Although Fujian is close to Guangdong, Cantonese people do not eat "Hu Jian". Due to their highly similar eating habits, Cantonese people still like "Hu Jian"'s Fujian cuisine and seafood. Fujian and the Chaoshan area of eastern Guangdong are connected by land and sea, and transportation is easy to reach. It is extremely convenient to travel by plane, self-driving, and high-speed rail. Relying on this geographical and transportation advantage, in recent years, we have set foot in almost all famous, popular or niche landmarks in Fujian. Can I still play tricks in Fujian during the few days when I can go out during the National Day holiday? The answer is of course yes. As long as you don't suffer from obsessive-compulsive disorder for attractions, give up the deliberate awareness of checking in for sightseeing, and adhere to the mentality of "what you encounter is the best arrangements and what you see is the most beautiful scenery", every trip to Fujian can be a unique and beautiful exotic experience. You can pretend to be in Florida, Santa Barbara, Nice, Cannes... you can also pretend to eat "Hu Jianren", making netizens and seafood who believe in the legends of the Jianghu. Shake.

Fujian Province has a winding and long coastline. The natural conditions are unique and naturally beautiful. The coastal scenery is far better than that of Guangdong. It has countless lesser-known beautiful beaches, islands, bays, and fishing ports. Among them, Dongshan Island, which is closest to Guangdong, hangs like a gnawed leaf in the southeastern corner of Zhangzhou waters. Every gnawed gap is a beautiful bay; on the Liuao Peninsula, there is Jade Bay, which is known as the most beautiful beach on the the mainland of China, which is said to be comparable to the Florida coast of the United States; In Longhai County, Xiamen Bay, a coastal real estate giant that stretches for more than ten kilometers, and the basalt stone pillars in the adjacent Volcanic Ruins Park form a magnificent and beautiful long-axis picture of the coast. Zhangzhou has vast mountains and rivers, lush vegetation, crisscross rivers and lakes, and connected rivers and seas. With the talent and wisdom of relying on mountains to eat mountains and water to draw water, the seafood quality and cooking methods here can completely soothe and conquer the most discerning taste buds of Cantonese people. In the ancient city where the charm still exists, and in the neighborhood shops deep in the alleys, you can still explore the true "ancient morning flavor" of the Fujian and Taiwan region and taste the story of time and time. The weather is not easy for the elderly to get old. We can set off as soon as we say, and this is the beginning of this trip to Zhangzhou in the Fujian Region...

The tempting Zhangpu sweet potatoes provide the title material for this travel note: "Picking potatoes under the east fence, leisurely walking around Zhangzhou."

Dongshan Island ~ Pretend to be in Santa Barbara

As a beautiful gap on the tree-leaf map of Dongshan Island, Maluan Bay is a rare free beach. It is said that overcrowding is the norm in summer. It has a blue and pure sea surface and ocher soft sandy beach, providing a broad range of rides, such as sailing, motorboats, surfing, beach volleyball and fishing. On the morning of National Day, I arrived here at the first stop in Zhangzhou, Fujian. There are already many tourists participating in various water sports early in the morning. The entire beach is filled with the smell of hormones and dopamine, exuding vitality and joy wantonly. In this situation, try to fool your brain with your eyes: pretend to be on Santa Barbara Beach, California, and the comfort and joy you get may be doubled...

There are many bays, large and small, on Dongshan Island. It is said that there is an old fishing port and dock in Wujiao Bay. So he left Maluan Bay and drove there. Various road repairs along the way constantly teased the voice navigation. After many twists and turns, he finally reached the old dock of the fishery port. At noon, the scorching sun is like a scorching sun. Fisherwomen still in traditional costumes are working hard in the seaweed rack, and the fishing boats anchored on the shore are still unloading their catches and loading up with supplies. This is quite similar to the fishing port we saw in Xiapu. However, the windmills in the distance of the bay declare what it is different here...

The new season's "Toushui" laver in Liuao is in the harvest season. It is said that the laver in Toushui is of the best quality and has first-class taste and nutritional value (Du Niang Kopu: The laver that grows for the first time is harvested for the first time is called Toushui laver, and the latter ones are called Ershui, Sanshui, and Sishui. The quality and taste are degraded in turn). In addition to roasting and frying seaweed, it can also be used to make soup, fried seaweed meatballs, fried rice, etc. The same ingredients can be given a more authentic cooking interpretation in the hands of coastal people. It was the first time I ate seaweed and seafood fried rice for lunch. My taste buds were easily conquered by it, and everyone was full of it. In the lens, the close-up view is of the drying racks on the dock beach that have just been harvested, and the deep view is of the windmills winding along the bay.

Under the scorching sun at noon, the fisherman girl is still working hard.

