Due to well-known reasons, I feel too suppressed. So I took a small team to Zhenjiang and Yangzhou for a 4-day 3-night independent trip. The average cost per person for the entire journey is 550 yuan. Let's take a look at the scenery first: the famous Slender West Lake.
Wenchang Pavilion in the center of Yangzhou city.
On April 25th, I took a hard seat train ride with my elderly group from Shanghai for 37.50 yuan, a 3-hour journey, and arrived in Zhenjiang.
Arrive at Zhenjiang Railway Station at noon. Then on that day, we went on a trip to Zhenjiang, the next day we went to Yangzhou, the third day we continued to stay in Yangzhou, and returned to Zhenjiang in the afternoon. On the the fourth day, visit Zhenjiang in the morning and return to Shanghai in the afternoon.
The next morning, we went to Yangzhou. There are three ways to travel from Zhenjiang to Yangzhou now: 1. Take bus route 10 for 1 yuan to reach the ferry crossing, take a boat ticket for 3 yuan to reach the Guazhou ferry crossing, and change to a Yangzhou bus for 2 yuan to reach the city center or Shouxi Lake. Take the Zhenyang special line bus for 15 yuan directly to Yangzhou, but this type of bus runs every 30 minutes. 3 is a Didi car, which costs 20 yuan per person to deliver to the destination. We choose Didi car and deliver directly to the Shouxihu branch of Yangzhou Home Inn. A double room costs 120 yuan per day.
After arriving in Yangzhou, pack your luggage. We will hike along the Outer City River, and below is the Yechun Tea House across from our accommodation hotel. It has been passed down in the community that 'Fuchun's baozi, Yechun's dried silk, Gonghechun's dumpling noodles'. In addition to the big boiled dry silk appearing in China on the Tongue, Steamed dumplings are also the unique skill of Yechun Tea House. Steamed dumplings with bamboo shoots and meat are not only large, but also thin in skin, rich in fillings, and thick in soup juice. The food is delicious, especially appetizing. Yechun Garden was originally the private garden of the Qing Dynasty poet Wang Yuyang. Here, the garden and tea house are combined, and visitors can enjoy the local folk customs, tea, and snacks, as well as the natural pleasure of ancient charm.
Our specialty food: Thousand layer cake, Yangzhou lion's head, crab roe soup bun, boiled dried silk, fresh meat Steamed dumplings, Wuding bun, pine seed barbecue, Yechun meat, bean curd jelly served with sauce brain, boiled dried silk. We originally planned to enjoy it here for dinner, but later found that the fame was obviously greater than the reality.
In the morning, the skin is covered in water, and in the evening, the skin is covered in water. Yangzhou people have a habit of drinking morning tea, and the representative of Yangzhou cuisine is morning tea. I came here specifically to experience this tea house, which has a history of over 200 years. It is a renowned century old shop. The skin of the crab roe soup bun is very thin, and it is filled with crab roe soup, which is incredibly delicious. The thousand layer oil cake and jadeite shaomai are known as the "twin wonders of Yangzhou". The oil cake is very soft, sweet and delicious. Yangzhou lion's head is one of the classic Huaiyang Cuisine dishes, but usually it is braised in brown sauce. "Yechun Steamed dumplings" is delicious. It is a big one with meat stuffing inside, thin skin and many fillings.
The Yangzhou Buddhist Culture Museum in China includes Tianning Temple and Chongning Temple. Located on the north bank of the Yangzhou moat, Tianning Temple was once the palace of Emperor Qianlong. The red walls are quite impressive, and exhibitions related to Buddhism can be seen inside; Chongning Temple is located north of Tianning Temple, with blue bricks and black tiles, and its appearance is much simpler. Here is a free admission tour.
Chongning Temple was first built in the 49th year of the Qianlong reign (1784 AD), rebuilt during the reign of Emperor Tongzhi, and rebuilt during the reign of Emperor Guangxu. It still retains the Tianwang Hall, the main hall, the Wenchang Pavilion, and the monk's quarters. It is now the Yangzhou Chinese Painting Academy and the Yangzhou Cultural Relics and Archaeology Team.
According to legend, Tianning Temple was renovated from the residence of Xie Anshe, a famous minister of the Eastern Jin Dynasty. Most of the existing buildings were restored during the Qing Dynasty's Tongzhi period, and in modern times, the Wanfo Tower has been rebuilt. The central top of the Wanfo Tower is adorned with hundreds of golden Buddha statues, which are very beautiful. Several main halls along the central axis of Tianning Temple have been converted into exhibition halls, with antique shops on both sides. On the large lawn inside the temple, there are scattered some Buddha statues, although some are damaged, they are very exquisite.
At present, the exhibitions that can be seen at Tianning Temple include Yangzhou Eight Eccentrics Painting and Calligraphy Exhibition, Buddhist Culture Exhibition, and Siku Quanshu Restoration Exhibition. The exhibition of Yangzhou Eight Eccentrics' calligraphy and painting works introduces the life of Yangzhou Eight Eccentrics with pictures and displays their works; The Buddhist Culture Exhibition displays some Buddhist statues and introduces the history of Buddhist dissemination; The exhibition of the restoration of the Siku Quanshu showcases a set of high-precision replicas of the Siku Quanshu in its original size and color.
Next, we will go to the Skafa Memorial Hall. Also known as Shigong Temple, it is located on the banks of the Hucheng River in Yangzhou. It was first built during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty and rebuilt in the ninth year of the Tongzhi reign. The temple gate faces south, with the east tomb and west temple. It is a place to commemorate the national hero Shi Kefa who fought against the Qing Dynasty in the late Ming Dynasty. The ginkgo trees in autumn and the plum blossoms in winter add more heroic spirit to the memorial hall. Here is a free admission tour.
