Jiangsu Tourism: Enjoying the Slender West Lake in Yangzhou (pictured)
UP ChinaTravel
2024-07-24 00:53:01
0Times

It is said that the beauty of Shouxi Lake deserves the appropriate word 'Shou'. Only by immersing oneself in the scene can one appreciate her winding and twisting charm, just like the ribbon around a lady's waist, flowing gracefully and charmingly. On December 7, 2009, the reporter took the opportunity to explore the beautiful scenery of Slender West Lake in Jiangnan, truly experiencing the saying "there are six out of thirty West Lakes in the world". However, Slender West Lake in Yangzhou stands out from other lakes with its delicate and graceful charm.

Crossing the Yangtze River to Yangzhou (Photo by Feng Ganyong)

Upon learning that Yangzhou was only one river away from here in Zhenjiang, I took a taxi from Zhenjiang to the Yangtze River Ferry. After crossing the river by ferry, it took about an hour's drive to reach the bonsai garden in Shouxi Lake, Yangzhou. Although it's my second time here, the memories of the 17 years that have been gone have long disappeared. I thought I could enter Shouxi Lake from here, but in fact, Panjing Garden is only a part of Shouxi Lake and is not connected to the lake.

Shouxi Lake Bonsai Garden (Photo by Feng Ganyong)

The bonsai garden is located southeast of Shouxi Lake and is actually a part of it. Although there are no well-known attractions, the scenery is equally pleasant. This mainly includes four scenic spots: "Juanshi Dongtian", "Xiyuan Qushui" and "Hongqiao Xiuyi", while another scenic spot, "Lvyang Chengguo", has not yet been restored. In addition to tree stump bonsai, there are also a large number of water and stone bonsai displayed in the park. There are many types of stones used, such as axe cut stones, turtle patterned stones, sand piled stones, stalactites, etc. The scattered stones are stacked in the pots, outlining the momentum of high mountains and flowing water, forming natural paintings, achieving an artistic effect that originates from nature but is higher than nature.

Shouxi Hunan Gate (Photo by Feng Ganyong)

As one of the five major schools of Chinese bonsai, this professional bonsai garden is as famous as Xiyuan in Guangzhou, Du Fu Thatched Cottage in Sichuan, Longhua Botanical Garden in Shanghai, and Wanjing Mountain Villa in Suzhou. Its ancient and elegant art works decorate the famous scenic spots of famous gardens.

Slender West Lake Photo by Sun Minghe

The bonsai garden is like the Slender West Lake, it is also a narrow and elongated scenic garden. Walking through the beautiful scenery in the garden, you can exit from the north gate of the bonsai garden called "West Garden Qushui" and continue westward for a short distance. After crossing a bridge, you will arrive at the south gate of Slender West Lake. When I saw the three big characters "Skinny West Lake" hanging above the door, I recalled my first impression of this place in 1992, when the journalist entered the scenic area from here.

Slender West Lake Scenery (Photo by Feng Ganyong)

Entering the south gate of Shouxi Lake, the beautiful scenery of the lake can be seen at a glance. Strolling along the long embankment, one can enjoy the beautiful sight of weak willows brushing against the shore, with rippling blue waves and blooming flowers. The scenery is fragrant and pleasant, with flowers and willows scattered along the way. If Hangzhou West Lake is compared to a plump and charming young woman, then Yangzhou Slender West Lake can be compared to a delicate and graceful girl, because Hangzhou West Lake gives people a graceful and luxurious charm, while Yangzhou Slender West Lake gives people a touch of delicate and shy affection. For many years, her unique charm has not only brought joy to the people of Yangzhou, but also captivated many literati and scholars both at home and abroad. The word 'thin' alone has led to many beautiful quotes from poets.

Slender West Lake Long Embankment Trail (Photo by Feng Ganyong)

There are as many as thirty or forty scenic spots named after "West Lake" in China, while "Slender West Lake" is only one in Yangzhou. So why did she name it 'Skinny West Lake'? Shouxi Lake is located in the western suburbs of Yangzhou city, originally named "Pao Shan River", also known as "Bao Bao River". It was a waterway during the Sui and Tang dynasties that flowed from the mountains of Shu to the east of the Dabie Mountains in Anhui Province, where the cave water flowed into the Grand Canal. It has a tourist area of over 50 hectares, a journey of over 6 kilometers, and a winding water like a brocade belt, which is displayed and collected at different times, like the five colored ribbon thrown into the human world by Chang'e when she dances, with a natural and charming shape.

Slender West Lake Corridor (Photo by Feng Ganyong)

The reason why it was renamed as "Skinny West Lake" is because during the Qianlong period, poet Wang Hang compared the Yangzhou Bao'an River with the West Lake in Hangzhou and wrote a poem praising the Bao'an River: "The weeping poplar constantly connects the broken Wu, the geese toothed Hongqiao Yan draws a picture; it is also selling gold in one pot, so it should be called" Skinny West Lake ". Since then," Skinny West Lake "has become an official title and famous both at home and abroad.