When you come to a fishing village, eating a seafood meal is an indispensable step. The freshness and delicacy of Zhangzhou seafood began with this fisherman's restaurant located near the dock and hidden in the fields that her daughter found online. Most of the people who came for dinner were local regular customers on the island. Our arrival seemed a bit abrupt. With the help of the enthusiastic landlady, we ordered some seasonal seafood home-cooked dishes that they recommended and were famous: steamed and decorated with "clear water and water hibiscus, naturally carved" beautiful crabs; freshly fished and cooked pork skin shrimp (rice urine shrimp) with a charming figure and pink face; There are also various unknown chilled sea fish. After the chef cooked it in a pot with garlic sprouts, local bean paste, chicken soup and sesame oil, the aroma is mellow and strong. Coupled with enough seaweed and clams fried rice, it makes people feel hungry. The chopsticks can't stop until the bottom of the pot is turned upside down...

In the next few days after my trip to Zhangzhou, the seafood we ate in restaurants of different places and grades were all touching and of first-class quality and affordable to the people. I deeply realized the happy daily life of the people of Zhangzhou, which can be summarized with the highest comments in the Cantonese vernacular: "Flat, beautiful and upright."

Liuao Peninsula~ Pretend to be in Florida

Liuao, located in Zhangpu County in the south of Zhangzhou, is a peninsula around the sea that is only 5 kilometers wide and no more than 14 kilometers long. Here, you can enjoy two completely different landscapes: the historical ancient city and the coastal beach. The ancient city of Liuao has the Guandi Temple, which reflects the culture of the Central Plains, and the Tianhou Palace, which reflects the culture of the Central Plains. It is said that the belief of Guandi introduced from the Central Plains since the Tang Dynasty has been passed down here for thousands of years, and the Mazu belief prevalent among the people of Fujian and Guangdong has also been equally long. The harmonious coexistence of the two continues to this day, and the incense is equally strong. The "Shanxi Master" and the Tianhou Goddess have joined hands to protect the fishing and farming people who have thrived here for generations. On the island there is Jade Bay, which is known as the most beautiful beach in the mainland of China. It is said to be comparable to the Florida coast of America.

People by the sea believe in gods, and all kinds of small temples and shrines are common in the streets and alleys. They are simple but solemn.

After leaving Liuao Ancient City, drive to the nearby abstract rock painting group (names that are easy to create romantic fantasies and brainstorming). It was already 5 o'clock at sunset when we arrived. It was getting late and less than an hour before the scenic area closed. After studying the location, I judged that I couldn't see the sunset on the beach here. After a while of struggle, I decided to travel along the coastal road next to me. In the distance, there was a faint red sky, beautiful beaches and chic windmills. It is said that the seaside rock painting group here was not a ringed attraction before, and there was no need to collect tickets. In the past two years, tourism resources have been integrated to give this bay a beautiful name "Longmei Bay" and "built" into a tourist area and started charging fees.

Driving along the seaside path to an unknown bay, the setting sun reflected the sea and sky red, and the beach under your feet red. The warm sea breeze from the Pacific Ocean quickly swept across your face, lifting up your long hair and blowing away your straw hat. Under the protection of windbreaks on the shore, oysters are cultivated offshore, and huge windmills are arranged in the open area. This is a countryside that has not been deliberately "built" deep in the boudoir and is unknown. Its beauty is reserved for people who are interested. Come explore and enjoy it. The sky in the distance gradually turned from light red to deep red and finally returned to darkness and silence. The dazzling sunset and sea level could not be seen on the east-facing coastline. However, CCTV did not discover and capture the interesting pictures of "Big Windmill" and "Sunset Red", but we saw it.

Driving north from Liuao Peninsula to Zhangpu County to stay, large tracts of sweet potatoes are planted on the sandy land on both sides of the road. This is the famous Zhangpu sweet potato. A few years ago, I had eaten this kind of pure sandy red honey potato that my friend brought back from Liuao, Zhangpu. It tasted sweet and pink. This time I came to Zhangpu, I wanted to buy some back.

When I drove into the Liuao Peninsula in the afternoon, I had just turned into the main road of the peninsula and saw that both sides of the road were densely planted potato fields and stalls selling honey potatoes. Before he stopped and landed steadily, a white-haired old couple rushed over, carrying three large bags in their hands. They said they were home-grown sweet potatoes and wanted to sell them out and go home as soon as possible. I couldn't bear to live up to the old man's expectant eyes. Without hesitation, I took all three bags of sweet potatoes and put them into the trunk. The bags were not opened and checked. Fortunately, it saved the time of going to various stalls to compare. Continue driving towards the seaside at the southern end of the peninsula. Potato fields and stalls on both sides of the road stretch endlessly, estimated to be about 10 kilometers long.

