In 2021, winter has passed and spring has come, and the haze of the epidemic seems to gradually recede with the severe cold.

Spring returns to the capital, and you can finally stretch your body and mind in the warm sun. However, the flying Yang Xu all over the city is really annoying, making people miss Jiangnan, which is as clear and green as spring water.

So, several people got together again, couldn't help but feel the urge to move forward, and saved a week-long leisure trip to Jiangnan.

Route:

Beijing → Yangzhou → Ancient Villages in Southern Anhui → Huizhou → Xin 'an River → Kaihua County → 2badu Ancient Town (junction of Zhejiang, Fujian and Jiangxi provinces)/Jiangyan Mountain → Quzhou → Yangzhou → Beijing

We willJiangsu, Anhui, ZhejiangThree provinces:

Take a Spring River (Xin 'anjiang)，

Visit three famous states (Yangzhou/Huizhou/Quzhou），

Visit four or five ancient villages and towns (Chaji Ancient Town/Hongcun-Xidi/Xixi South Ancient Village/2badu Ancient Town），

All the way to the misty rain in Jiangnan... Let's GO!

DAY 1 Beijing → Yangzhou

April is the most beautiful season in Yangzhou. Don't miss it!

On April 10, at 6 a.m., we set off from Beijing and headed south along the highway. The spring is chilly, warm and still cold all the way. After passing Zaozhuang/Weishan Lake, it becomes soft and the spring light is bright... Nature is such a miracle.

We chose to take the Beijing-Taiwan Expressway in the first half of the year and the Beijing-Shanghai Expressway in the second half. It is said that the G3 has been built to Fujian, only the last section away. The road conditions are good!

Ignore all the scenery changes along the way and go straight to the place we yearn for-Yangzhou.

"Fireworks in Yangzhou in March"--Even if it was called "Poetry Xian", Li Bai would never have imagined that a poem he lightly downplayed would become a SLOGAN for Yangzhou tourism thousands of years later. In spring, it is difficult to find a room in hotels in Yangzhou City. This time we booked too late, likeYangzhou statePopular hotels like this are no longer available. Fortunately, I bought this HOTEL: It was opened this year, not far from Slender West Lake, has a parking lot, and the price is not expensive.

At around 7 p.m., I finally arrived in Yangzhou. The moment the car turned into the hotel parking lot, across the roadJiangjiaqiao Dumpling Noodle StoreThe sign came into my eye-tomorrow's breakfast is ready.

After settling down, hurry out to find food and stroll around. Not far away, there is an Impression Mall, with a store open at the bottom of the store.Dongyuan Xiaoguan, open 24 hours a day very friendly to long-distance travelers such as me.

Eat well, go home to sleep, recharge, and tomorrow morning--Slender West Lake!

DAY 2@Yangzhou

The first thing I did when I came to Yangzhou was of courseeat! Compared with Fuchun, Yechun, etc., which need to make an appointment, get up early, queue up, and don't know when we will be able to eat, we prefer to go to small restaurants where local residents eat. After all, if an old local store can survive without Internet celebrity support and traffic maintenance, and has a small reputation, its taste must be authentic.Jiangjiaqiao Dumpling Noodle StoreIt is such a local century-old store (Jiangjiaqiao was once an important place name in Yangzhou, but it is no longer there and only remains on the sign of the Dumpling and Noodle Shop).

I walked out of the hotel before 7 o'clock, only crossed a road, and walked inJiangjiaqiao Dumpling Noodle Store。It was still early, but there were already many diners in the store. Standing in front of the ordering counter and looking at the price list posted on the wall, there is a feeling of dazzling array. It is really good and cheap. I want to eat everything! Anyway, the more the better!

So, we ordered: shrimp seed dumpling noodles, shrimp seed wonton, bamboo shoot meat pot stickers, layer oil cake, three Ding Bao... The long-awaited stomach buds were finally satisfied.

Shrimp seed dumplings and noodles must be recommended-sufficient shrimp seeds, sufficient wontons/noodles, and strong pepper-they are delicious and warm. Over time, the taste of Yangzhou shrimp seed dumpling noodles has never changed, making people miss it! As for the price, what else can I say!

