Yangzhou Travel Notes (4) - Slender West Lake (Part 1)
UP ChinaTravel
2024-07-23 23:25:00
0Times

Shouxi Lake was a place I visited when I first came to Yangzhou, but my impression is not deep anymore. So this revisit to the old place is also innovative.

I took the bus to the south gate of Shouxi Lake. Later I found out that this choice was wrong!

Shouxi Lake is actually a relatively wide river outside Yangzhou City, originally named Baoyang Lake. During the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, the poet Wang Hang of Qiantang wrote a poem called "Ode to Baoyang River": "The weeping willows continue to pick up the broken Wu, and the geese bite the red bridge like a painting. It is also a pot of gold for sale, so it should be called Shouxi Lake." The name "Shouxi Lake" became widely known.

The development of Shouxi Lake's gardens originated from the prosperity of Yangzhou. The prosperity of Yangzhou comes from the navigation of the Grand Canal. The prosperous canal transportation that began in the Sui and Tang dynasties made Yangzhou a transportation hub on the Grand Canal, and its commercial development reached unprecedented prosperity. From then on, Yangzhou became a wealthy metropolis.

The navigation of the Grand Canal for thousands of years reminds us of the evaluation of Emperor Yang of Sui, who excavated the Grand Canal.

Throughout his education, Yang Guang killed his brother and forced his father to conspire to seize the throne. After taking office, he was arrogant, extravagant, and abused the power of the people, becoming a tyrannical ruler.

In fact, history is always written by the victors. Compared to another Tang dynasty ruler, Li Shimin, Yang Guang's act of killing his brother and forcing his father was also committed by Li Shimin. And the great cause of Li Shimin unifying China was also accomplished by Yang Guang!

The real reason why Yang Guang excavated the Grand Canal was to use military force against Goryeo and open up water transportation in Jiangnan. It was this measure that laid the foundation for the prosperity of the Tang Dynasty.

Yang Guang also pioneered the longest running talent selection system in Chinese history - the imperial examination system. It was this system that changed the situation where the official class only emerged from aristocratic families.

Far from the topic, back to Slender West Lake——

Starting from the Sui and Tang dynasties, gardens were gradually built around Shouxi Lake. The beautiful scenery of Yangzhou has attracted poets and literati such as Li Bai, Du Mu, Su Shi, Qin Guan, and others to stay. Poems and writings praising the scenery of the Slender West Lake have emerged one after another, becoming an immortal chapter in history. My favorite is this' bamboo branch poem ':

The spring water in Hangou is as clear as oil, and the spring breeze lingers everywhere.

The flute of the Twenty Four Bridges rests, and the bright moon still fills Yangzhou

In the Qing Dynasty, Yangzhou was even more favored by the emperor. Kangxi and Qianlong emperors made six southern tours and visited Yangzhou every time. This has further created the grand scene of "flowers and willows on both sides of the river, all the way to the mountains, all the way to the towers and terraces". At this point, the slim West Lake reached its peak. Many garden landscapes are products of this period.

With the decline of Yangzhou's salt industry after Jiaqing, especially the wars of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, Shouxi Lake suffered serious damage. Since modern times, although Yangzhou has gradually lost its position as a transportation hub, due to the status of Shouxi Lake in Yangzhou. There is still progress in garden construction.

In the 1980s, with the development of the economy, the construction of Shouxi Lake was also strengthened. Many desolate scenic spots have gradually been restored. The water area of Shouxi Lake is constantly being dredged, and the garden area is gradually expanding. Shouxi Lake has once again reached its peak.

Get off the bus and walk along the way, passing by 'Xiyuan Qushui'.

There are couplets hanging on both sides of the gate: "With less, victory is greater. The Yao grass and Qi flowers bloom throughout the four seasons; from a small perspective, one can see a glimpse of Penglai, the abbot." This is very attractive to tourists who want to go in and take a look.

I remember entering Slender West Lake from here before. I went in and looked around, but it didn't seem like it was, maybe I made a mistake. Return it and continue along the way until you arrive at Hongqiao.

The Great Hongqiao Bridge was first built during the Chongzhen period of the Ming Dynasty. At that time, it was a wooden bridge called the "Red Bridge" or "Banqiao". In the first year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty, Huizhou salt merchant Huang Luyou invested in the reconstruction of a single hole stone bridge, which was renamed "Hongqiao" due to its rainbow like shape. What we see now is a reinforced concrete arch bridge rebuilt in 1973, which has been changed from a single hole to three holes, making the bridge body more beautiful.

Da Hongqiao is the "Hongqiao Range Rover" among the 24 scenic spots of Shouxi Lake. Before entering the gate of the garden, we first watched the scenery of Shouxi Lake from the bridge. The scenery here is beautiful and pleasant, and it is indeed worth revisiting the old place!

Arriving at the south gate of Shouxi Lake. The couplets on both sides of the gate are: "Heaven and earth are selfless, spring flowers and autumn moon are gone, I stay here, leisure is my master, don't ask about the plants and trees in Pingquan; the lakes and mountains are lush, and the pavilions and pavilions in Jiege are adorned by who, everywhere is unique, truly not diminished by clear paintings." This was written by Li Ding, a famous Yangzhou scholar in the late Qing Dynasty, and handwritten by his daughter Li Shenghe.

Looking at the tour guide map, I found that this place is still far from the central scenic area. More than twenty years ago, we started from here and walked the entire journey. But in my late eighties this year, I don't have such good physical strength anymore. So I chose to take a cruise to reach the Xichuntai Scenic Area.

The cruise ship departs from the dock and travels north along the river. The willows on both sides hang low, swaying with the wind and the water, full of tenderness. It is precisely the 'most passionate Yangzhou willow'!

This poem describes the Southern Garden Spring Willow well:

The Chilan Bridge over the spring water of Chengkuma is adorned with clear waves and verdant sleeves.

I want to get drunk first since I came alone, and good winds move the longest

(unfinished, to be continued)

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