"Fireworks fall under Yangzhou in March," said the ancient poem.
In addition to the beautiful scenery, Yangzhou also has a vast canal culture, amazing world heritage, rich and exquisite traditional food, and wonderful scenery that makes people dream of.
However, by chance, I met Yangzhou several times during the beautiful autumn season. The autumn is crisp and fragrant, and the golden osmanthus smells fragrant. Walking around and eating in Yangzhou for three days is no less comfortable and comfortable than the fireworks in March.
Stay at the Slender West Lake Hot Spring Resort next to Slender West Lake and soak in the first hot spring in autumn.
At the Yangzhou banquet, have a rural banquet similar to Mr. Wang Zengqi's.
Climb the wall of Songjia City, which is over 800 years old, and imagine the traffic and fireworks of the past in the autumn wind.
Stay at the Songcheng Resort Hotel and have morning tea at the famous Quyuan on the first floor of the hotel.
Liu Yuxi wrote in his poem, I said that autumn is better than spring. Yangzhou in October is as exciting and lively as spring.
With the rustling autumn wind, the idea of soaking in the hot spring also rose.
It takes more than three hours on the high-speed train from Qingdao to go straight to Yangzhou Slender West Lake Hot Spring Resort. This is the second time I have stayed at this hotel after 19 years of seeing each other. A small single-family villa with blue tiles and white walls, with a hot spring pool in the courtyard.
After saving the travel, I settled my luggage, changed my swimsuit, and couldn't wait to sink into the hot spring. The hotel prepared hot spring afternoon tea, snacks, fruits and red wine early. The water temperature of the hot spring can be adjusted, and it is easy to switch between hot and cold water.
It happened that the season was changing and I accidentally caught a cold. After soaking in the hot spring for about 20 minutes, I felt comfortable and my nose that had been blocked for several days became unobstructed.
The rooms at the resort have a light Chinese style. Beds, tables and chairs, lantern decorations, a mixture of Chinese tradition and minimalist style, and all facilities are available.
The housekeeper at the resort was the most attentive. He listened to me coughing a few times while chatting during the day. When he returned to his room at night, he found stewed rock sugar pear, which warmed his stomach and heart.
Opening the door, the entire resort looked like a large garden. Green greenery everywhere combines the pleasant natural landscape with the design style of Chinese classical gardens, making it elegant everywhere.
In addition to the private hot springs equipped in the rooms, Slender West Lake Hot Spring Resort has 40 public hot spring pools with different functions, both indoors and outdoors.
Slender West Lake hot spring water is taken from a hot spring water vein more than 2000 meters underground. The outlet water temperature reaches 70 degrees. It is rich in a variety of high-quality trace elements and minerals. It belongs to the domestic natural metasilicate and lithium hot spring and has very excellent medical value. It has good effects on improving skin diseases, arthritis, cardiovascular and cerebrovascular diseases, gastrointestinal function, promoting metabolism and regulating the nervous system.
My favorite is this "hot pot hot spring".
Of course, it's not a real hot pot. In the hot spring pool shaped like a duck pot, there are models of peppers and vegetables floating. It's very interesting.
The outdoor hot spring area is full of greenery, with winding paths leading to secluded areas. Each hot spring pool has a nice name. Amid the gurgling music, wandering on the stone road, soaking in the hot springs has become the most romantic and gentle thing in this autumn.
The hot spring should not be soaked for too long at a time. After half an hour, you can go to the resting area to rest for a while.
There are theaters, fitness and yoga rooms, ktv, Zhenweifang restaurant, rest boxes, video game rooms, children's playground, chess and card rooms, etc., which are fully functional and allow men, women and old to find their favorite place to rest.
You can also wrap it up and go outdoors and drink a cup of Yangzhou's characteristic green poplar spring and fireworks red in the lush nature. The soup is green in color and has a rich taste.
Listening to the tea ceremony teachers talk about how to make tea and the stories behind them, this slowing down pace is what a trip to Yangzhou should look like.