Changdi Chunliu Pavilion (Photo by Feng Ganyong)

The reporter wandered along the long embankment and first arrived at the pavilion of "Changdi Chunliu", one of the 24 scenic spots in Yangzhou. Yangliuyi's "Changdi Chunliu" is said to be named after the beautiful love between a young man and woman named Changdi and Chunliu. In the spring season, here a willow tree with peach blossoms is filled with warm affection. The willow catkins dancing on the lake make people feel confused and disoriented, which can probably provide a commentary for the "fireworks" in Li Bai's poem "Fireworks in Yangzhou in March".

Xu Yuan's storefront (Photo by Feng Ganyong)

After walking along the "Changdi Chunliu" to the end, you will see a round cave gate with the words "Xu Yuan" written on it. This used to be the ancestral hall of warlord Xu Baoshan, but now it is a place for tourists to rest. Inside the door is a pool of clear water, covered with lotus flowers. Various forms of rocks are dotted around the pool, and several green willows dance in the wind, creating a pleasant scenery. The main hall in the garden is called Tingli Hall, named after the poetic phrase "Two orioles chirping on green willows, a line of white egrets ascending to the blue sky". The nanmu partition in the museum is a masterpiece among the existing partitions in Yangzhou. The two large iron pots in front of Tingli Pavilion are water control artifacts from over 1500 years ago, which reflects the prosperity of Yangzhou's smelting industry and its thriving economy. There is a pavilion, a pavilion, and a pavilion in Xuyuan, with curved water outside and a pond inside. The flowers, trees, bamboo, and stones are just right, fully reflecting the exquisite elegance of Jiangnan gardens.

Xu Yuan Scenery (Photo by Feng Ganyong)

Continuing north from Xuyuan, you will arrive at the small island of Xiaojin Mountain located in the lake. This place was originally named Changchun Ridge and was built in the mid Qing Dynasty. At that time, in order to open up the water passage from Shouxi Lake to Daming Temple, a new river called Lianhua Ridge was excavated in the northwest of Shouxi Lake. The soil excavated from the river formed a small hill, which is now known as Xiaojin Mountain. From here, you can see the main lake area of Shouxi Lake. The pavilions and trees arranged in a staggered manner, far and wide, make the water surface of Shouxi Lake appear broad and profound, like a freehand Chinese landscape painting.

Xiaojinshan Island (Photo by Feng Ganyong)

Xiaojin Mountain is the largest island in Shouxi Lake and also the most densely populated area of buildings on the lake. The Wind Pavilion, Wind Platform, Piano Room, Wooden Tile Bookstore, Chess Room, and Moon View are all concentrated here. There is another origin to the name "Xiaojin Mountain": it is said that once two monks from Yangzhou and Zhenjiang were chatting, and the Zhenjiang monk said, "Even the green mountains dislike the customs of Yangzhou, and many peaks cannot reach the river." Of course, the Yangzhou people did not agree with this statement, so the two of them played chess and made a bet. As a result, the monk from Yangzhou excelled in chess, and the scene was named "Little Jinshan". He hung a couplet in the court that read, "If all the fingers were empty, could the jade bureau be left behind; if the fist was not big, Jinshan would still cross the river." With just the word "small," he extradited the "Jinshan" from Zhenjiang.

Looking at the Diaoyu Islands from afar (Photo by Feng Ganyong)

From a young age, traveling west along Jinshan Lake, one can see a series of scenic spots such as Diaoyutai, Wuting Bridge, and White Pagoda in the West Lake. The fishing platform deep into the lake was originally a place for playing silk and bamboo instruments. Legend has it that Emperor Qianlong visited here and for some reason became interested in fishing, so someone immediately sent a fishing rod. But the fish in Shouxi Lake are not obedient. Emperor Qianlong, who usually responds to calls, has been fishing for half a day, but not a single fish has taken the bait. The accompanying Yangzhou salt merchant became anxious and immediately secretly selected several sailors with good water properties to dive underwater with live fish. Holding lotus leaves and relying on their stems for ventilation. As soon as the Qianlong fishing rod on top fell, the live dragon fish below was hooked, and Emperor Qianlong was naturally delighted.

The scenery of Shouxi Lake (Photography by Feng Ganyong)

In China, there are many scenic spots named after "Diaoyutai", but fishing in Yangzhou is the smallest and most distinctive among many fishing platforms. It is a model of Chinese famous pavilion architecture and a representative work of Chinese garden "framing" art. Standing at an angle of 60 degrees from the fishing platform, one can see the horizontal waves of Wuting Bridge in the circular hole to the north, while the majestic White Pagoda can be seen in the elliptical hole to the south.

