Surprisingly, none of them were shortlisted, except for Lao Zhengxing on Fourth Avenue.

Upon closer examination, it is estimated that the biggest weakness lies in coherence, which is closely related to the arbitrary nature of Chinese thinking. Therefore, it is not easy to achieve a star in the land of China, even if it is only one Michelin star: "a very good restaurant in its class". For example, there are many authentic local restaurants on both sides of the Pujiang River, similar to the century old ones. Sauteed Shrimps in oil and fried eel paste not only have the same ingredients, but also have the same methods. Therefore, the vast majority of 1-star winners are meticulous and average in their dishes. Or placed among the various buildings on the Bund, such as Yidao, encountering the Bund; Or located within high-end hotels, such as Yilong Pavilion and Yongfu; Or spare no expense and renovate the old western-style house, just like the "Fu" sign on Yuyuan Road. Being immersed in it, reminiscing about old Shanghai, feels like a world apart.

Despite this, there are still many stunning aspects among the 1-star ratings in Shanghai. For example, the crab roe and rice with rice, as well as the shredded water bamboo and eel, promoted by Renhe Pavilion; Li Yuan must eat ice braised three-layer meat, pork ribs with Chen Cun powder; Shanghai's signature truffle beef face. The gold medal braised pork in the southern foothills of Zhejiang combines color, aroma, and geometric shapes: rolled into a pyramid shape to attract attention, and with a knife at the folding point to make it easy to eat. Equally charming are the abalone puff pastry, black truffle sesame balls, and Yin Tao foie gras from Huangpu Club No. 3. Although the latter can also be tasted in places like Deer Park, the Huangpu Guild Hall is uniquely crafted. But seeing the rose bead round and the clouds swirling around. Besides being pleasing to the eye, I have to give it a thumbs up, even though it's not authentic fatty foie gras, it's just a regular duck liver sauce.

As for the few 2-star restaurants, they have a halo of "excellent cooking skills, worth taking a detour" on their heads. But the enjoyment result seems to be not much different from 1 star. Although the price is higher, fortunately most customers can still order their own dishes, such as the Yubao Pavilion at the northern end of the Bund. Compared to foreign countries, it is more comfortable to easily deduct a fixed package from you. Especially the quicksand bags at No. 8 Xiyue on Runan Road, which are of high quality and affordable, are worth revisiting. As the preferred destination for Michelin, the exquisite craftsmanship of Shanghai style chefs is even more impressive than the origin of various cuisines. For example, in Jipinxuan, smoked cod, truffles, and beef gift boxes, although their cost-effectiveness is not satisfactory.

However, if you can truly bring the exquisite craftsmanship to the extreme, it is undoubtedly a 3-star restaurant: 'Extraordinary cuisine, worth a special trip'. Unfortunately, Alara is more refined than creative, and both 3-star brands are operated by Westerners. Looking around the entire continent, only the imperial capital has two independent 3-star restaurants, although they are not Beijing cuisine. But for diners who aim to eat their fill, restaurants that focus on "handicrafts" are not a good option. Because cooking has become an art creation here, and the digestive system of the diners is the ultimate destination of the artwork. For example, Tai'anmen, located in Changning Alley, is managed by a German chef. Not only does it require booking several months in advance, but it is often difficult to find one. Sitting around the open kitchen for a few hours at a leisurely pace. About 10 fixed set dishes, each only enough for one or two bites. I can only chew slowly, accompanied by the waiter's gentle reminder. Otherwise, based solely on appearance, it is impossible to guess which species the dish belongs to.

It is worth mentioning that one of the two 3-star winners, Paul Behai, although charging nearly a thousand dollars per person in its mysterious ultraviolet light, also opened a common French restaurant with an average price of less than a hundred dollars on the 6th floor of No. 18 on the Bund, south of the South Tower of the Peace Hotel. In Xintiandi, south of Huaihai Road, it also operates Polux Pavilion with an average price of only 2-300 yuan. The latter has won the Michelin "bib award": although there are no stars, the taste is not expensive (Bib gourmand). On the 3rd and 1st floors of the same building, No. 18 on the Bund, there are also the Michelin legend with the most stars in history, the 2-star French restaurant Joe Rubzon, a cake shop, and a afternoon tea hall. Sitting in the magnificent hall by the Huangpu River, savoring cakes with exquisite brand names, it's like being on the banks of the Seine River.

In contrast, the Michelin stars in Guangzhou, who are one year younger, are somewhat disappointing. Not only is the 3-star rating absent, but the quantity is also significantly lagging behind, despite Cantonese cuisine being highly praised in the magic city. Located on Shamian Island, Yutang Chunnuan in the White Swan Hotel has been known as the best in Guangzhou for many years, but it only has one star. Although the market is bustling, there is often a need to wait for a seat. However, Huishi, which is separated by a river, is more accessible to the general public but lacks exquisite taste. The Peninsula Famous Pavilion inside the Tianhe Mayor's Building offers better quality afternoon tea than banquets. In the past few years, the only 2-star Jiang's restaurant was dedicated to innovative cuisine, although there were surprises, the cost-effectiveness was slightly lacking. As for the newly promoted 2-star Royal Pavilion near the the Pearl River New City, it is well regulated and lacks excellence.