The fate with Mr. Wang Zengqi started with Gaoyou duck eggs in books when he was young. He wrote that he had experienced the vast sea and difficulty in water, and I really didn't like salted duck eggs in other places. Later, after reading many human delicacies, plants, and dramas written by Mr. Wang, I still dreamed of this salted duck egg.
Unexpectedly, the first time I ate authentic Gaoyou double yellow eggs was at a Yangzhou banquet.
Stay at Slender West Lake Hot Spring Resort and eat at Yangzhou Banquet. Traditional Huaiyang delicious food is combined with Yangzhou local characteristics, and the dishes are exquisite and nutritious.
The Wang Zengqi rural banquet personally authorized by Mr. Wang Zengqi's son, the dishes are all delicious dishes that Mr. Wang loves.
Cold dishes, hot dishes, and fine dishes are all extremely exquisite and heart-to-heart. Even a bite of fried dough sticks goes through layers of processes. Ha, as expected, Lao Wang is a real foodie.
The six-flavor cold dishes in the splendid cold dishes, such as Drunken Roche shrimp, cattail wrapped meat, salty platter, Jieshou dried tea, fish jelly in fish, and poplar radish, are all exquisite in appearance and exquisite in ingredients.
Nine hot dishes: pickled vegetables, old chicken and cigu soup, stewed yellow croaker with fresh bamboo shoots, returned fried dough sticks stuffed with meat, oily Gaoyou Wang tofu, a casserole and beautiful family portrait, farmhouse lentils and steamed taro, fried fat chrysanthemum with spring water...
Every dish is fresh to me, and I make traditional Huaiyang cuisine with my own creative flavor.
After the meal, there were three detailed dishes in Guangling: delicious order of Shuanghui, bacon and vegetable rice, and fruits from each guest, ending Wang Zengqi's meal of the same kind.
Only by appreciating Yangzhou customs in the food can you feel the authenticity of being in a foreign land between your lips.
Breakfast in the morning was also served at the Yangzhou Banquet. Only then did I realize that Yangzhou people can be so tough. A big bag of alkali noodles is enough for me to eat.
Follow local friends in Yangzhou to learn how to eat crab roe dumplings.
Poke 4 small holes evenly in the skin and suck out the rich soup from the holes. The delicacy of the crab lingers in the teeth for a long time.
Pine seed roasted cakes, crab seed roasted cakes, crystal meat, tangerine peel beef meatballs... It is said that these crispy sesame cakes are the most popular, and many diners will pack an extra serving to take away.
In the past, we only knew that Guangzhou morning tea was gluttonous, but now we discover that Yangzhou morning tea is equally rich and delicious.
The breakfast resort sleeps until you wake up naturally, leisurely go out for a meal of morning tea, or simply ask room service to deliver food to your room. Of course, this magnificent Yangzhou morning tea cannot be missed.
Hangzhou's West Lake is famous. When traveling in Yangzhou, there is also a beautiful lake. During the Qianlong years, poet Wang Hang came to Yangzhou because of his fame and called it Slender West Lake.
On the crisp autumn days, I wandered along the bank of Slender West Lake with my friends, and I truly felt the famous Yangzhou saying,"The flowers and willows on both sides of the Taiwan Strait are all subject to the water, all the way to the mountains." It was picturesque and the scenery was beautiful.
The pavilions and pavilions are all scenery, which is also closely related to the prosperity of Yangzhou's salt industry during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. At that time, due to the age of Slender West Lake, the center of the lake was silted up. Salt merchants invested in dredging and built many pavilions and pavilions on the east and west banks.
The green mountains are faintly distant and the water is far away, and the grass in the south of the Yangtze River has not yet withered at the end of autumn. Even without the fireworks that brought everything back to life in March, Yangzhou in autumn still has unyielding vitality.
During the tour, I also heard a story from my friends. It is said that during Qianlong's southern tour, salt merchants temporarily built a bridge made of salt in the lake in order to please your heart.
Nowadays, I don't have the opportunity to admire Yanqiao, but when I climbed the Xichun Terrace and stood high above, I was deeply shocked by the "Spring Terrace and Bright Moon", one of Yangzhou's "Twenty-Four Scenes". Writer Yu Dafu once commented: The bright moon on the 24th Bridge is one of the four major autumn colors in southern China.
