Just after the beginning of autumn, the scorching heat in Beijing has not subsided its hegemony. I made a temporary decision to take my children to the seaside for a few days.

So Xiamen was chosen.

Seaview resort

The hotel we stayed at is called Haiyue Villa. It is located on the east coastline of Xiamen Island, surrounded by forests and facing the sea. It is said that guests stayed here during the BRICS International Conference in 2017.

A few kilometers south of the hotel along the coastline are Zengcuo 'an, Cruise Wharf, Xiamen University and Nanputuo, which are crowded with tourists. The hotel is quiet in the hustle and has an elegant environment.

When Mr. Lu Xun briefly taught at Xiamen University, he wrote to Xu Guangping: "The building is right by the seaside, blown by the sea breeze day and night. There are not many families around, and there is only one store I know of selling canned food and cakes."

A hundred years ago, there was basically nothing on the coast of Xiamen. In addition, Mr. Lu Xun was very unhappy at Xiamen University, so he had no good impression of Xiamen.

Today everything has changed. The hotel is also up, with the same geographical location and completely different situations.

Remove your tiredness and float leisurely in the pool, watching the blue waves rise slightly and the white birds descend leisurely.

Looking up, you can see blue sky and white clouds, and the palm trees are tall and handsome. For a moment, I feel like I don't know where I am.

As we travel through the mountains and through the water, our hearts go to the bank of the sea, and we have a few lanterns at dusk.

Gulangyu

After relaxing the heat brought by Beijing in the infinity swimming pool, we set off for Gulangyu.

I specifically checked the difference between an island and an island-why is it called "Gulangyu" instead of "Gulang Island"?

Islands are often used together."Island" may mean that it is attached to the mainland or around the island and separated from the mainland or island at high tide.

Looking on the map, Gulangyu Island is not large in area and is next to Xiamen Island. It makes sense to use "island" to distinguish it from Xiamen Island.

As for the name "Gulang", it is said that it only existed in the Ming Dynasty. On the southwest beach of the island, there is a large rock, more than two meters high and a cave in the middle. Whenever the high tide surges, the waves hit the reef, and the sound is like the beating of drums. It can be heard on the whole island. People call it "Gulangshi", and Gulangyu Island is named after it.

After arriving on the island, it is natural to trace the roots and find out what happened. It is not difficult to find the stone, and there are not many tourists around. The huge rock lies quietly on the beach, far away from the sea.

I wonder if the high tide will overflow at night? How big a wave does it take to arouse the sound of drums and hammers?

Suddenly I remembered Su Shi's "The Story of Stone Bell Mountain":"It sounds loud on the water, and the sound of the sound is endless like bells and drums. If you look slowly, you will see that there are cracks in stone caves at the foot of the mountain. I don't know how deep they are. When microwaves enter them, the tunnels are faint and surging. When the boat returned to the two mountains, it was about to enter the port. There were large stones flowing in the middle, which could seat a hundred people. The sky was full of holes. It was in harmony with the feng shui, and there was the sound of cram and boring, which corresponded to the direction of the people, like music."

So this Gulangyu Island, given its name, is it similar to Shizhong Mountain?

Walking along the crisscrossing streets of Gulangyu gives me a special feeling.

It was midsummer, but it was not very hot. Everywhere is green trees and dotted with strange flowers. There was no noise of horses and horses along the way, and no one was even seen on a shared bicycle.

Occasionally rickshaws hauling goods pass by, shouting all the way to make pedestrians dodge, making people feel like they have returned to decades ago.

Strolling through the island, you will find all kinds of Western-style and Nanyan-style buildings harmoniously hidden in the green, especially the small building's red tiles and green trees, which is particularly pleasing to the eye.

Walls outside the building distance tourists from the building. Walking a few steps, you can see one or two stone tablets on the wall, telling the vicissitudes of the old building.

From time to time, a few red flowers stick out of the wall, and a faint fragrance overflows, implying to visitors the glory of the wall.

The walls form alleys. Walking in the alley, it seems to have arrived at Jiangnan in my dream.

The ramps go up and down, winding and winding, giving a slight feeling of Chongqing's mountain city. I suddenly understood why there were no bicycles on the island.

