2017 Mountain Patrol of the Three Ancient Capitals (2)-Jiawu Terrace Walking Dragon's Ridges
UP ChinaTravel
2024-07-13 20:54:12
0Times

The area 40 kilometers south of Xi'an was called Nanshan in ancient times, which is also the Zhongnan Mountain we are familiar with.

Since ancient times, Zhongnan Mountain has been different because of the existence of hermits and has become more mysterious.

72 valleys in the Qinling Mountains, Ziwu Valley, Daxiao Valley, Shibian Valley, Baidao Valley and Kuyu Valley in Chang 'an;

Nanwutai, Taixing Mountain, Jiawu Terrace, and Cuihua Mountain, which are in the east and west, but each have its own charm;

Since ancient times, many people have hidden themselves in seeking peace or seeking opportunities to gain it.


It is said that Zhongnan Mountain is also the only place of "seclusion" allowed by default in my country; about 2,000 hermits live in it.

The hermit culture formed over thousands of years has taken root, and the residents at the foot of the mountain and the hermits in the mountains have reached a tacit understanding.

The suffering of Qing cultivation requires you to bear the cold and endure hunger. Hermits grow vegetables, practice, practice medicine, and ask questions; in winter, they go into seclusion and in summer, they travel.

In the caves in the mountains, three families, monks, Taoist and laymen built simple thatched tents and lived next to each other, supporting each other and creating an interesting contrast.

Some people follow suit, and if they are good in business, they will hide, and if they escape from the world and enter the world, they will turn into their palms; there are also those who disdain to call it a "shortcut to the end of the south."

Putting aside gains and losses, seclusion is just a way of life; if knowledge and action are integrated, of course it is also an attitude towards life.


"Guanzhong Tongzhi" records: "In today's Shenxiu District of Nanshan, only Nanwutai in Chang 'an County is the most."

I saw its beauty in Nanwutai, and now I want to go to Jiawu Terrace to experience its dangers.

From the perspective of mountain climbers, in addition to Zhongnan Mountain and hermit culture, Jiawu Terrace's mountain appearance alone is attractive.

Jiawu Terrace is located in Baidaoyu, Chang 'an County, Xi'an City. It is a fault block mountain system composed of granite formed by Himalayan geological movement.

There are peaks and peaks with beautiful walls and strange rocks. There are five peaks in the east, west, north, south, and middle. The highest point is 1870 meters above sea level.


Jiawu Terrace was famous nationwide before the first year of Zhenguan of the Tang Dynasty. In the ninth year of Kaiyuan in the Tang Dynasty, Weizhaocun raised funds to build Xingqing Temple at Daiding, Jiawu Terrace.

The temple is built on cliffs and rocks, often surrounded by clouds and clouds. The five peaks rise into the sky like dragons in the clouds and rise into the sky.

The mountain is divided into five stages. The first stage is a receiving stage, dedicated to the Dharma; the second stage is a praying stage, dedicated to the Goddess of Mercy;

The third platform is a wishing platform, dedicated to Ksitigarbha; the fourth platform is a practice platform, dedicated to Shakyamuni;

The fifth platform is the Dai Ding Dharma Promotion Platform, which honors the Five Flower Ancestor. Dai Ding is protruding, and the peak can see the Guanzhong Plain and Chang 'an of the Wei River.

The "Dragon Ridge" wall on the south side of Daiding stands thousands of feet, and natural stone slabs from the mountain build a suspended plank road.

Most of the temples from the foot of the mountain to Daiding belong to Tangfang Temple in Yinzhen, Baidaoyu, Nanzhai and other villages.


During the reign of Emperor Wuzong of the Tang Dynasty, Buddhism was promoted and Buddhism was destroyed, and Buddhism was destroyed again during the Shizong period of the Later Zhou Dynasty.

During the Song and Yuan Dynasties, Chang 'an declined and temples fell into disrepair. It was not until Zhu Yuanzhang, who was born as a monk, ascended the throne that Buddhism was revived again.

Although the rise and fall of Xingqing Temple in this process is unknown, it is also imaginable.

It is reported that Xingqing Temple in Jiawutai Dading was rebuilt during the Wanli Period of the Ming Dynasty and twice during the Kangxi and Tongzhi periods of the Qing Dynasty.

