[Gouqi Island Shanghai-Suzhou Tour] 8. Classical garden Humble Administrator's Garden, bright moon, breeze, me

2020/10/31 This is a day when visiting ancient gardens and historical and cultural districts complement each other, covering Humble Administrator's Garden, Pingjiang Road, listening to Suzhou Pingtan, and visiting Qili Shantang

[Accident: A group of friends died in Gusu]

Today is the last day of the trip. At around 5 o'clock in the morning, a group of friends sent a group voice message on WeChat, saying that his wife was not feeling well and asked the tour guide to come. The tour guide replied,"Okay, I'll be right over."

At 7:20 at breakfast, Sister Xiaowen told me that there were five or six police officers guarding the entrance of the 6th building and the doctor was inside. At first, we all thought that the group member had a cold and a fever, but now the epidemic is not over yet, so the police came.

After breakfast, I saw 2 police cars and a police motorcycle parked in front of the hotel.

7:12 The tour guide said on WeChat: Dear friends, the Su Hesheng Museum we visited today has been postponed for the weekend. We are scheduled to leave again at 9 o'clock today.

At 8:47, the tour guide sent another WeChat message: Dear group members, let's get on the bus at 9 o'clock. I have something urgent today. Later, another colleague of mine, Shi Dao, will take you on today's itinerary, which will bring to everyone. Please understand the trouble you have. If you have any questions, you can contact Shi Dao who will get on the bus later or contact me.

In front of the bus we took, I asked another group member about the situation. He said: I left, I was 65 years old, and I felt uncomfortable immediately. Although she was not our relative, she was our group member because I was alone. I joined the group, so I still don't know who went to heaven.

Later, the oldest aunt in the regiment said: The auxiliary police carried her away with a large delivery bag.

After getting on the bus, I realized that there were two people missing in the last row where I was sitting. The old lady who had left, her wife and I were sitting in the last row. As soon as she got on the bus, she kept chattering. At that time, she still complained about her for talking so much and making it so noisy, but now no one disturbs me anymore...

Life is impermanent. She was fine when she looked at the night view last night. A few hours later, she was separated by yin and yang. It is really heaven above and Suzhou below, and life is fixed in Suzhou, fulfilling the saying,"I wonder which comes first, tomorrow or accident?" Soo!

A stone guide came and took us to visit Humble Administrator's Garden first.

Humble Administrator's Garden is named "Humble Administrator's Garden" after Pan Yue's "Leisure Residence Fu" of the Jin Dynasty, meaning "irrigating the garden and selling vegetables to provide daily meals... This is also the governance of the clumsy".

It was built in the early years of Zhengde in the Ming Dynasty (early 16th century) and built by Wang Xianchen, the censor during the Jiajing period. It is a representative work of classical gardens in the south of the Yangtze River. Together with Beijing Summer Palace, Chengde Summer Resort, and Suzhou Lingering Garden, it is known as China's four famous gardens.

The park is centered on water and surrounded by mountains and rivers. The east is open and sparse, the west is beautifully built, and the middle is centered on a pool, with mountains piled in the pool, which is the essence of the whole garden. The south of the park is a traditional Jiangnan architectural pattern, with Suzhou Garden Museum, the only garden museum in China.

Outside the gate is full of people, and as soon as we enter the park, there are still people walking in rows. It is simply too lively! I thought that by entering Humble Administrator's Garden, I could stay away from the hustle and bustle of the world and enter the poetic Jiangnan water town. Who knew that this was not the case?

What you see is a stone mountain full of flowers and trees. Isn't it just to get straight to the point and make people's eyes shine? Using water as the neighbor and decorated with ancient trees, flowers, trees, and rocks is the usual method of Su School gardens. However, people took photos and passed by on the stone and stone doors, disturbing the tranquility.

Lanxuetang: The main hall in the east of Humble Administrator's Garden. This hall is the first view to enter the garden. The name of the hall comes from Li Bai's poetry of "Between independent heaven and earth, the breeze shines blue snow".

Moving forward along the gravel path, the ancient trees overlap and unfold like umbrellas, leaving no debris around them, creating an empty beauty of white space. This reminds me of the text "Suzhou Garden" I once taught when I was a teacher. The scenes depicted in the scene actually have a familiar feeling. Most of the ancient trees are close to the water's edge, and there are often ancient trees that grow and tilt towards the water's edge. The canopy covers a piece of water. When summer is hot, Ying Yan and fish and ducks will also enjoy the shade below.

