The green mountains have been dreamed of many times in history, and Wu Qifeng and the indigenous people have been enlightened.
The charm of book collection lies in every season when winter is approaching. At this time, these soft jade fats are covered with light yellow soup, just like those pages that record the history of book collection. Yes, to say that book-collecting mutton became a famous dish, it can be pushed back to the early years of the Southern Song Dynasty. At that time, the Song court stipulated that only book-collecting mutton was eaten in royal meals.
It is so valuable because it is located in the library collection area in the western suburbs of Suzhou, with rolling mountains, rich vegetation, and a unique natural ecological environment for raising sheep. Goats climbing have unparalleled quality in their meat quality. As early as the Ming and Qing Dynasties, farmers at the foot of Qionglong Mountain had the custom of killing sheep, burning mutton, and selling mutton.
"Compendium of Materia Medica" includes:"Mutton warms the middle and supplements deficiency, appetites and strengthens strength, and enriches kidney qi; nourishes the liver and improves eyesight, strengthens the spleen and stomach, nourishes the lungs and helps qi, and stops asthma." Modern medical research has proved that eating mutton frequently in winter can increase the body's digestive enzymes, protect the stomach wall, help digestion, repair gastric mucosa, and have anti-aging and skin care effects. Frequent consumption of mutton has a good therapeutic effect on deficiency and cold diseases such as tuberculosis, tracheitis, asthma, postpartum deficiency of both qi and blood, and soreness of waist and knees.
It is said that Fuchai, King of Wu of the State of Wu, placed the beautiful beauty Xi Shi in Lingyan Mountain in Mudu. One day, Xi Shi suddenly found out from the well that his face was a little yellow, so he cried and became crazy. Fu Chai, the king of Wu, was so anxious that he could tear a piece of light from the moon and stick it to the beauty's face. A minister surnamed Li thought of the benefits of sheep fat and goat's milk being a "white face", so he immediately sent someone to a nearby library mutton shop to pour a large pot of sheep soup and asked Xi Shi to use it to whiten his cheeks and jade fingers. A few days later, the beauty's face lit up. As a result, the book of mutton, as a national treasure of the State of Wu, began to prosper from that time.
There is a unique thing about the mutton cooked by the book collector, which is that the mutton is cooked in a wooden barrel pot, and the taste is particularly delicious.
History reached the middle of the Qing Dynasty. Among the hard-working and intelligent book collectors, a couple named Ma 'an and Wang Fumei went to the city to carry loads and sell mutton. According to historical records, the couple later opened a sheep shop on the edge of the Qianwanli Bridge, which was known as white as cream and became famous. Among the many book-collecting mutton shops opened in the city, Ma 'an, Wang Fumei's son Ma Shuicai, and his daughter-in-law Ma Genbao, Ma Ji Jianfeng Mutton Shop has a good reputation.
During the Republic of China, the number of "sheep shops" opened in cities gradually increased, and well-known shops such as "Laoyuanxing" and "Xindehe" were opened in many places such as Daoqian Street and Loumenttang. After the victory of the Anti-Japanese War, Shanrenqiao also opened the town's first sheep shop-Shengli Mutton Shop. In the early days of the founding of the People's Republic of China, they were still self-employed. After being communed, they were organized and operated by brigades. More than 10 collective mutton shops were opened in the prosperous commercial district of Suzhou. The shops were generally located along the street, without regard to pomp. The stove was erected in the storefront, and the aroma spread to the neighborhood, attracting many diners. Among them, the shops owned by Ma Haigen and Ma Yunmei, the grandchildren and daughters-in-law of the Ma family, were the most popular ones."The eyebrows with fresh books of mutton fall off" have become a tribute to many people in Suzhou. This is because of the cooking method passed down from generation to generation by the Ma family's book mutton secret recipe.
In 1978, before and after the reform and opening up, Ma Haigen and his son Ma Jianlong opened the first mutton shop at No. 2 Cuifangqiao East Street, Mudu Ancient Town, Suzhou City. This was the first individual book-collecting mutton shop to enter Suzhou City at that time; In 1980, Mr. Ma Jianlong, who had an entrepreneurial spirit and loved book-collecting mutton culture, opened a second shop at No. 8 Changxi Road. Later, he developed five branches in Fenghuang Street, Panmen, Shilu, Guanqian Street Gongyuan, and Wuque Bridge.
Ma Ji is a search for the unknown and a demonstration of the results. It requires accumulation, inheritance, and skills. Diners who are familiar with Ma Ji Mutton affectionately call it Ma Jianfeng Mutton. The life process of any species in the world is exactly the same. The difference between Ma Jianfeng mutton is the inheritance and innovation of traditional recipes. For the cause of collecting mutton books, Mr. Ma Jianlong once expressed his understanding of collecting mutton books like this: "Mutton is more important than my life. It is my life." What is gratifying is that when all mutton shops are familiar and when many cities are similar, Ma Jianfeng Mutton still tells the story of his deep-rooted roots and his timely emergence. Mr. Ma Jianlong, full of historical and cultural feelings and carrying ancestral secret recipes, has Mudu as his main store and opened 6 more branches in Mudu and Suzhou City.
From 2002 to 2012, with the great attention and care of the Wuzhong District Party Committee and the District Government, the connotation and extension of the book-collecting mutton food culture continued to expand, and the development of the book-collecting sheep industry showed a rapid development trend. The "Book Collection Mutton Whole Sheep Banquet" has also been included in food classics such as "Chinese Suzhou Cuisine" and "Chinese Famous Dishes Grand Ceremony". With the leapfrog development of Suzhou Taihu National Tourism Resort, Ma Jianfeng Mutton Shop will once again shine at the Taihu Passenger Center in 2023.
Ma Jianfeng mutton has gradually formed a unique mutton food culture with its unique cooking skills.
Ma Jianfeng's mutton is made of goats that are raised and climbing. The biggest processing feature is that it can remove the fishy smell that makes people's nose cover. He uses live slaughtered goats as raw materials, and uses white-roasted mutton, mutton soup, sheep cake and braised mutton as the main varieties. He uses traditional and unique cooking techniques to cook it. The white-roasted soup is milky white in color, has a rich aroma, and the meat is crispy but not rotten. It tastes fresh but not greasy, and is famous for never getting tired of eating it frequently. He has also launched a special series of dishes such as the "Whole Sheep Banquet". There are more than 30 varieties, divided into cold pots, hot stir-fried, barbecue, soups, snacks, etc. When cooking, only add salt and no auxiliary materials. Cut a sheep body into 4-6 large pieces, bring to the boil, then skim off the floating foam to "water", place it in clear water to wash, and then remove the sediment at the bottom of the pot. Then put the mutton into the pot and place it in the original soup. Cook over high heat for more than 3 hours. During this period, the high, medium and low heat must be properly controlled. When the meat is rotten and the soup is thick, remove the bones from the pot and place it in a special square or round basin.
The sheep cake of Ma Jianfeng Mutton also has a classic reputation. In the Urban area of Suzhou,"Come and buy the library sheep cake" refers to the sheep cake of Ma Jianfeng Mutton Shop.
After a night of braising mutton, Ma Jianfeng's mutton soup has a flawless white color and a delicate taste. People in the city call it "even if you slap in the face". This has customers in every branch. Interpretation.
The mulberry forests are colorful, the countryside is quiet, the stone bridge is still there, and the paths are secluded. This is the unique beauty of an ancient city in the south of the Yangtze River! Yes, the growth of any kind of scenery cannot be separated from the protection of the environment. Ma Jianfeng Mutton is successful because he has the high orchids in the sky and the peace and beauty of this world! (Zhu Haiming)
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