Suzhou, gentle in a little hao 2
UP ChinaTravel
2024-07-09 00:10:11
0Times

D2, 06-21, Monday, breakfast was the buffet in the hotel. At 7:30, ting and zhang took the opportunity to get a seat, and ping and I arrived immediately. We ate a breakfast with various kinds and abundant supplies, and we spent an hour eating slowly.



After dinner, the four of us walk around the hotel, see mountains and rivers, flowers and plants, are the hotel's own, we pay attention to the fine spotless lotus, but also pay attention to the peacock, see the picture:




See our hotel from above:



Also:



9:00, back to the hotel, sorting, 9:45, check out. Today's plan: Baodai Bridge - Fengqiao, Hanshan Temple - Shantang Street - Suzhou Wyndham Garden Hotel, before arriving in Suzhou Old Town, first visit Baodai Bridge, Baodai Bridge power as the link between the industrial park and Suzhou Old Town.


Top ten ancient Bridges in China: Zhaozhou Bridge (Zhaoxian County, Hebei Province), Lugou Bridge (Beijing), Luoyang Bridge (Quanzhou, Fujian Province), Guangji Bridge (Chaoan, Guangdong Province), Anping Bridge (Quanzhou, Fujian Province), Baodi Bridge (Suzhou, Jiangsu Province), Wuting Bridge (Yangzhou, Jiangsu Province), Tiezuo Bridge (Luding, Sichuan Province), Jiangdong Bridge (Zhangzhou, Fujian Province), Ba Bridge (Xi 'an, Shaanxi Province). I have seen, there are Luoyang Bridge, five Ting Bridge, Tie Rope Bridge, Ba Bridge, today to complete the fifth, Baodai Bridge.


10:00, we set out, the path: Xinghu Street - Dushu Lake Avenue - Yingchun Road - Shihu East Road - Baotian Street, the planning is very good, but in Shihu East Road out of the deviation, navigator blind, determined not to introduce Baotian Street parking lot, we change the navigator, Baidu can not, changed to Gaode, the results of the brothers a moral!


At 10:45, Amitabha Buddha, we stopped at the Baotian Street parking lot as we wished and asked a few passers-by, but no one knew the Baodai Bridge. Discouraged in the heat, one of the drivers gave the best answer: go north along the canal, that is, even borrow through a gap in the park parapet ahead.


When we arrived at the southern end of Baodai Bridge beside the canal, we were greeted by a pair of stone lions, do you know? This is the water god beast. According to the literature, during the years of Tang Yuan and Tang Dynasty, Wang Zhongshu, a Suzhou governor, sold the girdle in order to build the bridge. The local scholars were moved and donated money one after another to build the bridge to solve the bottleneck of canal transport. Later generations named the bridge Baodai Bridge. The present Baobai Bridge was rebuilt during the Ming Orthodox years, and the north and south ends of the bridge originally had a pair of stone lions. Now the northern pair is alive, and the southern pair has long since sunk to the bottom of the river, but the stone lion we have seen today is clearly at the southern end of the bridge.



As a barge approached, the sweltering waves lashed the 53-hole long Belt Bridge, even leaping over the ancient bridge. I dodged the waves and walked quickly to the north of the bridge, ping, ting and zhang, only in the shade of the south bridge, not following.



The construction of the north of the bridge has begun to take shape, Baobai Long Bridge has become the core of the Grand Canal National Cultural Park, I am based on the famous landscape Baobai string moon, although this day, everything is in vain, but I can imagine the bright sky under the solitary moon of the fisherman's eyes a river, a long bridge.



Before going back, I took a panoramic picture of the Po Belt Long Bridge towards the canal and towards the South Bank, but unfortunately the Po Belt Bridge was too low-key, so that the inclined MTR Bridge outside the beacon light had the opportunity to dominate.


After the summary, Baotai Bridge attractions are too small, actually between the four of us, also failed to reach the tacit understanding, which is the most intense reaction, when ping, my sweet, your arsenic? Not really, from the parking place to the Baodai Bridge, ping was affected by this too lengthy bridge introduction, enduring the emotional vent after a long time, understanding, understanding.


At 11:15, we set out again after gathering, drove thirty miles, the direction of Fengqiao, Hanshan Temple.


Only half an hour later, we have parked the car park of Fengqiao Road Hanshanlou Hotel. Opposite Suzhou family noodle restaurant, Fengzhen noodle restaurant, crowded, wine flag, we first lunch, or first tour? The consensus is to meet again after the tour.


