Strolling by the moat in Yangzhou
UP ChinaTravel
2024-07-24 03:28:17
0Times

I have been coming and going many times in Yangzhou in recent years due to work. I took advantage of my free time to explore the streets, alleys, gardens, and landscapes of Yangzhou, which I have introduced in my travelogue series' Visiting Yangzhou '. Don't give up walking in Yangzhou this time! This time I stayed at the All Seasons Hotel (Shouxihu Dongguan Street Branch). The hotel is located in the city center, only a hundred meters away from the iconic building of Yangzhou, Siwang Pavilion. When we have free time, we will depart from the hotel and travel through the beautiful city of Yangzhou. There is no purpose, just walking, because the beauty of Yangzhou is not only due to its scenic spots. The beauty of Yangzhou city is the beauty of details, the beauty that seeps out from the bones, and beauty is everywhere. I'm good at keeping track of my daily records, so just follow my records and wander around Yangzhou!

D1:

Walking method: Walking

Walking route: Quanji Hotel (Shouxihu Dongguan Street Branch) - Zhenhuaimen Site - Erdaohe - Gumulanyuan Stone Pagoda - Wenchang Pavilion - Siwang Pavilion - Quanji Hotel (Shouxihu Dongguan Street Branch)

Zhenhuaimen Site

Address: 50 meters south of the intersection of Beimen Outer Street and Dahongqiao Road

Starting from Quanji Hotel (Shouxihu Dongguan Street Branch), walk north along Wenhe North Road to reach the Zhenhuaimen Site by the Hucheng River. During the Ming Dynasty, Yangzhou's history was divided into old and new cities. The old city was built in the late Yuan Dynasty to the 17th year of the Zhizheng reign. It has five city gates: Haining Gate (Dadong Gate), Tongsi Gate (West Gate), Anjian Gate (South Gate), Zhenhuai Gate (North Gate), and Xiaodong Gate. The Zhenhuai Gate here is one of the city gates. The moat running east-west in front of the city gate.


Stop here for a moment and choose whether to turn left or right. Turn right today and left tomorrow. There are dense trees on the river, with branches slanting horizontally, protecting the not too wide water surface, and ancient buildings scattered among them. More and more appears quiet and elegant.

The small square brick paved leisure and fitness waterfront trail accompanies the moat. The winding paths along the river, the misty vegetation and trees, give me a surreal feeling. Walking quietly along the moat and enjoying the tranquility is naturally a pleasant thing.

The residential decoration on the street of Fengle down the moat is like Chinese Paper Cuttings, full of flavor.

The river is clear, with lush greenery on both sides. The varying shades of green are pleasing to the eyes and mind.

The New Beimen Bridge spans the moat

After crossing the New Beimen Bridge and walking west, there is no longer a waterfront trail by the river, and one must walk on a high hill. At this moment, the moat is at our right foot, and the dense vegetation makes it difficult to get close to the moat. It turns out that this moat already belongs to the Shouxi Lake scenic area. We didn't buy tickets and could only stand on the high hill and watch, making it difficult for us to have intimate contact.

Reluctantly, I walked through a small hill under the dense jungle and arrived at the moat. At this point, I was already in Shouxi Lake, but I couldn't enter the scenic area due to the river. However, from this perspective, I could see the beautiful scenery of the winding water and flowing cups at the southern end of Shouxi Lake.

Walking on the outskirts of Shouxi Lake is also full of beautiful scenery. Here, the streams and ponds are secluded and clear, exuding a serene beauty.

Do you also like everything here?

Pavilions and towers are not only available in scenic spots that require admission tickets, but can also be seen everywhere in Yangzhou.

The river channel that extends southward from Shouxi Lake is called Erdao River. The north end of Erdao River is connected to the Dahongqiao area of Shouxi Lake, and the south end is connected to Hehuachi Park via Andun River and the ancient canal. It is 1795 meters long and is an important drainage channel for the Shouxi Lake water system, as well as an important drainage channel in the urban area.

The winding water surface, fluttering willows, green river water, green vegetation, reflections and still water, a mix of reality and illusion,
Or virtual or illusory.

A bridge over Erdao River connects the two ends of Liuhu Road.


The hibiscus flowers in front of the residential houses in Taoyuan Lane are flourishing.