When you come to the small square in the heart of the street, or pass the most beautiful corner, you suddenly see a small church, and you feel like you are somewhere in Europe.

If you stop and wander for a while, you will find that the atmosphere of Nanyang culture is everywhere.

All of this, being able to get along so harmoniously, really has no sense of discord.

Wandering on the island, with the characteristic buildings partially covering the pipa and slowly emerging in the green, I couldn't help but think of the Bund along the Huangpu River in Shanghai.

However, the buildings of all countries on the Bund are like an emperor's beauty pageant, lined up in a word formation; the buildings of Gulangyu are like beautiful women scattered throughout the garden, looking out alone with rolling curtains. When viewed from all angles, they all have a unique style.

The feeling of an alley can easily remind people of the rain alleys in the south of the Yangtze River, but it lacks the slimness and sadness of the rain alleys, and adds a little more sunshine and warmth.

If the alleys in the south of the Yangtze River are suitable for walking alone with oil-paper umbrellas on rainy days, then the alleys in Gulangyu are more suitable for lovers to walk hand in hand in the dusk sunset.

No wonder a certain travel photographer used this place as an exterior base. Those pairs of lovers, wearing wedding gowns, all made an appointment with Gulangyu.

Such a garden island is pure and quiet, and the air is fresh. Two lines of Tao Yuanming's poem are on the verge of conversation again: "The knot is in the human realm, but there are no chariots and horses. The mountain atmosphere is good day and night, and the birds return together."

No wonder Gulangyu Island was selected by National Geographic magazine as "the first of the five most beautiful Urban area in China."

If you ask me, Gulangyu is like a romantic piano serenade.

My thoughts travel back more than a hundred years ago. How prosperous should Gulangyu be at that time?

A small island with an area of only 1.78 square kilometers has the reputation of "International Architecture Expo". Behind this reputation is what a microcosm of modern Chinese history.

In the decades after the Opium War, foreign powers swarmed in. Britain, the United States, France, the Netherlands, Norway, and Spain successively established consulates in Xiamen and built consulates in Gulangyu.

Next, a large number of industries such as shipping companies, trading companies, banks, and telegraph bureaus also emerged.

Immediately afterwards, the Anglo-American Church served merchants and established itself in Gulangyu. A group of "sacred path teachings" that train Chinese pastors and preachers, and church schools that promote religion have sprung up like bamboo shoots in Xiamen, especially Gulangyu.

Germany, Japan and other countries are not willing to lag behind and frantically develop their power. Xiamen and Gulangyu fell into the abyss of semi-colonies at that time.

At that time, small Gulangyu Island actually had consulates from 13 countries and dozens of foreign firms.

What a sigh of modern Chinese history. However, the era of great powers that used tricks and plunder has passed away. Now only we tourists come to pay homage to the dance and singing stage of those days.

Zeng CuO an

I didn't dare to pronounce the name "Zeng Cuo 'an" when I first came into contact with it, for fear of misspelling it.

According to colleagues, we eat in Zengcuo 'an and walk in Gulangyu. Later, when I came to Xiamen and went to Gulangyu, I gradually understood the meaning of this name.

On Gulangyu Island, there is a scenic spot called "Neicuo 'ao"; in the milk tea shop, I also saw a sign "Licuo Xiancao Tea" hanging.

It turns out that these "Zeng Cuo and Li Cuo" are similar to what we used to call "Zeng Zhai and Li Mansion". The word "An" seems to be literal and means "peace with land".

Then if "Zeng Cuoan" is called according to the name of Shandong people, it should actually be called "Zeng Jiatun"; when people from Northeast China come, it may be called "Zeng Jiatun"? It seems that when visiting a place, one must first understand some local folk culture, including place names.

It is said that Zengcuo 'an was originally a small fishing village near the sea. In recent years, with the rise of tourism in Xiamen, it has gradually developed into a tourist gathering place, somewhat similar to Beijing's Wangfujing and Shanghai's City God Temple.

No matter day or night, tourists are always crowded with each other. My children and I also came to join in the fun.

Walking into the bustling streets, the air is filled with the smell of sizzling barbecue and seafood, as well as various fruit teas and candies made on-site, with the aroma overflowing.