After the purchase of tickets, immediately from the cold pick up the trail to enter, the so-called cold pick up, that is, He two immortal, the two monks who created Hanshan Temple and picked up. The road to the west, the north is Puming tower Hanshan Temple, the south is the big bell tower Fanyin Pavilion. We follow Zhang Ji's "Fengqiao Night Moor", from south to west, and then from west to north, clockwise, to draw a great completion.



Hanshan Zhong Yuan south walk, the main road is transparent and straight, the side road is winding and low, where Zen temple, there is no place for meditation and enlightenment, or you rush to the ancient temple in the morning, the early sunshine high forest; Or you night thinking, bird bed pool tree, monk knock on the door of the moon. The world's endless three hundred and sixty-five miles of road, as far as possible is this half an mu of pond, in the dark, there is a great enlightenment of the full flow of water. Once Han Shan and picked up in this mutual question and answer, Han Shan asked: Some people in the world slander me, deceive me, insult me, laugh at me, light me, cheap me, cheat me, how to deal with it? He said, "Just bear with him, let him, let him go, avoid him, tolerate him, respect him, ignore him, and stay a few more years until you see him." What a deep understanding, so light to let go, very healing, this is the Hanshan monastery, this is the real thinking of the Buddha system.



I can't help but look back, Hanshan Temple is far away, but the big bell tower Fanyin Pavilion is in front of me.


I am behind too much, and quickly catch up with the ping, ting and zhang of the Huaxia poem tablet, which occupies the forever C position among the many "Fengqiao Night Berth" poem tablets, which should belong to the Chinese studies master Yu Yue's book engraved. We raised our heads and silently intoned: the moon is down, the crows are crying in the frost, the river maple fishing fire is sad to sleep, the cold mountain Temple outside Gusu City, the bell is ringing at midnight to the passenger ship, which has been far away to the Tang Dynasty of Zhang Ji 1,400 years ago.



We from the south to the west, a high specification of the Yuyin bridge, heavy eaves and the top of the mountain system, connecting the Beijing-Hangzhou Canal in the small island island, we are held up across, this island, this small island, the name is temporarily forgotten, but it feels very similar to Dujiangyan.



The monuments on the small island, in addition to the Yu Yin Bridge, there are Tang lanterns, but our preference is a small garden, a private garden of literati, the owner of Duan Yujie, grandfather Gong Zizhen, a generation of exegetician, Confucian scholar, "Shuowen Jiezi Note" author. Duan's garden, personality is famous for small, bamboo hedge and bamboo grove, interior decoration lake rock rockery, verandah round between the pavilions, not a hundred steps, within ten steps there will be grass, so small, near the end of the world, we are the pot fifty paces laughing hundred steps, this small courtyard but there is a big universe.



At present, our path has unconsciously moved from west to north, after the Jiangcun Bridge, is the original grass hall, here there is no literati lofty, there is only commercial operation.



I walked around a circle alone, this river village, this cottage, Qingjiang a song holding the village flow, the long summer river village all quiet, thoughts are always inseparable from the poem Saint Du Fu. A phone call, ting: The three of us are listening to the clock bridge, where are you? I'm on my way. I'm in the meadow.


Listening to the bell bridge is the maple Bridge, iron Lingguan, Puming Pagoda excellent viewing point, here gathered many photography enthusiasts, but one of the individual uncle aunt, cow cow, street card, fancy as demon, all kinds of abdominal black means, everything, I found a moment gap, left a few photos in a hurry.



Here we have to thank our zhang thoughtful, bought the chilled mineral water to distribute, flowers, rain in the dry heat, summer-cooling treatment is not sick, at this moment we are the temporary chairman of the trade union, not zhang!



After the road, we did not go to the surprise Hongdu, did not go to the water horse Yi, but across the maple bridge, over the Tie Ling Pass, from the north to the east, back to our maple bridge Road parking point, 12:40 time, a question: how did not go to Puming Tower Hanshan Temple? You shouldn't! It took us another 15 minutes to complete the tour of Hanshan Temple.



We did not fulfill our promise to eat noodles in front, and this bowl of noodles was finally implemented in Qili Shantang. The car along the maple bridge road has been eastbound, passing through the west garden, once in the pledge, enjoy the scenery of the garden, to the point is, lazy in the wave. Continue a bit, we will park in Changxu Road Fairy Street, mark down a landmark, opposite is Changmen Outlet.