The alley is quiet with few pedestrians.

Walking and looking back, the view of Liuhu Road from different angles is another sight.

The residential houses in Yangzhou are full of flavor. The corners of the arc, different flower windows, scattered eaves, art, and romance are everywhere.

Follow the Erdao River all the way to Siwangting Road.

I didn't walk on the main road, but continued south along the banks of the Erdao River, with clear water and green willows along the way.


Occasionally appearing on hydrophilic small platforms, citizens are directly fishing for fish.

The men sitting in the courtyard are playing poker.


And the handsome dog adds a bit of fun to this peaceful scene.

A bridge spans Erdao River on Wenchang Middle Road, where we walk onto the main road - Wenchang Middle Road.


Ancient Mulan Garden Stone Pagoda
Address: Huizhange Office Building, Guangling District, Yangzhou City

There is a stone tower on the green island in the middle of Wenchang Middle Road. This is the Tang Dynasty stone pagoda - the ancient Mulan Garden stone pagoda. The stone pagoda has five layers and six corners, with Buddha statues on top and carved dragon, phoenix, cow, horse and other patterns on the stone railing of the Sumeru pedestal. Arches are opened on the first, third and fifth layers, and there are flying eaves between each layer, with patterns carved on the edges of the eaves. The shape is ancient and the style is solemn.

Continue walking on Wenchang Middle Road. Wenchang Road is the "Ten Mile Long Street" of Yangzhou, which runs through the east-west direction of the city.

This road is full of flowers, beautiful.

Wenchang Pavilion
Address: Northeast corner of Jinying International Shopping Center, Guangling District, Yangzhou City

Arriving at the intersection of Wenchang Middle Road and Wenhe Road is the landmark building of Yangzhou - Wenchang Pavilion. Wenchang Pavilion was built in the Ming Dynasty. The pavilion is 24.25 meters high. It is an octagonal three storey brick and wood structure building. The pyramidal roof attic style building is similar to the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest in the Temple of Heaven in Beijing. The bottom floor of Wenchang Pavilion is octagonal, with arches on all sides that connect to the street. The second, third, and second floors of the pavilion are cone-shaped and surrounded by windows. The triple eaves on the third floor are shrunk to form an umbrella layer by layer. After being pyramidal roof, the roof is closed with a vase, and the top is an ellipsoid.

Siwang Pavilion

Address: No. 9 Crab Lane, Siwangting Road, Guangling District, Yangzhou City

Traveling north on Wenchang Pavilion, walking along Wenhe North Road, reaching the intersection of Wenhe Road and Siwangting Road is the Siwangting Pavilion, which was first built in the 38th year of the Ming Jiajing reign (1559). The pavilion is a brick and wood structure, with eight sides and three floors, and a pyramidal roof style tile roof. There are arches on all four sides of the ground floor that connect to the cross street, hence it is called the "Street Crossing Pavilion". 2、 Surrounded by antique window grilles and partitions on three levels. There are eight flying horns on each floor of the pavilion, a total of 24 on the third floor. Each flying horn is equipped with wind chimes, which sound melodious when blown by the wind.

After passing through the Siwang Pavilion for a hundred meters, I returned to the hotel. There was a fruit on the fruit stall at the entrance of the hotel, which looked like a chicken's mouth. It was the first time I had seen it and I was very curious.

The vendor struggled to speak in dialect for a long time, but I still didn't quite understand. It took a software to find out the original identity of this thing. This fruit is called Chicken Head Rice, also known as Su Gao. It is a type of water chestnut and one of the Eight Immortals of Water. It is the seed kernel of the aquatic herbaceous plant water chestnut in the water lily family, and is divided into two finished products: fresh and dry rice. Goushi is its dried rice, which is well-known and often used in sweet soups. It looks like this when it's fresh, super cute, and can be considered as having gained some knowledge.

D2:

Walking method: Walking

Walking route: Quanji Hotel (Shouxihu Dongguan Street Branch) - Zhenhuaimen Site - Yechun (Yumatou Branch) - Yumatou - Cici Tianning Temple - Caiyi Street - Dadongmen Bridge - Tanghuai - Yangzhou Eight Eccentrics Memorial Hall - Quanji Hotel (Shouxihu Dongguan Street Branch)

Take a break and continue walking. Today, turn right from the Zhenhuaimen ruins and walk east along the moat.