The architectural style around Xichun Terrace fully reflects the grand style of the royal garden. All buildings are made of green glazed tiles and red buildings and white jade bodies and gold roofs.
If you want to see the wonderful scenery around Slender West Lake, the most pleasant place is the boating lake.
Songjiacheng, Daming Temple, Guanyin Mountain, Slender West Lake... many must-see places for tourists to Yangzhou are connected by a river. With the wind blowing on the boat, in the cold but not bleak autumn wind of Yangzhou, I can see greenery in front of me and the scenery is overwhelmed.
The swan family I accidentally discovered was so cute that I couldn't help but pick up the camera and press the shutter many times.
There is also the coolness of the water. The courage of the uncle who came to swim is amazing.
During the Song Dynasty, there was a saying that Yangzhou had three cities in one place, namely Song Dacheng, Song Jiacheng, and Baoyou City. Songjia City, as the name suggests, is sandwiched between Baoyou City and Song Dacheng, and has a history of more than 800 years.
Although today's Songjiacheng Archaeological Site Park was rebuilt on the original site, we can still see traces of life more than 800 years ago.
For example, the war defense function of the city wall uses a brick-roofed circular gate hole instead of a wooden lintel square gate hole. This is because of the invention of gunpowder in the Song Dynasty, which also puts forward a stronger requirement for the gate as a war defense function.
The city wall is connected to a bridge. In case of war, there are strong ropes to retract the bridge to block enemy attacks.
Go up the stairs and climb the city wall. The bricks and tiles, columns and lanterns here all seem to be like the Song Dynasty. Presumably at that time, no matter day or night, there would always be people patrolling the city wall to protect the peace of the city.
Today, Songjiacheng has been developed into a sports and leisure park, with pedestrian trails around the city, bicycle lanes around the city, cage football fields, basketball courts, tennis courts, volleyball courts, outdoor badminton courts, table tennis halls, badminton halls, basketball halls, tennis halls and a variety of sports equipment. It is a good place for citizens to walk, wedding photos, dating relaxation, sightseeing, and ball competitions.
By the way, there is also a bookstore in Songjia City, and this antique atmosphere is particularly rare. Every artifact exudes a strong classical temperament and is exquisite and heart-to-heart.
Order a cup of Yangzhou's characteristic Green Yangchun tea. Thanks to the volcanic traces of the ancient times of Nashan and the warm and humid climate, the green Yangchun produced has a fresh taste, clear soup color, elegant aroma, and tender and uniform leaf base. Supply exceeds demand in Yangzhou alone, which is also a must-have feature when visiting Yangzhou.
There are ancient books everywhere, and the eyes are full of antique artifacts. Whether it is furniture or calligraphy and paintings, it all demonstrates the bookstore's good taste.
On the second night of my trip to Yangzhou, I stayed at the Slender West Lake Songcheng Resort Hotel, just across the wall from the east gate of Songjiacheng.
Although it is adjacent to Slender West Lake Park and the thousand-year-old temple Daming Temple, it enjoys the beautiful scenery of Slender West Lake Scenic Area and has a superior location. But because we don't walk along the street, we can find peace in the middle of the chaos and a paradise outside the world. Jialu is in the human realm without the noise of horses and horses. It is exactly what my favorite hotel looks like during my trip.
The 107 rooms have a variety of room types and styles. What they like most is the scenery outside the window. When the curtains are opened, the eyes are full of green, and when the windows are opened, the fragrance of cinnamon fills the sky.
The housekeeper delivered fruit snacks early, which were exquisite and compact. So I wasn't in a hurry to pack my luggage and go to dinner. I first enjoyed this pleasant afternoon time amidst the delicious food. This is the most beautiful autumn scenery in Yangzhou, and time will be wasted on beautiful things.
The room has a simple style, comfortable bedding, and everything you need. Many technological elements have also been introduced to make passengers 'accommodation more convenient and comfortable.
Coffee machines, dehumidifiers, disinfection cabinets, multi-function toilets with built-in heating... even hair dryers are Dyson's,"spoiling" customers from every detail.
