Suzhou Travel Notes| Listen carefully to Wu Nong's soft words and dream back to Suzhou
UP ChinaTravel
2024-07-31 19:19:07
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They say,"There is heaven above, and Suzhou and Hangzhou below." I have seen the beauty of Hangzhou many times, but I have never been to Suzhou.


I have long heard of Suzhou's pink walls and black tiles, small bridges and flowing water, and bluestone ancient alleys, all of which demonstrate its charm. There are embroiderers quietly embroidering in the workshop, and boatwomen singing in the clear water. These are not found in other places.


So I made up my mind to spend this weekend in Suzhou!


Because it was a temporary idea and lacked knowledge of the city of Suzhou, I had some concerns hidden in my heart. I was worried that although Suzhou was as famous as Hangzhou, it was actually far away. Unexpectedly, two days and one night of wandering around would make me love for this city.


Share the places where you checked in in the past two days


DAY1:


The first place I went to, I chose Lion Grove.


The main reason is that Pingjiang Road is next to the Lion Grove. It can be said that the essence of Suzhou gardens is the Lion Grove, which is a complete collection and more exquisite.


Having seen Heyuan Geyuan in Yangzhou and Tongli in Suzhou, as well as some gardens in Zhejiang, I think that the halls, rooms and pavilions of Jiangnan mansions are all similar, and the ones in Lion Grove have not left a special impression.


But that large rockery is steeply lined with various shapes and shapes. Moreover, the winding path between rockery and rockery leads to the secluded world, like a maze. In the Lion Grove, I saw many children playing hide-and-seek in the rockery, like a natural playground.


It is said that every Suzhou person climbed up and down in this "rockery kingdom" during his childhood. This is too happy!

Lion Grove Tickets: 40 yuan
Address: No. 23, Yuanlin Road, Gusu District, Suzhou City

After coming out of Lion Grove, he followed the Gaode map and passed through an alley. Pingjiang Road appeared in front of him.


Pingjiang Road, an old historical street in Suzhou, is also a microcosm of the ancient city of Suzhou. It can be understood as Nanluogu Lane in Beijing, or the ancient city of Lijiang. The things sold by merchants on the street are similar."


It is full of commercial atmosphere and endless flow of people. It has a completely different style from the alley dozens of meters away, and it also shows the tranquility of the alley in the bustle.



In the Pingjiang Road neighborhood, in addition to the main road running from north to south, there are many narrow streets and alleys vertically connected. Looking at the name also makes people think. Xuanqiao Lane, Chuanfang Lane, Donghuaqiao Lane, Dingxiang Lane, Daru Lane, Xiaojia Lane, Niujia Lane, etc., each name may have a long story behind it.


Maybe you push open a wooden door anywhere, and behind it is a private garden.


After wandering alone on Pingjiang Road in Suzhou for a day, walking was still quite tiring, so I sat for a while in the famous Cat Sky City on this road.



Although it is a bookstore, the desserts are not bad and are very satisfactory.


While eating desserts, I found that there was a guestbook on every table, which was filled with messages from all over the world, especially some young painters hidden in the people, whose works were really eye-opening. There are many kinds of messages, affectionate, cool, humorous, and hopeful... I suddenly feel that this world is really wonderful. Even if we are not in the same place, I can feel you. Looking through the different messages, I really felt that it was great to come out and see the world.


Pingjiang Road Tickets: No

Address: No. 65 Baita East Road, Gusu District, Suzhou City


DAY2:


When you come to Suzhou, you will often hear the confused local dialect-Suzhou dialect in the streets and alleys. Although I don't understand it, Suzhou dialect sounds very charming. Suzhou dialect originated from ancient Wu dialect and was mixed with many ancient Chinese. Its pronunciation was crisp, short and full of rhythm. Even Suzhou people quarreled would not make people feel particularly stiff and awkward.


I was lucky to accidentally pass by a sacred place where I listened to Kunqu Opera.


