Xiangxi Phoenix, just looking for the memory in the book
UP ChinaTravel
2024-07-21 01:24:11
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In southwest China, there is a place called Xiangxi,
The mountains here have immortal qi, and the water here has spiritual qi.
And there is a place here called Phoenix,
I met Phoenix in Shen Congwen's book and Huang Yongyu's paintings.
In Song Zuying's song, in Tan Dun's piano music...
The poetry and painting in this most beautiful town has a temperament that is far away from the world.
When I was in elementary school, it has already deeply attracted me...

Fenghuang ancient town

The beauty of western Hunan is the leisurely basket songs flying in the penthouse,
It is the vicissitudes of the ancient city wall that is quiet along the Tuojiang River,
It is the yellowed Shen Cong's anthology wandering in the ancient town...

Fenghuang ancient town
travel tips

Tickets for Fenghuang Ancient City:
The price for adults is 148 yuan. If you purchase tickets for Fenghuang Ancient City, you can visit [Chongde Hall],[Xiong Xiling's Former Residence],[Yang Family Ancestral Hall],[Dongmen Gate Tower],[Tuojiang Boating],[Wanshou Palace],[Shen Congwen's Former Residence],[Museum],[Hongqiao],[Nanhuashan].
1. Elderly people aged 70 and above; children under 1.3 meters tall; active soldiers; families of martyrs; disabled people; journalists (press card issued by the State Information Administration) enjoy free tickets;
2. Retired military cadres under the age of 60; elderly people aged 60-69; active military officers; tour guides without tour groups; recipients of minimum living allowance for urban residents enjoy preferential tickets with their documents;
3. Full-time students purchase tickets for Fenghuang Ancient City Scenic Area at a rate of 20 yuan per person per time. The promissory note does not include Tuojiang rafting attractions. If you need to rafting, please purchase a separate ticket costing 15 yuan/person per time. The price of student tickets in other scenic spots remains the same.
PS: You can enter the ancient city without purchasing tickets, but you can't visit the above small attractions.

of map

Fenghuang Ancient City is located in the southwest of Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, Hunan Province, and is a national 4A-level scenic spot. It is named because the green mountains behind it resemble a phoenix spreading their wings and ready to fly. It is a gathering place of ethnic minorities mainly composed of Miao and Tujia.
The ancient city of Fenghuang was built in the forty-third year of Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty [1704]. After more than 300 years, its ancient appearance still exists. The East Gate and North Gate Ancient City Buildings are still there. In the city, there are blue stone streets and wooden hanging buildings along the river.
Fenghuang Ancient City takes Huilongge Ancient Street as its central axis, connecting countless stone alleys and communicating the whole city. Huilongge Ancient Street is a blue stone road lined vertically and horizontally staggered. It has been a lively market since ancient times. Hongqiao, one of the landmark buildings of Fenghuang Ancient City, was formerly known as Wuhongqiao, and has a long history. The original name of the north gate tower of Fenghuang Ancient City is "Bihui Gate". It is built of red sand strips and stones. It has military defense functions and urban flood control functions. It is a solid barrier for the ancient city. Fenghuang Ancient City is the seat of Fenghuang County. The new city is closely connected to the ancient city. Local residents divide the county into a new city and an old city (namely Fenghuang Ancient City).
Cultural attractions include Shen Congwen's former residence and cemetery, Xiong Xiling's former residence, North Gate Tower, East Gate Tower, the city wall connecting the two towers, Hongqiao, Wanming Tower, Wenchang Pavilion, etc. The ancient city has 68 cultural relics and ancient buildings, 116 ancient sites, more than 120 characteristic houses of the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and more than 30 temples, temples, halls and pavilions of various types. It is the county with the largest number of existing cultural relics and buildings in Southwest China. There are also more than 200 antique stone streets in the city. In December 2001, Fenghuang Ancient City was approved by the State Council as a national historical and cultural city.