Step out of the store, take a deep breath, and let the fresh air nourish your long-dried heart and lungs. Looking up, it's cloudy and rainy, and layers of clouds and mist-it's a good day to visit the lake!

Follow the spring greenery on Siwangting Road and head east. Not long after, I saw the south gate of Yangzhou University and the Slender West Lake was not far away. Turn left on Liuhu Road and we go straight to the south gate of Slender West Lake. Amidst the shade of green trees, on one side is the garden-like Slender West Lake Campus of Yangzhou University, on the other side is the Erdao River connected to Slender West Lake, and on the other hand, there are also Lion Tower, Pingshan Banquet, and Yechun that pass by us...(Being in Yangzhou, I am eating!)

Slender West Lake, which used to be the northern suburbs of Yangzhou, is actually a winding and slender river with many private famous gardens on both sides. It can be regarded as a suburban villa for wealthy families in the past. In the old days, when Yangzhou people went to the suburbs to travel spring, most of them took boats along the river.Xiaoqinhuai RiverHead north, enter the North Moat, and then turn into Slender West Lake. The northern end of the Xiaoqinhuai River is connected to theBeimoatConnected, the scenery on both sides of the Taiwan Strait is prosperous. on the North bankplum blossom mountainThere is a centenary of Shi Kefa. The west side of Meihua Ridge is giventianning templeCao Yin once read "Complete Tang Poetry" at this moment. Outside Tianning TempleYumatou, is the place where Emperor Qianlong boarded a boat and swam in the lake.

To the west of the Imperial Pier is Yechun, and further west is Lvyang Village (also once a teahouse). In the old days, when guests visiting the lake passed by boat, they only needed to give a few instructions to the shore, and a waiter would bring out hot buns and snacks from the store and deliver them to the guests 'boats. After returning from the lake, they would return the steamer and settle the snacks. It's not too late to pay for them. This feeling of leisure and freedom is probably hard to find today.

As he spoke, he saw itHongqiao--The beginning of Slender West Lake.

During the Ming Dynasty, there was a wooden bridge with railings painted red here, hence the name "Red Bridge". During the Qing Dynasty, the wooden bridge turned into a stone bridge. From a distance, it looked like a rainbow lying on the clear waves, so it was renamed "Hongqiao". According to records, standing on the Hongqiao Bridge and looking far away, there is "Lotus Smoothing Wind" in the north, and the lotus wind is blowing; in the south, there is "Willow Lake in Spring" with sparkling willows; on the east and west, there are several huts dotted among the lush flowers and trees. No wonder a poet praised: "Yangzhou is good, the first is Hongqiao”。

However, what we see today is just an ordinary three-arched stone bridge. There are neither red railings nor corridors on the bridge. Although it is still called "Hongqiao", it has lost its interest.

At 7:30, it was a little quiet outside the south gate of Slender West Lake. The light rain has just cleared, and the air is filled with a faint fragrance of grass, which is fresh and pleasant.

Walking into the gate with the early morning people, there is a long tree-lined avenue in front of you, which is named after the old "Twenty-Four Scenes of Yangzhou"Changdi Chunliu。Flowers and willows on both sides of the long embankment are leaning against the water, and the vegetation is lush.

The most important thing is the white flowers that bloom wantonly, the branches are full of jade and the dark fragrance, which makes us reluctant to leave for a long time. This hydrange-like flower is known as "Weiyang is a flower, no one has its own kind in the world"The Qionghua. Yangzhou people have always believed that only Yangzhou hasqionghua。

Go further and you will arriveXu Yuan.Looking east across the lake, among the lush flowers and trees,Siqiao Yanyu TowerIt's vaguely visible. Climb the building in mid-spring and look into the distance. The four bridges are like misty rain, including Dahongqiao Bridge, Changchun Bridge, Chunbo Bridge, and Lianhua Bridge. Further east, we wanted to order but couldn't.Yangzhou state, also, I didn't want to book because I couldn't book it anywayQuyuan Tea House。

Just cross the small Hongqiao Bridgesmall Jinshan。Xiaojinshan was originally a small island in Slender West Lake. Because the small Hongqiao Bridge and Yuban Bridge were later built, the island was connected to both sides of the Taiwan Strait. There is a wind pavilion on the Xiaojinshan Mountain, and at the foot of the mountain there are a moon view, a blowing platform, and a piano room. It is said that these elegant names originated from Xu Zhanzhi, the prefect (Danyang Yin) in the Southern Dynasties.