Crossing the flow of people, patiently admire the nine-winding corridors, pavilions, small bridges and flowing water, quiet and distant. There is Yuanxiang Hall, which uses the fragrance of lotus to symbolize character. It is the main building in the main scenic area of the Humble Administrator's Garden in the middle. It is located on the south bank of the pool. Lotus flowers are planted everywhere in the pool. The water is clear and vast. Unfortunately, the flowering season has passed, and the lotus leaves in the pool are still in ruins; There is a lotus breeze and four willows on all sides, half of the pool and autumn water on one side "; there is a Wuzhu Youju Pavilion that" borrows the breeze and shines brightly on the moon, and watches the flowing water and observes the mountains".

A clear pool came into view, with ancient trees and weeping willows brushing the water, beautiful lakes and rocks, elegant pavilions and pavilions, and lush flowers and trees. Mountains, water, stones, ponds, forests, pavilions and halls blend like nature. Everywhere is full of poetry and painting, and everywhere is full of romance and warmth.

It is said that the Yue opera "Dream of the Red Chamber" was filmed here, and the Grand View Garden in Beijing is said to be based on the Humble Administrator's Garden.

The characteristic of Humble Administrator's Garden is that the garden layout is very clever. It seems to be a pagoda in the garden, but it is actually the Beisi Pagoda more than 2500 meters away. Wen Zhengming's unique scenery has brought unexpected surprises to tourists for hundreds of years. The pond in the garden covers an area of nearly six acres, accounting for about one-third of the total area.

I think the most poetic thing in the park is the Tingyuxuan connected with the curved corridors of the surrounding buildings. Imagine that whenever it rains, the raindrops fall on the clear water in front of the pavilion and leave the mud unstained. The lotus flowers planted in the pavilions fall on the green bamboo by the pool, and the plantains in front of and behind the pavilion. You can hear the sound of rain with different tastes.

(This picture comes from the Internet, so I would like to thank you)

Sitting with Who to Sit with Xuan has a unique personality. The pavilion is very unique and is built into a folding fan shape. It is called Fanting. Su Dongpo has the poem "Who is sitting with? Bright moon, breeze, I "means that except for the clear wind and bright moon, no one can sit with Su Dongpo, hence the name" Who to sit with?" The pavilion is built next to the water and has a fan shape. The roof, pavilion door, window hole, stone table, stone bench and pavilion roof, lampshade, wall plaque, and half column are all fan-shaped. They are small, elegant and unique, so they are also called "Fan Pavilion". The entire pavilion reflects the water and is beautiful.

After repeated renovations by famous craftsmen and masters of many dynasties, the park has changed steps and scenery. It has the beauty of growing flowers step by step, and the big world can be seen in an inch. Sometimes "the courtyard is deep and deep", sometimes "the fragrance of April on earth is exhausted." I can see the shadow of the bridge flying and the green willow pavilions, and occasionally I can see the reflection of the pavilions rippling in the blue waves. The pool is full of summer lotus and the sparkling water, just like a person swimming in a painting, which makes people have endless aftertaste.

The Snow Fragrance Yunwei Pavilion is located at the highest point in the middle of the Humble Administrator's Garden. The "Snow Fragrance" comes from the "fragrant snow" that compares "plum blossoms". Su Shi, a poet of the Song Dynasty,"Moonlit Night and Guests Drinking Apricot Flowers","Place wine between the flowers and give off a fragrant aroma, Fight for long strips to fall on the fragrant snow." The "cloud wei" in snow-fragrant clouds refers to dense forests in the mountains. A plaque inscribed in cursive script "Between Mountains, Flowers and Wild Birds" hangs on the south eaves of the Xuexiang Yunwei Pavilion, and a couplet hangs on the south pillar of the pavilion,"The chirping of cicadas makes the forest quieter, and the chirping of birds makes the mountains quieter." Wintersweet trees are planted around the pavilion. In winter, sit in the pavilion and enjoy the snow scenery. Outside the pavilion, the wintersweet trees are in full bloom, with a dark fragrance that is refreshing and refreshing.

There were so many people, but they only photographed the plaque "Among Mountains, Flowers and Wild Birds", but they still couldn't avoid the great head.

The water corridor (wavy corridor) is located on the east wall of the West Garden. It is called the "water corridor" because it straddles the water surface. The ups and downs, the twists and turns left and right, with curves and movements, and is called the wavy corridor. In the northern section, there is a small pavilion on the top of a square, rolling tent protruding into the pool and low on the water surface, called the "Diaoyutai". There is a small gap between the east side and the wall, where plantains are planted and stalagmites are matched to form a small scene. This corridor is a boutique among Suzhou's classical garden corridors.