about traffic

1. Tongren (Fenghuang) has a small airport. It takes only 40 minutes to drive from Tongren Airport to Fenghuang Ancient City. The road conditions are good and there are basically no traffic jams. The minibus at Daxing Airport will close at 7 p.m.. You can charter buses from the airport to Fenghuang Ancient City. The cost is about 100-120 yuan. You can bargain. Regular taxis are not very small. After negotiating the price with the driver, you can get on the bus. You can also take a taxi with Didi, which is more cost-effective if you can get a taxi.
2. Changsha West Bus Station (Changsha Railway Station is 30 minutes away from Changsha West Bus Station. The fastest taxi is about 30 yuan. You can also take No. 312 for 3 yuan, which is the most affordable. There are four flights a day to Fenghuang North Bus Station. There is still about 5 minutes 'drive to Fenghuang Ancient City. You can take a bus or taxi directly to Hongqiao in the center of the ancient city.
Departure time: 8:40 10:40 15:30 17:30 4 shifts per day Model: 49-seat Jinlong
Reference fare: 140 yuan/person round-trip 280 yuan/person
Regular station buses ensure safe travel, no delays, and leave on time!
3. Changsha Changsha-Zhutan Bus Station runs twice a day. It takes about 5 minutes to Fenghuang Chengbei Bus Station and to Fenghuang Ancient City. Departure time: 9:30 15:30 Ticket price: 140 yuan/person round-trip 290 yuan/person Model: 49-seat Golden Dragon
4. Jishou can be reached by train from all over the country. Jishou City is the nearest prefecture-level city to Fenghuang, an hour's drive from Fenghuang. (6 a.m. to 22 p.m.) At present, there is a direct bus to Phoenix as soon as you leave Jishou Railway Station. It is very convenient, 23 yuan per person. The bus to Phoenix runs every half an hour and leaves when it is full. It is recommended to take a regular bus and never trust taxis at a minimum price to attract passengers, so as not to affect your mood for traveling.
5. It takes 90 minutes by bus to come from Huaihua. You need to take the bus to Huaihua West Bus Station. It is a 10-minute walk from Huaihua Railway Station to Huaihua West Bus Station, and it takes about 3 minutes by taxi. After the expressway was opened on October 23, 2012, the drive was shortened from the previous 3 hours to 90 minutes.
6. From Tongren, there is a direct bus from Tongren to Fenghuang near Tongren Railway Station (7:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.). It takes 1 hour and the fare is 25 yuan/person. The road conditions are better.
Phoenix City bus schedule across the country
Fenghuang-Jishou (23 yuan/person); departure time: 07:00-19:00, every 20 minutes; approximately 1 hour
Fenghuang-Tongren (25 yuan/person); departure time: 07:00-17:00, about every hour; approximately time: 1 hour and 30 minutes
Fenghuang-Huaihua (40 yuan/person); departure time: 08:00-18:00, every hour; time: 80 minutes
Fenghuang-Wulingyuan (80 yuan/person); departure time: 08:30 a.m./14:30 p.m.; approximately 5 hours
Fenghuang-Zhangjiajie (70 yuan/person); departure time: 09:00/10:00/12:00 /14:00/15:00 ; time: 4 and a half hours Fenghuang-Changde (100 yuan/person); departure time: 09:00 am/14:30 pm; time: 3 and a half hours
Fenghuang-Yiyang (110 yuan/person); departure time: 14:30, every day; approximately 3 and a half hours
Fenghuang-Xiangtan (160 yuan/person); departure time: 12:00 every day; time: approximately 5 and a half hours
Fenghuang-Zhuzhou (160 yuan/person); departure time: 09:00/17:30 ; approximately 5 and a half hours
Fenghuang-Yueyang (140 yuan/person); departure time: 10:50 per day; approximately 5 hours
Fenghuang-Changsha Railway Station (140 yuan/person); departure time: 08:30/10:00/14:00 Time: 4 and a half hours
Fenghuang-Changsha West Railway Station (140 yuan/person); departure time: 07:30/09:00/11:00/15:00/16:00/17:00 ; approximately 5 hours
Fenghuang-Wuhan (220 yuan/person); departure time: 15:00 every day; approximately 13 hours
Fenghuang-Kunming (280 yuan/person); departure time: 15:00, every day; approximately 12 hours
Fenghuang-Guiyang River (160 yuan/person); departure time: every other day at 15:00; time: approximately 6 hours
Fenghuang-Chongqing Longtou Temple (160 yuan/person); departure time: 14:00, every day; time: approximately 6 and a half hours
Fenghuang-Huaihua-Guilin (38+133 yuan/person); departure time: 17:30, every day; approximately time: (2+7) hours