After driving home, he gave the sweet potatoes he brought back from Zhangpu to his friends to share. They all praised them and sent their own sweet potato shows. The most literary comment is "A brother came back from driving and gave me Zhangpu sweet potatoes, but the ordinary thing is unusual: its taste cannot be summarized with just one word" sweet ". It is fragrant, soft, waxy, tender, smooth, and loose sand... the words are exhausted."

Baitang Bay ~ Pretend to be in Hawaii

Baitang Bay is an ancient crater coastal tourist area in Zhangzhou, located in the southeast of Longhai County. We were originally driving to Zhenjiao, but before we reached the fork in the peninsula, we were forced to stop by traffic jams. The roadside on the sea side was filled with vehicles with license plates from all over Fujian. It seems that the quiet seaside area, which usually few people pay attention to, is still conquered by the surrounding people and traffic during the National Day Golden Week. We went with everything we had, so we gave up the original intention of going to Zhenhai Corner to see the sunset in the East China Sea, and found a place to park and walk in the direction of the sea. In disguise, we knew that it was a blessing. Here we met the beautiful Baitang Bay, that is, the coastal real estate giant "Xiamen Bay" stretching for more than ten kilometers.

Xiamen Bay has also integrated the Volcano Geopark, but you need to buy tickets to enter. We spent a long time in the amazingly large and magnificent sales department and model room, and it was already past 4 o'clock in the afternoon when we entered the park.

While blowing the sea breeze and listening to the sound of the waves, walking barefoot on the beach, I feel very lazy and comfortable. We sat idly on a rock on a reef, drinking beer and chatting, waiting for the drunken sunset to come.

There are 1.4 million stone pillar basalts on Nanding Island in the Volcanic Geopark, which is the largest and dense basalt stone pillar group known in the world. The picture below is a photo of the basalt stone pillar group originating from the Internet.

Climbing on both hands and feet, we can get into close contact with the columnar volcanic rocks known as the undersea terracotta warriors, and record the embarrassing gestures of dancing barefoot crossing the rocks in the waves.

Old streets in southern Fujian ~Pretending to be in the Republic of China

Wandering in the ancient city of Zhangzhou, the architectural style here is intact, making people feel like they have returned to the early years of the Republic of China; and the traditional old shops and cultural customs in the ancient streets and alleys make people feel like they have returned to thirty or forty years ago. Perhaps it is due to the temporary lag in the level of economic development that it can maintain its regional characteristics, retain basically intact ancient streets, ancient alleys, and ancient houses, and maintain a living and vibrant ancient city.

This "Biotechnology Products Exhibition Hall" is very down-to-earth.

There was a long line at the entrance of this handmade masi shop, and we joined in with the crowd. The taste was really worthy of the waiting time.

Snow White and the seven little immortals, traditional handicrafts can also keep pace with the times.

A bamboo weaving shop that was common when I was a child can rarely be seen here.

The main structure of the ancient city during the Ming and Qing Dynasties is still basically intact. There are Confucian temples, yamen, archways, and old neighborhoods. The eye-catching red courtyard walls of the Confucian Temple are adjacent to Zhongshan Park in the north, and the main entrance faces Mochi Street in the south.

The imposing Paifang Street

The ancient city of Zhangzhou was once an important node on the "Silk Road on the Sea". Now there are many Nanyan-style arcade buildings such as pharmacies, pawnshops, restaurants, and grocery stores. They still maintain their original appearance, as if time has stayed in the past. A moment is never far away.

Entertainment and faith coexist harmoniously. The first floor of the Catholic Church is actually a movie theater. It is interesting and reasonable: they are all places to wash and educate souls. How about changing the name of this "Earth Cinema" to "Paradise Cinema"?

We did not leave in a hurry after visiting Zhangzhou's unfashionable urban area and visiting the scenic spots. Instead, we settled in Zhangzhou at peace, starting with a bowl of braised noodles in the morning, and then leisurely squandered our time in the ordinary streets of the ancient city. In the evening, we returned to a high-quality and low-cost high-quality hotel to comfortably end the day's leisure time.

Zhangzhou's braised noodles have a long reputation. A bowl of authentic braised noodles needs to be made with mushrooms, shredded pork, seafood, and broth. When eating, sprinkle with leeks, bean sprouts, pepper, fried diced garlic and other seasonings, and you can also add ingredients such as stewed intestines, braised pork, duck blood, and fried dough sticks.

Nowadays, the taste of Zhangzhou Old Street may be fading away. Fortunately, what remains constant is the taste on the tip of the tongue.

It seems that the ancient city is embedding creative and leisure industries such as cafes, bars, and art studios in order to coordinate with the renovation of residential buildings. It has learned too much from the past, and I can't help but feel worried that it will not become another vulgar fake antique that is over-developed and over-tourism commercialization in the future.