Adjacent to the Old Beimen Bridge is the famous Yechun in Yangzhou.

Yechun (Yumatou Store)
Address: No. 8 Fengle Xia Street, Hanjiang District, Yangzhou City

A school of Chinese classical architecture built by the water, with natural water scenery, winning with water. The Yechun Tea Society has a history of 200 years. It was originally a private garden of the Qing Dynasty poet Wang Yuyang. Yangzhou City planned to connect the Shengqing Tea Society, Xiangyinglang Tea Society, Yechun Flower Society, and other tea societies along the lake to the west of the Qianlong Imperial Wharf, creating a garden. The old name "Yechun Garden" has been used.

The winding lake, pavilions, and corridors are all built along the lake.

The pavilion and corridor are half built on the water, with people sitting between them like ducks on the lake. Enjoy the most famous Yechun morning tea here, which is called a "must do thing when coming to Yangzhou" by many guides. In addition to eating, it is actually more unique to enjoy the beautiful scenery by the river while eating here. You can not only appreciate the local folk customs, but also enjoy the natural fun of ancient charm.

The pavilions and corridors are not large in size, but they are extremely layered.

There is a thatched cottage with a thatched roof and a pavilion on the southern waterfront, which is quaint, elegant, and unique. The red lanterns hanging under the thatched cottage complement the green willows in the clear water.

Yechun Garden is not only a place for eating, but also a rich garden landscape. The trees are whirling and the lake ripples. There are tall Chinese fir trees, pines and cypresses, wutong, locust trees, and ancient trees flexing in the park, which shade the sky. There are also Yangpai bonsai of different sizes, thousands of colorful goldfish, adding to the fun of spring scenery in the garden.

The water reaches here to form a wide surface, which is the confluence of the moat and the small Qinhuai River in the city. Continuing to the left is the moat, and drilling a bridge hole to the south is the Xiaoqinhuai River.

The thatched pavilion stands still by the water, the colorful dragon boat docks quietly, and the white stone fence surrounds the water on the riverbank trail, creating a scenic spot that curves freely according to the situation. The green forests on the riverbank completely block the noisy road, creating an artificial quiet area.

Parallel to the river, there are several steps up. A section of hill, paved with scattered stones, and a small pavilion built by the water.

At this moment, people have changed their perspective to view the river and the Yechun Garden. The banks are undulating and varied, with lush bamboo and wood, and clear streams reflecting the scenery.

Royal Horse Head
Address: No. 8 Fengle Xia Street, Hanjiang District, Yangzhou City

The narrow moat has been completely obscured by flowers and trees, appearing particularly deep and profound. The royal horse's head under my feet is hidden among the lush greenery. The Tianning Temple on the dock is a famous temple in Yangzhou, founded in the Jin Dynasty. Emperor Kangxi made five southern patrols, and each time he lived in the palace in the west garden of the Tianning Temple. The dock for getting up and down the Loong Boat is at the foot of the temple.

The Imperial Wharf is built with bluestone and has withstood more than 200 years of wind and rain, remaining intact and sturdy as ever. It is now the starting point of the "Qianlong Water Tourist Line".

Imperial decree bestowed upon Tianning Temple

Address: No.3 Fengle Street, North of Yangzhou City

The vermilion wall and the imperial edict bestowed upon Tianning Temple by the gate of Dahongsi Temple. Founded in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, it was named "Tianning Temple" during the Zhenghe period of the Northern Song Dynasty. It was rebuilt in the Hongwu year of the Ming Dynasty and ranked first among the eight ancient temples in Yangzhou during the Qing Dynasty. Emperor Kangxi once stayed here during his southern tour. The Shanmen Hall of Tianning Temple has a single eave gable roof with a width of 3 bays. The upper end is embedded with a stone plaque that reads "Imperial Edict to Tianning Temple". In front of the Shanmen Hall, there are two adorable stone lions on both the east and west sides.

As soon as you enter the door, rows of osmanthus trees and flowers bloom in full bloom, filling the garden with enchanting fragrance.