The meandering moat flows in front of the Shikefa Memorial Hall, and there is a slightly wider bridge on the river called the Shigong Bridge. There is also a small bridge that leads directly to the main entrance of the memorial hall and is only for pedestrians to walk on. After entering the door, the first thing I saw was the banquet hall, with famous couplets written by Qing Zhang Erjin on both sides: "Counting the tears of the fallen plum blossom, and the heart of the departed minister with a bright moon. There is a cloud patterned plum blossom canopy in the hall, with a horizontal plaque hanging on top that reads' Mighty Mountains and Rivers', and a statue of Shi Kefa sitting in the center.
In the Shi Kefa Memorial Hall, one can see Shi Kefa's handwriting, precious cultural relics, and learn about the deeds of Shi Kefa and other national heroes. In addition, the Guangling Qin School Historical Materials Exhibition Hall is also located in the scenic area, displaying cultural relics such as guqin and paintings. Sometimes guqin performances can also be seen here.
Behind the banquet hall is the Historical Cemetery. As the body of Shi Kefa was not found by later generations after his death, only clothes and hats were buried in the tomb. On both sides of the tomb are words and phrases written by famous figures from home and abroad for Shi Kefa. After the Qing army captured Beijing, Shi Kefa defended the city of Yangzhou alone. After the defeat, he was killed and Yangzhou was slaughtered for ten days. This history is also described in Jin Yong's novel "The Deer and the Cauldron".
After the visit, continue to stroll along the leisurely moat.
We walked to a garden on foot, located at No. 10 Yanfu East Road in the northeast corner of the ancient city of Yangzhou, Jiangsu Province. It has won the titles of the third batch of "National Key Cultural Relics Protection Units" and the first batch of "National Key Parks", and enjoys a high reputation both domestically and internationally. This private garden of a salt merchant's mansion in Yangzhou during the Qing Dynasty is famous for planting green bamboo everywhere and for its rockery in the four seasons of spring, summer, autumn, and winter. In the 23rd year of the Jiaqing reign of the Qing Dynasty (1818 AD), Huang Zhiyun, the salt merchant general of the two Huai regions, expanded the original Ming Dynasty "Shouzhi Garden" into a residential garden.
It is known as one of the four famous gardens.
The admission fee for the individual park is 45 yuan, the senior ticket is 22 yuan, and the 70 year old is free of charge. It is currently the 'Fireworks March in Yangzhou' event period, and any ticket fees incurred during the event period can be used to obtain a 'Hui Min Card'. How much did the ticket cost, all subsidized by the Yangzhou Municipal Government. It can be fully used for meals and accommodation.
The garden is famous for its layered stone art. The rockery made of bamboo shoots, lake stones, yellow stones, and Xuan stones in the four seasons of spring, summer, autumn, and winter integrates the principles of garden design and landscape painting. It is praised as a "unique example in China" by the garden master Mr. Chen Congzhou. In 2005, the park was hailed as a national AAAA level scenic tourist area and one of the twenty key parks in China. In 2016, Geyuan became one of the first national key flower culture bases.
Below, there are several Qulang and Xiaoge corridors where the owner searches for poetic lines. A couplet reads, "The moon reflects thousands of words on the bamboo, and the frosty plum blossoms are pregnant with flowers. The Miju Corridor is connected to the buildings on the West Road. To the northwest, it leads to Xiashan, to the north to Yiyuxuan, the main building of the "Four Seasons rockery", and to the east to Chunshan and Dongshan.
In the center of the Four Seasons Garden of the individual garden is the "Yiyu Pavilion", which is three pillars wide to the east and has four virtual windows on all sides, providing a panoramic view of the garden. The roof of Xuan is made of common black tiles in Yangzhou, with slightly raised corners, and several pieces of stained glass imported from France during the garden construction are preserved on the east and west walls. Yiyuxuan is the place where the garden owner receives guests, and there is a couplet in front of the pavilion: "It is best to tune the qin in the morning and play the zither in the evening, and it is better to play the zither in the evening. The old rain is suitable until the beginning of the rain.
In the 23rd year of the Jiaqing reign of the Qing Dynasty (1818 AD), Huang Zhiyun, the general manager of the salt industry in the two Huai regions, established a garden on the site of the former Shouzhi Garden in the Ming Dynasty. Liu Fenggao's "Record of the Individual Garden" records: "The pond and pavilion in the garden are quiet, the water and wood are clear, and there are thousands of bamboo poles planted, so it is called the individual garden." During the Tongzhi period, the individual garden was sold to Li Wen'an, a salt merchant in Dantu, Zhenjiang. Later, the Li family was burdened with official debts, and warlord Xu Baoshan forced the Li family to use the individual garden to offset their debts. During the Qing Xianfeng period, a garden was once burned down by soldiers. Although there was not much damage, it gradually declined. After several repairs after the founding of the country, it regained its prosperity.
The following photo shows Baoshan Tower, a seven column long tower that spans between two mountains in summer and autumn. The two mountains are arranged in an east-west direction, with multiple mountain paths leading directly to the upper level. Baoshan Tower connects the two mountains in space, and a long corridor in front of the tower surrounds them in front of the chest. This is the origin of the name Baoshan Tower. On the long corridor of Baoshan Tower, one can enjoy both summer and autumn scenery together, hence it is jokingly called the "Time and Space Tunnel" by modern people. On the south wall of the corridor downstairs, there is a carved stone of "Bamboo and Stone Records" written by the Qing Dynasty scholar Liu Fenghao.
The photo above shows Qingyi Pavilion, a small hexagonal pavilion that stands tall and dignified, offering a panoramic view of the entire garden. A lot of the Taihu Lake Lake stones are arranged around the Qingyi Pavilion, and the the Taihu Lake Lake stones are surrounded by a bend of green water. The Qingyi Pavilion is very beautiful under many arches. [7] Zhang Shuo, Qin style sentence title: Yangzhou Geyuan Qingyi Pavilion: Weather with bamboo atmosphere; The mountains are illuminated by the lake.