We Chang Xu Road on foot, the direction of Shantang Street, and looking for a chance to complete the long overdue lunch, many fair attractions, such as fish pier, bridge, Tang Shaofu Bai Gong Temple, we unanimously passed, and an ordinary Dongwu noodle restaurant pasta, at this point, it is our consistent requirements, 13:45, the food is empty, in urgent need of immediate restocking.


Dongwu Noodle Restaurant, the second one we went to in Suzhou, zhang, ping and I insisted on Su-style noodles, but ting was somewhat flexible. We could also try wontons, plus Xiaolong soup buns. We were hungry, not choosy, and the entrance was all food.



After the food, is to walk the street, many visits to the old city of Suzhou zhang, volunteered to lead the way, the excitement caused, full of confidence, is to lead the way to Beihao lane, a protected building, the former residence of dance artist Wu Xiaobang.


No, it's not our food. It's our food. It's on Shantang Street! It is fortunate that we hit the south wall and know to go back, after Starbucks, and then take a few steps, a straight waterway, we have seen the Shantang River, presented in front of us, it does not need to remind it, one side is Shantang Street.


We gradually enter from the east gate of Shantang Street, from the beginning of the imperial Pavilion, to the end of the Songhe building, seven Li Shantang, we walked through only three or four hundred meters of old street, but it is enough, this is the most popular place of second-class wealth and elegance, concentrating the essence of the entire Shantang Street.



Under the bridge, is the imperial stele pavilion, the so-called imperial stele, is a Qianlong seven under the south of a certain time, Fu Bixing outside the imperial pen retained "Shan Tang win", pavilion function is single, only serve the imperial stele, not to stop for rest.


After the pavilion, the new and old businesses on the prosperous side of Shantang Street are spread out, satisfying the taste of ice cream with poetic memory, Jiangnan ship's osmanthus cake, Dongwu Zhangji's snow cake, Fox's sour buttermilk, Su Noodle Shop's Su style noodles, and Songhe Lou's squirrel Mandarin fish; Love material desire, there are Wu Yun silk silk and silk, Xie Fuchun beauty cosmeceuticals, Youlan hand gifts, Jubao Tang antique play.



We put the top of the highest bridge, under the warm sun, in the red dust, the ancient stage in front, echoed a song "bridge girl" beautiful female voice, we put the Shantang Street in the heart.


By the way to research the current predecessor of the Shantang River Shantang Street, which is Bai Juyi's Suzhou governor on the dredging, the river is the main, the street is with the street, no wonder the seven Li Shantang, the opening is Tang Shaofu white Temple. Bai Juyi's relationship with Hangzhou, as we all know, Bai Juyi's achievements in Suzhou, until now only a little, really too late, really sorry. Heaven on earth, the most memorable Suzhou and Hangzhou, if without Bai Juyi's unprecedented, this paradise is nothing!


For Shantang Street, ting feels like being in Shanghai's Seven treasures, only without the overwhelming zongzi and tied hoof. In fact, we swim in the mountain pond is not the best time, only when the night comes, the lights of thousands of homes can reach the best of the seven Li mountain pond.


zhang later said that the Yuhan Hall under the Tonggui Bridge has the True Fun Garden, a perfect place for afternoon tea. Why didn't you say so? But when I saw your tired faces, there was no explanation.


At 15:00, as we returned to the parking lot of the Celestial Street, I wondered whether it would be better for us to drink the tea Hundred way, ping, ting and zhang, or to bring our own costa Mellow latte.


I got in a cup of latte, I was bored, and then drove to the Wyndham Garden Hotel on Ganjiang Road East.



Watch it! An old man a bunt, in front of Chang men blatantly, while salivating, while diagonally across the road, we slowed down, but for the old man in Suzhou, heart, geng, really a thorn in the throat.



Our car track, Changxu Road - Xizhong City - Zhongjie Road (Foster Lane) - Ganjiang West Road (Ganjiang East Road), 15:30, successfully arrived at the hotel, a brief stop in the lobby, check in. At 16:00, he was resting in his bed.


As of today, Baodai Bridge - Fengqiao, Hanshan Temple - Shantang Street, we have completely walked through, ping said, this is Hao go, gambling is physical strength! The original plan of Suzhou trip should be relaxed and comfortable, but the result is the opposite.