We strolled for a while and found a restaurant that didn't have many diners. We tasted the local specialty grilled oysters, which were cheap and cheap. The signature ginger duck recommended by the waiter was also very authentic, and the homemade desserts were also good. After eating, the children were basically too busy to walk. Stroll around to relieve digestion.

Many buildings in Zengcuo 'an can clearly see the Nanyang style. At that time, many people traveled to Southeast Asia along the coast of Fujian. After returning, they built a large number of red brick ancient houses and Nanyan-style "Fanzi Buildings", which are still preserved today.

The roofs of the two "entrance" in front of the ancient building are saddle ridges or swallowtail ridges, but the last "entrance" is a "Fanzai Building" with a Nanyang flavor. Today, these houses are gradually being used for commercial purposes. Tourists stroll while walking, which is very interesting.

Even the small shop with gifts on the street, like the gifts on sale, the store is designed exquisitely, Western-style and emotionally. My daughter chose a few small gifts that she liked to give to her friends, and I couldn't help but pick two postcards as souvenirs.

Fujian, like Anhui, Jiangsu and Zhejiang, is also rich in famous teas. Wuyi Mountain Dahongpao is known as the "King of Tea"; Anxi Tieguanyin is also generous, with a fragrance and elegant charm, and unique "viewing rhyme"; there are also well-known Zhengshan Xiaozhong, Jinjunmei, Yongchun bergamot, etc., all famous.

It is said that Xiamen people do not drink tea or sleep at night. When we arrived in Xiamen this time, we did as the Romans did. Naturally, we had to taste the tea and brought a few cans of tea back.

Someone advised me not to buy goods from tourist destinations. I was "willing to fall for it."

Just travel and be happy.

Xiamen University and Xiamen celebrities

In the textbook "China Regional Cultural Relics" compiled by me,"Gulangyu" and "Xiamen University" were selected as keywords in Fujian Province. Gulangyu is also included in our "World Heritage China" textbook. I have already told you to come to Gulangyu, let's talk about Xiamen University.

In the new textbook "Chinese Regional Cultural Relics" I wrote for children,"Gulangyu" and "Xiamen University" were used as the key words for cultural relics in Fujian Province. Gulangyu is also included in the textbook "World Heritage China". We have already talked about Gulangyu before, let's talk about Xiamen University.

"Xiamen University" to Xiamen is just like "Tsinghua Peking University" to Beijing. It is a city business card that Xiamen people are proud of. In particular, I heard that the buildings in Xiamen University are all unique, and even the names are quite particular, such as Lingyun, Yingxue, Nangying Fireflies, Qunxian, Furong, etc.

I have been in love for a long time. I have the opportunity to bring my daughter here this time, so I naturally want to go and experience it, and let the children cultivate the atmosphere of college.

However, unfortunately, due to the epidemic, universities are currently not open to the public, and we can only regretfully "peek at the flowers through the curtain". However, even outside the courtyard walls, we can still feel the grandeur of Xiamen University buildings.

Lu Xun

Xiamen University was founded in the early 1920s by the famous patriotic overseas Chinese Chen Jiageng and has been in existence for a hundred years. On one side of the school is Nanputuo Temple and on the other side is Hulishan Fort. The early buildings of drywall and glazed roof are very distinctive and are known as one of the most beautiful university campuses in China.

But Mr. Lu Xun, who briefly taught at Xiamen University, does not think so.

In his letter to Xu Guangping, Lu Xun described Xiamen University as "forcibly placing a row of foreign-style houses on a deserted island and seaside."

It now seems that there are only a handful of universities in the country that have such a good coastal location and so many characteristic buildings.

Lu Xun's anger came from his unpleasant experience at Xiamen University.

In 1926, the environment in Peking's education community was harsh, and professors often could not get paid. On the other hand, patriotic overseas Chinese Chen Jiageng has entered the heyday of his career and has strong financial resources. He is preparing to establish a first-class academic Xiamen University. The school committee has issued hero invitations and hired famous professors and scholars from Beijing to teach at high salaries.

At that time, more than 20 famous scholars including Lin Yutang, Gu Jiegang, Shen Jianshi, and Sun Fuyuan went south to Xiamen, and almost "half of Peking University" moved to Xiamen University.