The photo above shows the Shushu Building, opposite the Geyuan Garden, south of Dongguan Street. It is the former site of the Xiaolinglong Mountain Pavilion owned by Ma Riwan and Ma Rilu brothers, another major salt merchant in Yangzhou. The Shushu Building of the Xiaolinglong Mountain Pavilion is known for its collection of books, earning it the title of "Jia Da Jiang Nan Bei". Later, with the decline of salt transportation in Yangzhou, the Ma family became increasingly depressed. The Xiaolinglong Mountain Pavilion changed hands several times and was finally bought by Huang Zhiyun as a separate courtyard. It was destroyed by war during the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom.
For lunch, I ordered Yangzhou Hot Dried Silk for 6 yuan. The method of blanching dried silk in Yangzhou emphasizes blanching technique, savory taste, refreshing and soft texture. After slicing and shredding, first heat the dried silk three times with boiling water, mainly to soften it. Then put the dried silk in a plate, put a pinch of ginger on top of it, and then heat it with boiling water from top to bottom to let the ginger juice enter the dried silk. After decanting the water, there is still some ginger juice in the dried silk. Add boiled shrimp, green bamboo shoots, coriander and other ingredients, and drizzle with sesame oil and soy sauce for seasoning. The modern Yangzhou hot dry silk is known as the "one pillar sky style". According to reports, generally, the dish of hot dried silk is Mantou type. After several times of hot drying, the dried silk is put into the dish and poured with boiling water. Hold the dish in one hand and the dried silk in the other hand, decant the water and pour the sauce. The hands of the master of making hot dry silk have been tested for a long time, and they are not afraid of being burned. This basic skill training is a painful process. Nowadays, chefs make a pillar style hot dry silk by placing a pillar shaped iron wire mesh into the silk, then slightly scalding it in boiling water, removing the water, and pouring the sauce over it. The preparation of the sauce is made by using several brands of soy sauce, adding fragrant leaves, cinnamon, star anise, carrots, celery, mushrooms, and water, and simmering them over low heat. The white dried shreds are placed on a white porcelain plate with a light brown seasoning sauce as the base, and the finely cut ginger shreds emit a tender yellow oil color. On top of the dried shreds pile, add one or two green coriander leaves and a few red chili shreds.
After lunch, we headed to He Yuan. Heyuan, originally named Jixiao Mountain Villa, is the finale of private gardens in Yangzhou. It is a national key cultural relic protection unit, a national aaaa level tourist attraction, and has been rated as one of the first batch of national key gardens along with Beijing Summer Palace and Suzhou Humble Administrator's Garden. The original site of Heyuan was an ancient garden during the Qianlong period, named "Shuanghuai Garden".
The admission fee is 45 yuan, and the senior ticket is 22 yuan. Free admission at the age of 70.
The Pianshi Mountain House here is known as the "Number One Mountain in the World" and is the "solitary home in the world" where the giant painter Shi Tao and monk stacked stones. Famous scholar Yu Qiuyu said that in the history of Chinese gardening, what people can look up to is He Yuan's "Pianshi Mountain House". Contemporary Chinese experts in ancient architecture and landscaping, such as Tong Jun, Liu Dunzhen, Pan Guxi, Luo Zhewen, and Chen Congzhou, have praised He Yuan's unique gardening techniques, calling it a "unique example in Jiangnan gardens". Mr. Luo Zhewen also specially inscribed the garden with the words "The First Garden of Late Qing Dynasty".
This is: Ship Hall. Among all the buildings in Dongyuan, Ship Hall is the most exquisite. The entire hall is shaped like a boat, surrounded by pebbles and tiles arranged in a water ripple pattern, giving people a water dwelling atmosphere. There are couplets on the pillars next to the hall: 'The moon is the host, the plum blossom is the guest, and the flowers are the four walls of the boat as the home.' The boat hall is surrounded by transparent glass windows.
This is: Shuixin Pavilion. The West Garden is centered around a pool, and the center of the pool is the Shuixin Pavilion. This Shuixin Pavilion is the only water play pavilion in China, dedicated to garden owners to enjoy opera, singing and dancing, and cool off and appreciate the scenery. More than 100 film and television dramas, such as "Dream of the Red Chamber", "The Princess of Huan Zhu", and "Bi Sheng", have all filmed here.
The following is: The compound corridor is formed by sandwiching a wall in the middle of the double-sided corridor, which plays a role in diverting traffic. The intersection of Fudao leads to the Butterfly Gallery on one side and the Reading Building on the other, which is located at the northwest corner behind the boat hall. The first thing you see when entering Xiyuan is the winding corridor that runs through the entire park, with a total length of over 1500 meters, known as the prototype of China's overpass. The corridor, commonly known as Chuanlou by Yangzhou people, is divided into upper and lower floors, connecting the East Garden, West Garden, and residential courtyards together. There are various cave windows and water mill leaky windows on the southeast walls of the corridor.
Entering He Garden is like stepping into a beautiful painting of history and culture; A legendary figure with multiple identities, including a bureaucrat, salt merchant, hermit, and educator, reveals his intricate and secretive journey of inner turmoil here; A living drama of the rise and fall, honor and disgrace of a noble family moving from feudalism to enlightenment is vividly staged here; A rich and colorful spin off story of the ever-changing modern history of China is vividly presented here... He Garden is the final masterpiece among the large private gardens in Yangzhou. After Tongguang, due to the decline of salt merchants and transportation, the center of garden construction had shifted to Suzhou. At this time, Yangzhou gardens were in a state of rejuvenation, but still reflected their bold and grand side. And He Yuan incorporates the essence of Yangzhou gardens into Da Cheng, and blends elements of Western architecture very well, becoming a wonderful work in the history of Chinese gardens!
Below is a wall mounted rockery, which is stacked against the wind and fire wall at the back of the ship hall. A group of rockeries with a length of more than 60 meters are stacked against the wall. There is a winding mountain path on top, and an empty valley meets below. The water surrounds the valley, and there is a moon pavilion on the mountain. Passing the moon pavilion, you can climb up to the winding corridor, forming a three-dimensional transportation system for the whole garden.