Shen Deqian's former residence, an ancient house hidden in an alley, heard from the staff that Mr. Shen Deqian was the teacher of Emperor Qianlong. Every time Qianlong went to Jiangnan, he almost always asked him to accompany him. The former residence, which originally had seven jin, now only three jin, is retained. A sign at the entrance reads Suzhou Kunqu Opera Training Institute.



"When you come to Suzhou, you must listen to Kunqu Opera." I wanted to visit the Master of Online Garden first and see if I had time to listen to the opera. Unexpectedly, after visiting the performance venue first, I was attracted by this two-chair stage style.


It's just that this ticket price is a little expensive for me as a student. It costs 158 yuan per hour for a discount. Fortunately, students can get a discount. I chose to watch "The Lion's Roar·Kneeling in the Pool" at 6:30 p.m.. It was really beautiful!

This play is about the scholar Chen Yu, who has a wife Liu Yue 'e who is as fierce as a lioness. Liu Yu found out that Chen Yu was out to drink flower wine and punished him to kneel by the pond. His good friend Su Dongpo was afraid that Chen Yu would be punished, so he went to visit her. Seeing this, he was quite dissatisfied and reasoned with Liu Yu, but was kicked out by Liu Yu.



As soon as Liu Shi was angry, Chen Wei immediately stepped forward and massaged her shoulder. Su Dongpo asked Chen Wei to come over and talk to him several times, but he dared not. This actor showed his wife's fear of being very accurate. As long as Madam Liu shouted, he would be very scared, which was very interesting.


Perhaps I was afraid that we wouldn't be able to understand the lyrics, but there were also subtitle machines on both sides of the stage. The play lasted for nearly an hour. I seemed to have entered the play. Sitting under the stage, I truly felt the joys and sorrows of the people in the play!


When listening to the play, you can completely entrust your worries and let your feelings settle down for the time being. The heart that has been numb by life seems to be awakened. Amid the sound of gongs and drums, all the noise of the world can be easily let go, as if completing a soul journey.

Tickets for the performance of Suzhou Kunqu Opera Academy: 158 per performance (30% off for the elderly and students)

Address: No. 26, Kuojiatou Lane, Daicheng Bridge Road, Suzhou City


Yeyou Wangshi Park


After watching Kunqu Opera, it was getting late. It was only two minutes from the Suzhou Kunqu Opera Training Center to the Net Master Garden. The shops on both sides of the alley were still brightly lit, as if to light the way for tourists.

The Master of Nets Garden is a typical courtyard garden of Suzhou aristocratic families in the Qing Dynasty. It is also the best example of combining residence and garden into one among the existing gardens in Suzhou. In terms of the overall layout of the Master of Nets Park, the main mountains and rivers are concentrated in the middle, which is also the main area for sightseeing and appreciation.



I am used to seeing the tranquility and elegance of Suzhou gardens during the day, while the gardens at night are quiet and colorful. It is said that from mid-March to mid-November every year, the Master of Nets Garden is the only garden that opens night tours. During the entire night tour, you can not only experience the beautiful scenery of the gardens with colorful lights and shadows in the night, but also enjoy various performances such as Kunqu Opera, Pingtan, and silk and bamboo.


I just finished watching the hall version of the zaozi opera, but I didn't expect to enjoy another fold of "A Dream in the Garden" in the Master of Online. The two styles of Kunqu opera are indeed unforgettable.


Du Liniang sang while walking in the garden: "The fine silk blows into the leisurely courtyard, shaking spring like a thread." Spring is blowing curling in, swaying like thin and invisible threads. Only such thin threads winding around the heart can arouse those who are constantly cut, still messy, and strands of worry.


Frankly speaking, the performance level of the actors is very average (I can tell by any non-professional person). Because there are too many people during the summer vacation, the fatigue on the actors 'faces cannot be concealed, and the performance is also suspected of being fooled. The ticket price of as high as 100 yuan makes people feel a little lost.