At that time, Lu Xun was blacklisted for supporting Beijing Normal University students, and many people in the surrounding teachers also attacked him. The current situation was very unfavorable for him in Peiping.

At that time, Lu Xun and Lin Yutang had a close relationship. Lin Yutang served as general secretary of the Institute of Chinese Studies at Xiamen University. Under the advice of relatives, friends and students, and at the invitation of Mr. Lin Yutang, Lu Xun went to Xiamen to give lectures.

After arriving at Xiamen University, Lu Xun taught courses on the history of Chinese literature and the history of Chinese novels, and also served as a research professor at the National Academy of Sciences. Lu Xun is famous as the spiritual mentor of progressive young people. Every time he attends a class, the classroom is full of people as soon as the bell rings. Students who arrive later can only stand by the window and leaning against the wall to listen to the lecture.

Not only liberal arts students came to attend classes, but also many young faculty members from Xiamen University were present, as well as many off-campus reporters and editors. The scene was spectacular.

However, this situation did not last long. Being ostracized in Peiping, Lu Xun arrived at Xiamen University and found that the atmosphere was still very wrong. This school is also very popular.

Lin Wenqing, the principal at that time, was a Confucian school. He always spoke of Confucius and used the motto of "Be at the highest quality" in "The University" as the school motto and "Everyone is a benevolent gentleman" as the purpose of cultivating students. Lu Xun was quite disgusted with this.

In addition to his disagreement with the principal, Lu Xun also encountered an interpersonal crisis at Xiamen University. There are several "modern commentary" figures in the National Academy who have just come to Xiamen from Beijing to teach. They openly claim that they only admire Hu Shi and Chen Xiying. The representative figure is the historian Gu Jiegang.

These people had many conflicts with Lu Xun in Beijing, but now they follow each other like each other, making Lu Xun unhappy.

Another contradiction is the attitude of university management towards Lu Xun. Xiamen University started out on science, and its funding, school resources, etc. were all tilted towards science. After the rise of the National Academy, nearly half of the research funding was allocated, which made it difficult for Liu Shuqi, the provost and director of the Science Department of Xiamen University, and others to endure.

Therefore, Liu Shuqi took advantage of his financial management and, under the secret instructions of Principal Lin Wenqing, made trouble against Lu Xun and forced Lu Xun to move several times. The last time, he actually allowed Lu Xun to move to the basement of Xiamen University.

It is rumored that Lu Xun had two light bulbs in his room, and Liu Shuqi took off one in the name of saving electricity bills. This incident made Lu Xun furious.

Lu Xun couldn't bear it anymore and finally decided to leave Xiamen University.

Even in such an environment, in less than half a year, Lu Xun still wrote a large number of words at Xiamen University, among which the familiar memoir essays "From Baicao Garden to Sanwei Bookstore" and "Mr. Fujino" have become immortal.

It is now speculated that when Lu Xun first arrived at Xiamen University, the school architecture should still be in the ascendant stage, and his interpersonal relationship was not good, so his memory of Xiamen University is indifferent.

However, Xiamen University is deeply proud of this literary giant.

As a famous literary and artistic figure at that time, Lu Xun was very popular wherever he went, especially among progressive young people. After his death, he enjoyed a lofty status.

Xiamen University later used a word-gathering method to put together the four characters "Xiamen University" in Lu Xun's calligraphy manuscripts as a school card, which was equivalent to Lu Xun's inscription for the university.

Tourists who visit Xiamen University tour guides will exaggerate Lu Xun's inscription. However, these words were interpreted as a kind of unofficial history in the mouth of the tour guide. It was said that Lu Xun wrote two of the four words wrong when writing calligraphy: the word "door" had no dots, and the word "learning" had no cover, implying "there is no end to learning."

This is of course a gimmick used by the tour guide to stimulate tourists 'curiosity. What is wrong with the cursive writing style of calligraphy?

In addition to Lu Xun's handwritten school name hanging high to remind visitors to pay attention to the relationship between Lu Xun and Xiamen University, Xiamen University also built a memorial hall specially for Lu Xun to remember everything left by this great man in Xiamen.