Leaving the Jade Embroidery Tower, head east along the winding corridor and enter the Horse Riding Tower. The Horse Riding Tower is the guest house of He Yuan, resembling a saddle, and is divided into two buildings, east and west. The East Building, also known as the East First Building, is neatly arranged with the East Second and East Third Floors facing north. These three buildings are all two-story, connected in front and back, and interconnected in top and bottom.
This is Yuxiu Building, with a theme of two two-story brick and wood structures in front and back. It adopts the traditional Chinese concept of cascading buildings and incorporates Western architectural techniques, such as French louvered doors and windows, Japanese sliding doors, French fireplaces, wrought iron beds, and more.
The daily life of a wealthy household.
This is a Nanmu Hall with an area of 160 square meters, which is currently the largest and most well preserved Nanmu Hall in Yangzhou. It is the place where the host receives guests. On both sides of the main entrance of Nanmu Hall, Western architectural techniques are integrated, using a whole piece of glass that is 4 square meters large and 9 millimeters thick, providing excellent lighting effects.
The crown of Heyuan's architectural features - the 1500 meter complex corridor, known as the "number one corridor in the world", constitutes the beauty of garden architecture's accessibility and circular changes, and is referred to by industry experts as the prototype of China's overpasses. Maximizing the functionality and charm of corridor architecture is one of the few wonderful landscapes in Chinese gardens! There is a winding corridor over a thousand meters long here; There is the best window in the world; The world's first opera pavilion; There is the most modern jade embroidery building in China over a hundred years ago; There is a complete underground drainage system. He Yuan is a poem that creates a garden with poetic imagery, and then takes visitors to the garden to enter the realm of poetry, making them yearn for it.
After leaving He Yuan, we took a bus for 2 yuan and headed to Dongguan Ancient Ferry. Dongguan Ancient Ferry is a scenic spot on the Yangzhou Ancient Canal. In ancient times, this was a ferry crossing on the Grand Canal between Beijing and Hangzhou. Nowadays, this place has been developed into a famous scenic spot of the Yangzhou Ancient Canal, which is a good place for people to travel and relax. Nowadays, the ancient canal in Yangzhou has undergone a comprehensive revision and formed a water-based tourist route, and Dongguan Ancient Ferry is also a terminal area of this tourist route. This tourist route starts from Shouxi Lake in the north and ends at Guazhou Ancient Ferry in the south. Along the way, stop at attractions such as Guazhou Scenic Area, Gaomin Temple, Wenfeng Pagoda, Longshou Pass, Puhading Cemetery, Dongguan Ancient Ferry, Shuangwengcheng, and Ancient Zhuyu Bay.
Below: Dongguan Street in Yangzhou, Jiangsu Province, is the most representative historical street in Yangzhou city. It stretches 1122 meters from Guyun River in the east to Guoqing Road in the west. Dongguan Street used to be not only a major transportation hub for water and land in Yangzhou, but also a center for commerce, handicrafts, and religious culture.
The Dongmen Site, also known as the Shuangwengcheng Site, is located in the eastern part of the historical district of Dongguan Street. It was first built in the mid Tang Dynasty and has been used by various dynasties to repair city gates and walls. The city gates and walls we see today are newly built in modern times, imitating the style of Song Dynasty city walls and gates. Climbing up the city tower, you can overlook the panoramic view of Dongguan Street. Passing through the doorway under the Dongmen Ruins, one can see through the glass floor the ruins of the Tang and Song dynasties city walls below. The cultural history of Yangzhou and Dongguan Street is introduced in the form of an exhibition hall inside the city tower, so if you want to visit the attractions of Dongguan Street and understand its heritage, starting from the Dongmen Site is a good choice. After seeing the exhibition, you can climb up to the city tower to see the memorial archway of Dongguan Ancient Ferry to the east, and Dongguan Street and the ancient buildings with black bricks and grey tiles on both sides can be seen to the west. When the weather is good, it is recommended to climb up the city tower at dusk, where you can see the sunset on Dongguan Street.
The streets are bustling with listings and numerous businesses, offering a wide range of trades and thriving business. There are nearly a hundred businesses including Luchenxing, Youmifang, Xianyu, Baxian, Guaguo, and Zhumu. The "time-honored" merchants on Dongguan Street include Simei Sauce Garden, which opened in 1817, Xie Fuchun Fragrant Powder Store in 1830, Pan Guanghe Hardware Store in 1862, Xia Guangsheng Tofu Store in 1901, Chen Tongxing Shoe Store in 1909, Qian Dachang Paper Store in 1912, Zhen Taichang Fragrant Powder Store in 1923, Zhang Hongxing Pawnshop in 1936, Qingfeng Tea and Food Store in 1938, Si Liuchun Tea Society in 1940, Xie Feng Nanhuo Store in 1941, Ling Daxing Tea and Food Store in 1945, and Fu Ji Pawnshop in 1946. In addition, there are Zhou Guangxing Hat Store, Heng Mao Oil and Hemp Store, Shun Tai Nan Store. Goods store, Hengtai Xiang color store, Zhudeji flour store, etc. Dongguan Street is a concentrated area of handicraft industry in Yangzhou, with connected stores in the front and back areas covering the entire street, such as Fan Shunxing Umbrella Shop, Cao Shunxing Luoban Old Shop, Sun Zhuchen Lacquerware Workshop, Yuan Taixiang Sugar Workshop, Sun Ji Jade Workshop, Dong Houhe Socks Factory, etc. Closely connected to Dongguan Street is the ancient street area of Dongquan Gate. The two streets have now been jointly planned, renovated, and developed. In addition to old brand shops, there are also numerous historical relics and cultural relics concentrated here: Yipu, Wang's Small Garden, National Key Cultural Relics Protection Unit Individual Garden, Guangling Academy, Anding Academy, Yidong Academy founded earlier in Yangzhou, as well as Wudang Palace and Zhunti Temple in the Ming Dynasty.