The architectural complex of Tianning Temple has a symmetrical and rigorous layout, and is even more majestic against the backdrop of lush trees. After many repairs, the temple now has a mountain gate hall, the Temple of Heavenly Kings, the the Shakya ManiHall, Huayan Pavilion, and corridors, side halls, etc.


Unfortunately, we went on Monday and the museum is closed. We were unable to enter the indoor area for a visit, so we had to take a walk around the periphery to see the temple architecture and garden scenery.

The Hall of Heavenly Kings is also a single eaved gable mountain with corridors on all four sides,


The big square, two huge ginkgo trees on the square, and the the Shakya ManiHall are located on the platform. Under the ginkgo tree, there is a glass cover that houses the Qianlong's "Southern Tour Record" monument.

There is a stone turtle lying under another ginkgo tree.


The main hall on the top of the double eaved gable mountain


There is a large square between the the Shakya ManiHall and the Temple of Heavenly Kings.

The bronze statue of the "Eight Eccentrics of Yangzhou" on the square, a sculpture similar in size to a real person, reproduces the scene of the "Eight Eccentrics of Yangzhou" dating activity back then. The "Eight Eccentrics of Yangzhou" share similar spirits and interests, often gathering together at Tianning Temple to discuss scriptures, art, practice Zen, and showcase their skills.

The Ten Thousand Buddhas Building behind the the Shakya ManiHall is a three story scripture collection building with seven columns and a grand scale.

The Wanfo Tower is the most revered Buddhist temple in Yangzhou, with deep flowers and trees in front of the courtyard. At this time, osmanthus flowers bloom, sweet to the heart and lungs.


The unknown little red fruit adds a little color to the simple and elegant picture.


This tall and imposing Huayan Baoge, with its blue bricks and black tiles, looks much simpler compared to the bright red hall.



When we reached the northeast corner, there was actually a "Zheng Banqiao Memorial Hall". Unfortunately, the museum is closed. Only by looking outside at the lush bamboo and elegant green brick walls can we also symbolize the quality and style of Zheng Banqiao!

In addition to the grand halls along the central axis of the temple, there are two east-west corridors on both sides of the temple, each about 100 meters long. There are corridors and side halls on one side of the corridor.

The road between the annex hall and the main hall is paved with blue bricks. The vegetation on both sides of the road is staggered with red flowers and green leaves, which is really beautiful.

In autumn, except for the osmanthus flowers planted in the garden, the fragrance fills the garden. There are also golden pomelos and red persimmons hanging all over the branches.


In the season of autumn harvest, the golden pomelos on the trees are really beautiful.

The houses in the annex are now all antique sales shops. This is one of the birthplaces of Yangzhou antique market. Antique dealers operate in the wing rooms on both sides of Tianning Temple, where antique enthusiasts who love Taobao can find their favorite items.


And people like me are just watching the excitement.

There are various antiques by the door under the corridor

There is a large water tank in front of the shop in the corridor, with various coins flashing in the tank.


Perhaps it's because of Monday? There are very few tourists here, and it is said to be a relatively large antique market in Yangzhou. Although there are many shops, the popularity is cold, and even many shops have iron general doors. Without the bustling scene of the imagined antique market, it may be that things are different now, or perhaps because it's not their day to go to the market, the popularity is cold!


Looking back at Tianning Temple, it is different from the traditional temple we imagine. It is not as solemn as other temples, but more like a residential building. When the museum was closed on Monday, there was no visit to the museum, which lost some essence. However, because the overall atmosphere of the temple is very quiet, it is also very pleasant to go around here.

After leaving Tianning Temple, continue walking along the north-south direction of Tianning Gate Street in front of the gate.

The small streets and alleys of Yangzhou are my own


From ordinary residential courtyards, it can be seen that Yangzhou people are skilled in living.

The

In this small courtyard with a small area in the small streets and alleys, there are various traditional stone carvings, Chinese style buildings, and Chinese style courtyards. This is the activity center of the Jiangsu Collectors Association Yangzhou.


Caiyi Street

Address: Guangling District, Yangzhou City

The southern end of Tianningmen Street intersects with Caiyi Street. Caiyi Street, as the name suggests, is an ancient street full of stories and an important passage connecting Wenhe Road and Guoqing Road. We didn't go towards the bustling Dongguan Street on the east side, but went west along Caiyi Street.