Thirty-six Mandarin ducks Pavilion is the main building of the West Garden of Suzhou Humble Administrator's Garden. It is exquisite and gorgeous. In the south is the "Eighteen Mandala Flower Pavilion" and in the north is the "Thirty-six Mandarin ducks Pavilion". This is a form of mandarin duck hall in ancient buildings. The South Hall is the Eighteen Mandala Flower Hall, suitable for winter and spring. Mandala flowers are camellia flowers. The North Hall is named after thirty-six pairs of mandarin ducks were raised in Linchi.

Only Yuanyang Pavilion in the entire Humble Administrator Garden has this kind of diamond-shaped colored window grilles, which is very eye-catching. It is said that in the late Qing Dynasty, the area where Yuanyang Hall was located belonged to Suzhou Wangzhai Garden, which was in ruins at that time. In the third year of Guangxu (1877), salt merchant Zhang Luqian bought the place and repaired and built it. It was completed in the fifth year of Guangxu (1879). The new garden was named "Buyuan" by Zhang Luqian. The blue glass of the Yuanyang Pavilion was bought from Europe by Zhang Luqian on behalf of Hong Jun, the envoy of the Qing government in Germany (Hong Jun was the No. 1 scholar from Suzhou, and the plaque inscribed in the museum "36 Yuanyang Pavilion" was also his inscription). The reason why he bought this blue glass is somewhat unbelievable to Cantonese people-because there is little snow in Suzhou, and by looking at the scenery outside through this glass, you can pretend that there is snow outside. After testing it, I could see snowflakes.

The Bonsai Garden in the west of Humble Administrator's Garden is very popular. Inside a simple fence wall, there are nearly 10,000 pots of Su School bonsai concentrated in Suzhou gardens. It is said that bonsai began in the Han and Tang Dynasties and flourished in the Song Dynasties. Wang Ao, a native of Wu County in the Ming Dynasty, wrote "The Annals of Gusu":"The people of Huqiu are good at planting strange flowers and flowers in pots, and arranging pine trees and ancient plum trees in several tables. They are elegant and lovely, which is called bonsai." Gusu is not only good at the beauty of gardens, but also famous for its bonsai making. Liu Luan's "Five Stone Hu":"Today, people play with the trees and stones between the pots and pans. The elderly bend and shorten them, and the big ones cut them and cut them. Some skin is an inch long enough to bear fruits, or some insects and fish are close to each other. They are called bonsai. People in the Yuan Dynasty call it some scenery." The small bonsai garden is like a pearl inlaid in the crown. Its bright brilliance attracts all people who love bonsai art and adds endless charm to Humble Administrator's Garden.

Many people took photos with the house covered with vines.

Traveling through so many bonsai with different shapes, different materials but equally simple, elegant, and vivid charm, I feel that time has stopped in this sunny, gentle breeze, and slightly tipsy noon.

Yuanxiang Hall was originally the place where the owner of Humble Administrator's Garden hosted guests. It is the main building in Humble Administrator's Garden. It is surrounded by long glass windows on all sides, which are transparent, comfortable and bright, and you can see the beautiful scenery around you. It is also known as the "Four Side Hall". There is a pool of water in front of the hall with lotus flowers planted in it. In Song Zhou Dunyi's "Love Lotus Shuo", there is the sentence "Fragrance is far and more clear", hence the name.

Humble Administrator's Garden is famous for its water, scattered courtyards, and flowers and trees. It can be said that each step is a scene, just like walking in poetry and painting. Every pavilion is a poem, every water pavilion is a painting, and every building It is a perfect combination of literary beauty and architectural beauty. If you point your mobile phone and camera anywhere, you can take pictures of the beauty.

a hollow tree

However, today's "Humble Administrator's Garden" is really lively. The flashes of tourists taking pictures crazily, the droplets of tour guides with gusto, and the figures of children climbing and jumping all flooded into a sea of joy. The shadows are dense, the cameras are flashing, the mobile phones are thick, and the people are bustling and in a hurry. It is extremely difficult to take an aerial scene. Unexpectedly, all this is contrary to the original intention of the garden protectors. Behind the excitement is loneliness, and I am even more afraid of seeing the loneliness of the entire Suzhou culture.

When tourism became a blind photo and walk for most people, I could only find my spiritual paradise in the ethereal classical fantasy. When I didn't want to come back to Suzhou in the future, I lamented where Suzhou was?

（3364 2020/11/20）