Below: Qionghua Temple, located at the eastern end of Dongquanmen Historical District, formerly known as Fanli Temple, is a scenic spot that you can take a look at while passing by. It is famous for the Qionghua flowers grown inside the temple, and usually attracts few tourists. However, when the flowers bloom from April to May, it is crowded with people. Understanding the history of Taoist temples and the stories of ancient people and Qionghua will give you a sense of mystery. Qionghua Temple was first built in the Han Dynasty, and most of the buildings seen today have been renovated in modern times. The memorial archway at the entrance of the Taoist Temple is inscribed with "Fanli Temple". Walk into the mountain gate behind the memorial archway and you can see the Sanqing Hall, the main hall. The hall was originally built by Gao Pian, a Huainan envoy, in the second year of Emperor Xizong's reign in the Tang Dynasty (AD 882).
In front of the Sanqing Hall, there are ginkgo, dragon claw locust, Qionghua, and old elm trees planted. Although Qionghua is no longer the original thing of the past, it does not hinder the enthusiasm of tourists to come and admire the flowers. When the Qiong flowers are in full bloom, each cluster has eight small flowers surrounding the middle stamen, like a pure white jade plate, very beautiful. The garden behind the Sanqing Hall is small and exquisite, and the Qionghua Terrace inside is related to the story of Wu Jingzi's downfall in his later years, the author of "The Scholars". The pavilion standing there is derived from the Wushuang Pavilion built by Ouyang Xiu next to Qionghua. In addition, there is a jade hook ancient well relic inside the Taoist temple. Qionghua Temple sometimes holds calligraphy and painting exhibitions, and coupled with its proximity to Yangzhou No.1 Middle School, the sound of reading can sometimes be heard, giving it a literary and artistic atmosphere. Entering from the alley to the west of Qionghua Temple leads to the Dongquan Gate Historical District. 300 meters north of Dongquan Gate is the Dongguan Street Historical District, which can be visited together.
Dongguan Street has a relatively complete Ming and Qing architectural complex and a "fishbone shaped" street and alley system, maintaining and inheriting the traditional style and characteristics of the Ming and Qing dynasties. It has a total length of 1122 meters and is home to over 50 important historical relics such as celebrity residences, salt merchant mansions, temple gardens, and ancient trees and wells. Among them, there are 2 national cultural heritage sites, 2 provincial cultural heritage sites, and 21 municipal cultural heritage sites. This diverse and vibrant spatial pattern of "river (canal), city (gate), and street (Dongguan Street)" reflects the unique charm of Jiangnan canal cities.
The Changle Inn (Hotel) below is located in the "Shuangdong" historic neighborhood, which is currently the best preserved and largest historical block in Yangzhou City, Jiangsu Province. Entering the historic neighborhood of "Shuangdong" located in the city center, you can feel the weight and distance of its history, the natural and fresh form, and it is a rare and tranquil place. Changle Inn is mainly divided into three major areas: North, South, and Central. Yipu, Li Changle's former residence, and Huashi Garden. These three regions are endowed with different functions. Among them, Yipu (Building 1) is adjacent to one of the four famous gardens in China to the east. It was built by Li Hesheng, a money broker. Covering an area of 3300 square meters and a building area of 1800 square meters. Mainly for receiving small business teams, it is an exclusive VIP area. The only set equipped with an elevator, the two-story top-level classic suite is hidden among them. Entering the gate of Yipu, passing through a small door, and entering a small courtyard, behind a square courtyard is a traditional three bedroom two door house. Entering the west side guest room with an area of about 30 square meters is like stepping into a traditional residential building from a hundred years ago.
Yangzhou is one of the first 24 historical and cultural cities in China announced by the State Council. After the opening of the Grand Canal, this thoroughfare connecting the outer canal and the inner city gradually became the most active gathering place for commercial and cultural exchanges. After thousands of years of accumulation, the street has left behind rich historical relics and cultural relics, making it the best preserved commercial ancient street among cities along the Grand Canal in China.
After visiting Dongguan Ancient Street, we walked on foot to the famous century old shop: Yechun Garden, located at the intersection of Yangzhou moat and Yudai River, only 400 meters away from Shouxi Lake in the west. Eating morning tea at Yechun Tea House is the main reason why it attracts tourists here, and it is called a "must do thing when coming to Yangzhou" by many guides. After dinner, we can also take a walk along the moat in the antique garden. Yechun Garden was originally the private garden of Qing Dynasty poet Wang Yuyang, but the original building is nowhere to be found. What we see now is a post liberation building and not on the original site. Although it is an antique Jiangnan garden, it is very exquisite. The Yechun Tea Society located here has a history of over 200 years and is one of the "Three Springs of Yangzhou". The other two tea societies are Fuchun and Gonghechun.
There are three restaurants named 'Yechun' located in the center of Yechun Garden, and the main building of Yechun can be used for dining, but it is not a tea house. There is a thatched hut in the East Water Painting Pavilion called Yechun Tea Society (Imperial Wharf Store), commonly known as Dongyechun, facing the river and having a great environment. The Yechun Tea Society (Flower and Bird Market Store) on the west side is located outside Yechun Garden, just across the Wenyue Bridge. It has now been renamed as Lvyang Village Tea Society, but locals still prefer to call it Xiyechun. This shop was originally a century old shop and later moved outside Yechun Garden. In short, if you pursue an environment, go to Dongyechun; if you pursue an authentic "century old shop", go to Xiyechun. Both shops have good business, and during holidays, you have to compete for seats at least 6:30 in the morning. Steamed buns, especially crab roe soup buns, diced buns, and boiled shredded pork, taste great. We originally wanted to eat here, but the price was a bit crazy. A typical steamed bun costs 5 yuan, and a plate of boiled shredded buns costs 58 yuan..... We had 18 yuan for lunch elsewhere, exactly the same.