Dadongmen Bridge
Address: Guangling District, Yangzhou City

The Dadongmen Bridge, an ancient bridge built in the Ming Dynasty, connects Dadongmen Street and Caiyi Street.


Standing on the Dadongmen Bridge, watching the scenery on both sides of the Qinhuai River. The Xiaoqinhuai River is an inland river running north-south within Yangzhou city, flowing into the ancient Grand Canal. After the 24th year of the Jiajing reign of the Ming Dynasty, a new city was built in Yangzhou, which became the boundary river and main road between the old and new cities, and began to prosper. The Xiaoqinhuai River and its surrounding neighborhoods were once the busiest area in Yangzhou during the Qing Dynasty, bearing witness to the rise and fall of ancient cities during the Ming and Qing dynasties.


From a long trail on the left side of the coast, it can be seen that the terrain here is relatively high, which is the highest part in the ancient city of Yangzhou.

The Yangpai Gate Tower, Feiyan Pavilion, Horsehead Wall, and Clear Water Brick Wall form important landscape features along Caiyi Street. As National Day approaches, every shop is adorned with a small national flag, creating a festive atmosphere.

There is a former residence of Zhu Ziqing in Yangzhou, and I have always wanted to visit it. I went to Yangzhou twice last year, but unfortunately I couldn't get what I wanted. The first time was when we walked to the entrance of the alley, and the tourists who came out of there told us not to go because it was being renovated inside. The second time I wandered around, it was already around 5 pm and I had finished work. This time I was still thinking about it, but when I thought about Monday, the museum might be closed, so I found a phone number online to inquire. Feeling a little excited, he picked up the phone and asked the other person, "I want to go to Zhu Ziqing's house..." At that moment, he laughed his companion to the ground. The response received was indeed as expected. Missed it again. I still have some time, thinking about going to the Eight Monsters Memorial Hall to have a look. Although there are concerns about closing on Monday, as it is located in Tuoling Lane near the hotel and only 200 meters away from the alley, let's give it a try!


Tang Huai
Address: Guangling District, Yangzhou City

Just a few steps into Tuoling Lane, there is a locust tree surrounded. Strangely, the trunk of the locust tree is emaciated, but the crown is still as graceful as a canopy, which looks like an ancient tree that has gone through many vicissitudes. An old man enthusiastically led us to explain the story of the locust tree.

So this is a Tang locust tree. On a White Marble stone tablet on the bluestone wall of the Sophora Tree Courtyard, the word "Tang Huai" is engraved, and the experience of this tree is told. It was originally recorded in the Biography of the Chief Marshal of Nanke, written by Li Gongzuo of the Tang Dynasty - it is the "Nanke" in the "Nanke Dream".

Yangzhou Eight Eccentrics Memorial Hall

Address: No. 18 Tuoling Lane, Guangling District, Yangzhou City

Continuing along the alley, not far away is the Yangzhou Eight Eccentrics Memorial Hall. What surprised us was that this place is still open on Mondays, with free admission. How great!


This memorial hall is built on the exterior of the Western Temple, the former residence of Jin Nong. The Western Temple was originally a sheltered temple built by the river during the Sui Dynasty. It was named "Western Zen Temple" by Emperor Taizong of Tang, Li Shimin. In the first year of Emperor Yongzhen's reign (805 AD), it was relocated here and later destroyed by war. The current 'Western Temple' was rebuilt in the fifth year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty (1372). After restoration, this place has become a memorial hall for the Eight Eccentrics of Yangzhou, which opened on November 22, 1993, the 300th anniversary of the birth of Zheng Banqiao.

Raise your foot and enter the hallway. There is a lacquer carved screen in the middle, and on the front of the screen is a poem about the Eight Eccentrics of Yangzhou from the late Qing Dynasty painter Ling Xia's "Tian Yin Tang Ji".

On the back is Zheng Banqiao's calligraphy work 'Song Blows Ancient Yangzhou'.