But this time because we couldn't enter the campus, we couldn't pay homage this time. Although I didn't enter the Xiamen University campus as I wished, while I was in Xiamen, I still sorted out the grudge between Lu Xun and Xiamen University.

After saying Lu Xun, he had to bring out another famous person in Xiamen who was proud of-Lin Yutang.

I know Lin Yutang. I first read his novels "Smoke in Beijing" and "The Biography of Su Dongpo". Later, I learned that he had also presided over the compilation of Lin Yutang's Contemporary Chinese-English Dictionary.

When he was in college, the teacher talked about some debates between Lu Xun and literati such as Lin Yutang, Liang Shiqiu, and Hu Shi, and felt that they seemed to be on the opposite side of Lu Xun.

Later, after reading more biographical literature and historical materials, we found that our previous teaching was a little facially oriented.

Lin Yutang

Lin Yutang taught at Xiamen University longer than Lu Xun. Around 1926, he was the director of the School of Liberal Arts and secretary of the School of Chinese Studies at Xiamen University, and also a professor in the Department of Foreign Languages. It was through his recommendation that Lu Xun was invited to Xiamen University.

He later remembered the article "The Death of Lu Xun":"I invited Lu Xun to Xiamen University, but I was chased by my colleagues. When I changed the kitchen in three times, I once saw Lu Xun opening cans and boiling water with ham on a stove. I lost my friendship as a landlord, and Lu Xun never complained about me because Lu Xun knew me."

It can be seen that Lin Yutang and Lu Xun were not as irreconcilable enemies as later generations imagined. Due to Lu Xun's personality relationship, he gradually became estranged, leaving behind rumors that the two had an evil relationship. Later generations even elevated them to representative figures of different camps.

In fact, although they have different views and conflicting articles, the above-mentioned buddies still admire Lu Xun's spicy writing and sharp thoughts.

Due to historical reasons, Lin Yutang's "status" is difficult to compare with Lu Xun. Therefore, at Xiamen University, Lu Xun has a memorial hall, and Lin Yutang is a memorial room. It is said that the scale is much smaller. Fortunately, on the small island of Gulangyu, there is also Lin Yutang's former residence, which is more or less a kind of compensation.

God has made two literary superstars become associated with Xiamen University. Xiamen University is very fortunate and Xiamen is very fortunate.

Xiamen also has a proud local celebrity. Her name is Lin Qiaozhi. She was born in Gulangyu and also went to school in Gulangyu. She studied at the Higher Women's Normal School and is regarded as the "daughter of Gulangyu."

After graduating from normal school, Lin Qiaozhi left Gulangyu to teach at Xiamen Women's Normal School. In 1921, Lin Qiaozhi was admitted to Peking Union Medical University. From then on, she left Gulangyu and Xiamen, and embarked on a life of dedication in Nightingal-style.

Lin Qiaozhi later became the first Chinese director of the Department of Obstetrics and Gynecology at Peking Union Medical College Hospital and the only female academician of the first Chinese Academy of Sciences. She was unmarried and had no children in her life, but she personally delivered more than 50,000 babies. She was honored as the "Mother of Ten Thousand Infants" and the "Angel of Life."

In the spring of 1983, Lin Qiaozhi passed away at Union Medical College Hospital. In her will, she donated her life savings of 30,000 yuan to the hospital, and her ashes were scattered in the sea in her hometown of Gulangyu. The soul of the "Daughter of Gulangyu" returns to Gulangyu.

Lin Qiaozhi was later named one of the 100 people who touched China since the founding of New China. This is also an honor for the people of Gulangyu and Xiamen. There is a Lin Qiaozhi Memorial Hall on Gulangyu Island.

Okay, let's take a quick look and write down some of the glimpses I learned in Xiamen in the past few days. I have a good impression of Xiamen.

Xiamen has a lively soul because these celebrities have walked through it; and these celebrities have also added to the brilliance of humanity because of their affinity with Xiamen. Is this the beauty of beauty, outstanding people and earth?

If you feel that you are still a little closer to happiness, go to Xiamen.

There, flowers bloom all year round; there, you can face the sea.

Zero Level Education--Knowing Not Dad