After eating and drinking enough, you can take a walk in Yechun Garden. Yechun Garden runs from east to west, and the south side of the river is lined with antique buildings such as Shui Hua Ge, Xiang Ying Lang, Shan Ying Villa, and Yu Yuan Xuan from east to west. There is an arc corridor with eaves between the Water Painting Pavilion and the Fragrant Shadow Gallery. There is a parking lot across the Fragrant Shadow Gallery, and then there is a green belt along the river. Surrounded by White Marble railings, there are stone tables and benches. If you are tired, you can sit down and have a rest. To the west, the dining villa you see is a restaurant, while the Royal Garden Pavilion sells cultural relics and antiques. The small square to the north of Yuyuan Pavilion allows you to see the locals doing morning exercises. To the north of Yechun Garden, from east to west, there are antique buildings such as Fengshi Lou, Yechun Main Building, Yuxiang Flower House, Yinhui Hall, and Wenyue Mountain House. Among them, Fengshi Lou is equivalent to a kitchen, and through the first floor glass window, one can see the chef skillfully wrapping Yangzhou buns.
Here is: Siwang Pavilion. It is one of the landmarks in the center of Yangzhou city, located in the middle of the road, 350 meters north of Wenchang Pavilion, surrounded by a variety of food, drink, entertainment and leisure activities. The Siwang Pavilion has eight sides and three floors. Unlike the white powder painted walls of Wenchang Pavilion, its walls are built with blue bricks. The building does not have lights on most nights. The Siwang Pavilion was first built in the 38th year of the Jiajing reign of the Ming Dynasty (1559 AD). It was originally a part of Jiangdu County School and later served as a watchtower for the Taiping Heavenly Army, witnessing the brutal scenes of the Taiping and Qing armies fighting. The first floor of Siwang Pavilion has doorways in all four directions, but now all four doorways are fenced off and cannot be visited inside. There are many shopping malls and restaurants in the surrounding area from Siwang Pavilion to Wenchang Pavilion, with convenient transportation. Siwangting Road, where Siwangting is located, is already a commercial street and a food street. Walking 250 meters west is Huaihai Road Food Street; 800 meters east is the historical block of Dongguan Street, where Yangzhou's specialty snacks and tourist souvenirs converge; Walk 500 meters north to have morning tea at the Yechun Tea House in Yechun Garden, which is only 400 meters away from Shouxi Lake. Due to the fact that Siwang Pavilion is not located at the intersection of the main street like Wenchang Pavilion, and most nights do not have lights on, its reputation is slightly inferior to Wenchang Pavilion.
Wenchang Pavilion was built in the 13th year of the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty (1585 AD), belonging to the architectural complex of Yangzhou Prefectural School. Yangzhou Prefectural School no longer exists, and only Wenchang Pavilion remains. Wenchang Pavilion is 24.25 meters high and is an octagonal three story brick and wood structure building. It has become a landmark due to its location in the center of Yangzhou and convenient access to food, drink, and entertainment in the surrounding area. It lights up at night. This building, located in the center of the roundabout at the intersection, is surrounded by greenery and cannot be visited inside. It is not meaningful to visit it during the day. Because Wenchang Pavilion is not in harmony with the surrounding modern buildings, and most people have to see it when traveling to the city center by car, it mainly serves as a reminder to tourists that the city center has arrived. At night, the Wenchang Pavilion turned on the lights, allowing for photography. However, because it is roughly cylindrical in shape, taking photos from any angle is almost the same. If you pass by and take one or two photos, you can continue to the next point.
The significance of Wenchang Pavilion, which is surrounded by many shops and restaurants, is almost greater than its own significance. Walking 200 meters south from Wenchang Pavilion, there are large shopping malls such as Times Square and Golden Eagle International Shopping Center (Wenhe South Road branch). It is not difficult to find trendy small shops that Xiao Qingxin likes on Wenhe North Road, Wenhe South Road, and Wenchang Middle Road. The food streets closer to Wenchang Pavilion include Siwangting Road Food Street 350 meters north and Huaihai Road Food Street 250 meters west. Walking 1 kilometer east from Wenchang Pavilion, you can go shopping in the Shuangdong Historical District (including Dongguan Street Historical District and Dongquan Gate Historical District) where Yangzhou's specialty snacks converge; Walk 800 meters north to have morning tea at the Yechun Tea House in Yechun Garden. The flavors of crab roe soup dumplings, diced buns, and boiled shredded pork are all good. 400 meters west of Yechun Garden is Shouxi Lake. In short, it is very convenient to go anywhere from Wenchang Pavilion.
We had dinner at the luxurious Yiyuan Restaurant next to Wenchang Pavilion today. The significance of eating is almost more important than it itself, because it is paid for with the Yangzhou Municipal Government's subsidy card for out of town tourists.
On the third morning, we went to 'Skinny West Lake'. The peak season ticket is 90 yuan, and the senior ticket is 45 yuan.
The following photo is: Wan Garden. The west and south sides of this area are adjacent to Shouxi Lake, with a small canal to the north and Pingshantang Road to the east, covering a total area of about 500 acres. Designed by Hangzhou Landscape Design Institute, it mainly relies on the historical and cultural background of Shouxi Lake to create a theme of flower culture, with classical historical gardens as clues, focusing on restoring and improving scenic spots such as "Stone Wall Flowing Water", "Jingxiang Bookstore", and "White Pagoda Clear Clouds" in Shouxi Lake. It has ten major functions: flower event, exhibition, sightseeing, experience, intellectual interest, leisure, education, ecology, entertainment, and aesthetics. Starting from April 18, 2007, Wanhuayuan was officially incorporated into the Shouxihu Scenic Area. Tourists can enter Wanhuayuan directly or through Wuting Bridge or the north gate of Shouxihu. Wan Garden does not charge a separate fee, and citizens and tourists can enter Wan Garden for sightseeing and sightseeing with tickets to Shouxi Lake and annual passes. Every year from April 8th to May 8th, the Yangzhou Wanhua Festival in China will be held at the Shouxi Lake Wanhua Garden.