After getting off the Xiaojin Mountain, crossing the Yuban Bridge, and walking leisurely along the lake. afterShuiyun wins summary, the number of tourists around slowly increased. In front of them, on a narrow small stone bridge, tourists came and went, and it was crowded for a while. Just then, I saw a tea shop by the lake. I'm a little tired, so I'll rest here for a while.

However, several shops here are all noodle shops and there is no tea! Eating noodles along the Slender West Lake is really a ruin for the scenery! So, I chatted with the landlady and asked her to make us a pot of green tea.

In the cup, the green tea leaves rolled in the water, and the gun flag stretched. Next to me, the grass was luxuriant and the spring water was as green, and I found the feeling of "sitting and drinking fragrant tea and loving this lake." Sitting by the lake and sipping tea leisurely, people would come over from time to time and inquire where we bought our tea...

Which bridge is the most famous on Slender West Lake? Of course, it is the LOGO of Slender West Lake--Lotus bridge, also calledWuting Bridge。In the past, the only places you can visit in Slender West Lake were Wuting Bridge. Farther west, reeds are overgrown and rivers are crisscrossed, and few tourists visit them. But sinceXichun TerraceIt was built in imitation, and now the west of Wuting Bridge is also crowded with tourists.

After crossing Wuting Bridge, we came tofahai temple。I remember Zhu Ziqing once wrote in his article that people all know that Fahai Temple is famousbaitaLooking from the other side of the lake, you can enjoy the "White Tower and Clear Clouds", one of the scenic spots of Slender West Lake. But in fact, the more famous thing here is-braised pig's head.

Follow the curved bridge in front of Fahai Temple and you can climbFuzhuang。Looking across the lake, standing in the water isdiaoyutai。

“The twenty-fourth bridge is still there, the waves are swaying, and the cold moon is silent. Thinking of the red medicine beside the bridge, I know who it is born every year”。We know that the old 24th Bridge was a bridge, also known asHongyao Bridge。

Go west from Wuting Bridge, it isNo. 24 Bridge。This bridge was built later and is located on the east side of the original 24th Bridge. It also provides a place for people to express their thoughts on the past.

By the way,"twenty" is pronounced as "read", not "twenty". I'm afraid northerners will read it wrong, but southerners, especially those in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, probably won't read it wrong. Because "twenty" is read as "read" in Shanghai dialect. It can be seen that many ancient sounds have been preserved in Wu dialect.

Further north from the 24th Bridge, we passed through some newly built attractions: Meilin on the Lake, Liucong on the Stone Wall, Jinquan Flower Island, Wanyuan Garden... Most of them borrowed the names of the ancient scenic spots in Yangzhou. The beautiful scenery of the garden is exquisite and beautiful, gentle and beautiful, and beautiful...

In the Qing Dynasty, Wang Hang, a native of Qiantang, came to Yangzhou and felt that the beautiful scenery he saw was comparable to the West Lake in his hometown. So he wrote:

The weeping poplar continues to pick up the remnants of the turnip, and the goose teeth and red bridges draw pictures.

It is also a pot of gold, so it should be called Slender West Lake.

Therefore, there isslender West Lakename.

As we walked, the north gate was getting closer and closer. Amid the misty rain,Daming templetheQilingtaAs if he was right in front of him.

Daming templestoodshugangAbove, it is named after it was built during the Ming Dynasty of Emperor Xiaowu of the Southern Song Dynasty. In the Sui Dynasty, Daming Temple was built under ordersQilingta, to worship Buddha bones, so Daming Temple is also calledQiling Temple。In the Qing Dynasty, in order to avoid the name "Ming Dynasty", the name was changed toFajing Temple。

To get out of the north gate of Slender West Lake, you only need to cross one road. On the opposite side is Daming Temple. Climbing up the stone steps, you come to the square in front of the temple, and you are facing an elegant archway. This archway was built to commemorate the Qiling Tower and Qiling Temple. It hasQiling SiteFour seal characters.