In modern times, Mr. Gao Henian wrote "Travel Notes on Famous Mountains", which records the situation of Xingqing Temple in Jiawu Terrace at that time:

"August 12, Guimao, 29th Year of Guangxu (1903). Yu traveled from Chang 'an through Liu Xiu Village, Wang Mang Village, to Beidao Island (now Baidaoyu).

One day, I passed the top of Jiawu Terrace from Poshan Temple. Standing tall on the wall. Yun is a victory. There are five temples. In the central hall, there are statues of Buddha in bloom.

We pray to Buddhas and Bodhisattva to purify the sea. Below are variegated white cranes, peacocks, Jialing Pinga, and birds that share their lives. The pool water fence follows the net and surrounds the trees.

When flowers bloom, they say the magic method, and when flowers are combined, they will not survive. All kinds of victories can be pushed forward. Pushing left is like the cry of a white crane, and turning right is like the cry of a peacock.

The statue is a famous temple in ancient times."


At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, the main building complex of Xingqing Temple was still intact, including Tianwang Hall, Jingang Hall, Daxiong Hall, Zhuan Buddha Hall, and Dharma Hall.

The hall is resplendent and is covered with glazed tiles and iron tiles. There are six auxiliary halls facing east and west between each hall, together with kitchens, warehouses, etc.

During the ten years of turmoil, Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism encountered disasters, and Xingqing Temple could not escape the fate and was almost completely destroyed.

Today, Xingqing Temple only has four wing rooms, three turning Buddha halls, and three main halls built in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The mountain wall murals are still intact and clear.

On the side of the cave are cliff stone carvings during the Zhenguan period of the Tang Dynasty. This place was the Shifang Taoist Hall in the Tang Dynasty.

Due to the high mountains, dangerous roads and extremely hidden roads, it is a resort for eminent monks and virtuous people to live and practice.

The old monk Yekai of Changzhou Tianning Temple, an eminent monk of the Republic of China, once practiced cultivation here. Gao Henian recorded in "Visiting Famous Mountains":

"To Beidao Island, which is the foothills of Zhongnan Mountain, you will go up the mountain for fifteen miles, where you will break through the rocks and protect the country temple. It is commonly called Jiawu Terrace."


There are more than 40 famous masters and eminent monks who have lived and cultivated here for a long time, including Yin Guang, Xu Yun, Miao Kuo, and Ding Hui.

During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the Living Buddha of Xizang passed through Chang 'an and lived in this Lama Cave. More legendary is the old monk Xuyun (1840-1959).

The development of Zen Buddhism in the Qing Dynasty has declined. Monk Xuyun traveled around, carrying five veins on one shoulder and inheriting it.

An interesting passage is recorded in "Xuyun Chronicle":

"At the end of this year, one day, Xu Lao cooked taro. While waiting for the taro to be ripe, he meditated and unknowingly fell into meditation.

Lin Peng's master had not seen him for a long time, so he came to the thatched shed to pay New Year greetings. I saw tiger trails everywhere outside the hut, but no one.

Entering the tent to check, I saw Lao Xu sitting down, knocking the chime to wake him up. Question: Have you eaten yet?

Xu Lao said: No, the taro is in the pot. It should be cooked. Open it and see that the Penicillium has grown more than an inch high and is as hard as stone.

It turned out that Elder Xu had been in meditation for half a month. This must have crossed the years of sixty-two to sixty-three."

At that time, the old monk Xuyun lived in the Shiziyan Hut in Jiawu Terrace, where he also got the name "Xuyun".


To climb Jiawu Terrace, there are usually 6 roads into the mountain. Because it was necessary to go back and forth by car, I chose to enter from Baidaoyu.

There are Taibai Temple, Ertianmen Gate, Watershed, Mountain God Temple, Sheli Pagoda, Dengladder, Tibetan Temple,

Laohukou, goshawk foraging, broken rocks, Lama Cave, Huixin Stone, Chaotian Tiandi, Daiding Xingqing Temple, etc. all the way to Longji.

There was a round trip to Shangluo the next day. Fortunately, the intensity of the trip to Caolianling was moderate and did not hinder today's trip to Jiawu Terrace.

I still got up in the dark and drove the car. I left the city and headed south. When I passed through the fields, it was the sunrise.