In addition to the guest rooms, the hotel also has supporting facilities such as a conference room, gym, self-service laundry and more than 100 underground parking spaces. The intelligent housekeeper "Xiao e" in the hotel lobby can also meet the guests 'zero-contact delivery service needs.
During afternoon tea time, it is recommended to eat in the courtyard on the first floor of the hotel. In the peaceful and comfortable garden, in the scenery of nature, a pot of tea and a few exquisite and delicious points allow time to flow slowly.
I came across a sudden rain, but everything after the rain became greener. After a sniff, you could smell the aroma of grass.
Adjacent to prosperity and accompanied by nature, it not only has the gentleness and classicism of the ancient city of Yangzhou, but also adds modern technological elements, allowing tourists to experience the slow-paced vacation time of Yangzhou in convenience.
"Wrap water in the morning and wrap water in the evening". Drinking morning tea in the morning has become the most important meal in Yangzhou people's lives.
When you come to Yangzhou, of course, you have to have Quyuan Morning Tea.
Quyuan has long been famous for its popularity. When checking the strategy, I saw many people shouting that it would take a long time to queue, but they might not be able to get it. It is said that Emperor Qianlong visited Yangzhou six times from Jiangnan, and visited Quyuan four times. Even the name "Quyuan" was given by Emperor Qianlong.
Unexpectedly, there was an interesting garden on the first floor of Slender West Lake Songcheng Resort Hotel. This is also the first branch of Quyuan, ranking first in Yangzhou Huaiyang Cuisine Environment List on major lists.
Boiling dried shredded silk is one of Quyuan's signature dishes. The extremely fine dried shredded silk is added with shrimp seeds, making it more delicious and luxurious.
Jade roasted cakes have thin and fresh green skin, and the green color of the green vegetables filling is crystal clear like jade, hence the name.
Pour soup and steam dumplings into one bite and you will have rich soup. The five diced dumplings balance the flavors of the five ingredients: diced ginseng, diced chicken and diced meat, diced bamboo shoots, and diced shrimp. They are delicious and delicious.
Crystal meat, shrimp meat, and chicken soup all make the meat fresh and delicious. The kung fu of Huaiyang cuisine is probably as simple as it appears, but there is enough effort inside. For example, a seemingly simple shrimp seed wonton uses a total of 17 ingredients in the soup. How can I know if I don't taste it carefully and listen to what people say?
The plan for the day lies in the morning, and naturally the morning tea time should be chosen in the place with the best environment.
Quyuan also has garden morning tea, which arranges delicious snacks in the outdoor garden on the first floor of the hotel. Listening to the singing of birds and the wind, you can pick up a piece of oil cake and a piece of shrimp seed noodles. This unique flavor of Yangzhou is intoxicating.
I finally understood where Emperor Qianlong's obsession with Yangzhou came from. There are delicious food, beautiful scenery, and a leisurely slow pace of life. If I were a busy person every day, I would also like to steal a few days of leisure and enjoy the gifts of life only in this breeze and moon.
After eating the Yangzhou banquet and the morning tea in Quyuan, I became more yearning and curious about Yangzhou's delicious food.
It is said that all the best players are in the private sector, and all the delicious food is on the streets. The snacks in the streets and alleys also showed me in all aspects that Yangzhou is a city of food.
When I came to Yangzhou in early 2015, I heard of the famous "Three and Four Beautiful" pickles, and naturally I couldn't miss them this time. Returning to the old place, this old shop on Dongguan Street is still as simple and unpretentious.
During the Qing Dynasty, Yangzhou pickles were listed as royal dishes and won the International Expo Medal and the West Lake Expo Gold Medal. Before the liberation of China, there were more than 100 Yangzhou sauce shops, most of which were shops in front of the shop and then made later. Every family had their best tricks, among which Sanhe and Simei were the most. After liberation, after public-private partnerships and enterprise restructuring, in 1998, Sanhe and Simei merged into Yangzhou Sanhe Simei Pickled Vegetable Co., Ltd.
Therefore, seriously, it is a century-old store.
Nowadays, Sanhe and Simei are open all over the streets and alleys of Yangzhou, but Dongguan Street has been open for a long time and has the most authentic taste.