Obviously, Michelin's biggest characteristic as a benchmark in the catering industry is its secret visits several times a year. If the 'customer' is not satisfied, they will be disqualified, such as in a certain pavilion in Shanghai a few years ago or in a certain neighborhood this year. This is the only way to maintain quality and reputation, not only allowing everyone to confidently enjoy delicious food, but also making a tire company an unexpected super judge in the catering industry.

1. Gold medal braised pork in southern Zhejiang

2. Yin Tao Goose Liver from Huangpu Club No. 3

3. Yubao Pavilion at the northern end of the Bund

4. "Crafts" of Tai'anmen

5. Joe Lubson's Afternoon Tea Hall at No. 18 on the Bund

6-7, a masterpiece of Joe Lubson's Cake House

8-11, Shanghai Tower, Peace Hotel, International Hotel

12-13, the first New Year's Eve after the release of the demon capital

14. Yutang Spring Warmth in Guangzhou White Swan Hotel

Attachment: Some Michelin starred restaurants in Shanghai, address, phone number, and reference average price (mostly subject to a 10% service fee)

3 * Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet, Creative Cuisine, 6th Floor, No. 18 Zhongshan East Road,=y5500/person

3 * Tai'anmen, Creative Cuisine, No. 161, Lane 465, Zhenning Road, 2500 yuan/person, 8+2-4 set meals

2 * L'Atelier de Jo ë l Robuchon, French cuisine, afternoon tea, No. 18 Zhongshan East Road,=y1800/person

2 * Xinrongji, Taizhou cuisine, 170 Nanyang Road,=y1500/person,

2 * Baolixuan, Cantonese cuisine, 3rd floor, General Chamber of Commerce Building, Lane 108, Shanxi North Road,=y1100/person,

2 * Jipinxuan, Cantonese cuisine, No. 55 Urumqi South Road,=y1000/person,

2 * Yubaoxuan, Cantonese cuisine, No. 99 Beijing East Road,=y450/person,

2 * Xi Yue 8, Cantonese cuisine, 63 Runan Street,=y250/person,

1 * Yongfu, Ningbo cuisine, Jinjiang Restaurant, No. 59 Maoming South Road,=y900/person

1 * Sheng Yongxing, Jingcai, 5th floor, No. 20 Guangdong Road,=y830/person

1 * Mingge, Cantonese cuisine, 333 Shenhong Road=y800/person

Encountering the Bund, Mincai, No. 600 Zhongshan East 2nd Road=y700/person

1 * Yongyiting, Shanghai cuisine, No. 111 Pudong South Road,=y690/person

1 * Fu 1088, Shanghai cuisine, No. 375 Zhenning Road,=y660/person

1 * Jia Quan Qi Fu, Cantonese cuisine, 1515 Nanjing West Road,=y630/person

1 * Lu Cai, Lu Cai, Room 207, 2nd Floor, Huan Yu Hui, Lane 838, Huangpi South Road,=y600/person

1 * Xinrongji, Taizhou cuisine, 688 Nanjing West Road,=y580/person

1 * Chenglongxing Crab King's Mansion, Shanghai cuisine, No. 216 Jiujiang Road,=y550/person

1 * Yidao, Huaiyang Cuisine, No. 31-91, Beijing East Road,=y540/person

1 * Yilongge, Cantonese cuisine, 2nd floor, Peninsula Hotel, No. 32 Zhongshan East Road,=y450/person

1 * Da Dong, Fashionable Cuisine, 6th Floor, Huanmao Plaza, 999 Huaihai Middle Road,=y440/person,

1 * Fu 1039, Shanghai cuisine, 1039 Yuyuan Road,=y400/person

Huangpu Club No.1 * No.3, Cantonese cuisine, 5th floor, No.3 Zhongshan East 1st Road,=y400/person,

1 * Liyuan, Cantonese cuisine, 4th floor, Huanmao Plaza, 999 Huaihai Middle Road=y380/person

1 * Liyuan, Cantonese cuisine, 3rd floor, Guojin Center Shopping Mall, No. 8 Century Avenue,=y370/person,

1 * Luyuan, Huaiyang Cuisine Cuisine, 9th Floor, Lujiazui Center, No. 899, Pudong South Road,=y370/person,

1 * Shanghai fan, Shanghai cuisine, 6th floor, No. 1108 Meihua Road,=y350/person,

1 * Nanlu Zhe Li, Hangbang Cai, No. 216 Sichuan Middle Road,=y280/person, (to be discontinued in 2023)

1 * Renhe Pavilion, Shanghai cuisine, No. 407 Zhaojiabang Road,=200/person,

1 * Lao Zhengxing, Shanghai cuisine, No. 556 Fuzhou Road,=y160/person,

0 * Polux by Paul Pairet, French cuisine, No. 5, Lane 181, Taicang Road,=200/person

Partial Michelin starred restaurants in Guangzhou, address, phone number, and reference average price:

2 * Jiang, Cantonese cuisine, 3rd floor, Wenhua Oriental Hotel, 389 Tianhe Road,=y630/person,

2 * Yubaoxuan, Cantonese cuisine, 5th floor, Tianhui Plaza, 222 Xingmin Road,=y430/person,

1 * Yutang Chunnuan, Cantonese cuisine, White Swan Hotel, No.1 Shamian South Street,=y400/person,

1 * Huishijia, Cantonese cuisine, No. 172 Binjiang West Road, Haizhu District,=200/person,

1 * Peninsula Mingxuan, Cantonese cuisine, Mayor's Building, 189 Tianhe North Road,=y150/person,