Yangzhou Shouxi Lake is a national key scenic spot. Located in the northern suburbs of Yangzhou City, Jiangsu Province, it is known as the "Slender West Lake" due to its thin and elongated lake surface. According to data from the end of 2012, the scenic area covers an area of approximately 33.66 square kilometers. In 1988, it was listed as a national key scenic area with important historical and cultural heritage and Yangzhou garden characteristics by the State Council. The first national 5A level tourist attraction in Yangzhou.
The photo above is: Xu Yuan. To the north of Chunliu on the long embankment of Shouxi Lake, the original site was the Han Garden Taohuawu Han Garden in the early Qing Dynasty. In the fourth year of the Republic of China (1915), in memory of the martyr Xu Baoshan, the commander of the Xinhai Revolution, the Xu Baoshan Ancestral Hall was built and named Xu Yuan. Xu Garden is an ancient Han Chinese garden building that was first built in the Qing Dynasty. Located in Shouxihu Park, Yangzhou City, Jiangsu Province, the characteristic of Shouxihu is "there is a garden in the garden". Xu Yuan was built on the former site of "Taohuawu", located at the northern end of Chunliu on the long embankment of Shouxi Lake. It was originally the site of Han Yuan Taohuawu in the early Qing Dynasty. There is a lotus pond made of stacked yellow stones in the garden, with curved water outside and a pond inside, which is connected to the lake water. Guochi is called Guanxuan, taking the meaning of Du Fu's "Two orioles singing on green willows, a line of white egrets ascending to the blue sky", and named Tingli Pavilion. The entire courtyard is neat and varied. Around Xu Yuan, standing on Xiaohong Bridge, Xiaojin Mountain stands tall, and the lake suddenly opens up. Xu Garden is not large in scale, covering an area of 0.6 hectares. But the structure is appropriate, with the courtyard arranged in a staggered manner. Inside, there are scenic spots such as the Listening Oriole Pavilion, Spring Grass Pond Chanting Pavilion, and Shufeng Pavilion, which combine exquisite architectural structure and exquisite carving art, fully reflecting the wisdom and talent of the ancient Han laboring people. There are two iron pots displayed in front of the Tingli Pavilion, which are said to have been used to control water during the Xiaoliang period of the Southern Dynasties. There is also an inscription on the Iron Pot Record, which is said to be a relic from the Liang period of the Southern Dynasties, dating back more than 1400 years.
The photo below is of Hongqiao Bridge. It is one of the twenty-four scenic spots in Yangzhou, built during the Chongfen period of the Ming Dynasty, spanning across the Baohu Lake. The original bridge was a wooden red railing, hence the name Red Bridge. In the first year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty, it was rebuilt as a stone bridge. In the early years of the Qing Dynasty, the salt inspectors Ji Qing, Pu Fu, and Gao Heng successively rebuilt the bridge and built a bridge pavilion on it, changing "red" to "rainbow", which means the bridge is like a rainbow. It has been renovated into a 7.6-meter-wide 3-hole low slope bluestone bridge. Hongqiao was once famous in history, and Emperor Qianlong also wrote poems praising the scenery of Hongqiao when he visited Yangzhou.
Xiaojin Mountain is the largest island in Shouxi Lake and also the most densely populated area of buildings on the lake. The Wind Pavilion, Wind Platform, Piano Room, Muxi Bookstore, Chess Room, and Moon Temple are all concentrated here. There is a stalactite in Xiaojin Mountain, which is a relic of Song Huizong's construction of Wanshou Mountain bonsai. At that time, there was a peasant uprising in Fangla, and a lot of raw materials from Wanshou Mountain were stolen, which is a part of the Flower Stone Class. This stalactite was left in Yangzhou because it resembles a treasure ship, so it can be considered a famous stone.
The Slender West Lake in Yangzhou is actually a wider river outside the city, originally named Baoyang Lake. The name "Slender West Lake" was not widely spread until the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. During the Qing Dynasty, both Emperor Kangxi and Emperor Qianlong made six southern tours to this place and greatly appreciated its scenery. In the "Yangzhou Painting Boat Record", it is recorded that "in the 22nd year of the Qianlong reign... famous gardens were built on both sides", and at this time, the "Slender West Lake" became a famous lake that connected the landscapes of various gardens from a river channel. In addition, during the reign of Emperor Qianlong, the poet Wang Hang of Qiantang (now Hangzhou) wrote a poem called "Ode to the Baobao River": "The weeping willows continue to pick up the broken Wu, and the geese bite the rainbow bridge like a painting. It is also a pot of gold, so it should be called the Slender West Lake." This made "Slender West Lake" famous throughout the world.
Yangzhou is the 'Moon City of China', with beautiful moonlight and many places to admire the moon. 'Moon Observation' is one of them. Sitting facing west and east, with an open lake in front of it, "Moon View" stands by the railing every time the bright moon rises in the east. The two moons in the sky and water complement each other, and one can experience the wonderful artistic conception of "the moon comes to the ground, the water rises, and the clouds cover the Tian Shan Mountains".
In Shouxi Lake, there is a fishing platform that is said to have been a place for playing silk and bamboo musical instruments. However, due to Emperor Qianlong's sudden rise here to relax and fish, it has become a place for fishing music. However, the charm of Diaoyutai is not limited to that. The fishing platform of Shouxi Lake can be regarded as a model of Chinese pavilion architecture, perfectly showcasing the art of framing. The Diaoyutai Islands face the water on three sides, with only one long embankment connecting to Xiaojin Mountain. Standing at a 60 degree angle inside the pavilion, you can see the horizontal waves of Wuting Bridge from the circular entrance on the north, the majestic and elegant White Pagoda from the entrance on the south, and the beautiful scenery of Fuzhuang to the east. The Diaoyutai Islands' frame 'embodies the essence of Shouxi Lake, which corresponds to the name' Sanxing Arch Illumination 'and is built very cleverly.