Buy a few cans of different pickles and bring them to friends as souvenirs.
Baota cuisine is rare in the north. When I first saw it, I thought it was an insect. I was so scared that I took a few steps back and dared to taste it. Only then did I find it crisp and delicious and very refreshing.
When you come to Sanhe and Simei, you must buy pickled cucumber. Crispy taste, not too strong or too strong, just right.
Dozens of different pickles are placed in a row, and anyone who chooses the taste can find their favorite ingredients.
The pickles shop has long been open at the corner of Dongguan Street, which is also the most representative old street in Yangzhou. The ancient canal in the east and Guoqing Road in the west, with a total length of 1122 meters.
Dongguan Street used to be not only an important water and land transportation route in Yangzhou, but also a center for commerce, handicrafts, and religious culture. The streets are bustling and lined with businesses. There are many businesses and business is booming. There are nearly 100 Lu Chen Xing, Youmi Fang, Fresh Fish Shop, Eight Xian Shop, Melon and Fruit Shop, and Bamboo and Wood Shop.
Today's Dongguan Street is still lively and is a must-visit place for traveling in Yangzhou.
There are many handmade shops and gourmet shops on the street, as well as many Yangzhou characteristic experiences. Pedicure and pick out ears to get rid of the fatigue of a day's travel.
The Big Qilin Pavilion, which started in 1901, is a veritable century-old shop. There are hundreds of varieties of cakes, each of which integrates color, aroma, taste and shape. When French President Jacques Chirac visited Yangzhou in March 2003, he praised the pastries of the Big Kirin Pavilion and specially bought Chinese pastries such as Beijing Fruit Powder and Sesame Cakes from the Big Kirin Pavilion to bring them back to France.
Now the Big Qilin Pavilion has opened dozens of branches, including one on Dongguan Street.
The most popular Jingguo flour is made from glutinous rice, flour, vegetable oil and sugar. It also sells the xylitol version affectionately to take care of the elderly with high blood sugar. Peach crisp has two flavors: sweet and salty, and is also his family's signature. Durian cake, sticky candy, sesame cake, etc. taste sweet but not greasy.
When you are tired from shopping, have a light meal at the "rough tea and light rice" on the street. The lotus root starch dumplings made on site here are well-known far and wide, and the dishes are also inexpensive and affordable. It is very suitable for ordering more and tasting carefully.
The sweet but not greasy osmanthus lotus root is round and has a strong osmanthus flavor. It is my favorite Yangzhou dessert.
Braised lion's head, Yangzhou fried rice, and Yangchun noodles are all sold in large restaurants and street shops in Yangzhou.
It is precisely this kind of ubiquitous snacks that most test the cooking skills.
The other streets next to Dongguan Street are also easy to visit. They have both the tranquility of favor and disgrace left by the prosperous history, and the leisurely atmosphere of fireworks in the market.
Turning off Dongguan Street, there is a Jiangjiaqiao Dumpling and Noodle Shop. The signature shrimp seed dumpling noodles taste good.
But I am very curious, why are noodles and wontons called dumpling noodles instead of wonton noodles?
Red bean glutinous rice balls, oil cakes, and sanding buns are also traditional snacks in Yangzhou. In his house, he closed his eyes and was not afraid of making mistakes.
Walking around the street, I even ran into a King Kong Hoof Shop. I thought it was a shop selling pig's trotters, but I didn't expect it to be a noodle shop.
Later, I heard from a friend that this was once a snack for my fathers in childhood, but now it is almost lost and rare.
"King Kong Hoof" was formerly called "King Kong Qi". It is said that when Emperor Qianlong came to Liyang, he admired this snack after tasting it. He changed his name to "King Kong navel", but because the sound of "navel" and "hoof" sound similar, it was renamed "King Kong Hoof", and now it has a history of more than 300 years.
The old-fashioned charcoal oven cooks King Kong hooves. As soon as they are taken out of the pan, the aroma of alkali noodles comes to your face. The color is golden, the skin is slightly bitter, with the aroma of charcoal-roasted, and the inside is very solid. When eaten hot, it feels like chewing earthen bread. The more you chew, the more fragrant it becomes. It is simple and down-to-earth sweetness, not overly sweet.