The courtyard wall in front of the temple is embeddedThe first view of HuaidongThe stone tablet is taken from the famous sentence written by Qin Shaoyou in the Song Dynasty.

daxiong HallIt is a Qing Dynasty building. There are precious mirrors embedded high on the roof. In the sun,"the country is peaceful and the people are safe", and in the shade,"the weather is smooth." In fact, whether it is born or joined the WTO, from ancient times to ancient times, there has been nothing more complete in the hearts of the people.

When you come to Daming Temple, you have to go to Pingshan Hall.

According to records, when Ouyang Xiu of the Northern Song Dynasty became the prefect of Yangzhou, he converted a hut in Daming Temple into a separate residence for him to spend the summer. Because it is built on Shugang,"distant mountains come from the same level as this hall", hence the namePingshan Hall。Thinking about it, Ouyang Xiu didn't want the beautiful scenery to be monopolized by the monks.

Pingshantang has since become a cultural symbol, inseparable from Ouyang Xiu, the prefect of the article.

In 1921, Ryunosuke Akutagawa came to China and traveled to Yangzhou. He wrote in his "Travel Notes on China":"... When I stepped into Pingshan Hall, I didn't know why, I felt very happy... I lingered in the hall for a long time. Ouyang Xiu, the owner of Pingshantang, must have enjoyed such a leisurely state of mind like me today. In this sense, although I am an ordinary person, I have reached a tacit understanding with the ancients."

Looking back at the time,"distant mountains came to make peace with this hall"... However, such a clear realm no longer exists, and it is difficult for people today to reach a tacit understanding with the ancients.

There are some in the small garden west of PingshantangMeiquantingandFifth SpringThe stone tablets are also related to Ouyang Xiu. Tang Dynasty commented on the spring water in Daming Temple as"The fifth spring in the world", Ouyang Xiu, a native of the Song Dynasty, built a beautiful spring pavilion next to the spring.

Designed by Mr. Liang Sicheng and built in accordance with the Jintang of Tangzhao Temple in Nara, JapanJianzhentangNext to it, we found several stone monuments. On this stone tablet "Mountains and rivers are in a different place, and the wind and moon are all over the world."few words，Does it look a little familiar?

After leaving Daming Temple, it was already past two o'clock in the afternoon. we went toDongguan Street、Dongguan Guduandancient canal。

Dongguan is located east of Yangzhou City and west of the ancient canal. It is the east gate to Yangzhou from the Grand Canal. Walking along the ancient canal, there are famousPrahaddin Tomb、Milegeand CatholicSacre Coeur。

Look at this stone tablet of the "National Key Cultural Relics Protection Unit", which reads: "Times: Spring and Autumn Period-Qing Dynasty", which is low-key and domineering. Since the Han ditch was built by King Fuchai of Wu during the Spring and Autumn Period, this ancient canal around it has been flowing quietly for more than 2500 years... However, since "one cannot step into the same river twice," is this river still the same river as 2500 years ago?

Amid the continuous drizzle, Dongguan Street is still crowded with people. At this time, he simply hid under an umbrella and followed the footsteps of the people walking by-Dongguan Street, Caiyi Street, Pishi Street, Huyuan, Geyuan... have you passed by? Passing by? Been here? Missed? Why care too much.

Go further, andKangshan StreetandNanhexia Street。

Walking on the moss mottled green stone road, I finally found it in an alleyHunan Guild HallThe brick gate building. This is the most complete and exquisite extant guild gate building in Yangzhou, which is now "mixed" in dilapidated residential buildings. If you are not careful, you will miss it. Behind the gate building, the former No. 1 garden in Yangzhou,"Di Garden", has long since disappeared, and the person who once worked with me to explore the old streets and alleys of Yangzhou is no longer there...

The rain is still falling, and today ends in this poem by Zhang Hu of the Tang Dynasty:

Ten miles long streets are connected to markets, and gods are seen on the Yueming Bridge.

Life is only suitable for Yangzhou's death, and Zen wisdom shines a good tomb field.

Yangzhou has been a place where people want to die since ancient times.

(To be continued)