The memorial hall is mainly composed of six parts: the entrance hall, the corridor, the main hall, the exhibition hall, the Jin Nong mailing room, and the East Garden


The existing ancient building, the Nanmu Hall from the Ming Dynasty, is now the main exhibition hall of the Yangzhou Eight Eccentrics Memorial Hall. The Ming Dynasty main hall on the top of the double eaved gable mountain is also the oldest surviving main hall building in Yangzhou. In the center of the courtyard in front of the palace is a huge iron pot, which has a history of 14500 years. Several seemingly randomly combined sculptures have different styles, and the enlarged red print is particularly eye-catching.

The main exhibition hall is currently hosting an exhibition of Zhang Zhenjia's oil paintings titled 'Remembering the Original Aspiration, Remembering the Party, and Revisiting the Long March of the Red Army'.


The core of this exhibition is to retrace the Red Army's Long March, experience the hardships of the Long March, commemorate revolutionary martyrs, and inherit the spirit of the Red Army.


The 40 oil paintings exhibited in the exhibition are masterpieces created by Zhang Zhenjia, starting from Ruijin and following the route of the Red Army's Long March that took him several months to retrace his steps.


These paintings have distinct themes, bright colors, fresh art style, and profound artistic conception.

There are long corridors on both the east and west sides of the main hall.


The gallery displays the Eight Eccentrics of Yangzhou calligraphy and painting, showcasing the individual creations of each calligrapher and painter.

These calligraphy, painting, and stone carvings of the "Eight Eccentrics of Yangzhou" recreate the charm of traditional Chinese stone inscriptions.

Carving of a stone monument surrounded by emerald bamboo.

The entire memorial hall is filled with the charm of Jiangnan gardens.


The color contrast of the building is strong, with white walls and dark red painted columns. The various flower windows on the white wall are full of vitality. Cuizhu naturally frames the scene in the window frame, proudly stretching out.


Garden elements are everywhere, perfectly combining natural scenery with humanistic paintings.

Xiaoting, rockery, green bamboo and cypress, both delicate and resilient. Create a clean and serene atmosphere.

Blue gray brick walls, black tiled roofs, deep vermilion red gates, a simple and solemn hall, guarded by a ginkgo tree and a hibiscus flower behind the hall.


The tall millennium ginkgo tree, with both height and depth, silently exudes extraordinary charm.

The representative figure of the Eight Eccentrics, Jin Nong, lived in the temple in his later years. To the northwest of the main hall of the Western Temple is the Jin Nong Residence. The tall and lonely figure of Jin Nong in his later years is in this small courtyard.

The Qionghua tree at the entrance of Jin Nong's residence

After entering, there is a courtyard. On both sides of the courtyard are houses. In the hall in front of the courtyard, there is a couplet hanging at the entrance of the hall: "And drink fine wine with the young man; and even glimpse the ancient world of opening strange books

On one side of the wall, the character "fu" hangs high.

The side hall is now a cultural museum of a wealthy family in Yangzhou, where there are some wooden handicrafts at reasonable prices. You can find what you like inside. The sandalwood combs from Yangzhou cost 100 yuan for five pairs, which are affordable and exquisite. I bought some to give back to my best friend.

The courtyard is not large, but it appears extremely rich layer by layer through the architectural hierarchy.

Looking through the door at the scenery in the courtyard, the beautiful garden landscape and profound cultural heritage complement each other.

A building with white walls and blue tiles, surrounded by a small courtyard that exudes quiet elegance. On the gradually yellowing lawn, there are low green holly trees, tall green ginkgo trees, and scattered stones with the calligraphy of the Eight Monsters as design elements, which are very eye-catching. It's not very big here, but it's very flavorful. The place is not big, and it's worth taking some time to explore.

After a few days of work in Yangzhou, I took a break and walked around this familiar city. Whether you come to Yangzhou for a purposeful or unintentional walk, you will be pleasantly surprised. Yangzhou is a city that is enduring and flavorful.

The "Hulk" flows smoothly and quietly stops at the platform. Many people have nostalgic scenes of green cars, and the appearance of the Hulk has attracted a lot of camera flashes.

This is the CR200J Fuxing power concentrated high-speed train running between Nanjing and Qidong on the newly completed Ningqi Railway. I remember that to go to Qidong in July, you still need to transfer to a car in Nantong. In two months, you can take the "Green Giant" with a speed of 160 kilometers per hour directly to Qidong.

See you again in Yangzhou!

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