Throughout the ages, Yangzhou and the Canal have a long relationship. A history of the development of the Yangzhou Canal is almost a history of the development of ancient Yangzhou.
The Yangzhou China Grand Canal Museum, which just opened in Yangzhou this year, not only tells the development history of the canal, but also tells the origin of the city and the canal.
I have long heard that a ticket is hard to get, so I made an appointment early on the Mini programs. In the torrential rain, I saw the magnificent history of the canal.
The museum is located in Sanwan, Yangzhou. The main body consists of two parts: the Universiade Tower and the museum. It is 18,000 square meters, has 3 floors, and has 13 exhibition halls. It takes the development and changes of the Grand Canal as its Timeline and covers the entire Grand Canal basin in space, demonstrating the beautiful life that the Grand Canal brings to the people.
Rent an interpreter, immerse yourself in the museum's canal culture, and immersively experience the ups and downs of the canal's history.
The first exhibition hall mainly tells the changes in canal excavation in each historical period. From each exhibit, we can get a glimpse of the impact of the canal on the lives of surrounding residents and its contribution to national development.
The Tongji Canal dug by Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty is called Bianhe. In the museum, lines taken from the section of the old Bianhe River near Kaifeng, Henan Province, which is 25.7 meters long and 8 meters high, are like annual rings, clearly outlining the strata from the Sui and Tang Dynasties to the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the earliest one is more than 1400 years old, which visually demonstrates how the Grand Canal channel channel became wide to narrow until it was completely silted into a flat ground.
In Exhibition Hall 2, various types of ships are immersive displayed. You can also board a boat to simulate a cruise ship on the lake and experience the cruise ship and listen to the song immersively.
The museum has also opened up one of the exhibition halls into a retro street, restoring the streets and alleys of ancient times. Rows of goods are sold and sold, which is very lively.
Use high-tech means and sounds to show the rise and fall of the sun and the moon in ancient life, and the stars move, as if traveling through thousands of years ago and becoming an ancient person.
The coolest thing is Pavilion 13, which is a large-scale script kill + secret room escape.
Tourists transformed into the city's water supervisor, using the mystery as a line, passing through each level, completing the check-in task, and guessing the mastermind behind the scenes. During the game, you can also get a glimpse of the canal knowledge and historical changes of each dynasty.
Go to Hall 8 to experience the holographic projection.
Go and see the canal ecology, learn about the handicrafts around the canal, and listen to the canal culture around the world.
Unconsciously, I have long been amazed by the wisdom of the ancients.
In addition to the colorful exhibits, the architectural style of the museum itself is also attractive enough.
The overall building adopts the shape of a giant ship and incorporates sail elements, just like a "giant ship" docked on the bank of the Sanwan Ancient Canal in Yangzhou that is about to set sail.
It consists of five parts: the exhibition hall, the inner courtyard, the square in front of the museum, the Universiade Tower and the Jinyue Bridge. Among them, the museum, tower and bridge complement each other. Climbing the tower, you can overlook the historical landscape of "three bays and one dam".
The New Tang-style architecture combines the beauty of tradition and modernity. It was designed by Mr. Zhang Jinqiu, academician of the Chinese Academy of Engineering and chief architect of the China Architectural Northwest Design and Research Institute. The beauty of such architectural rules is integrated into the entire museum.
By the way, you must wear a pair of comfortable shoes and spend the entire afternoon in the museum. In the huge exhibition hall, you will feel tired until your feet become sore, but you will still feel like it.
History and culture, integrating science and technology, are majestic and full of innovation. Staying here all day is still not enough.
Traveling around the country, Yangzhou is still at the top of my favorite city list.
How to summarize it? It seemed to have always been lazy and never surprised by favors or insults. Its beauty must be tasted carefully from the delicious taste at every entrance, from the fragrance of osmanthus, from the warmth of the hot spring, and from the brick by brick buildings.
Its majesty, its introversion, its small home jade, and its endless taste.
They all look like the Yangzhou I love.