Wuting Bridge and White Pagoda (Photo by Feng Ganyong)

The scene on the Slender West Lake is colorful and plain, with one horizontal and one horizontal bed, truly exquisite. This is also a place where tourists must take photos when visiting Yangzhou. The scene of borrowing scenery in that cave corresponds exactly to the name of "Three Star Arch Photo".

On Wuting Bridge (Photo by Feng Ganyong)

If we compare Slender West Lake to a graceful and charming young girl, then the Five Pavilions Bridge built on Slender West Lake is the gorgeous belt on the girl's body. Because there are five pavilions built on the bridge, it is named Wuting Bridge and also known as Lianhua Bridge. This unique and beautiful bridge is not only a symbol of Slender West Lake, but also a symbol of Yangzhou city. The bridge was built in the 22nd year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty and has a history of over 200 years.

Up close view of Diaoyutai (Photo by Feng Ganyong)

There are five wind pavilions with strong southern characteristics built on Wuting Bridge. The tall and beautiful wind pavilions are like five lotus flowers slowly emerging from the water. There is a treasure roof on the pavilion, a ceiling painted inside, and wind chimes hanging outside the pavilion. The piers of Wuting Bridge are made of 12 large pieces of bluestone, forming a thick and powerful "I-shaped" bridge foundation. The shape of the bridge is elegant and beautiful, with yellow tiles and red columns, accompanied by white railings. The pavilion is decorated with painted coffered ceilings, creating a magnificent and magnificent atmosphere with the characteristics of southern architecture. Under the bridge are thick piers with northern architectural features, harmoniously combining the art of architecture from the north and south, garden design, and bridge engineering. No wonder Mr. Mao Yisheng, a famous bridge expert in China, commented that the oldest bridge in China is the Zhaozhou Bridge, the most magnificent bridge is the Lugou Bridge, and the most artistically beautiful bridge is the Wuting Bridge in Yangzhou.

Wuting Bridge (Photo by Feng Ganyong)

From the north of the bridge across the lake to the south of the bridge, walking not far leads to the White Pagoda and Lianxing Temple. Legend has it that in 1784, Emperor Qianlong took his sixth boat tour of Shouxi Lake in Yangzhou. Seeing the scenery around Wuting Bridge from the water, I regretfully said, "It's just a pity that a white pagoda is missing. Otherwise, this place would look just like the spring shade of Qiong Island in Beihai." The speaker had no intention of listening, and the wealthy Yangzhou salt merchant immediately spent 100000 taels of silver to buy the design of the Beihai White Pagoda from the eunuch. That night, he piled up a white pagoda with white salt packets. This is the story of "building a tower overnight" that has been passed down in Yangzhou to this day.

Up close view of the White Pagoda (Photo by Feng Ganyong)

The White Pagoda of Slender West Lake in Yangzhou is 27.5 meters high, with a waist cinched and bearded pagoda base below. It has eight sides and four corners, with three niches on each side, and twelve zodiac statues carved inside the niches. Unlike the heavy and sturdy White Pagoda in Beihai, the Yangzhou White Pagoda has a symmetrical proportion, with a jade pavilion standing tall and complementing the nearby Wuting Bridge.

Buyun Xiaoyuan (Photographer: Feng Ganyong)

After admiring the majestic appearance of the White Pagoda and visiting the Lianxing Temple, the reporter wandered around the Slender West Lake along the long embankment from the south gate for a full tour. Although I haven't fully explored the Slender West Lake, the main beautiful scenery in the lake has already made me feel very comfortable and intoxicated. Actually, the best way to visit West Lake is by boat. From the Imperial Wharf where the Emperor of the Qing Dynasty boarded the boat during his southern tour, you can see several grass houses and waterside pavilions on the bank, and from the window, the attractive aroma of Steamed dumplings, dried silk, crab roe buns, and three dice buns will be wafted out. As the boat sailed, there were more and more trees on the shore, the lake became wider and the air became fresher. In the gentle breeze drifting on the water surface, the fishy smell of some aquatic plants or small fish can instantly alleviate the depression in one's chest. Amidst the lush greenery, it's as if I can see the silhouette of the city wall, and perhaps I can't help but recite Wang Yuyang's famous line: 'The Green Yang City Wall is Yangzhou'

Runyang Bridge (Photo by Feng Ganyong)

Yangzhou is a place of cultural heritage, where politicians, writers, painters, and artists from all dynasties gather. Countless classics, poems, calligraphy, paintings, music, songs, and dances have been left behind in Yangzhou, as well as many beautiful legends and stories. The Shouxi Lake Garden not only has natural scenery, but also rich historical and cultural heritage. With the four seasons and eight festivals, the wind rises in the morning and the moon falls in the evening, making Shouxi Lake transform into infinite wonders, showcasing a myriad of poetic and picturesque elements. Strolling through the slim West Lake, while enjoying the beautiful scenery of the lake, can also be said to be reading a rich historical book, which not only enriches people's knowledge, but also elevates their souls. (Text and image: Feng Ganyong)


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