Pass by Baidaoyu Village and arrive at the foot of the mountain on the tractor road. Afraid that other vehicles would block the way out, he turned the car around and parked it.

I was overthinking it. Even when I came out of the mountain, I was still left alone by a car.



The road to the mountain first passes through the locust forests on both sides, and steps on the dirt road where ice and snow still exist.

There were many steep cliffs on both sides, and I suddenly thought of the ancient road famous for its Northern Expedition and the Litchi Flying Trail.

Yes, Ziwu Valley, also known as Ziwu Valley, is not far from Baidao Valley.

The mountain breeze in early winter is still a bit chilly, and the trails are clear. Sometimes you can also use the river and ice surface.




After traveling for a long time, I arrived at the first landmark, Taibai Temple. At this point, the foot was already at the bottom of Baidao Valley, and then we began to climb the mountain.

The tall broad-leaved trees on both sides are already mixed with armandi pine, and the green branches bring some vitality to the desolate winter mountains and forests.

We passed the Second Sky Gate, and there was a stone wall nearby with three poems written on a Dan.

"Wu Chun"

The mountains and rivers of China are here, where can the First Emperor find him? The Wei River flows eastward, and the vegetation is in spring again.

"Sixteen-Character Order"

Knowing the change is the key, and observing the subtle laws in it. Becoming serious and responding is the key point,

Fine response measures must be comprehensive. Change awareness is the foothold, and it is not difficult to make careful arrangements for success.

Wukong

When it comes and goes empty, there is no trace of mistakes and right. Thinking about what is right or wrong is right, and when you start to realize Wukong and Emptiness.


The silence in the mountains actually made it cool. I found a commentary on my mobile phone and listened to it while walking. Soon, the stone steps were replaced by dirt roads.

Several of them circled up a hillside. This is the landmark of the watershed-hundreds of square meters of open space on the mountain ridge, and deep cliffs on both sides of the mountain.

Looking south, the layers are stacked with obstacles, which is the direction of Zhashui River in Shangluo. Inside is a Guan Gong Temple, and a straw shed is built in the open space outside.

It is said that this stall owner couple has been operating here for more than 40 years. Today may be too early, and no one is seen with the benches stacked on.

There is a thatched canopy on the side. Looking at the text, it is actually the seven-step specification of the "layman version".

There are too many people to be peaceful. Those who cultivated in the Qing Dynasty had to use threatening words to admonish them, which may not be effective.



Walking through the watershed, the soil path narrows and steeps. There are cliffs on your side. If you are muddy on rainy days, it is very dangerous to walk.

Thinking the big bag was heavy, I found a bush, hid it and marked it. Carry only your wallet and necessary items with you and continue moving forward.

There is a diagonal stone on the roadside with the inscription "Mountain God Temple". Walking to the right side, you will find that the end of several huge rocks is a hundred-foot cliff.

Moving forward on the left side, a sudden huge rock on the ridge is the Dragon Zhanqiao. Looking from afar, you can vaguely see climbing the ladder.

Walking to a flat ground, there is a relic pagoda here.



The mountain is getting steeper, looking at the deep, it is unfathomable-it feels like a "small Huashan". Fortunately, I was still relaxed when I was empty.

After an altitude of 1500 meters, we arrived at the climbing ladder. The stone steps dozens of meters high and only one person wide are carved out on the cliff, with a slope of more than 70°.

Fortunately, there is an iron chain as thick as a bowl, but a copper nameplate engraved with the eleventh year of Wanli, which has a history of more than 400 years.



Although there were no people on the road, the ancient relics everywhere clearly stated that the road under our feet was never lonely.

On top of the ladder, a stone door hole has the words "Nantian Gate" written, and on the side is a Tibetan temple.

Turning around, you will come to "Goshawk Foraging". The vivid eagle eagle eye is amazing.

Dozens of meters up, there is another huge stone like a Rubik's Cube standing between the road, hanging on all sides and teetering. It was originally called the "Heart Returning Stone".

While walking, I saw a crack on the smooth steep wall ahead like a knife and axe that only allowed one person to pass through, and the words "Broken Rock" were written on the stone wall.


Next to Poshan Temple, next to the cliff is the "Lama Cave" mentioned above, which is said to be named after it was once inhabited by the fifth living Buddha.