Note: Jishou, Tongren, and Huaihua get on the bus and buy tickets and depart on a regular basis. There is no need to order in advance. The above fare and frequency information refer to the usual bus station fare and frequency. During special periods (Spring Festival, Golden Week, etc.), please refer to the bus station information.

About specialties

1. Specialties: ginger candy, blood cake duck, silver...
Ginger candies are cheap. They cost ten yuan for four packs and twenty yuan for a pack. Recommend shops from Zhang's and Jia's. Hard taste. Blood-cake duck is one of the most distinctive local dishes in Fenghuang and Xiangxi. When making, pre-soaked high-quality glutinous rice is put into a bowl. When slaughtering the duck, the duck blood is poured into the glutinous rice and soaked evenly. Wait for the duck blood to solidify, then put it into a pan and steam it, let it cool, cut the blood cake evenly into small squares, and then fry it with vegetable oil. When the duck meat is cooked halfway, put the originally fried blood cake into the duck meat and cook it together, mix it with some spices to make it golden yellow, and serve it out of the pan.
2. Snacks: The first one is fried crabs. This small crab is basically all hard shells. Although it has no meat, it is very fragrant after being fried. The second one is Miao Family Food, which costs 5 yuan a serving, which very represents Phoenix's traditional snacks. The third one is glutinous rice and sour pepper pieces, which is the favorite of the Miao people.

trailer

1. The soft time of the phoenix, and I am here waiting for you

Fenghuang ancient town

2. Phoenix Valley Flower Room. Memory, a B & B where you can see the panoramic view of the ancient city from lying in your room

Phoenix Linjiang Dream Inception Inn

3. Aerial photography of the ancient city and watch the Tuojiang River slowly flowing...

tuojiang

4. The hanging towers on both sides of the strait are a unique scenery

Tuojiang River Boating

5. People from Xiangxi who set at sunrise and rest at sunset.

6. Blue sky and white clouds, the scenery on both sides of the river is reflected in the river

7. The days and nights of Hongqiao carry the stories of many people.

8. Ten thousand lights stretch for miles.

best season

Phoenix attracts tourists from all over the July Half Ghost Festival, the Spring Festival, the Miao Valentine's Day on March 3, the Ancestral Sacrifice Ceremony on April 8, and the Miao Song Festival on June 6. The Student Party suggests staggering holidays such as Qingming Festival, May Day and National Day Golden Week. Not only are there many people, but they are also expensive in all aspects. Mass tourists: All seasons are fine all year round, with spring and autumn being better (personally prefer April to June). There are many people during the summer vacation in July and August, but there are also many activities to play. It is relatively cold in winter, and if you are lucky, you can see snow. Photography enthusiasts: Around March 1, around April 15, around September 10, and around November 20, the scenery varies throughout the year. Folk lovers: Spring Festival, April 8, June 6, Dragon Boat Festival. Interested tourists: Enjoy the spring with green mountains and clear waters in the ancient city of Fenghuang, ice baths in the natural bathing area of Tuojiang River in midsummer, rush to the side fields in Miao Town after the autumn harvest (expression of love among young men and women), and search for the past in the cold stone streets of Phoenix City in midwinter.

itinerary

DAY1: Nanchang-Phoenix, stay in Phoenix Valley Flower Room
DAY2: One-day trip to Fenghuang Ancient City and stay in Phoenix Valley Flower Room
DAY3: Return journey

DAY1: I first arrived in Phoenix and met flowers in the valley

In our student days, most of us had read "Border Town",
The Cui Cui who is as pure as the first dewdrop on the grass of grass in the morning, the handsome and handsome Nuo Sang, the kind and heart-warming boatman grandfather, the scenery, the life, and the bits are all deeply engraved in my mind...
In this strange world, there is still a place where there are no neon lights or heavy traffic. If it weren't for the peak tourist period, it would still be as pure as a paradise outside the world.