The most complacent and ingenious itinerary this time was to choose to stay at the Guesthouse in Zhangzhou Development Zone, facing Gulangyu Island and Xiamen Island across the sea. A 5-minute walk and take a ferry to the adjacent Zhangzhou Port Terminal. It takes 20 minutes to reach the core area of Xiamen. You can easily complete a one-day trip to Lucheng by leaving early and returning late. It is quite interesting to lean on the railing on the ferry to look at the city along the sea.

In the past, I have come to Xiamen many times by plane, high-speed rail or self-driving. This time, after pre-trip research, I learned that you can actually take a ferry from Zhangzhou to Xiamen. The sea bus is worthy of its reputation as being as convenient and friendly to the people as public transportation. So far, we have gathered all kinds of ways to enter Xiamen by sea, land and air.

Take the sea bus and board Ludao in the morning at the sunrise, and return to Zhangzhou in the evening at night.

A one-day trip in Xiamen starts from Zeng Cuo 'an, who was once literary and artistic, along Huandao Road to Shapowei and Art West District, which are under the banner of literary and artistic freshness, and then climb the World Trade Twin Towers to overlook Xiamen in the clouds.

Zeng Cuo 'an was once full of local humanistic color and petty bourgeoisie like Tianzifang in Shanghai, Kuanzhai Lane in Chengdu, Drum Tower in Nanjing, and Nanluogu Lane in Beijing, making people linger and love. But today, Zengcuo 'an has evolved into a messy and smoky vulgar urban village. The streets are filled with tourists who hope to check in and various homogeneous and repetitive low-end snacks.

Instead, carefully preserved details can be seen outside the entrance of Zeng Cuo 'an.

Because he came early, he could dominate an Internet celebrity wall.

Shapowei is the only fishing port left in Xiamen from ancient times to the present. It is the birthplace of old Xiamen and was once the most prosperous place in Xiamen. Today's Shapowei is home to many so-called cultural and creative shops that seem to us to be lacking, and it also retains some old restaurants with traditional southern Fujian characteristics. It is a place where fresh literature and art coexist with the fireworks of old Xiamen.

Typhoon Harbor is the landmark of Shapowei and the last remaining thing in old Xiamen. Just like its name, this was originally a harbor where fishing boats returned from the sea to shelter from the wind. Although its functionality has now been greatly reduced, some southern Fujian fishing boats can still be seen moored here, leaving traces of past fishing and hunting activities in this harbor.

Stroll along University Road, drill through the bustling tourist groups, and walk through the newly renovated Xiamen Old Arcade. On the back of the Arcade is the shelter dock. The typical front shop and back dock are just like the thirteen lines that have long ceased to exist in Guangzhou. Strolling around the so-called food gathering places, it doesn't take much effort to go downhill, and you've reached the ethnic road at the bottom of the slope without realizing it.

This is the world of young people, and we are probably the oldest among the people.

Next to Shapowei, an abandoned factory building has been transformed into an art west district, and another abandoned factory has been transformed into a bar. From the rooftop of the bar, you can see the style of the old river in Shapowei. The Art West District is not big, cramped and lively. You can see many teenagers who love skateboarding. However, the construction level here is far inferior to that of other cities 'industrial parks. It appears elementary, low-end, rough and sloppy.

Cat Street is also crazy. You can walk a short distance from Shapo Wei to Ding 'ao Tsai, which is what everyone calls Cat Street. In fact, this is a very short and inconspicuous small street. It does have many cat elements. People are crowded and crowded, but no real cat. The Cat Museum here is actually a shop selling cat-themed products.

Along the way from Zengcuo 'an to Shapowei, I feel that although the street buildings have been renovated and renovated, they do have some fresh atmosphere. However, perhaps due to the lack of high-level conceptual concepts and operation models, the quality and effect presented have given us a lackluster impression, which is quite disappointing. The only surprise was to see a high-level oil painting exhibition at the Chinese Children's Art Museum in the Western District, and it was free.

After leaving the West District, walk for 10 minutes to the World Trade Twin Towers. Buy a ticket and take the high-speed elevator to the 55th floor Yunshang Xiamen Sightseeing Hall. It has a broad view of Xiamen's highest altitude and a panoramic view of the mountains and mountains. It should be noted that there is a limited number of people here every day, and you can also go up to the higher 63rd floor to experience the thrills of walking at high altitude.

On the 360-degree transparent viewing platform, you can overlook the entire city from God's perspective through the floor-to-ceiling windows. Gulangyu, Xiamen University, Zengcuo 'an, Shapowei, and Jinmen Island are all at your feet. I hope you will not be afraid of heights and tremors.

The roundabout road outside the window

The tail of the sand slope outside the window

Gulangyu Island under the setting sun outside the window

Returned late and took a ferry back to Zhangzhou with the sunset. Living in Zhangzhou and traveling in Xiamen are additional surprises brought by this trip to Zhangzhou.