In China, there are many scenic spots named after "Diaoyutai", but the Diaoyutai in Yangzhou is the smallest and most distinctive among many fishing platforms. Standing at an angle of 60 degrees from the fishing platform, one can see the horizontal waves of Wuting Bridge in the circular hole to the north, while the majestic White Pagoda can be seen in the elliptical hole to the south.
There are two types of scenic spots in the scenic area: garden within garden and hash style. For garden within garden, an inward layout is generally adopted, such as the White Pagoda Clear Cloud and Jingxiang Bookstore, which require a certain width of terrain conditions before they can be operated and arranged. However, the northern area of West Lake has a slender terrain, so the buildings are directly placed by the water's edge, and the main facade of the buildings is facing the water in an expanded and discrete outward layout, which is obviously different from the north to south pattern of Chinese residential buildings, thus highlighting the characteristics of gardens on the lake.
The most famous bridge in Yangzhou, Wuting Bridge, was built in the 22nd year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty and has a history of over 200 years. There are five wind pavilions with strong southern characteristics built on the bridge. The pavilions have treasure roofs, ceilings painted inside, and wind chimes hung outside. The piers of Wuting Bridge are made of 12 large pieces of bluestone, forming a thick and powerful "I-shaped" bridge foundation. The bridge body of Wuting Bridge is composed of winding holes of different sizes and shapes. If a boat passes under the bridge, it can be counted that there are a total of 15 bridge holes on Wuting Bridge, which are connected and interconnected.
The attractions of Yangzhou Shouxi Lake Scenic Area have always formed a large scale at the bend of the river, such as Xiaojin Mountain, Xichun Terrace, Wangchun Tower, etc. The buildings along the riverbank are mostly in the form of long strips, and the combination of buildings is mainly arranged vertically, which is consistent with the terrain of the entire scenic area and the direction of the riverbank line.
Jinjing Pavilion is a water pavilion that combines a bridge and a tower, as described in Li Dou's "Yangzhou Painting Boat Record". It has three bay eaves and heavy buildings, shaped like a character, spanning over a small river (Jia River). The left and right rooms span both sides, with an empty space in the middle for small boats to pass through. When pedestrians cross the river, they must climb up the stairs to the second floor like a bridge, and then descend the stairs from the other side to reach the opposite bank. Jinjing Pavilion is currently a mixed use building of cement and wood.
The White Pagoda is 27.5 meters high, with a waist cinched and beard shaped pagoda base below. It has eight sides and four corners, with three niches on each side. The niches are carved with statues of the twelve Chinese zodiac animals. Legend has it that in 1784, Emperor Qianlong took his sixth boat tour of Shouxi Lake in Yangzhou. Seeing the scenery around Wuting Bridge from the water, I couldn't help but regretfully say, "It's just a pity that a white tower is missing, otherwise it would look just like the spring shade of Qiong Island in Beihai." The speaker had no intention of listening, and the wealthy Yangzhou salt merchant immediately spent 100000 taels of silver to buy the design of Beihai White Tower from eunuchs. That night, he piled up a white tower with white salt packets. This is the story of "building a tower overnight" that has been passed down in Yangzhou to this day.
The photo above is' Twenty Four Bridges'. The poem comes from the famous Tang Dynasty poet Du Mu, which goes: "The green mountains are faint and the water is far away, the autumn is over and the grass in Jiangnan has not withered; on the night of the bright moon at the Twenty Four Bridges, where can the jade man teach to play the flute. The Twenty Four Bridges in the minds of Yangzhou people are composed of the Falling Sail Plank Road, Single Arch Bridge, Nine Curve Bridge, and Blowing Xiao Pavilion. The jade belt shaped arch bridge in the middle is 24 meters long and 2.4 meters wide, with 24 steps on each side of the bridge, surrounded by 24 white jade railings and 24 railings. There is still much debate about which bridge the Twenty Four Bridges refer to.
The slender West Lake in Yangzhou is separated from the Spring Tower by the Linglong Flower. It is a style architecture of Jiangnan gardens, and the building scale belongs to Xichuntai. The lower level of Wangchun Tower is divided into two rooms, one for the water courtyard and the other for the mountain courtyard, introducing the scenery of mountains and waters into the interior. Removing the doors and windows upstairs turns it into a terrace. General Xiao Li is Li Zhaodao, a famous ancient painter who co founded the Tang Dynasty's Jin Bi landscape painting school in China. It is known as' flowers are the foundation of painting, and the moon is the source of poetry '.
Xichun Terrace is the main building of the Twenty Four Bridges Scenic Area, facing Xiaojin Mountain from afar. It is also one of the "24 Scenic Spots" of Yangzhou, known as the "Spring Terrace Bright Moon". The term 'Xichun' comes from Laozi's phrase 'When people gather in front of Xichun, it's like climbing the Spring Terrace'. It refers to the bustling scene of people coming and going shoulder to shoulder in front of Xichun Terrace. Legend has it that Yangzhou salt merchants once celebrated the birthday of Emperor Qianlong here, so this scene is also known as' Chuntai Birthday Celebration '.
Fahai Temple is located south of Fuzhuang. It was first built during the Sui and Tang dynasties and rebuilt during the Yuan dynasty. In the 44th year of the Kangxi reign of the Qing dynasty (1705), it was named "Lianxing Temple" during a southern tour, but people still refer to it as "Fahai Temple". The temple is surrounded by a lake on all sides, and there is a stone arch bridge on the south side. Lotus flowers are planted under the bridge, and when they bloom, the fragrance fills the air, hence the name Lotus Fragrance Bridge. The existing buildings in the temple include Maitreya Hall, the Shakya ManiHall, Sutra Pavilion, White Pagoda and Yunshan Pavilion.
Today's lunch was at Dongyuan Restaurant next to Shouxi Lake. The price is moderate.
The 4-day trip to Zhenjiang and Yangzhou is coming to an end soon. The average cost per person is 550 yuan. Here are the train tickets back to Shanghai.
After 3 hours, return to Shanghai. Everyone take a look, do you have any good suggestions.
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