This time, he and Master Liao drove from Shanghai to Chengdu, climbing mountains and rivers all the way, just to meet the most beautiful scenery.

After driving for more than ten hours on the road, I finally arrived at the ancient city of Fenghuang at around 9 o'clock in the evening. The ancient city at night was particularly charming under the illumination of the lights. The night was blurred. My heart was drunk. The lights outlined the complex night sky and reflected the gurgling water, making it more charming.

It's too late to enjoy the ancient city tonight. After a tiring journey, I just want to find a comfortable B & B to stay in, so that I can get full of chicken blood and see a more beautiful scenery. After many friends 'introduction, I stayed in a "Valley Flower Room" just a few steps away from the ancient city. "Remembering", when you visit at night, you will inevitably lose your way. You will only find your way after being reminded by the housekeeper on the phone. It feels like you are hidden in the city.

Travel tips: You need to climb a flight of stairs to reach the valley and flowers. It is low-key and has connotation. If you don't search carefully, it will not be easy to discover.

When I stand at the door of this B & B and look at it for three seconds, I won't feel surprised at all.
However, when I walked a few more steps into this space, I would find that my eyes were not enough.
The design is full of space and uses a lot of raw wood materials.
Love the unique texture of wood, enjoy the warm touch when touching,
Let people return to their original nature, calm and natural, on top, on the ground and on the wall,
Everything challenges your imagination of a B & B.

Walking up the stairs is a public area, where you can feel the quiet, elegant, agile and warm atmosphere everywhere.

Here, you can check in and check out and other procedures, or you can quietly drink a cup of tea and read a book. Look, in this space, there is also a fireplace. In the cold winter, you can look at the Tuojiang River in the distance and heat it in the house. It must be a good experience.

After checking in, the housekeeper sent a string of numbers to my mobile phone and told me that this was the password to enter the room. I suddenly realized that the rooms here all use password locks, so I don't have to worry about losing them when I go out. As a random person, you understand, hahaha.

People say that a B & B located in the scenery is happy, so this room that can see the scenery while lying in bed is even more unique.

Walking into the room, my eyes lit up. The huge room, floor-to-ceiling glass windows, and the excellent terrain at a commanding height. No matter day or night, I always feel that the curtains are superfluous. Wherever you can see, there is the scenery, and the entire ancient city of Fenghuang came into view.

In such an environment, I always feel that time is not worth it to sleep. Drinking a cup of tea by the window, taking a bath, and playing a light music suitable for this peaceful night is a place that shows comfort and relaxation everywhere.

The toiletries are all made of the Australian high-end brand-APPELLES, which is enough to show the quality of the B & B owners. They not only make me enjoy watching, sleep comfortably, but also wash more comfortably.

By the way, don't blame me for not reminding you, the owner of every room here is equipped with a large-scale projection. Turning off the lights gives me the illusion of being in a movie theater.

In minutes, I felt that there was no need to go to famous tourist attractions to crowd people.
This kind of B & B where you can experience all kinds of relaxation while lying in your room is the best way to travel.

Good night, sleep well tonight, Phoenix.

DAY2: The ancient city of Phoenix, memories of western Hunan

In the morning, even if there are tens of millions of tons of wake-up qi, it will be melted by the beautiful scenery outside the window, and the ancient city will wake up in this morning glow.

The sun shines into the house, every beam of light has emotions, every wall can speak, and every detail is a story...

Without having time to change clothes, he climbed onto the balcony on the top floor and took out the drone. He couldn't wait to take a look at the early morning scenery.

I have to say that the aerial photography perspective is indeed unique.
There are many unseen scenery displayed in front of me one by one.
The sun shines on the earth, and everything wakes up.

After packing up and going downstairs to look for food, I saw that the handsome guy at the front desk had prepared a nutritious breakfast for us.

Breakfast is healthy and nutritious, simple and light, just like these dull but real years.