However, night tours are still worth recommending. When night falls and walking in the exquisite gardens, I suddenly hear "It turns out that colorful flowers are blooming all over the place, as if everything is ruined by the broken wells. The beautiful scenery on a good day is nothing to the sky. Who cares about it?" It feels like it really feels like traveling through.


Ticket for night tour at Master of Internet Park: 90 yuan
Address: No. 11, Kuojiatou Lane, Daicheng Bridge Road, Suzhou City


recommended food


Yuxingji has always been a leader in noodles in Suzhou. It is said that every summer, Suzhou people come to eat a bowl of Sanshrimp noodles. The entrance of this Yuxingji, which is close to Lindun Road on Metro Line 1, was filled with people early before 12 o'clock.

When the auntie in the store brought it up, she specifically instructed that only add three shrimps on the side dishes and nothing else. The noodle soup is just white soup, ensuring the most delicious taste of the three shrimps. Stir the three shrimps and the fine flour evenly. The shrimps and shrimp brains are also covered with shrimp seeds. The color is bright and the aroma is fragrant, making people salivate.


Yuxingji Noodle Restaurant (Fenghuang Street Store)

No. 39 Dinghui Temple Lane

Monday to Sunday 06:00-14:30 16:30-19:30

Three shrimp noodles: 98 yuan/serving


Jijiaokala, this is an old store located on Pingjiang Road. When I passed by, I found a long line at the door. I once thought it was invited by the merchants. I specially walked to the door of the store and took a look. Unexpectedly, a strong stewed flavor came through inside, which instantly took my soul away.


Each serving of chicken feet is 15 yuan. There are 4 in it, which is very soft and delicious. I wanted to buy one and try it, but later I couldn't help but buy 4. I ate chicken feet in the hotel in the middle of the night while chasing drama... ah, it smells so delicious!




Chicken Foot Gala (Pingjiang Road Store)

No. 2 Zhuchang Lane, Pingjiang Road

Monday to Sunday 08:00-21:00

Signature braised chicken feet: 15 yuan/serving


No matter where I go, my favorite food is local food. When I opened public comments, I saw a Xiehe Restaurant, which is said to be one of the few restaurants in Suzhou that still maintains traditional characteristics. Carved wooden doors and dark red paint make the store look very ordinary.


I ordered a honey sauce recipe, stir-fried green vegetables with mushrooms, stir-fried shrimps and sweet-scented osmanthus sugar lotus roots. The honey sauce recipe is rosy and crystal clear, tastes good, fat but not greasy and thin but not firewood. There is also the white, white and tender shrimps. You can squeeze more than a dozen of them into one spoonful, and your mouth is full of elastic teeth.


This restaurant is highly recommended regardless of taste and price. I found that almost all the tables next door are local people. If the taste is not authentic, how can there be so many local diners?

Xiehe Restaurant (Fenghuang Street Store)

No. 15 Fenghuang Street (Dishang of Shuixian Lane Community)

Monday to Sunday 10:30-14:00 14:30-21:00

Per capita: 102 yuan/person


See you at the next stop

see you at the next stop

This trip to Suzhou cost a total of less than 800 yuan, including round-trip tickets, food, accommodation and tours, but it was not fun because there was not enough time. Since my activities are all in Suzhou's Ancient City, there is no taxi fare.


Suzhou is a city that has given me many surprises. The people I meet are very friendly and the attractions are all beautiful. For a person who grew up in the north, the first time I saw small bridges and flowing water, the first time I saw pink walls and black tiles, and the first time I heard Wu Nong's soft words, in my heart, Jiangnan is Suzhou.

This trip finally realized that "when you come to Gusu to meet, people are sleeping in the river." There is little idle space in the ancient palace and many water alleys and bridges."The artistic conception depicted in the poem is truly unfolding in front of my eyes, and the impact on my heart can be imagined. I always feel that there are still many places I want to visit that I haven't been to, and I always feel that I want to visit again where I have been. I always feel that this is not the last time.

Suzhou, I want to come again ten times.

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