There is dripping water in the rock cracks in the cave, there is a natural screen snow tile mountain in the opposite valley, and the road leading to the cave is connected by a stone bridge.

Lama Cave has a cave owner. The former cave owner, Master Zhenyi, once sought favors from all over the world and intended to renovate the Tang Dynasty hall, whose foundation was about to collapse.

A few years later, his apprentice took advantage of wealth, strangled him to death and pushed him down the cliff next to the cave. When he was discovered, he was already a pile of white bones.

Not long after, the brick house of Poshan Temple was opened and the body of a nun was discovered. It did not rot for ten years.

So after discussing with her family, the local Buddhist association decorated her body with gold so that she could worship this fleshly Bodhisattva.

After Master Zhen Yi was killed, Master Wu Ming from another valley in Zhongnan Mountain went up the mountain to build a new door and wall for Lama Cave, fulfilling Master Zhen Yi's long-cherished wish.

The current owner of Lama Cave, Wu Ming, is a local in Xi'an and is known as Ranmian Monk. He is proficient in herbal medicine and is heroic and capable of fighting injustice.

It is said that he cooked a good bowl of noodles. He made noodles and grabbed a handful of firewood and threw it into the pot. After he got familiar with it, even if he ate the firewood he caught, he felt delicious.

Once, there was an ascetic monk in the mountains who built a hut, but was charged an inexplicable fee. Monk Ranmian stepped forward and argued.

Unable to reconcile, he attacked people out of anger and was "invited" by the local public security officer to the detention center for many days.

After returning to the mountain, Monk Danmian shared his gains from the retreat room with others. He said that every day people deliver meals and stand guard,

Someone woke up to do morning exercises, but he took it with ease and was at ease, so that one of the "bosses" in the detention center was converted to his disciple.






--The back of the broken rock

--Yixiantian




There is another stone ladder across your eyes,"towards the ladder." Climbing slowly, Daiding and Xingqing Temple were already in front of you.

Xingqing Temple was built in the ninth year of Kaiyuan in the Tang Dynasty. The original temple has been destroyed and is now rebuilt during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Local people call it the "Mountain God Temple".

There are three or two monks and lay families in the temple, and the courtyard is piled with building materials, which seems to be under repair.

A stone jar and several stone steps clearly write history.


Standing on Daiding, in the distance to the south are Cuihua Mountain and Nanwutai; behind you is the vast Guanzhong Plain.

Walking out of a small stone door facing south, I saw a person's width of bluestone slab built against the cliff. In front of me was the dragon ridge of Jiawu Terrace.

The "Dragon Ridge" is a 100-meter long exposed ridge, two to three meters wide, and the narrowest is only half a meter. On both sides are cliffs like blades.

Even so, some monks still use ribbons to tie them along the ridge, and the places where prayer flags fly, always remind them of the strong Tibetan Buddhist color here.

It is extremely dangerous and there are no more artificial protection measures.



Cross the "Dragon's Ridge" and walk towards the opposite side. Behind a forest path and shrubs, we climbed onto the Jiawu Terrace "Dragon Head" at an altitude of 1810 meters!

Looking around from the deep, the southwest is Xuewa Mountain. The journey there was difficult, so after about two hours back and forth, I stopped going.

To the east is Jiawu Terrace Dai Ding, and the main hall of Xingqing Temple is so small when viewed from the dragon head.

There is a slightly lower hill opposite, with a small house built on the cliffs naturally facing the sky. It is said that it was the place where Old Monk Xuyun cultivated back then.

It took four hours to reach this point, and I truly feel the danger of Jiawu Terrace.

An introduction to Jiawu Terrace mentioned that the dragon head faces south and the dragon tail is north, rushing deep into the Qinling Mountains-really appropriate.


Looking at the Dragon Ridge of Jiawu Terrace from Xuewa Mountain, the end of this trip is the dragon head:


At this point, the trip to Jiawu Terrace came to an end. After a short rest, return the same way.

I retrieved the big bag at the mark and went down to the Taibai Temple and encountered a colored cat. I led the way for a long time before entering a room.

After returning to the car, I took a few sips of hot tea, drove out of Baidaoyu Village and headed straight back to the city.

The Jiawutai chapter of the "Ancient Capital Mountain Patrol" series ends here.



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