Although the environment of the B & B has made us feel satisfied without having to go out, we still can't help but go out for a stroll since we are here, put on a SLR on our backs, and use our camera to record the flavor of Xiangxi.

It only takes two or three minutes to walk from the flower rooms in the valley to the ancient city. Since the trip is before the National Day holiday and the weekend peak period is staggered, the ancient city becomes very quiet. The mountains in the distance are rich and the water in the vicinity are green. Bright, the ancient tiles and white walls on both sides are like sleeping old people, quiet and peaceful. Hello, Phoenix Ancient City, I have come to see you.

The graceful Tuojiang water passes through, and the penthouse on both sides of the river reflects in the Tuojiang River, and the quiet reflection ripples with the waves.

The boat on the Tuojiang River rowed slowly over and slowly rowed back.
The time in the town is as eloquent as the flowing water of the Tuojiang River,
Cleanse away the dusty thoughts and teach people to be clear.

There are many inns in Linjiang, and there are recliners on each balcony, which has also become a beautiful scenery.

There are many snacks in the ancient city: shrimp cakes, stinky tofu, fried crabs, etc., Phoenix delicacies that must not be missed by foodies.

Listening to the girls singing on the bridge, watching the boats on the Tuojiang River, and people walking on the shore, laughing and laughing, it's a good feeling.

I like the scenery here, the fireworks here, and this simple and happy lifestyle.

When the sun shines down quietly on the spot and hits the ship, it is as beautiful as a painting.

Coming to Phoenix will inevitably give people a feeling of hanging towers. Hanging towers are one of the traditional buildings among residents in Xiangxi. They are extremely rare in China and even the world. Most of them are built on the mountains, and half of the houses land and half are in the water. In the water, excavation of earth can be minimized, and at the same time, it can prevent moisture and promote ventilation.

This dreamy ancient city is filled with an ancient and mysterious atmosphere.
Those hanging towers built with wood exude a simple Xiangxi style everywhere.

Tuojiang River Boating

These stilted towers standing in the water are silent, but they have become the hometown of many people in their dreams.
Standing by the water and built against the mountains, it has become a beautiful scenery among the green mountains and clear waters.

Today's weather is very powerful, with blue skies and white clouds. Thank you to God for giving me good weather everywhere I go. Thank you.

I also want to thank my full-time photographer for leaving me beautiful photos wherever I go, so that I can have memories when I get old.

"You look at the scenery from the bridge, but I see you under the bridge as a scenery. You are responsible for laughing and I am responsible for taking pictures."
What could be happier than traveling with a like-minded partner?

Another way to visit Phoenix is to go boating on the river and watch the scenery on both sides of the Taiwan Strait. We didn't buy a big ticket, so the ticket price is 40 yuan/person alone. The cruise time is about half an hour. If you are tired, you can take a boat. Very comfortable.

The angle of viewing the scenery on a boat and the scenery on the shore will be completely different.
Therefore, it is still worth giving it a try when there is time, and it is hard to ignore lazy time.

Shaking leisurely in the boat, chanting,"There is no wind on the water surface and slippery, but I don't feel the boat moving, but the ripples are moving slightly."

The river is green, with rippling green waves, and the breeze caresses. The boatman stands at the stern, dancing with the oars, grasping the direction of the black boat, and moving forward smoothly.
At this time, the Wuzhou became a beautiful moment in the cameras of tourists on both sides of the Taiwan Strait.

With the development of science and technology,
Motors gradually replaced manual labor,
But the feeling of swinging left and right, moving forward leisurely,
Maybe you can only feel it in the hand-cranked black boat.

The boatman would sway us to the shore halfway for a stop and taste the local home-brewed wine. If you are interested, you can buy some. If you are not interested, you can move on. The ducks on the shore are very happily playing in the water.

I like the two photos I like very much. In the vast sea of people, many people just pass by and no longer have a trace. Maybe we will only meet once in our lives, and we don't know if we will meet again tomorrow. Therefore, we must keep ourselves in the best state, making the time we spend together an indelible memory for both parties.

This coordinate sign of Phoenix has also become a symbol in many travel notes. When you see this, you will know that it is Phoenix. So, where is the next stop?