I have read Akutagawa Ryunosuke's travels in China, in which there is a chapter recording the donkey journey in Suzhou, which is also the same, and the general unbearable drive is even worse. They drove out the North Temple Pagoda, the Xuanmiao Temple, the Confucius Temple, and later Tianping and Lingyan, the Maple Bridge and the Tiger Hill. Village pine top wind tour is relaxed, wrote two days of travel notes to Suzhou, from Shanghai, Yangcheng Lake, Suzhou, train all the way. Quiet as Suzhou, must be outside the city, when the garden tiger hill, even dizzy to vomit. Changed the waterway, two or three women's shallow drinking and singing, became a brothel other house flowers smelt. Smelt you everywhere, see the flower kui, like medical treatment, all kinds of dizziness headache, immediately disappeared. After the lion forest the next day, the Humble Administrator's Garden, the wind is light and the clouds are light, and the pain point is no longer there. Tanizaki Runichiro is a change of the first two of the style, four days of travel, love only the third day, Tanizaki Jun is reading no Mosaic of the whole "Cut light New words", taking a boat out Chang men to Tianping, to Tiger Hill, to Hanshan Temple, seeing the scenery of Suzhou, in the end thought of is the landscape of Japan, but there is no lack of Mandarin ducks and butterflies poetry.


These are all remembered by the Suzhou tour of other people's homes a hundred years ago, like illustrations, hurried and leisurely, and we must see today after comparison.


17:30, the four of us agreed to the nearest Guanqian Street, on the way also have scenery, one:


Hotel not far from the Ganjiang Road, road central isolation belt stands a archway, inscribed on the plaque "sentence Wu Shenye", what stalk? Who can speak Wen Jie Zi? No one can understand the scene, Baidu interpretation at that time: "Sentence Wu Shen ye" is Mr. Qian Zhong Lian inscription, hook sentence two words of literary borrow, Gou Wu is the ancient name of Suzhou, Suzhou in the Spring and Autumn period is the territory of Wu, Suzhou culture is also known as Wu culture. Shen Ye is to praise the master of the Ganjiang sword-making skills.



Second:


Corner Palace Lane, a Christian church, the gate to the west, milk yellow walls, three facade, the middle of the arch, the triangular lintels with the Christian cross, the church does not have the traditional sense of the spire, the ear chamber symbolic slightly protrude, the structure is symmetrical, is the simplest Basilica style, the church was built in the Qing Guangxu 23 years (1897), It was expanded in 1921 by the Christian Supervision Association of the United States.



To the third scenic spot, Xuanmiao Temple, is already in the center of Guanqian Street, before the east-west cross Street, east of the Bifeng Fang, we pay attention to Zhu Hongxing noodle restaurant, Chuan Fu Lou old kitchen; West eunuch, we remember the pine crane floor, the moon floor.



A bunch of greediness old bah, people bustling, open a Yin, people are not shopping, is to see the scenery, and we just want to eat and drink, down are some restaurants. Dinner is still early, or continue to Guanqian Street, from west to east, and then from east to west.


Huang Tianyuan cake has been sold out, Lu draft recommended sauce meat and people buy; Mining Zhi Zhai, we saw many years ago crispy zongzi sugar, thirty thousand Chang, we think of is Biluochun why is there no West Lake Longjing good to sell?



There are foot SPA, there are KTV quantity vendors, there are pegging dogs and cats pet pavilion, and the convenience of storytelling Pingtan Guangyu book hall, Guanqian Street, can provide all the daily needs, we look at the watch, 18:00, at the moment we need, is the Song crane floor dinner, go to restaurants!



We took the elevator to the lobby on the second floor. Although the guests were isolated, the table we sat at was also partied and there was less noise. Read the menu menu, the hotel mainly push squirrel mandarin fish, point; Crab bean curd, point; Braised broccoli. I got it. Cold dishes, points two, misty rain Jiangnan roast bamboo shoots, Jiangnan courtyard drunk three spell. Rice noodles, Kaiyang hand-mixed noodles, white rice, and Tsingtao beer.


Tea, Pu 'er of ancient tree, zhang's own, we have a cup of hands, dispel the heat, calm the heart fire, the future is a banquet to eat.