Don't ask me where I come from
My hometown is far away
Why wander?
Wandering far away
For the birds flying in the sky
For the gentle stream in the mountains
For the broad grassland
Wandering far away
……

After dinner, wait for night to fall, the lights will fade, and the lights of thousands of households will turn on,
It made me forget where I was and what night it was.

Phoenix's day and night are completely different worlds.
The lights outline the complicated night,
Reflecting on the gurgling water, it adds a charm.

I really wish time could stop, for the sake of the Phoenix Night.

I especially like this photo. The parked ship seems to have been waiting for me for thousands of years, just for the feeling of taking a look at it.

As one of the landmark buildings of Fenghuang Ancient City, Hongqiao has a history of more than 600 years. It is an important bridge connecting the north bank of the Tuojiang River. On the Hongqiao, you can see all the scenery on both sides of the Tuojiang River, so people here will also gather together. A lot.

Hongqiao is divided into two floors. The first floor is a store and a grocery store. There are many small ornaments with local characteristics inside.
The second floor is a folk culture house. If you are tired from walking, you can go up to the second floor to have a cup of tea and rest.

Thousands of lights stretch for several miles along both sides of the Tuojiang River, setting off the entire ancient city in a beautiful setting. The hanging towers on both sides of the Tuojiang River, the vigorous and simple Wanming towers, the wind and rain towers with flying eaves and angled corners, and the big red lanterns swaying in the wind., constantly telling people about the past and present of the ancient city.

The quietly flowing Tuojiang River water is sparkling and colorful against the backdrop of the lights.
Strolling along the bank of the Tuojiang River is like swimming in a painting, making people forget to leave.

Along the Tuojiang River, the music from the bar from time to time is sometimes high and sometimes low.
Rutting the night sky of the ancient city like a dream,
It also shook off the sadness and fatigue of many people.
Good night tonight, Phoenix.

DAY3: In the early morning, see all the aspects of life

I am leaving Phoenix today, so I decided to get up early and go to the ancient city to watch the early morning time. In front of the scenery of the phoenix, the bed and sleep in always seem less important. There are not many people on the street, so I unconsciously lightened my footsteps and followed suit. I don't want to disturb the dream of the ancient city of Phoenix because of my recklessness.

The ancient city that gets up early has a bit more quiet poetry and a bit more lively atmosphere.
The women washing clothes by the river still maintain their old lifestyle and rhythm...

Working at sunrise and resting at sunset, this gives birth to the most vivid time.
Everything is stained with the traces of time, like an old photo that has turned yellowed.

Whose memories have been lost in the distant back?

Sitting by the river and quietly watching the town wake up little by little, this is the happiest moment of the day.

tuojiang

The children went to school happily with their schoolbags on their backs, and the sun shone through the gap on the stone road.
Smoke rises from houses not far away, and the early morning in the ancient city gradually becomes noisy.

Along the river, alleys, and bridges, hard working people began their day's life,
And I, always a passer-by, walking quietly,
Record these moments with the camera in your hand.

Behind the hundreds of turns of time, in the seemingly soothing and shallow days,
In fact, they are full of sharp edges disguised under the gorgeous coat of time.

Here, no matter what posture you walk in, there is always a soft place deep in your heart that cannot escape the fate of being hit.
One day, when you feel that your heart has been sharpened as a rock and full of scars,
You should go to Phoenix to find those lost fragments.

ended

Some scenery is so beautiful that you can only imagine, just like Shen Congwen wrote in a letter to his wife:
"The banks of the river here are so beautiful and moving. I can draw its outline, but I will never be able to draw the sound, color, and light. You really should come to this river and have a look. You have seen it once, and you may have gained more than I have, just because of a scene you would never have thought of in your dreams..."

Fenghuang ancient town

There is a border town in everyone's heart, where the air is full of tranquility, the white moon illuminates the ancient city, and the penthouse reflects the water; and there is a Cui in everyone's heart. She may be your first love, or she may be a certain class in a certain year. A classmate, and the phoenix is exactly what we are looking for in western Hunan.

Fenghuang ancient city


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