Squirrel Mandarin fish, the chef in the side of the plate, shape, gently mixed tomato sauce, dripped in the mandarin fish, then added accessories pine nuts, shrimp, the focus is the last of the emerald-like preserves, let us see the squirrel mandarin fish, good! Worth cheering, this very ceremonial sense of the beginning, is better than the gold medal of Jiangnan elegant chef, really worthy of the century-old store.


Squirrel Mandarin fish, we do not consciously compete with Jiangnan elegant kitchen, the crab powder tofu will be on the table, we naturally compared Wu Yue Rongji, the same ingredients, the same season season, Songhe floor out of the pot is full of smooth mouth, full mouth fat, visual fullness, taste of fat, this is not Wu Yue Rongji a network of red can compare, Su help food the most exquisite color and flavor, It needs a time-honored brand like Songhe Lou to inherit and control.


Even if you can't drink, eat to the temperament, no more wine is not enough, then come on a bottle, full, until full, it is at 20:00, there is a little time, we can go to the neighboring Pingjiang Road to walk around.



Lindun Road naturally separates Guanqian Street and Pingjiang Road, we cross Lindun Road, along the Pingjiang historic district of an alley Xiaojia lane, groping towards Pingjiang Road.


A graffiti wall, named Deer Gallery, a beautiful landscape, which is the addition of the old alley, thus mottling the old trees and new branches on the wall, a new look. A modern nameplate, marked is the city God temple of Yuan and county, known as the underworld Yamen, look at a glance, inside the dark caverns, is scary.



We missed the Taoran tea house, we let the monster charge (food halberd), only in the Ruolan Qipao, a little stop, in front of a flat beam pavilion bridge, snow cake bridge, once across the river, the opposite side of the straight street is Pingjiang Road.


Xiao Jia lane gradually away, it is Maozi, cool cool, later is the Pingjiang road thing.



We look to the north, here is the tourist center, countless heads, frequented by restaurants and shops. Nine screens, full screen display of Hanfu Qipao, full of Chinese style; Leaning on the wind hall, the main aromatherapy essential oil, after the provocative can ask tea riverside. Haner Hotel, always welcome to send, a spell to the appearance of the level of the post, the temporary home of travelers. Opposite the water bank, the light show honestly hung on the wall: flowers on the stranger night incense, spring is safe for the flower busy, blurred light and shadow, ambiguous language, create the atmosphere, are all things, remind people of busy Tanizaki Runichiro.



After the north look is the south, we successively encountered the Dingtai fresh food on the bite, the Suzhou Pingtan of the original Lingyun Club, the teahouse of the Waterfront station, attracting many tea guests, the Mingtang Youth Hostel, attracting many travelers from all over the world, forming a diverse human small society, some people visit, not many, some go away, not many.



In my mind, the Suzhou here should be the small bridge running water in the spring breeze, the pink beauty behind the cloudy summer sun, the patterned paper umbrellas in the alleys prepared for the autumn rain, and the storytelling and Pingtan of the libraries and other schools after the snow.


A small bridge Shouan Bridge came as expected, connecting the opposite old Liyanjia lane, go left or go right? We adhere to the established straight path, the path, there was once the white moonlight cat empty bookstore.


Cat empty, the top of the cardamom, in the mood for love, from the rhyme to the rhyme, we encounter many, Shanghai University Road cat empty, Shanghai World Expo Avenue cat empty, Xitang burn Hong Kong cat empty, Suzhou Xinyu Eslite bookstore cat empty, the current old city Pingjiang Road cat empty, we seem to trace the source, find the cat empty first year.


A drift bottle, a page of postcards, is to the future of me; A cup of coffee, a book, is for the present me; We are no longer young, youth is fleeting, but the company of youth can be eternal.



My lens, a record of the cat's empty space time.


ping, ting and zhang, bookstore visited, then resting on the street near the river, I stood on the other side, the sound of the commentary is broken, leaving a photo, a small bookstore, a big energy, in the photo in addition to the surging of bright matter dark matter, and my dear, my love!



Pingjiang Road near Ganjiang East Road, we met another small bridge Sipo bridge, standing behind a pink beauty, lotus words, red lips, about colorful, a cheongsam, graceful, which is both the brand, but also taste, all over the street drunk three thousand people, do not quit to do Gusu people.



My lens, left to the opposite bank is not much, sorted out a summary, see the picture:



Time is not early, 20:45, we are at Ganjiang East Road Pingjiang intersection, waiting for a taxi, 21:00, back to the hotel, told, tomorrow morning, they went back to their rooms to rest.



2021.7.27



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